Here is a list of all the postings Braddock, VC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Undercarriage Upgrade.|
I have an OS 52 surpass that is sitting round doing nothing since I bought it about 10 years ago, it has the same mounting footprint as the OS 46 AX that is installed currently and I'm considering doing a swap, trouble is the 52 fs is a couple of ounces lighter than the 2 stroke, as fitted, and the plane currently has about 4 ounces of nose weight to get it to balance and yet it still "feels" tail heavy when flying, even with a full fuel tank. This is borne out by the dive test, so one way or another I'll need to add weight to it.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 04/03/2019 12:17:35
Our strip is pretty rough in the winter but evenso, this model has been a pain. The last landing I had was a greaser, lovely and slow and yet off came the u/c, hence this thread.
Last night I made the two plates that secure the fixed end of the u/c, you will note a couple of points, that the slots are slightly staggered and that the edges of the slots are "case hardened" by the application of a drop of thin superglue.
The plates are made from 4mm birch ply which is exactly the diameter of the wire. Ordinarily I would choose 5mm wire but the scantlings of this model are minimal.
I left it for a week or so so Bruce can retrieve his bottom lip from the floor .
to get at these fretted holes I had to remove the tank, to do that I'd to remove the cowl, then 30 minute epoxy to secure them in place and some clamps to hold them there whilst the glue sets. As I said elsewhere I like to give the glue ample time to cure, so I'll continue tomorrow.
The next stage will be to cut out 4mm birch ply doublers with slots in to act as anchors for the bent end of the torsion bar u/c; the actual bars will sit next to one another in a fore and aft direction so the slots will have to be staggered. When those components are in and dried triangle section will be glued in to help support the flimsy formers, then a new 6mm plate cut and drilled to fit the aperture and then covered. Then the two wire legs will be fitted into their respective holes and the pair held down to the 6mm plate with either brass homemade or plastic shop bought clamps.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 03/03/2019 16:15:22
|Thread: Death of a Fun-Fly.|
|Thread: Wot? Not a drone?|
Miscreant eh,genepool would have been diluted if Flybe had hit him.
|Thread: OS 46 FX|
Faint heart never wotsit fair maiden, ask Ripmax if they can fix it, I had a donkey's years old 10 fp and a 46 fx with duff liners, phoned up and they renewed both the liners and pistons for the cost of postage to them. Can't remember when but it was after production of both ceased.
It was a well known fault. Try e-mailing OS direct (it's free isn't it), if ripmax don't honour their responsibility, they just might do it.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 27/02/2019 19:24:11
|Thread: Death of a Fun-Fly.|
Couple of things, first up I dumped nimh years ago, bought some of the last nicads from overlander then, when they started declining, went to life batteries, have never had a battery problem since. This was for both rx and tx btw.
My seagull blade had a faulty switch and I've subsequently renewed all my old fashioned switches and replaced them with HD type, such a small cost really against the potential loss of a large amount by comparison.
Generally speaking two 1100 mAh life batteries are about the same weight as one 2000+ mAh Ni** chemistry battery and, tbh, I've never used more than 60% of the battery capacity in a long afternoon of flying. (one for spark and one for rx; in my nicad days I would recharge between flights but don't bother with the life cells)
One word of advice, the budget JR servos (591s ?) won't take more than 5 volts for a few minutes without letting the smoke out, futaba budget (148, 3001, 3003, 3004 fp 26 ? )seem to have no problem at all with life on load voltage. FWIW hitec servos have no problem either.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 26/02/2019 12:30:48
Edited By Braddock, VC on 26/02/2019 12:31:46
|Thread: Six Nations 2019|
I love this version.
Is that called putting the cat amongst the pigeons?
Max Boyce was asked how he thought the Welsh grand slam team of 1971 would fare against the current english squad, he replied we'd be lucky to get a draw.
The TV reporter was aghast, you mean you don't think they'd win? Max said come on be fair Barry john is nearly 80 and gareth edwards isn't much younger.
|Thread: Undercarriage Upgrade.|
I'll leave that for the moment as I'll have to get some scrap ply to make the mounts, should be back tomorrow or the next day after wales beat england.
All you need is a piece of wire of the correct diameter, I'm using 4mm diameter for my Blade, a vice, a hammer and a bench.
I don't know why that went blue like that?
I don't know about anyone else but I've been really peed off with undercarriages being pulled out when performing perfectly acceptable landings.
This occurs with artfs and kit built models, how many times have you seen a wot4 build and someone has said beef up the landing area with triangular wood/epoxy and fibreglass etc etc.
I'm not going to guarantee this method 100% but it has worked for me and it's really nearly as quick as gluing an undercarriage plate back on and doesn't require specialist wood or glues, in fact the only item I had to buy was a piece of piano wire of the correct diameter.
The undercarriage that has stood the test of time is the torsion bar type.
I bought a second hand Black Horse Blade artf that had already had problems so I'm going to show how I did the upgrade.
Paxolin and tufnol are variations on a theme, big thing is they can resist mechanical deterioration eg by vibration probably better than fibreglass board. I'd probably guess that tufnol is the more resistant of the two but that's just in a sledgehammer v nut scenario. I think they also preceded fibreglass board by several decades.
Interesting discussion here https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93688
FWIW SLECuk do a glass filled nylon (I think) engine plate in various sizes, it's possible to use self tappers to secure an engine like the 30 4 stroke.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 14/02/2019 00:37:44
|Thread: Doubler mistake|
|Thread: Film covering to repair "alumium" Mustang wing|
Get some balsaloc adhesive and try the film you have.
|Thread: Wot 4 Saito 62|
This is the same question that someone with the same nom de plume asked over on the other forum, I've answered it there with a picture of my installation of a saito 62 included.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 03/02/2019 15:33:09
|Thread: WOT 4 Servo Query|
I like digitals and I like corona, never had a problem with them. I have them in my old 1986 ish wot 4 as below. Cant remember how much they cost about a tenner each I think. I have them in half a dozen planes with up to OS120AX power but you are probably aware of the warning above that not all escs have hi power becs and that can screw you. All my planes bar one (and that's going to ic before the summer) have life batteries of at least 1100mAh capacity.
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