By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Braddock, VC

Here is a list of all the postings Braddock, VC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Engine for largish cw Cub
20/06/2019 13:05:24

img_0214.jpgManaged to screw that up, basically what I do is take the connectors off both the servo and extension lead where the servo lead plugs in then solder them together , two layers of heat shrink tube over and bob's your uncle.

I also check them out on a servo tester to make sure they work.

The leads are the cheap HK ones which, tbh, tend to cause problems where the pins of the lead slip under the plastic stops, this way there is no problem.



Edited By Braddock, VC on 20/06/2019 13:07:43

20/06/2019 12:58:52

img_0212.jpgimg_0211.jpgimg_0210.jpgimg_0209.jpgimg_0207.jpgimg_0206.jpgimg_0205.jpgStarted putting the electronics in, here's a pictorial of how I lengthen my servo leads.

Thread: Kings Lynn Model Shop
12/06/2019 20:19:40

I've always had good service from KLMS.

Charlie, one of the staff there is on as a mod, maybe try on there.

Thread: Gaui engines and DB Hurricane
30/05/2019 08:59:05
Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 30/05/2019 08:46:10:

With the greatest respect to Braddock i would strongly advise against any such modification. Many have tried, many have failed. The result is always the same with inconsistent running caused by variations in fuel flow. This leads to lean runs, overheating and damage. One chap melted both pistons on his brand new 240v due to a mod like this causing erratic tuning. The engine just wouldnt peak and in the process of figuring it out, it overheated and the (admittedly rubbish) oil in his fuel burnt off. This did the engine no favours i can assure you.

I do recall the article referenced in the magazine and at the time was unimpressed as it didnt actually fix the problem it claimed to and was extremely misleading with his conclusions being rather wide of the mark.

I always have the same conversation with customers about this and the answer is simple. Move the tank. Dont strap a bunch of junk to the engine, just move the tank. Its the cheapest solution as you dont have to buy anything, and its guaranteed to work. Once you start messing about with the fuel delivery it is impossible for me to diagnose running problems and the only advice i will give you when you have trouble would be...move the tank.

If the engine is installed in accordance with our instructions i can guarantee its performance and advise on running issues. However, if you think you know better and you mess with it you are essentially on your own as its all uncharted territory and i cant help you.

Oh yes, and your warranty goes out the window too.

As the manufacturer of the engine we do not recommend any additions to the fuel system and require the tank to be in line with the tanks. Dont try to argue with me about it, i wont be changing my mind and wont be filling up this thread with something unrelated.

Move your tanks chaps. Address the disease, not the symptoms.

Remind me when you came to my flying field and observed my engines running, don't seem to be able to recall that.

I can recall your diagnosis of rc plane flyer's irvine 46 which, to be honest, was wide of the mark.

Now how shall I regard your advice? I think I'll pass.

30/05/2019 00:59:00

If you want to use a laser inverted with the tank on the prop centre line with no problems, modify an old strimmer carb or similar e, buy a set of gaskets for it so you have a repair kit if it becomes necessary.

The modification is straightforward, first I will explain the reasoning and then general guidance which any modeller worthy of the name can follow.

The carb as fitted to a petrol two stroke is pumped by crankcase pressure, this oscillates the diaphragm until the pressure on the fuel side equals the pressure on the pump side and the situation will stay like this until the engine is running with no fuel leaking through the carb. When the engine starts running, the vacuum on the upstroke of the piston causes fuel to be drawn through the jets and the pressure on the fuel side of the carb drops, the diaphragm valve is pushed over to allow more fuel into the carb and thence to the engine.

To modify it, we no longer have the crankcase pressure to operate the pump side of the carb, so a nipple must be installed (if the carb is bolted direct to the block with a passageway through to the crankcase) you can install the nipple by tapping that hole, some carbs, like on the range of engines made by evolution, have an adaptor fitted so you won't have to do that.

You no longer need the jets so these can be shut off completely by screwing the H & L needles closed (I prefer to dremel the heads off once this is done to prevent fiddling but it isn't necessary - I also remove the throttle and choke assemblies too).

