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Member postings for Braddock, VC

Here is a list of all the postings Braddock, VC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Engine for largish cw Cub
21/06/2019 22:27:40

Tried it and one similar (Great Planes?) imho not in the same league, especially for larger section control surfaces. The leading edge on my cub's aileron is over 1/2" thick and chamfered to boot.

I won't say the slec one won't work what I will say is I get repeatable accuracy of holes time and again with the robart one, which is what prompted me to make my post.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 21/06/2019 22:28:13

21/06/2019 21:12:17

This little gizmo is worth its weight in gold, so easy to use, highly recommended yes

img_0215 (1).jpg

21/06/2019 15:51:50

Prior to joining the wings I've just spent about 4 hours fitting in 7 off 6mm blind nuts, drilling the wing for the locating dowels, kit is so old that these were imperial, don't have an imperial drill in the house! Then drilling the wing to put the retaining screws in.

Got to dig out the drilling jig for the control surface hinges, 4 in the fin/rudder, 6 in the tailplane/elevator and another 8 for the ailerons, then I can cover those parts that aren't covered, just the fuselage and wing halves are covered in white solartex can't get ahold of anymore so using world models lightext. I'll not be able to notice when it's flying, just deep down inside I'll know.

Thread: Is it now time for cyclists to wear an identifier and pay a tax?
21/06/2019 15:41:38
Posted by Andy Symons - BMFA on 21/06/2019 14:03:59:

The majority of cyclists already pay a lot of tax.

So do the bulk of honest non-cyclists.

We've moved on and the level of traffic is such that some form of control is inevitable and, inho, desirable.

It also seems likely that law abiding fliers will be taxed even more in the short term.

21/06/2019 13:51:54

Definitely, horse riders too. I also think that a minimum age should be instituted for both to ride unsupervised and that they should have compulsory third party insurance. Just to stir the pot I also think they should be subject to the rigorous application of the drink drive and mobile phone laws.

I hold this opinion after an incident I had involving a cyclist who turned in front of me without any form of signal whilst she was reading her mobile phone, I missed her btw and even my wife, the sternest critic I have of my driving, was marginally sympathetic when she viewed the dash cam footage.

Thread: 9CAP Replacement LCD
20/06/2019 13:09:43

Why not go straight to futaba?

Thread: Engine for largish cw Cub
20/06/2019 13:05:24

img_0214.jpgManaged to screw that up, basically what I do is take the connectors off both the servo and extension lead where the servo lead plugs in then solder them together , two layers of heat shrink tube over and bob's your uncle.

I also check them out on a servo tester to make sure they work.

The leads are the cheap HK ones which, tbh, tend to cause problems where the pins of the lead slip under the plastic stops, this way there is no problem.

 

img_0213.jpg

Edited By Braddock, VC on 20/06/2019 13:07:43

20/06/2019 12:58:52

img_0212.jpgimg_0211.jpgimg_0210.jpgimg_0209.jpgimg_0207.jpgimg_0206.jpgimg_0205.jpgStarted putting the electronics in, here's a pictorial of how I lengthen my servo leads.

Thread: Kings Lynn Model Shop
12/06/2019 20:19:40

I've always had good service from KLMS.

Charlie, one of the staff there is on rcmf.co.uk as a mod, maybe try on there.

Thread: Gaui engines and DB Hurricane
30/05/2019 08:59:05
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 30/05/2019 08:46:10:

With the greatest respect to Braddock i would strongly advise against any such modification. Many have tried, many have failed. The result is always the same with inconsistent running caused by variations in fuel flow. This leads to lean runs, overheating and damage. One chap melted both pistons on his brand new 240v due to a mod like this causing erratic tuning. The engine just wouldnt peak and in the process of figuring it out, it overheated and the (admittedly rubbish) oil in his fuel burnt off. This did the engine no favours i can assure you.

I do recall the article referenced in the magazine and at the time was unimpressed as it didnt actually fix the problem it claimed to and was extremely misleading with his conclusions being rather wide of the mark.

I always have the same conversation with customers about this and the answer is simple. Move the tank. Dont strap a bunch of junk to the engine, just move the tank. Its the cheapest solution as you dont have to buy anything, and its guaranteed to work. Once you start messing about with the fuel delivery it is impossible for me to diagnose running problems and the only advice i will give you when you have trouble would be...move the tank.

If the engine is installed in accordance with our instructions i can guarantee its performance and advise on running issues. However, if you think you know better and you mess with it you are essentially on your own as its all uncharted territory and i cant help you.

Oh yes, and your warranty goes out the window too.

As the manufacturer of the engine we do not recommend any additions to the fuel system and require the tank to be in line with the tanks. Dont try to argue with me about it, i wont be changing my mind and wont be filling up this thread with something unrelated.

Move your tanks chaps. Address the disease, not the symptoms.

Remind me when you came to my flying field and observed my engines running, don't seem to be able to recall that.

I can recall your diagnosis of rc plane flyer's irvine 46 which, to be honest, was wide of the mark.

Now how shall I regard your advice? I think I'll pass.

30/05/2019 00:59:00

If you want to use a laser inverted with the tank on the prop centre line with no problems, modify an old strimmer carb or similar e, buy a set of gaskets for it so you have a repair kit if it becomes necessary.

