Here is a list of all the postings Grahamd has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Blackhorse Stuka|
Having just read a review in another magazine, I wonder if we both have the same model ?
Whilst fitting and removing the supplied keeps, one cracked and fell apart in my fingers! I'd already had another fall apart, as well as one self strip its thread, so I was luckilly removing them to install some nice Kavan ones.
And what did the reviewer say ?
"Examination of the supplied hardware revealed nothing untoward, in fact the standard of the fittings was very good"
Well I'm sorry they feel that way, about using (and yes they DID) these crappy brittle parts in a 12LB 20cc powered model !!!!
And what did they say about the problems I saw with the undercarridge ?
"Fitting the oleo sprung undercarridge gave a few niggling problems"
My latest "NIGGLE" the damn fin installation, look at the picture, a great gap, and worse still nothing lines up (look at the panel lines and paint)
Now sureley the review must have mentioned this ?
"the assembly of the tail end is straightforward, and the alignement of the tailplane on the fuselage is both postive and accurate"
Hmm if thats what passes for their "Positive and Accurate", god help me.
|Thread: how to get the plan onto the wood!|
Simplest way ?
nip into a haberdaheries (or hobbycraft) and get a dress makers pin wheel (used for marking out patterns onto material. Put wood under plan and trace using wheel (makes small pin holes in plan and wood, but is 100% easy and accurate).
|Thread: Blackhorse Stuka|
Having insalled the tailplane (nothing exciting there), the next step is to fit the tailplane struts (nice scale touch often omitted in some ARFs). These are easy to install in the already cut holes, however you need to sand down the tonges where they enter the fuz as they are TOO big. Once in due to the tonges being on mylar (hinged) they are easy to install, BUT;- (the pictures speak volumes)
Yes there is a huge great gap where they enter the fuz and where they are fixed to the tailplane, someone didn't take the angles into account when planning/cutting these!
Also the manual states use cyno to glue them to the surfaces of the tailplane and fuz!!!! I've used some tape and used canopy adhesive as it dries clear and will fill the void (lucky they are not funtioning).
also installed the supplied tailwheel
Now this really does naff me off
And to check the cowl fits
Coward... Nothing like a challenge, and in stages this has been.
My delrin rods arrived from fantastic plastic (an ebay company) I buy the assorted pack 8 asst rods for £6, good value, and even something as big as the Stuka only used one 10mm rod.
From firewall to prop pusher is 150mm, so as motor is 78, I cut the rods to 75 (allows me to sand them down). After cutting and sanding to make sure they are all the same, I used my pillar drill to push a 4mm drill from one end to the other (had to go from both ends, but its no issue if they aren't 100%, the Delrin is just a spacer). By using both threaded rod and Delrin the assembly is locked solid.
Having drilled the firewall already and epoxied the 4mm captive nuts in place, I cut my 4mm threaded rod to length and add an extra loc-nut to the end of the threaded rod, behind the firewall (belt and braces). Then slip on the Delrin rods, slide on the motor, some washers, nuts and another loc-nut (not yet fitted), and voila.
A quick check of the supplied spinner and another check for 150mm
Thanks, I think all those servo connectors are just accidents waiting to happen.
Well the best thing I did was change the wheels for 1/4 small diameter ones (Dubro low-bounce), everything now fits, mind you I've had enough dry runs....
The spats and skirts do add something to the model
And my chosen motor
Mounting the motor will (if the bits arrive) be this weekends job.
for info, its a 6364 230KV 55A, with a Hobbywing Platinum 100Amp esc
Yours if you want them, just pm me your address
|After much frustration, I think I've found another problem with the undercart.....|
Having done one assembly on one wing, I found the wheel was stiff, and couldn't understand why. So tonight I started on the second wing and undercart assembly, this one was worse than the other and had me bending bits all over the place, otherwise the supplied axle would not fit between the two arms.... This time I installed the wheel (minus the spats), and bingo, major headache!!!! the wheel is 3.5" diameter, the distance from axle to the top of the olio wheel holder is 1 5/8" so how do they expect a 3.5" wheel to fit!!!! When they make the olios they screw the wheel arch/holder to the olio with a bolt, and that bolt was not taken into account when someone designed the size of wheel required, no bolt and loads of room, but you need the bolt (factory fitted)....