You now need to fit a nipple into the carb casing on the pressurised fuel side, a 3mm hole and epoxy in a 3mm alloy tube and the most of the work is done.

The old mounting holes can be used to fasten the carb any where convenient, connect up the fuel outlet to your carb and the nipple for the crankcase pressure to preferably your exhaust pressure nipple on the engine or to the crankcase vent on a laser via a T piece, the open end of which you reduce in size, if it's plastic, with a hot soldering iron, if it's metal by crimping.

Choking the engine will draw fuel through and when it's started the pressure pulses from the engine will pump the fuel, the little flap valves in the element will prevent fuel flow when the engine is stopped.

I can assure you it will pull fuel from about 8" away from the engine, I fitted one inverted in a WM midget mustang with a laser 80, that's where I learned to crimp the open end of the T piece.

I also used it on an OS 160 Fx on crankcase pressure at first then on silencer pressure as I was plagued with leaks from the crankcase, using a drilled bolt via one of the backplate mounting screws on through a 1.5 mm hole into the crankcase.

I gave one to my pal at the flying field who had a super tigre 20/23 that was plagued with dead sticks, his tank was about a foot away from the engine and he took the pulses from the silencer, the dead sticks stopped.

You can pick the old carbs up for free if you know the proprietor of a lawnmower repair place, couple of quid if he's tight.

I forgot to say that you leave the fuel inlet nipple where it is, but you knew that anyway, didn't you.

I can't claim responsibility for this idea, it was published in one of the mags from when we had a choice, modelflyer I think and was passed on by the editor Ken somebody or other I think who used it on a laser 150 iirc, but I can't remember if he used crankcase or exh pressure.

As fuel is only supplied on demand it won't drip when stopped, flood the engine etc.

Going back to the OP, what about the OS 200 Surpass?

Thread: Bearing Supplier
28/05/2019 18:25:02

Just a satisfied customer, the p&p is free too.

Thread: Gaui engines and DB Hurricane
27/05/2019 09:17:41

Go for it and let us know how you get on. I would imagine that any engine designed for UAV operation will be 100% bullet proof as the prime mover for a model.

Thread: OS Irvine 46 query
26/05/2019 21:15:29

Have you got it back together yet?

TBH the parts I ordered to repair my 72 aren't with me yet....

26/05/2019 21:15:28

Have you got it back together yet?

TBH the parts I ordered to repair my 72 aren't with me yet....

Thread: Futaba servos.
23/05/2019 10:55:36
Posted by J D 8 on 23/05/2019 10:53:48:

I still have some 70's Futaba servos, FD16, FD 26 and FD33M all still working fine. Some still at work on secondary duty. They are slow compared to modern stuff, like half speed.

Ideal for throttle servos then yes.

23/05/2019 10:49:57
Posted by Wilco Wingco on 23/05/2019 07:37:33:


Still being sold on a well known auction site


That link is 9 years old.......still valid though, the size of the output shaft gear teeth will probably have an adverse effect on the resolution of the servo I would have thought.

I also have faith in corona and turnigy servos which have never let me down in service.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 23/05/2019 10:52:31

23/05/2019 10:41:53
Posted by Nigel R on 23/05/2019 09:47:56:

Can't fault a genuine Futaba made standard, they're a benchmark.

My own pile of standard size is mainly JR 507s, but I don't believe there is anything to differentiate them from Futaba, both well built solid units. I've still got a set of the old 505s in regular use, and they went obsolete sometime in the early 1980s - all working just fine.

I know some JR servos are 4.8 volts only, I ditched all of mine as I use 2 cell LiFe batteries exclusively for my rx. I had a couple of jr servos let their smoke out being the reason.

Thread: In The Newsagents ...
23/05/2019 10:38:07
Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 23/05/2019 01:02:08:

Braddock, this forum is famous for wandering off topic.

God allmighty, I never noticed that wink

Thread: OS Irvine 46 query
23/05/2019 10:36:14

Well done, it reminds me I didn't offer up the one tip that may have helped with that, aerosol carb cleaner, the kind used to clean carbs, this will shift most crud and, if necessary, you can use it to clean the Mass air flowmeter on your petrol car where the results may surprise you.

