Here is a list of all the postings FlyinBrian has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: LIPO for Radian 2M Glider|
Never had a Radian but HobbyKing LiPOs are fine, I like the Zippy batteries they seem a good balance of price V performance / longevity, the Compact versions are just that, slightly smaller but slightly more costly
The HV ones are good but your charger may not have a setting for them.
30C should be ample but check the current draw with a Wattmeter.
|Thread: Help! Can't charge my Lipo|
First - Yes LiPo batteries come with a risk, we either accept it or don't use em. Mistreat them and they will hurt you, your pocket or others
Regarding callibration / ageing etc. I assume the same charger electronics / firmware are used to measure each cell voltage therefore any ageing error will affect all cells equally - ie read say 4.18 instead of 4.2v when full charged.
If this occurs across two or more batteries then you know the charger has a problem.
A few mV between LiPO cells is acceptable but say .1v or more is not and this will show up as the charger being unable to balance the cells or bring them to full voltage.
Of the chargers I have had over the last 15 years (5) any failures have been with the power input/output rather than monitoring and balancing. These are the heavy current users so get stressed more than the measuring / monitoring circuits.
Also just because a battery says you can charge it at 2 x C or even 5 x C does not mean you have to!. It is good practice to limit charging to 1C or even less, I charge 2200 mAH packs at 1.8 to 2 Amps. If the pack has been flown till there is about 40% Capacity left charging is still quick at those currents.
Regarding domestic power, yes the voltage does fluctuate but within the limits set by the IEEE and other standards Nominally this is 230V to bring us inline with Europe (We were staunchly 240V) however at the substation it is 240V and that is what you will measure at most socket outlets. Cables from the sub stn, the wiring in the premises and the leads to the appliances will add enough resistance to drop the voltage to c230V once a decent load is applied. If the load on a given cable causes the output from the sub stn to drop enough to risk going outside the allowed tolerance then automated switches alter the tapings on the SS transformer and boost the voltage slightly. You may have noticed the lights dimming slightly when switching on a kettle? followed a few seconds later by them returning to normal.
|Thread: Forum weekend prize draw - winners!|
My flight box dates from 1976 - I really need a new one!
|Thread: Spektrum Receiver Plugs and Sockets|
The great thing is even if you plug a servo lead in the wrong way round the magic smoke stays put.
|Thread: Carbon Fibre Tubes|
Alloy tubes of various sizes are available from most B&Q stores, not too dear.
|Thread: Does anyone remember...|
I remember Roy well, a great guy and a good shop RIP
|Thread: Repair help please!|
Stay three mistakes high!!!!
|Thread: Prostate Cancer|
I am already on hormone treatment, since May last year but no further tests were done till November and my PSA was still 10. Since then I have had a phone apt with a consultant who referred me to Oncology, that was mid may and the Oncology consultant rang me last Tuesday and set up another scan which has now been done. Awaiting further news.
Hope your treatment is going well.
Edited By FlyinBrian on 26/06/2020 16:01:51
I am a late comer here but was diagnosed April 2019 after a long wait to see a consultant. I am actually very disappointed with my local NHS as I had had urinary problems for a while before anyone suggested I have my prostrate checked. I am 72 and started having trouble in mid 2018 which was treated with antibiotics but did not fully go away.
Anyway bottom line is I have just had another scan as it seems it may have spread to my bones and Lymph nodes, possibly to my bowels too. - SCARY
I am waiting for the results and an appointment with an oncologist - hopefully soon.
|Thread: Hanger Rash|
Definately need to use any film coverings with the minimum heat you can get away with, profilm / orocover are better than Solarfilm for staying tight. I only use high heat (125c) to persuade film around compound curves. Cover open structures by tacking and gradually puling the film taut all round before finally using a heat gun to get the open area of the film just taut.
Edited By FlyinBrian on 24/06/2020 16:05:51
The instructions suggest 40cc up and considering the design is 30 plus years old I doubt the engines used then had the power of modern engines. Mine's a MVVS 40cc on a tuned pipe so should be OK, if not I have an Evolution (MVVS) 62 BNIB which I originally thought of using but decided to try the 40cc first. Though I doubt with the 62 I would need weight up front.
AHHHH Skybolt, NICE
I have a kit for one of them, must dig it out, It will make a change from the AM
Presently installing the engine etc in my Giant AM, looks like even with a 40cc lump up front it will still need nose weight.
|Thread: Advice - A steady hack|
I have a plan built WOT4 which flies on 6 x 2200 or 3000 (2x 3S) batteries, it certainly penetrates well. I am not sure what the motor is as I have had it for donkeys years (bought from Giant Cod!) but it is about 800 KV and pulls 34 amps on 6 x 3000 cells so is probably equivalent to a .40 - but uses a 12 x 7 prop.
I made the hatch at the top, I show a pic if I knew how to get them from my PC to my album DOH
|Thread: The great i.c. / electric finger chopping debate|
OK Steve you go your way etc.
"As far as I am aware, all 2.4MHz have some system for binding the receiver to the transmitter. ModelMatch binds the receiver to a particular model in the transmitter."
Steve J - Absolutely true but if you turn on your rx first by installing a battery in a model equipped with an ESC and BEC the receiver is live as is the ESC and the Tx is not transmitting so it is possible for spurios signals to reach the rx. OK most ESC (assuming it was correctly set up on install) will not do anything in the absence of a radio signal but I would not use your suggested method as a matter of course.
Not many systems have this capability, AFAIK only Spektrum and FrSky offer this "modelmatch" feature.
If your Tx and rx are on and bound the receiver is looking at your tx signal and is "locked on to your Tx" if your rx is on and your tx is not there is a higher risk of some spurious signal being picked up by the rx.
However if the rx has already bound to the Tx, if you turn off your tx the rx should enter failsafe.
Best practise is to ensure your failsafe is set to motor off and to have an "arming" switch on the Tx and use it to prevent throttle opening until you are ready to fly.
|Thread: MVVS 40 Petrol - IGN Question|
Thank you for all your suggestions and help, I have got some Red LEDs from RS and will try the various suggestions given above. I also got a very quick response by MVVS to an email asking about the LED. It is available from them for 5 Euros plus PnP. I have ordered one anyway just in case.
FF - thanks, makes sense.
John - Hi how are you doing, I have sent an email to the makers of the ignition unit (MSR engines) but will also contact MVVS.
Bert, thanks, will investigate.
Anyone for checkers?
Looks good Martin.
I think Nigel is building a model based on an Aeromaster rather than the actual thing.
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