The modification is straightforward, first I will explain the reasoning and then general guidance which any modeller worthy of the name can follow.

The carb as fitted to a petrol two stroke is pumped by crankcase pressure, this oscillates the diaphragm until the pressure on the fuel side equals the pressure on the pump side and the situation will stay like this until the engine is running with no fuel leaking through the carb. When the engine starts running, the vacuum on the upstroke of the piston causes fuel to be drawn through the jets and the pressure on the fuel side of the carb drops, the diaphragm valve is pushed over to allow more fuel into the carb and thence to the engine.

To modify it, we no longer have the crankcase pressure to operate the pump side of the carb, so a nipple must be installed (if the carb is bolted direct to the block with a passageway through to the crankcase) you can install the nipple by tapping that hole, some carbs, like on the range of engines made by evolution, have an adaptor fitted so you won't have to do that.

You no longer need the jets so these can be shut off completely by screwing the H & L needles closed (I prefer to dremel the heads off once this is done to prevent fiddling but it isn't necessary - I also remove the throttle and choke assemblies too).

You now need to fit a nipple into the carb casing on the pressurised fuel side, a 3mm hole and epoxy in a 3mm alloy tube and the most of the work is done.

The old mounting holes can be used to fasten the carb any where convenient, connect up the fuel outlet to your carb and the nipple for the crankcase pressure to preferably your exhaust pressure nipple on the engine or to the crankcase vent on a laser via a T piece, the open end of which you reduce in size, if it's plastic, with a hot soldering iron, if it's metal by crimping.

Choking the engine will draw fuel through and when it's started the pressure pulses from the engine will pump the fuel, the little flap valves in the element will prevent fuel flow when the engine is stopped.

I can assure you it will pull fuel from about 8" away from the engine, I fitted one inverted in a WM midget mustang with a laser 80, that's where I learned to crimp the open end of the T piece.

I also used it on an OS 160 Fx on crankcase pressure at first then on silencer pressure as I was plagued with leaks from the crankcase, using a drilled bolt via one of the backplate mounting screws on through a 1.5 mm hole into the crankcase.

I gave one to my pal at the flying field who had a super tigre 20/23 that was plagued with dead sticks, his tank was about a foot away from the engine and he took the pulses from the silencer, the dead sticks stopped.

You can pick the old carbs up for free if you know the proprietor of a lawnmower repair place, couple of quid if he's tight.

I forgot to say that you leave the fuel inlet nipple where it is, but you knew that anyway, didn't you.

I can't claim responsibility for this idea, it was published in one of the mags from when we had a choice, modelflyer I think and was passed on by the editor Ken somebody or other I think who used it on a laser 150 iirc, but I can't remember if he used crankcase or exh pressure.

As fuel is only supplied on demand it won't drip when stopped, flood the engine etc.

Going back to the OP, what about the OS 200 Surpass?

Thread: Bearing Supplier
28/05/2019 18:25:02

Just a satisfied customer, the p&p is free too.

simplybearings.co.uk

Thread: Gaui engines and DB Hurricane
27/05/2019 09:17:41

Go for it and let us know how you get on. I would imagine that any engine designed for UAV operation will be 100% bullet proof as the prime mover for a model.

Thread: OS Irvine 46 query
26/05/2019 21:15:29

Have you got it back together yet?

TBH the parts I ordered to repair my 72 aren't with me yet....

26/05/2019 21:15:28

Have you got it back together yet?

TBH the parts I ordered to repair my 72 aren't with me yet....

Thread: Futaba servos.
23/05/2019 10:55:36
Posted by J D 8 on 23/05/2019 10:53:48:

I still have some 70's Futaba servos, FD16, FD 26 and FD33M all still working fine. Some still at work on secondary duty. They are slow compared to modern stuff, like half speed.

Ideal for throttle servos then yes.

23/05/2019 10:49:57
Posted by Wilco Wingco on 23/05/2019 07:37:33:

**LINK**

Still being sold on a well known auction site

 

That link is 9 years old.......still valid though, the size of the output shaft gear teeth will probably have an adverse effect on the resolution of the servo I would have thought.

I also have faith in corona and turnigy servos which have never let me down in service.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 23/05/2019 10:52:31

23/05/2019 10:41:53
Posted by Nigel R on 23/05/2019 09:47:56:

Can't fault a genuine Futaba made standard, they're a benchmark.

My own pile of standard size is mainly JR 507s, but I don't believe there is anything to differentiate them from Futaba, both well built solid units. I've still got a set of the old 505s in regular use, and they went obsolete sometime in the early 1980s - all working just fine.

I know some JR servos are 4.8 volts only, I ditched all of mine as I use 2 cell LiFe batteries exclusively for my rx. I had a couple of jr servos let their smoke out being the reason.

Thread: In The Newsagents ...
23/05/2019 10:38:07
Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 23/05/2019 01:02:08:

Braddock, this forum is famous for wandering off topic.

God allmighty, I never noticed that wink

Thread: OS Irvine 46 query
23/05/2019 10:36:14

Well done, it reminds me I didn't offer up the one tip that may have helped with that, aerosol carb cleaner, the kind used to clean carbs, this will shift most crud and, if necessary, you can use it to clean the Mass air flowmeter on your petrol car where the results may surprise you.

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