Member postings for Braddock, VC

Yes, I noticed the variations with the CG, also the plane is built from a laser cut kit. the really annoying part has been the wood selection eg the top cabin rails are made from 3/8 triangle section that is soft as butter, some of the formers are soft 1/8 sheet and the beech engine bearers, which tend to stiffen up the structure, have been omitted.

It'll probably fly fine when I get it sorted but today I took off in flat calm and two mins into the flight half a gale blew through, high pucker factor.

Grandkids are a law unto themselves, mine is 7 going on 45 he's very technology biased and gets quite cross when I drag him outdoors, but he loves playing poosticks on the bridges over the streams in our village, as do I; it's all I have the energy for !

Good point, Pat. I think I'll try some more lead in the nose as that's the easiest option even though my head tells me the c of g isn't miles out as it has a lifting tail section and my other oldies with similar arrangements fly with a c of g in excess of 50% chord from the leading edge.

I'll let you know how I get on, but it won't be for a while as the grandson is coming down for the week and all the old men up the flying site give him the heebie-jeebies.......

Well it flew, still seems either over elevated or the c of g is too far bck. I'll try 3mm of light ply under the wing trailing edge at first to see if that sorts it.

Thanks for that, I have a scratch built model that needs torsion wires like that, regrettably it needs 5mm otherwise I would have ordered up spares from seagull, just my luck, eh?

Pics of the lead gorilla glued in place, tried shifting it, it's well and truly fixed.

Also access hatch for the servos, 1/8" bass gussets and held on with servo screws.

Just have to iron down the film and make the windscreen now , also some form of battery retention, stick on velcro hasn't taken to the battery.

I wonder if one of you kind gents could advise the diameter of the torsion wire for the undercarriage please.

Here's the glue setting, everything is wrapped in polythene sheet and the bands are holding the battery hatch on.

I'll have to make a pattern for the windscreen which was made out of thin mylar and disappeared on the first flight I had with it.

To continue, I fitted the wing and with the balance point set at 42% needed just 330 gms (the new servos are mounted at the C of G site)

Because of the flimsy front end I encapsulated the lead in gorilla glue as ther's nothing really strong enough to bolt the stuff to.

That's where I'm at at the moment waiting for the GG to set.

A few years ago I bought a second hand buzard bombshell, mainly bought it to try out electric flight.

As soon as I got home I knew I'd made a mistake as the esc didn't work and the centre of gravity was literally miles out, so much so that I had to fit 700 gms of Pb up front.

It flew but it was still tail heavy so I lobbed it in the back of my workshop with a view to putting a nice little 2 stroke in it.

Fast forward to last week when I pulled it out to start work.

It's really too flimsy to pop an engine in so I started looking over how I could make it work for me.

There's a pic nearby showing a glued in hatch that covered up where the servos were, two massive metal geared chinese servos that weighed just over 100 gms.

I cut a new hatch in and made and fitted a ply mount with two corona HV digitals. Pulled the snakes out of their tube and substituted a 14 swg wire rod for the rudder and a 2mm round carbon rod as the elevator pushrod in the original tubes. The wire rod had adaptors soldered on and the CF rod had them glued on.

As you've obviously hit a block try either using a dremel or a hacksaw to cut down through the driver cutting directly down alongside the prop shaft but away from it enough so it cuts the driver and the split cone the ideal position is shown on the attached photo. You'll see I've suggested at right angles to the split in the cone, as you cut it should relieve some of the pressure on the cone. If you apply yourself you can make the cut in 5 minutes flat. If you're going to hum and ha about it give up and send it back to just engines.

From machine mart, battery/windscreen wiper puller about £10

Should be westonuk.co.uk sorry

Should have gone to specsavers.....

Get in touch with Weston UK.co.uk they make ED engines now and can probably help you though it might be helpful to have an extra arm and leg. Alan, the owner, is really he!lpful.

I bought my corded dremel about 20 years or so ago, shortly after I forked out for an adjustable chuck. Best thing I ever did. 4 or 5 clones had come and gone by then but I've had absolutely no problems with the dremel since and it gets used for multiple trades.

Got my new keyboard and, as promised, my story from the 90s.

As soon as I got the engine home, I fastened it on the bench rig on my workmate in the backyard and ran it up, couple of twiddles with the needle and it was good to go, I must have left it ticking over when wifey called me in for my spag bol, wife and I shared a bottle of wine then started another and sat down to watch the box.

I was just thinking about turning in when she said something to the effect are you going to leave that thing working all night.

I can't remember the size of the tank I was using but it must have idled for at least 1.5 hours and picked up immediately with a twitch of throttle, I've always used OS no 8 plugs ever since.

What impressed me then and again the other day is at tickover the mini pipe is cool enough to hold even grip quite firmly when running and the cylinder head isn't that much warmer.

I've just been running up an OS 35 FP that I got for a vintage job and after a couple of minute tckover the silencer is appreciably warmer than the YS.

Im getting back into 2 strokes, being almost deaf means I dont have to worry about scale sounds. As you say the transition from idle to full throttle is about the best Ive had.

What astounded me was the extremely low consumtion at idle, almost matched by the enormous full throttle consumtion.

Excuse my syntax, the letter between O and Q alfabetically on my keyboard doesnt work neither do many of the unctuations

New keyboard on order, when it arrives Ill tell you a tale about the engine that occurred when I first got it.

One of the features that I liked about the engine was it will turn really big loads, if you can afford the time sorting a tuned exhaust out. I had a ST 40 X ri re and used the tune exhaust from that together with a manifold I bought at a show for about £2 and with a 12.5x6 grey grauner it was the dogs wotsits in a large own design low winger, with the mini weston silencer and a 10x9 my starjet was ballistic. (I think I also used a 9x8 but cant be sure......

Edited By Braddock, VC on 02/08/2019 12:03:07

Edited By Braddock, VC on 02/08/2019 12:13:25

Edited By Braddock, VC on 02/08/2019 12:15:38

20 % liquid gold, with the westons tuned silencer. Cant run it too long in the garden flat out, it really isnt subdued on full throttle.

Some images, I bought it around 1998 and it was getting on for 10 years of age then. The silencer was decorated to match my ARC model of the time, its lasted quite well.