Here is a list of all the postings Graham Davies 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Dark Nights Fix-up 2020|
Brilliant idea Matty.
Since returning to the hobby after 20-odd years last Christmas, I've already fixed up 2 attic queens, but there are more to do!
|Thread: Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang|
Don't worry Jonathan, Richard's kits go together very well and there is nothing that you won't be able to figure out when you have the project in front of you. I got very inspired by reading the threads from start to finish. Some of these can be off-putting, but not the Warbirds threads as everyone's attitudes is so relaxed; 'it'll be fine, don't worry'!
I have not built a 'full fat' warbird, but built a 55" Tempest. from start to maiden took me 4 weeks, and I don't feel that I hurried. Whilst many others' models look far better than mine, I still smile when I look at my Tempest. She looks great and flies really well.
|Thread: What's flying over your house|
We are close enough to Duxford to get Spitfires and other assorted exotica from time to time. There is also a Rapide that flies out of Marshalls in Cambridge. That's a nice thing to see in the air.
That's a shame Peter. We also get your old friend in his Pitts from time to time.
We regularly get an aerobatic display from a Harvard. It fair shakes the ground. Which is nice...
|Thread: Photo rotation problem persists|
I think of it in terms of the famous five: "Just run over there and pull that lowest branch three times"!
It's an initiation rite, something to do with Masons...
Of course, Phil's technical explanation could be right...
I thought it was just me!
If I open the image for editing, rotate it by a full 360 degrees and then save it, when I upload it to my album on this site, it is fine. If I don't it comes out 90 degrees rotated! I can find no difference in images on my pc that are at 0 or 360 degrees (my maths teacher swore they were the same; I can finally prove him wrong!)...
Most odd, but that's my workaround
|Thread: Ballerina by EarlyBird|
Peter, I just saw it as 'low level aerobatics'. And to do so within 4ft of take off just showed great pilot skill!
|Thread: Failure to launch..|
I feel your pain. My 55" Tempest is OK, but I have a smaller model that is a pig. It has reserves of power so stalling is not a problem, but nose-overs happen very often.
a method that worked for me is to set a 'take off' rate on elevator with quite high rates but loads of negative expo. It made it easier to transition from full up needed at the start of the run to just a squeeze as it got rolling. as soon as you are off the ground, click to normal rates.
|Thread: Mystery Fournier RF-5|
I don't think it's the Mick Reeves model. The website shows a 1/4 scale and 1/3 scale, both of which are considerable bigger.
It's worth visiting the website as there is a youtube video showing Mick's championship winning model. The cockpit detail is breathtaking!
|Thread: SC91 FS Problems|
Thanks again for your input.
Richard, well spotted! I did take the barrel out and don't recall a spring. The barrel does return when it is pushed, but I don't know if it's spring pressure or the pushrod, or some such.
Jon, thank you! Yes please. PM sent
Paul, sorry I actually took it out of the airframe yesterday and mounted it on a bench. I thought about tank/ fuel feed so wanted to rule that out. Beside, crouching over a model for hours is uncomfortable, and I wanted to show it who was boss!
Thanks for everyone's input. It's much appreciated.
Timing checked: OK
Tappets checked: OK
Rear cover removed: Bearing seemed fine, no rust and moves smoothly. Slightly concerning amount of big end play though.
Carb cleaned, and a small piece of fuel tubing added to remove any wobbling.
Result were exactly the same...
I can lean out the top end, but with the needle screwed in a long way, maybe 3/4 turn out.
All but impossible to set a low ruining mixture. Turning the needle either way tends to result in the engine stopping, and restarting is an absolute pig. I usually have to open the main needle, and then by the time i have any sort of running, it stops...
I appreciate that the slow running maybe miles out, but I am yet to find any setting that allows me to even start adjusting it.
One thing I did notice that when adjusting the slow running, touching the screwdriver to the barrel changed the running significantly. Pushing the barrel with my finger had the same effect. Something not right there somewhere.
I've reached the limit of my skill, so it's been removed from the airframe and is now thinking about what it's done. I'm not mad, I'm disappointed...
Thanks Martin, that's great.
I think I will do some basic stripping and cleaning and check the tappets etc before I start again. Then I'll go through this carefully and methodically.
I'll keep you all posted
Martin, Jon, you may be right, and that's an easier check as I can leave it in the airframe and I may salvage my flying sunday!
I'm sure it's been discussed before, but do you have any advice where to start?
Jon, don't worry about being critical! Any input is appreciated.
I appreciate that I haven't had it running long enough to get properly procedural with the slow running. However, I can richen it on one direction, and lean it until it stops in the other. Too rich and it picks up very slowly and splutters.
However, I'd really like to follow a methodical process to set the whole thing up.
It's running a 14x6, and I don't have an RPM meter I'm afraid.
Martin, I thought of that so ran it with the vent open. Didn't make any difference!
Paul, thanks for the picture; that's really helpful.
So, tomorrow it comes out of the airframe and a bit of strip/ check...
If the timing was out, would it run OK at high RPM?
I'm thinking leaking o-rings is a likely culprit...
I haven't Brian, but it does sound like something like that.
Would that cause it to stop when the glow clip is removed?
Can I tap your collective brilliance?
I have an SC91 FS that I recently bought secondhand. It appears in excellent condition and arrive liberally dosed in after run oil.
I didn't bench run it as I never usually do, so this went straight into my refurbished Wot's Wot. For the last two days, I've been trying to get it to run. So, here's the history...
Yesterday tried but could not get more than a few splutters. It would only run for a few seconds, often backwards. Eventually I flattened the glow starter.
Today I swapped the plug to the OS four stroke plug that is in my ASP65FS, which runs perfectly. Fuel is Model Technics 5% nitro 4-stroke mix.Again, this fuel and plug is fine in the ASP.
On changing the plug, I could get it to start. However, it will not keep running. It runs very rough at lower rpm and shake the whole model. It smooths out and speed, and I can get it to respond to the needle and rev nicely. However, it will stop after 20 seconds or so.
I've been able to adjust the low speed screw and it seems roughly right, but not consistent. In other words, it seems to lean out on it's own.
Most odd, if I take the glow clip off, it stops straight away.
It is a used motor, and I did not strip it before fitting to the model.
Any suggestions which stones to lift first?
|Thread: Introduction and Engines query|
My old OS40FP was the first R/C motor I bought. It has powered all manner of models including a Telemaster 66, An Inwoods Improver, A Flair Baronette and various excellence/ Gangster hybrids. I love it. It is powerful enough, light enough to use as a hot option instead of ball-raced 25s, and throttle superbly. I still have it, and this thread has started me thinking about what I can build for the venerable old girl!
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