Thread: In The Newsagents ...
23/05/2019 00:31:42

Percy, a little story. Wife and I went to the pilot at dungeness coinciding with the school run, I watched a boy breakdancing (?) along the pavement in a world of his own. I told my wife I remembered doing something like that one time when my school broke up for summer hols and I walked straight into a gas lamp post that floored me.

Happy days.

Thread: Futaba servos.
23/05/2019 00:26:31

As I mentioned, it dates back a quarter of a century, pretty confident that predates Chinese copying techniques.

Thread: OS Irvine 46 query
22/05/2019 23:55:30
Posted by RC Plane Flyer on 22/05/2019 19:07:28:

Hi Braddock had E Mail from Sussex models around 1630 to say all parts are made to order ?? had a second e mail at 1723 advising price and part numbers and 2/3 days delivery ??? . Will make a phone call tomorrow to see which is correct. Really struggling with this con rod at any position

I generally phone. If it's in Ripmax catalogue online generally it's available so you should be ok. Irvine parts are what's left after they ceased manufacture. You may be ok with the OS made engines as they tend to produce parts for some time.

Removing the Conrod can be difficult, quite important to get the top end of the rod toward the rear of the gudgeon pin then and grasp the rod with an L shaped tool near the big end, it should come off. Remember to mark the rod so it goes back the same way it came off. Some Irvine's have an oil hole drilled into the bronze bearing and this face of the rod should face toward the crank web.

If all else fails grip it with a pliers and pull, it HAS to come out. Any damage caused by the pliers can be dressed with some form of abrasive, as long as it's smooth it should be ok.

Please remember it's your engine and my advice assumes competence, if you damage it in any way it's your responsibility not mine, I'm just telling you how I do it.

Remember anything you read on the web is 99.9999% bull I just may be the odd 0.0001% or I may not 😉

Edited By Braddock, VC on 22/05/2019 23:56:29

Thread: Futaba servos.
22/05/2019 22:47:54

I have a great deal of confidence in futaba servos and I was sorting through my servo box tonight to come up with 5 for my soon to be completed Modeltech Cub.

Managed to get 4 S3001s and a handful of s148s and popped them all on the servo tester.

One of the 3001s had a problem with the gears and one of the 148s wouldn't work at all.

Twas the work of 5 minutes to swap the gear trains over and now I have 4 working 3001s and one 148 for the throttle.

I wondered why the 148 that I'd cannibalised had failed and there was no sound from the motor so I pulled the bottom off to test the continuity of the lead when I noticed the signal wire had broken free of the soldering to the pcb.

I could have soldered it back but I cut the lead off completely for future use and dumped it as I hate having 1/2 servos and, as I'd had it since 1994, it didn't owe me anything.

Whilst writing this post I remembered I have a couple more suspect 148s so I pulled it back out of the bin and when I get a moment I'll check out the three of them and see if I can get at least another one working.

To be continued...............

Thread: In The Newsagents ...
22/05/2019 20:27:27

Percy, you and I are in the minority. I have to say that I prefer my kids engrossed in their phones than smoking which was the pastime of the young many years ago.

I also note they don't pick their noses as much as kids in my day wink.

Thread: OS Irvine 46 query
22/05/2019 18:21:11
Posted by RC Plane Flyer on 22/05/2019 15:25:58:

Thanks for that awaiting reply via contact page

Wouldn't bother contacting ripmax, sussex model centre will do all that and charge you ripmax prices.

Just engines don't do an aftermarket liner for irvines I think it's safe to say, they used to do one for the OS Fx series but I think they don't do one for the Ax series now, maybe wrong though.

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Sussex Model Centre
electricwingman 2017
Advertise With Us
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Has home isolation prompted you to start trad' building?
Q: The effects of Coronavirus

 Yes - for the first time
 Yes - but Ive bashed balsa before
 No - Ive existing projects on the bench
 No - Im strictly an ARTF person

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E!