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Member postings for John Wagg

Here is a list of all the postings John Wagg has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
05/07/2020 15:42:21

Avenger slope soarer - RM plan 76. by Bill Grundy. Built a few weeks ago and flown last week. Just 2 channel, ailerons and "T" tail. Had one back in the 70's and a fine little flyer but does like a breeze. Squeeze down elevator in and dive parallel with the side of the hill to gain speed, let go of the stick and it would loop on it's own a couple of times.

It has one weak spot and that is the "T" tail is a bit prone under a cartwheel landing. How do I know this.? Second landing on the hill caught the wing on a passing bit of rush and sent it tip over elbow. Cracked the base of fin and the elevator pivot.


Spot the difference -avenger7.jpeg

Modified with a new standard tail/elevator but kept the original fin. Not sure if I have got the tail incidence right but there is only one way to find out. Hopefully this week will be testing it on Parlick.

Thread: 1965!
04/07/2020 14:03:27
Posted by Chris Dobson 2 on 04/07/2020 00:56:47:

G'day all

Total newb here, sorry to rekindle an older thread, but I have just inherited a Horizons Systems RC kit, with several servos, and would love to get it functional again.

Need to know the function of the sockets on the bottom, and what sort of voltage these outfits run at? Any advice very much appreciated!


Chris, can you remove the back off the case. The black socket on the right looks like a mini mains socket from years back. If so would be used for charging and therefore would expect to find a small transformer inside the case. The other socket could be for a buddy training but again need to see inside the Tx.

If you do intend reviving the Horizon then probably have to replace any rechargeable cells in there and also check for "black wire" from the battery to the circuit.

Voltage wise I would presume it would run of 8 rechargeable Ni-Cad cells = 9.6 volts nominal.

Edited By John Wagg on 04/07/2020 14:06:20

Edited By John Wagg on 04/07/2020 14:18:45

Thread: VOLANTEX asw 28
02/07/2020 11:19:10

Hi Andrea,

I presume you are powering the system from the LIPO battery ?

As suggested above - Unplug all the servos from the receiver. Now using just one servo plug it into each receiver socket in turn to determine which socket matches which transmitter stick. It really doesn't matter which socket is used for the throttle as long it corresponds to the stick you want.

Also, as mentioned above, remove the propeller while experimenting with the radio in case of accidentally starting the motor,

And, again as already mentioned, if this is your first model then unfortunately it is not a beginners model. Please put it to one side and start with some thing more appropriate for learning on. I would also suggest joining a club or getting someone with experience to teach you.

Edited By John Wagg on 02/07/2020 11:20:25

Edited By John Wagg on 02/07/2020 11:23:30

Thread: Sanwa old 35mhz servos
21/06/2020 15:06:58

Mini servos should work fine. You will need a splitter cable ('Y' to take your aileron output to the two servos.

Make sure that the +ve feed is on the middle pin of the receiver, which it looks like it does in the photo.

Some old Sanwa's did not as I found out to my cost and burnt a servo out.

The only other possible problem is if the actual servo plugs don't match the sockets but really should be O.K.

Thread: Reversing plans
17/06/2020 21:53:32

The last one I did I taped it to the window and just pencil traced (no good in the dark though). wink

The previous one was done on a large glass table with a light underneath.

You don't kneed all the details just the outline, rib positions, etc.

Thread: Need a new fuel pump (glow fuel)
14/06/2020 11:10:12

Thank you all for the input.  Ordered the JP Perkins hand pump from Just Engines.

Thank's again and Regards


Edited By John Wagg on 14/06/2020 11:10:42

13/06/2020 19:26:25
Posted by tigerman on 13/06/2020 18:21:54:

I been using the hand fuel pump from Just Engines .It is a good reliable pump .You will have no problems with the Just Engine pump .It is also a quick fill pump to

Hi' There are 3 pumps on JE, is one the same as yours ?

Thanks. John.

13/06/2020 16:04:18

Yes, I think mine is a screen wash pump with a couple of gears inside. I have stripped and cleaned it but it just won't prime. I can prime by sucking fuel through. (tastes lousy if I'm not careful and quite poisonous) and then pumps fine.


13/06/2020 14:37:46

My electric pump is about 30 years old and doesn't prime easily. Would like to replace with a hand pump so any suggestions would be appreciated. I have done a search on the forum which brought up a few posts but nothing came out as that's the one. Nothing special wanted but reliable and low cost ? would suffice.

Cheers. John

Thread: Sc 30 four stroke
12/06/2020 18:53:02

Something I forgot on my latest SC30 is the main needle felt loose so I swapped it with the one out of my SC53 two stroke. The "O" ring probably needs replacing.?

I also checked the idle needle on the 30 and, contrary to what I posted above, it is only about 1/4 turn out from fully closed.

Edited By John Wagg on 12/06/2020 18:53:35

Edited By John Wagg on 12/06/2020 19:12:34

12/06/2020 12:03:13

Acquired another SC30FS from Bill Macleod (above)(thank you) Took me a bit to get it going and quite sensitive to tuning. Idle needle about a 3/4 turn out and 1 turn for the main. Compression low but feels higher than my own original, (that's maybe how they are.) Once tuned throttles well but needs an electric starter to spin it up to get started. Not been able to start it by hand but have had a couple of spits. Used 9x6 prop' initially and then swapped to a 10x6 on the last run. The 10x6 tickover is better due obviously to flywheel effect. Using an OS'F 4 stroke plug and run on both Optimix-5 and Laser-5 fuel.

