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Member postings for Nick Somerville

Here is a list of all the postings Nick Somerville has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
08/07/2020 20:53:43

Mine is as per plan and also no issues and behaves as Steve said. I recall that on my first Stampe I put a pin into the underside of the rudder and connected it to the tailwheel with a rubber band for increased steering authority.

Thread: Gary's Brian Taylor P-47 build
06/07/2020 09:14:16

Unfortunately the exhaust from a Laser 180 is a bit hot for silicon I am told. I thought I would use flexipipe to a copper or brass y connector and then flexipipe again to the shutters.

05/07/2020 17:39:58

Finished planking the fus today so thought I would celebrate with some garden posing. I lined out inside the shutter area with litho, before the last bits went on, as I plan to divide my exhaust and route it out on both sides.

c4683208-a724-40eb-9dc1-cf8770ae18c6.jpeg

04/07/2020 21:52:45

Look forward to some photos of the Moth when finished. It’s a good looking aircraft.

As mentioned before scale gliders was my main modelling background so panel lines and detailing a warbird is all going to be new. Rivets at the scale of Brian’s design will need to be so small that I really don’t think it’s for me. There are plenty of more visual details like the shutters light fittings, turbo outlet, cockpit/canopy etc that ought to make it look a stand out model in any case.

btw the EL2 Laminating resin is just £10 plus VAT for 500g

04/07/2020 20:31:27

Not wrong about the outer gear doors Garry. I have some suitable brass sheet to try and fabricate Brian’s method for them, but am daunted by the minuscule size of the fixings, tolerances and not least the 3 way hinge.

The EL2 laminating resin (with slow cure hardener) from Easy Composites is a great product. It’s the thinnest viscosity of any other resins I have used so wetting out the cloth is quick and definitely no risk of adding unnecessary weight. The only drawback is it is so light that it does not have the tackiness of others I have used so edges of parts need careful working to ensure there is full contact/adhesion.

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
04/07/2020 17:48:56

I used 169mm HKing alloys struts 60-120class. A little long but at least they were in stock (took a loong time to come). A little long but easy to cut a bit off the tops. I dismantled them and put a short length of hardwood into the oleos to shorten the travel a little but firm up the compression. Probably be better with slightly stiffer springs tbh but can’t be bothered to search for an alternative. Kudos to Cymas for his work in finding the best springs.

I chopped out the axles with part of the legs supplied in the kit and used those as the angle was already set. The bottom of the oleos was drilled larger and at an angle to accommodate them. Unfortunately the axle stubs were then too short and although I cobbled a solution which worked for a while I have since made up new parts that are much better.

Edited By Nick Somerville on 04/07/2020 17:50:07

Thread: Gary's Brian Taylor P-47 build
03/07/2020 19:35:37

Thanks Gary, I don’t have any g10, only a small quantity of the thicker Glass board that I have been fretting hinges and horns from. I do have some litho which for the inner door that combined with the balsa makes for a very light solution. As the leg doors are significantly more complex if following Brian’s technique I will have to ponder that when I get there.

Re the gear servos I will probably make an opening on the too skin and not bother with hatches. R1-2 is all hidden in the fus anyway and the dihedral brace will take most of the stresses along with the fuselage sides with the wings bolted in place. Thanks for your thoughts though and cover and forget has been a route that has also not been an issue for myself in the past. I just thought those little servos and the inner doors hanging in the grass could ....

Bought a new for me variety of laminating resin from Easy Composites (24hr delivery from order and very reasonable) and will be covering all the tail surfaces, flaps and ailerons this weekend so will report on how I get on.

01/07/2020 11:33:03

Back in my workshop following the previous post I am wondering if I have made a classic error! Over focussed on working from the underside of the wings I have installed the gear door servos to be removed if necessary from the underside. However, the belly pan is intended to be fixed, though I know Trevor H made his separate, thus making this unworkable. In retrospect I think I should leave as is for now and then cut the hatch in the top surface after underside skins are in place and wings joined. I can always replace the servo plate screws with longer fixings from the other side.

Any thoughts welcome Gary.

01/07/2020 10:51:24

23884655-e73a-4182-8110-7770848a6a73.jpegMade up the inner gear doors from litho and balsa, then fabricated the hinges using glass fibre sheet and 2m fixings. After gluing them in I drilled and used cocktail sticks from the outer edges to add strength. However, when looking at the linkage arm fixing I had to drill out the stick I had glued in place and replace it with the 2m bolt, so could have omitted the sticks on linkage sides as the bolt does the same job.

The two small Hitec servos have been installed between R1 and R2 and once the wings are joined I am thinking of cutting one hatch to allow access to both these servos as well as the retracts 1600ma battery and the Electron sequencer.3a33da91-3891-4abd-8899-7ee2a0308976.jpeg

27/06/2020 17:15:42

b4793ea4-d91d-47de-bb3c-ee999a617597.jpegI put the 90degree one in as that was as per the plan. I have used a servo checker to measure and I am getting equal up and down travel from the output of the bell crank so any differential if required will be set on the transmitter. The recommended throws are just under 10mm up and down so not much.