So tonight I've had to order a pair of Dubro 3.25" wheels.
No brakes (not even YT include them), just split flaps ala full size
|Well without doubt installing the undercart (mains) has got to be amongst the top list of "jobs I hated" on this model >|
My advice to anyone following, is assemble them using clamps and check/bend/adjust everything till it fits dead on, coz wants you install it in the wing, and then add the spat, jeeze does it all go down hill fast if you don't.
Just as well the spats are GF, had they been abs they would have split many times over. The two swinging arms have to be spot on, otherwise you cannot slide in the axle, also the wheels need to be drilled out to fit, and being nylon hubs, thats fun in its self. At the same time you have to push down on the olios whilst holding the side clamps in place, whilst pushing the axle into the holes, whilst holding the spat down and out of the way, and whilst slipping on the wheel collets :banghead: Just to get to this stage you need to try and slip the spat over the olio and side arms, and that will only go one way.....
total time to install ONE wheel and spat ? 4 hours (I even had to walk out of the workshop (spare bedroom) for a while to cool down!!!)
ARGH got another one left to do.....
|Thread: RCM&E 2010 Hobby Awards|
1. Mainly Models
4. Horizon Hobbies
|Thread: Blackhorse Stuka|
|I've installed the flap servos (two in each wing - JR591s)|
Now unlike a lot of people, I'm sorry but I aint into extension leads, even using them lead fastners, I've always cut, soldered and extended my servo leads, and NEVER had one fail.
I cut and add the length I need, then solder them, and sleeve them indivdually
Incidently no plastic horns in this kit
I've now installed the 4 flap servos in the wing
|Thought I'd share some of the components in this kit (ARF)|
No plastic horns, only ally
A nice scale spinner complete with ally backplate
|Stephen, the wings are two piece (ally tube) with both metal and plastic screws. The stuka has fixed undercart so no problemwith retracts|
Spent a few minutes checking the box contents, not bad, the olios are real nice, but the canopy is going to have to come off, it looks a bit cartooney.
Got mine just shy £200
Blackhorse (ripmax) suggested the new Stuka model (1.20) would be released early July, then kept delaying, and suddenly a few kits got released, and I was lucky enough to nab one at the nats from Inwoods.
I've been looking for a largish warbird that I can electrify and this one fits the bill, as the YT one is a bit heavy, and the GP one looks like a cartoon mockup.
Wingspan: 1920mm (75.6in)
Length: 1560mm (61.4in)
Weight: 5.5kg (12.13lbs)
Servos: 9 Servos (5 x 5kg, 2 x 8kg, 2 x std)
IC Engine: .91 - 1.20 size 4-stroke, .91 size 2-stroke
Electric Motor: KMS Quantum 4130/07 or 5321/14
Speed Controller Arrowind 80A SW or Opto required
LiPo: 6S to 8S 5500mAh+ Li-Po recommended
Heres a few pics from BH
|Thread: Blue foam - What is it called?|
|Someone is selling small sheets on Flea Bay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2x12x24-STYROFOAM-PINK-FOAM-SUBSTITUTE-BLUE-300x600mm-/320575348082?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN|
|Thread: Building the Nijhuis Lysander|
I put my tailwheel in like thus;
I cut a piece of bass strip (8x8 mm) to fit between the two last formers, around this I put some scrap ply to form a "U" shape that it sits in (extra strength) on the inside faces of the two formers, then I used 3mm sheeting from the tailplane to the middle of the bass strip (leaving a hole for the tail wheel post). To make this easy I used some 1.6mm balsa sheet, and kept cutting and shaping it till it was a good snug fit, then used it as a template to cut two the same from 3mm sheet. Then used thick CA to form the two sheets onto the formers and joined in the middle of the bass strip.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!