Member postings for Braddock, VC

If you sell through e-bay there is a perpetual trace on the transaction, as you are obviously concerned about tax.

My advice is avoid general forums such as this.

Google SAM 35 , it's the UK chapter of the society of antique modellers and they offer a classified section that varies from free to members to v. cheap if not. Ensure that you insert "COLLECTION ONLY" and cash only then there won't be a paper trail and you won't have to worry if the kit is not complete.

One further bit of advice, if the box is sealed don't open it even for a tax inspector.

The guys that buy these little treasures get their kicks from all the activity associated with the acquisition so you'll have absolutely no problem with collection only; I know I'm one of them. I recently drove from Dover to South shields to pick up an item oh and don't let some doddery old geezer try to get you to reduce the price because he had to drive so far, you're selling he's buying he didn't have to come, just allow him the use of toilet facilities as he will no doubt need to go.

You've not lost your mojo, you've lost the part of your life that can never return. Somewhere down the line you'll get back into modelling but don't dwell on it. When you're ready it'll pop up out of nowhere.

If you listened to the Primate of the CofE he recommends volunteering for an organisation, I guess you're ex FAA; there must be an association for it and I'd either join it or, if already a member, devote more time to it. It won't replace your loved one but it will surely take your mind off of things and the companionship will re-motivate you.

Kid K'nex 85619 at Amazon; don't underestimate the power of 2 year old imagination. It won't fly but there again it won't crash either.

Kelly's Heroes, Das Boot and a toss up between the original All Quiet on the Western Front and Mary Ure in Where Eagles Dare....

The next time out wasn't so successful, came down in the long grass and swiped the u/c off, replaced the alloy plate one with a pair of torsion bar 6SWG bent wire ones, long grass broke the wheel this time so I did an on field repair, there was a nose leg in the club shed so I fettled the wheel off that to fit, looked a bit odd, a 2.5" wheel one side with a 3.75" wheel on tother, didn't fly it again though wind was up to gale force but I taxi-ed it and did a spruce goose hop, didn't really mean to it's just the wind was that strong it just took off , pulled the throttle back and she sank down onto the turf.

I've got to mention the os 61 fx, what an engine it's so reliable, prime it and one back flip and it's running. I can't believe I've let it languish for the best part of 10 years whilst I fiddled with Irvines and petrol engines.

With the duest of respect I think the problem is/was you're stuck in the last century; change over to 2 cell LiFe batteries and a balance charger all faults will show when you charge.

I think I dumped all my nimh and nicads over 10 years ago and never looked back.

Rx and ignition batteries are all LiFe 2 cells direct into the rx, never any problems with them except with old JR servos which let the smoke out immediately when over 5 volts is applied.

All bar 1 of my Tx have LiFe also. The odd one, a futaba 6 ex 2.4, has a 3 cell lipo in it as it's built to handle 8 dry cells.

I've never had any battery problems since my change over, SHMG.

Good LiFe batteries are both lighter and cheaper than the best of canned cells (like for like), which,for a 5 cell Ni** battery, have 4 welded terminals and two soldered ones that may fail plus they can leak and that causes all sorts of problems.

You don't use castor as well do you?

CF tubes arrived today, so out into the fresh air and cut out the old stubs of balsa from the front half of the wreck and cut the tailplane/rudder lump off the remains of the back.

Fortunately the front end has plenty of support for the longerons as you will be able to see from the attached pix.

Finish for today, will glue the cf longerons in tomorrow after cutting them to length.

Due, in part, to a deadstick from the hitherto trusty ngh 25 plane landed out in the very rough grass and thistles that border our strip.

During the landing the u/c dug in and was torn out but this sudden stop caused the model to cartwheel and the resultant whiplash caused all the longerons to fracture.

I've agonised for ages on the best form of repair and have bought 5 x 1 metre lengths of carbon fibre 6mm square tube to replace the broken longerons, I'm also going to fit torsion bar wire u/c in the wing centre section, but lack the facilities to bend the wire needed so I've drawn up a pattern and am taking it to a local engineering company to do the bizzo.

The pix around here show the fuse end of the damage, I'll completely replace the wooden structure aka oil rig with a carbon fibre one, cutting out the stubs from the front end to bond the carbon tubes in.

What is the system that the CAA have devised? The latest from the bmfa (in this month's smae news) is do not "rush into registering or taking the the test etc etc"

I have my own views on what I intend to do or not do and just don't want to be dropped into the smelly brown stuff by the bmfa.