Thread: Dangerous
10/06/2020 23:17:33

Being an IT illiterate I've no idea how to use OpenTx. My Taranis does tell me I have left the Rx on if I try to turn it off. It also warns me that RSSI is low as well as telemetry lost. I can name and program each individual model and currently have 14 models listed. But that's about it. No numbering of individual receivers and may swap receivers about to the various models as I haven't got 14 receivers. I hope I won't make the same mistake again.

10/06/2020 20:36:23
Posted by Dad_flyer on 10/06/2020 20:02:52:

We had the effect from something like this at the field last week. Pilot with two models. Flew one, then later went back to the flightline with the other. Opened the throttle... fortunately only a little and heard the yell from the pits and cut everything. The other model had started as well.

Lesson learned we hope, the other parts of model safety don't go away when you have 2.5GHz and model binding.

I did a similar thing a couple of days ago. Both planes IC powered. Flew and landed Number 1 plane. Wind got up so decided to fly Number 2. Put No1 to one-side and changed model name on TX to No2 and flew it. Landed number 2 no problem and switched off the receiver. No report of "telemetry" lost but thought I hadn't heard it. Went to switch TX off and got a report "receiver still connected". Switched No2 plane on and off again but still no "telemetry lost" warning. Made sure it was off, moved the sticks and heard the No1 plane behind me operate the servos.

Obviously had inadvertently left this on. The problem with this is would stop my Tx from reporting lack of telemetry if the No2 plane had lost reception in flight.surprise Lesson learnt I hope.

All my receivers are linked to my Frsky TX (Taranis) and even selecting a different model will still operate.

Edited By John Wagg on 10/06/2020 20:39:29

Edited By John Wagg on 10/06/2020 20:42:56

Edited By John Wagg on 10/06/2020 20:43:57

Thread: Sc 30 four stroke
10/06/2020 13:28:32

Sorry can't measure the idle needle as it is boxed in on the model. It means taking it out to access it.

I have two SC 2 strokes, a 61 and a 53. The 61 plenty of power except the low speed throttling not perfect, but never cut out on me. The 2nd hand 53 I can't get the carb' set up at all. The idle needle seems to have more effect than the main. Very strange. Something to work on when I get round tuit.

Edited By John Wagg on 10/06/2020 13:35:14

Thread: Henley Solon
10/06/2020 11:04:23
Posted by Torsten Spitzner on 09/06/2020 14:42:49:
Posted by FlyinBrian on 14/05/2020 20:38:59:

I was an apprentice at GEC Henly and saw the production line of the soldering irons - Built like brick outhouses.

My Dad used to have an iron which was a lump of 3/4" square copper on a steel rod with a wooden handle, he heated it in the living room fire. It was just the job for soldering brake cables to nipples on bikes and motorbikes.

What your Dad had would probably have been a 'solder bullet', commonly used by plumbers in 'roof plumbing'. Ie. Flashings etc. It is heated in a gas flame and then used normally, soldering lead or gms flashings.

Think I still have a "soldering bullet" but never knew it was called that. I did use one once with a piece of stick solder in a "learning" situation. I have a few irons and a small blow torch but for work, such as thick piano wire, I use a Weller soldering gun.

Thread: Sc 30 four stroke
09/06/2020 20:59:53
Posted by Peter Miller on 09/06/2020 20:53:04:

I had several and loved them all.

I still have one

Pity they aren't available anymore.

09/06/2020 20:37:39

Just run mine this evening and ran fine. Flying it in a Quaker Flash vintage. Compression still lower than I expect but has improved a bit. Throttles well and sips fuel at a minuscule rate..

I have recently bought a piston ring and a couple of head gaskets from Just Engines so give them a try.

Thread: Who is building what?
07/06/2020 21:12:45

Waiting for the right weather to maiden. RM plan 76 - Avenger slope soarer - Designed by Bill Grundy 1971. Just 2 channel on ailerons and all flying elevator. Not been an easy build and would design it differently if doing it again. I did have one back in the 70's and flew well, so that's why I have built it again. Finished today with the C.o.G balance to set. Does need some lead in the nose.




That's fluorescent orange under wing and a lot brighter in the flesh.


Perhaps fit a couple of roundels on the wing.av6.jpg

Edited By John Wagg on 07/06/2020 21:14:33

Edited By John Wagg on 07/06/2020 21:37:21

Thread: Servo Advice
07/06/2020 17:26:01

Thanks guys for all the inputs. Yes most of my receivers are D8R's so that's good.

It's the servos I think that would be the problem. Some are quite old (Futaba) and a few miniature which are only rated up to 6v, A Lipo can be over 8v when fully charged and nominally run at 7.4v . So buying any future servos needs thought around max' voltage.

Cheers. John.

07/06/2020 13:57:30
Posted by Barrie Lever on 07/06/2020 13:52:53:


The 5087 is really a HV servo and needs that voltage to give its best performance.

I would say to get over onto HV as soon as you can, it is the best thing to happen to Rx power supplies since the Deac first became available.

Due to ohms law the current consumption drops by quite a lot and this puts less strain on the whole airbourne system.


Barrie, My misunderstanding about the HV servos. I don't think my FRSKY receivers would stand a 2s without some form of dropper.


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