Took dogs for a walk to clear my head and returned to make a paper mock up as I should have done originally, to better understand the geometry. I can see now that once the hinges are all glued in I will be able to fill any slots made as per the picture of DavidQ’s build.1fb4f9eb-420d-4f23-9641-e133892cc4e3.jpeg

27/06/2020 14:57:48

This is the view of the underside cut out on the central hinge.84f12635-c8c4-4830-9859-f4ed16619bd4.jpeg

27/06/2020 14:47:52

07d5f552-648b-4336-b93b-230f84df1c70.jpegHi Garry, I have been working on the aileron hingeing and have been looking at DaviQ’s build on RSMB and in particular this photo. I have made up all the hinges and have made a start at cutting the first aileron to take the hinges but can’t see how David accomplishes any movement with just a small cut out. Seems to me a full slot is needed, deeper under the aileron but also through a good deal of the leading edge upper surface.

24/06/2020 13:51:09

Things are filling up in the wings. I have sorted the flap and aileron servo positions on both wings but really need to get those fiddly aileron hinges made up so I can test all the linkages before committing to finalising the servo hatches. Also the inner gear doors will need fabricating and hinging before I decide on a location for the micro servos that will operate them. It’s been an expensive week what with those huge wheels, seven servos (I already had two for the rudder and elevator) but now counting realise I still haven’t bought a servo for the tail retract. So that’s ten in all for the model! Doubling up the webbing on the main spar has meant I have no clearance for the wheel so may have to relieve a bit of the webbing.

Btw Garry, I was pleased to hear you have found a friendly club. Like you I am more of a builder than a flier, but am working at gaining confidence. I have a large Extra 330 with the Laser 180, destined for my P47, that I am trying to fly regularly and though I only play at mild aerobatics it is ideal for making repeat landings and takeoffs. Hopefully by the time I finish the P47 I won't have any worries about flying it.
36839d66-ca9e-4753-8807-fb46c8e2e758.jpeg

15/06/2020 16:09:33

Thanks Garry, confirms my thoughts and further study of the rib sections made me realise it was the block leading edge of the aileron that is curved. There is a lot of work in the inner shroud make up but rewarding nonetheless I am hoping. I have the flap on its jig and am shaping the LE currently. Look forward to seeing some pics of yours in due course.

15/06/2020 11:06:06

Hi Garry, looking forward to your next update. I skinned my first wing top surface yesterday and am looking at the shroud areas. Can you explain what the curved section is that I have highlighted on this picture. I have made up a 20mm strip with a feathered edge to fit under the skin but do not see why it needs to be curved away towards the tip from the lower rear spar. Hoping you have done this bit already and have the answer.dc721eec-d724-44d0-8c04-212e4b1ee444.jpeg

Edited By Nick Somerville on 15/06/2020 11:07:27

10/06/2020 17:20:41

That’s great Garry, all clear re the jigs now. It is so helpful having someone with previous experience to follow as this is all so different from the large scale vintage gliders I used to build from plans.

I have cut some of the spars from some Western Red Cedar I had as my 1/4 sq balsa feels a bit fragile. I will double up on some of the webbing too. I can see that you have done the same with the webbing. My retract took some fettling to squeeze it into the correct place. I ended up with about 1mm clearance top and bottom of the retract rear body corners and the outer facing axle stub also is tight. I will probably add 1/16 capping strip to the bottom of the wing ribs to give myself more wriggle room when making the door fit flush.3c29b3e3-8bd7-4377-857c-b27f893bf79d.jpeg

Edited By Nick Somerville on 10/06/2020 17:22:10

10/06/2020 09:17:23

Trevor, I had seen a YouTube video with someone explaining h0w to set up a sequencer for P51 and P47 Inner door operation. However you are quite correct re the doors staying open as having looked at lots more videos of modellers gear set ups none do the double operation.

Gary, you mentioned the plan detail for the flap and aileron jigs. Can’t seem to see this or any notes on my plans?

10/06/2020 08:12:31

That’s useful to see the pictures of the flap and aileron jigs Garry. I have been otherwise busy but made a tentative start on the right wing as my fuselage is as far complete as possible for now.

I have been making the necessary modifications to fit the Electron retracts and Robart offset struts (The drop links are quite large and snag the forward bearer and opening of rib). Once I am happy with all that I will start the wing in ernest.

I have been pondering a bit about the operation of the inner gear doors. In theory I believe these should open prior to gear down and then close again. I have yet to discover if this can be managed by the Electron controller/sequencer. Also as the retracts and sequencer will be on their own 2s Lipo I will need HV servo or servos to operate the inner doors. Anyone reading who has experience of this set up please do make your suggestions.

look forward to seeing your approach too Gary.

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
06/06/2020 16:57:41

3 servos come to about 6oz and with the placing 4 times behind c of g compared to distance in front for ballast means at least a pound of lead to balance the servo weight alone, not withstanding any additional tail weight that may need compensating from the build process.

saito 180 is a few hundred grams lighter than a Laser 180 that I have in mine (which balanced slight nose heavy with no ballast) so that also would contribute to the weight needed up front.

Thread: Gary's Brian Taylor P-47 build
06/06/2020 15:58:11

Yes I have seen the work that goes into Fowler flaps. Even Brian’s plan shows the use of Robart hinges. With the geometry shown though for the pivot point the movement will be a close compromise to fully modelled Fowlers.

i agree re simulating the tabs. I finished off the hinge shrouds for rudder and elevator yesterday and glassed one side of the fin and tailplane. Will also do glassing of rudder and elevators before doing the tabs. I don't have a 3d printer so guess my shrouds will be made odds and ends from scrap drawer. On David Q’s build on RCSB, he cut the sides of the tabs and simulated the hinge line. Looked very neat.

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