Incidentally I'm amazed at how easily contributors can manage to turn a fairly straightforward topic into bovine exhaust.

I suppose I'll have to find out from the horses mouth how easy it is to redact one's details.

In the event of the current CAA proposals becoming adopted as a Statute, how secure is our personal information with the bmfa?

I mean if the police ask for a list of bmfa members in an area what is the likelihood of the bmfa rolling over and giving them the info?

I've had two of the original 40 fs and one 40 surpass and they ran and idled great when inverted. In fact the former two ran like that without exhaust pressurisation

Edited By Braddock, VC on 06/09/2019 17:48:25

Cut a piece of silicon fuel tube to fit over the spray bar thread, with the main needle out of course. It should be long enough that the needle valve compresses it from about 2 turns in, iirc OS used to put a piece of fuel tube in the box for new engines just for this purpose.

Also check that the main jet is clean and that the idle mixture hole goes right through into the carb air inlet.

Took 35 gms off the front, wound the tickover back 4 clicks and it's a bobbies job, lovely slow landings, best afternoon's flying in a long time, the weather helped as well.

I'm into my second one of these, first one bit the dust because I had a Frisky faast compatible Rx installed, worked fine with a futaba cg 10 tx but first flight with the new 14 sg disaster. Like many artfs it simply became desiccated upon impact.

I had to drive a long way to pick this one up, but it was worth it.

My first one had a laser 80 up front and required about 20 gms of weight at the tail to make it manageable, this one has an OS 61 Fx that I've had for years and has been barely run.

I fitted it with a 14x6 apc lookalike and it flew really well, today I tried a Graupner grey 12x7 and couldn't believe that it didn't pull as well so I landed and replaced it with the 14x6, the engine is soooo quiet even at full throttle and is so reliable I really enjoy flying it. i've done in excess of 10 flights to date and as soon as I've bought some more 15% I'll get some more stick time in.

It turns out that rolls are a bit sluggish so I'll start moving some weight off the front and the rudder feels inadequate, it doesn't spin easily and neither does it do a stall turn really well. I hope the C of G adjustment rearwards will improve this.

My view a great model, if you can get one it's really good if a little flimsy round the edges.

25FP were schneurle ported but no great shakes, even on 15 or 20 % nitro, best easily obtainable 21 by a country mile is/was the irvine 20. There are more powerful ones but asp isn't one of them and cost could become an issue. The silencers of most 21s leave a lot to be desired.

Back to the OP the asp is a better bet than the 25 FP unless you already have an FP as they are good reliable engines with an OS no 8 plug and probably suited to your model if the design recommends it.

FWIW OS claimed a much higher output than was good for them for the FP series, in real terms the asp is about 15% more powerful and 15% more noisy, especially if the the os was fitted with the super silencer.

I have the 25FP, the OS 25 FSR and the Irvine 20, the fsr leaves them all for dead but they are a bit like rocking horse poo at present.

Yes, I noticed the variations with the CG, also the plane is built from a laser cut kit. the really annoying part has been the wood selection eg the top cabin rails are made from 3/8 triangle section that is soft as butter, some of the formers are soft 1/8 sheet and the beech engine bearers, which tend to stiffen up the structure, have been omitted.

It'll probably fly fine when I get it sorted but today I took off in flat calm and two mins into the flight half a gale blew through, high pucker factor.

Grandkids are a law unto themselves, mine is 7 going on 45 he's very technology biased and gets quite cross when I drag him outdoors, but he loves playing poosticks on the bridges over the streams in our village, as do I; it's all I have the energy for !

Good point, Pat. I think I'll try some more lead in the nose as that's the easiest option even though my head tells me the c of g isn't miles out as it has a lifting tail section and my other oldies with similar arrangements fly with a c of g in excess of 50% chord from the leading edge.

I'll let you know how I get on, but it won't be for a while as the grandson is coming down for the week and all the old men up the flying site give him the heebie-jeebies.......

Well it flew, still seems either over elevated or the c of g is too far bck. I'll try 3mm of light ply under the wing trailing edge at first to see if that sorts it.

Thanks for that, I have a scratch built model that needs torsion wires like that, regrettably it needs 5mm otherwise I would have ordered up spares from seagull, just my luck, eh?

Pics of the lead gorilla glued in place, tried shifting it, it's well and truly fixed.

Also access hatch for the servos, 1/8" bass gussets and held on with servo screws.

Just have to iron down the film and make the windscreen now , also some form of battery retention, stick on velcro hasn't taken to the battery.