Here is a list of all the postings Jeffrey Cottrell 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 0.4mm spring steel wire|
Same page on Outerzone has a link to an Italian website which has the wing and tail rib shapes. They are in pdf format at reduced size so need a bit of experimenting to print off full size.
Well worth doing.
The inner panel ribs are all pretty much the same size, so I made a ply template to cut round. For the tapered outer panels and the tail, printed off a couple of copies, cut out the shapes and glued them to the balsa.
Probably ended up more accurate than would have been in the original kit.
Hope you decide to build it. The world needs another Gaucho.
Will keep you in touch with progress on mine.
This one's electric, as is all my fleet now.
Did think about 2s, but eventually went with 3s so I could use a motor I built many years ago, but never found a use for.
Hobbyking do (or rather did) do Nanotech single cells in tubular format. Similar size to an AA dry cell, but a little longer. Made up three of those into a 'Toblerone ' style pack and cut a recess in the fuz to take the extra cell, leaving only two on the surface.
Might have to enlarge the side cheeks a little, and make them built up rather than block, but hopefully not enough to spoil the character of the model.
Being electric, I can test fly it without the cheeks, and then decide.
Static test shows 10860 rpm on a 7 x 5 APC-E prop, pulling about 11 a. Since switched to a GWS DD prop at 8 x 4.
Not sure how it will perform in the real world, but on the static test, let's just say I won't need to dust my workshop for a while.
Could do you some pictures if you're interested in the install.
Have to mention my original thread here, and all the help from John T who has one up and running.
Other than that, build it and let the gods decide.
Hi John, thanks for the quick reply
Doesn't need to be exactly 0.4mm. I am making up a spring return rudder system, as in this video.
Must admit I did look on e-bay, but didn't notice those.
Looks like I'm in business.
|Thread: Motor suggestions|
Could we have a link to the model?
|Thread: 0.4mm spring steel wire|
Anyone know where I can get some 0.4mm dia spring steel wire in this country.
E-bay lists loads, but the all come from China, with all its attendant delays.
Really like to have it before the turn of the millenium
|Thread: Mini flight stabilisers|
Similar sort of subject. Recently bought one of these from Bangood. Price was the factor, nothing much to lose if it's nbg.
So, anybody used one, thoughts, opinions?
Notice the price has gone down even further. Should I grab another one before they're all gone?
|Thread: Mystery motor ID please|
The Topmodel site shows both gold and silver backplates, so I think that's just a production change.
Been refining my Motocalc entry, and I've now got 10.3a on a 6 x 3 prop, That's pretty much convinced me I have the 16/15/4.
I think the 6 x 3 is not ideal for a mini hotliner, so I'd be interested in what prop and cell count you run yours on.
Could you let me know
Hi Steve,spot on, thanks
Looked at this from the Topmodel site, and that's the beastie for sure.
Only question now is which one?
All the models share the same dimensions, but I'm guessing either the /3 or /4. Only difference is Kv, /3 is 2800, while the /4 is 2110.
Did find a way to measure Kv from the internet, but that made no sense at all.
So I worked backwards.
Downloaded a trial version of Motocalc., fed in what I know, and got the following results.
Static, the /3 pulls 18a and 18963 rpm
The /4 gives 8.8a and 14836 rpm.
I have pulled the motor to see if it had any labels, so I can't get rpm readings as yet, but going by my cryptic note of 10.1a on 2s, my guess is it's a /4.
Not that familiar with Motocalc, so if someone could check my figures. I'm using a Graupner Cam 6 x 3 folder, which MC doesn't list, and an old Polyquest 1450 2s LiPo which MC also does not list,
Given that, I think predicted 8.8a is closer to the measured 10.1a.
Hi Guys, little mystery for you.
Way back, when Methuselah's dog was a puppy, I started building a Simprop Peppo.
|Thread: New Beginner to Model Helicopters|
Hi Malcolm, now you have me puzzled.
When you say part 30 is not installed, does that mean just not fitted or missing altogether.
Sorry if this compounds the problem
Hi again, Malcolm.
Been doing a bit of research, and it seems the Mini-Pred is also known as the Falcon 3D in other parts of the world.
Found a manual for the Falcon here. Could you have a look ant tell us if your model is the same as the one in the manual?
Colin beat me to it by a short head.
Let us know how you get on
When you say the smaller rotor was sitting out towards one side, do you mean the slider which runs in and out along the tail rotor shaft?
If so, this is perfectly normal, and if you have Heading Hold on your gyro, the slider could be completely to one side.
Certainly not the cause of your vibration.
I would go with the others and suspect a bent main shaft or feathering shaft, but also possible out ob balance main blades.
Do you have a blade balancer? if not, they're not expensive and well worth having in your tool box.
Other than that, to check main shaft, pull the head off completely then spin the model up, looking at the top of the shaft from above. Easy to spot if the shaft is not running true.
Bent feathering shaft is a little more difficult, but there is an easy way. Pull one of the blades off. Inside the blade holder you will find a cap head screw that holds it on. Turn that screw with an allen key while watching the other blade holder.
If, as you turn, the other holder moves in a circular motion, then you have a bent fs.
Try these checks first then post back
|Thread: Poor Service from Banggood- Buyer Beware!|
|Thread: Coyote build wing sheeting question|
Hi Paul, just a quick thought.
You can use cyano or pva to join panels, however I would recommend pva. If you use cyano it leaves a hard ridge on the surface which is almost impossible to sand smooth.
I use an Aliphatic pva such as Titebond. This dries hard, rather than rubbery like ordinary pva, so the joint will practically disappear when you sand it.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Electric power for KeilKraft Gaucho.|
Hi Guys, and thanks for your help.
|Thread: Adventures with a Limbo Dancer|
Edited By Jeffrey Cottrell 2 on 27/05/2020 18:38:44
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