Here is a list of all the postings Braddock, VC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Buzzard Bombshell|
Here's the glue setting, everything is wrapped in polythene sheet and the bands are holding the battery hatch on.
To continue, I fitted the wing and with the balance point set at 42% needed just 330 gms (the new servos are mounted at the C of G site)
Because of the flimsy front end I encapsulated the lead in gorilla glue as ther's nothing really strong enough to bolt the stuff to.
That's where I'm at at the moment waiting for the GG to set.
A few years ago I bought a second hand buzard bombshell, mainly bought it to try out electric flight.
As soon as I got home I knew I'd made a mistake as the esc didn't work and the centre of gravity was literally miles out, so much so that I had to fit 700 gms of Pb up front.
It flew but it was still tail heavy so I lobbed it in the back of my workshop with a view to putting a nice little 2 stroke in it.
Fast forward to last week when I pulled it out to start work.
It's really too flimsy to pop an engine in so I started looking over how I could make it work for me.
There's a pic nearby showing a glued in hatch that covered up where the servos were, two massive metal geared chinese servos that weighed just over 100 gms.
I cut a new hatch in and made and fitted a ply mount with two corona HV digitals. Pulled the snakes out of their tube and substituted a 14 swg wire rod for the rudder and a 2mm round carbon rod as the elevator pushrod in the original tubes. The wire rod had adaptors soldered on and the CF rod had them glued on.
|Thread: ASP prop driver stuck!|
As you've obviously hit a block try either using a dremel or a hacksaw to cut down through the driver cutting directly down alongside the prop shaft but away from it enough so it cuts the driver and the split cone the ideal position is shown on the attached photo. You'll see I've suggested at right angles to the split in the cone, as you cut it should relieve some of the pressure on the cone. If you apply yourself you can make the cut in 5 minutes flat. If you're going to hum and ha about it give up and send it back to just engines.
|Thread: ED Hunter MK IV - Prop nut assembly damage|
Should be westonuk.co.uk sorry
|Thread: Best Dremel Clone|
Should have gone to specsavers.....
|Thread: ED Hunter MK IV - Prop nut assembly damage|
Get in touch with Weston UK.co.uk they make ED engines now and can probably help you though it might be helpful to have an extra arm and leg. Alan, the owner, is really he!lpful.
|Thread: Best Dremel Clone|
I bought my corded dremel about 20 years or so ago, shortly after I forked out for an adjustable chuck. Best thing I ever did. 4 or 5 clones had come and gone by then but I've had absolutely no problems with the dremel since and it gets used for multiple trades.
|Thread: YS 45 2 stroke|
Got my new keyboard and, as promised, my story from the 90s.
As soon as I got the engine home, I fastened it on the bench rig on my workmate in the backyard and ran it up, couple of twiddles with the needle and it was good to go, I must have left it ticking over when wifey called me in for my spag bol, wife and I shared a bottle of wine then started another and sat down to watch the box.
I was just thinking about turning in when she said something to the effect are you going to leave that thing working all night.
I can't remember the size of the tank I was using but it must have idled for at least 1.5 hours and picked up immediately with a twitch of throttle, I've always used OS no 8 plugs ever since.
What impressed me then and again the other day is at tickover the mini pipe is cool enough to hold even grip quite firmly when running and the cylinder head isn't that much warmer.
I've just been running up an OS 35 FP that I got for a vintage job and after a couple of minute tckover the silencer is appreciably warmer than the YS.
Im getting back into 2 strokes, being almost deaf means I dont have to worry about scale sounds. As you say the transition from idle to full throttle is about the best Ive had.
What astounded me was the extremely low consumtion at idle, almost matched by the enormous full throttle consumtion.
Excuse my syntax, the letter between O and Q alfabetically on my keyboard doesnt work neither do many of the unctuations
New keyboard on order, when it arrives Ill tell you a tale about the engine that occurred when I first got it.
One of the features that I liked about the engine was it will turn really big loads, if you can afford the time sorting a tuned exhaust out. I had a ST 40 X ri re and used the tune exhaust from that together with a manifold I bought at a show for about £2 and with a 12.5x6 grey grauner it was the dogs wotsits in a large own design low winger, with the mini weston silencer and a 10x9 my starjet was ballistic. (I think I also used a 9x8 but cant be sure......
Edited By Braddock, VC on 02/08/2019 12:03:07
Edited By Braddock, VC on 02/08/2019 12:13:25
Edited By Braddock, VC on 02/08/2019 12:15:38
20 % liquid gold, with the westons tuned silencer. Cant run it too long in the garden flat out, it really isnt subdued on full throttle.
Some images, I bought it around 1998 and it was getting on for 10 years of age then. The silencer was decorated to match my ARC model of the time, its lasted quite well.
Just building another wot4, it'll be the 12th one. Engines are getting a bit thin on the ground so I dug out my old ys.
This engine has quite a history, I bought it second the hand from the original nexus model supplies for about £40, it came with a Weston mini pipe. Before that it had belonged to a local modeller who bought it second hand from a chap who bought it second hand in Florida.
The last plane I had it in was a starjet delta and for some reason it dead sticked and the plane flew through a tree suffering major design modifications.
When I retrieved it this am I found the backplate screws had slackened off effectively wiping out the crankcase pressure which the engine uses to pressurise the fuel tank so I fitted some slightly longer Allen screws loctited them in, mounted it in my stand with about 50cc of fuel, put a new is no8 in and started her up, peaked the top end out with an 11x8 APC 13550 - 13600 on my tacho then throttled back to tick over which was 2000.
This was 1106 this am, at 1143 the engine stopped. What's going on here a hi performance 45 running at tick over in excess of 30 mins on about 50cc of fuel, so it's now going into my KK Falcon with a funfly prop 12x3.75 fitted to see if I can get the duration.
FWIW it still has the original bearings, the compression is such that it needs a prop on to be able to turn it over, just need to buy another minipipe as the flange has distorted, I'll ask Weston's to put a really thick mounting flange to preclude a repetition.
|Thread: Engine for largish cw Cub|
Tried it and one similar (Great Planes?) imho not in the same league, especially for larger section control surfaces. The leading edge on my cub's aileron is over 1/2" thick and chamfered to boot.
I won't say the slec one won't work what I will say is I get repeatable accuracy of holes time and again with the robart one, which is what prompted me to make my post.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 21/06/2019 22:28:13
This little gizmo is worth its weight in gold, so easy to use, highly recommended
Prior to joining the wings I've just spent about 4 hours fitting in 7 off 6mm blind nuts, drilling the wing for the locating dowels, kit is so old that these were imperial, don't have an imperial drill in the house! Then drilling the wing to put the retaining screws in.
Got to dig out the drilling jig for the control surface hinges, 4 in the fin/rudder, 6 in the tailplane/elevator and another 8 for the ailerons, then I can cover those parts that aren't covered, just the fuselage and wing halves are covered in white solartex can't get ahold of anymore so using world models lightext. I'll not be able to notice when it's flying, just deep down inside I'll know.
|Thread: Is it now time for cyclists to wear an identifier and pay a tax?|
Definitely, horse riders too. I also think that a minimum age should be instituted for both to ride unsupervised and that they should have compulsory third party insurance. Just to stir the pot I also think they should be subject to the rigorous application of the drink drive and mobile phone laws.
I hold this opinion after an incident I had involving a cyclist who turned in front of me without any form of signal whilst she was reading her mobile phone, I missed her btw and even my wife, the sternest critic I have of my driving, was marginally sympathetic when she viewed the dash cam footage.
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