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Member postings for Braddock, VC

Here is a list of all the postings Braddock, VC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk
08/03/2019 19:20:53

If you remove it carefully you can re-use the covering material, may require a dab or two of balsa lock but that's ok too.

Thread: Gone,but not forgotten kit mfg
07/03/2019 11:41:59

MicroMold kits, I bought the kawasaki hien and liked it so much I bought another "just in case" I sold the second at the 2004 nats for a bit more than I gave for it and two weeks or so later, just in case happened and an oak tree trunk v balsa proved the old saying a good big un will always beat a good little un.

Always wanted the spit mk 24 I think. Ho Hum, don't have the reflexes now to keep up with it though.

Thread: Undercarriage Upgrade.
05/03/2019 17:55:03
Posted by Nigel R on 05/03/2019 17:12:24:

How on earth do you drill through the piano wire? I suppose you have to start with filing a small flat then into a drill press?

Nigel, here's a clue from my 15.55 post "Then I heated the free end of the axle to red heat and enough heat trickled down to the nut to solder each of them to their etc" A coil of multicore solder around the axle next to the nut (after cleaning) when it melts and fuses the nut to the axle, the temperature is below that required to alter the temper of the steel ( the hole in the nut was a tight fit on the 4mm wire and I actually warmed up the nuts to ease their passage [with a soldering iron btw]).

The end of the wire is then normalised (sort of annealed), file a small v notch then drill with a good quality drill.

I use my dremel with a drill chuck to do it.

The piano wire remains piano wire except for 10 - 15 mm at the very end and it's still tough enough there to resist bending by landing.

Some folks put a piece of brass tube over the axle which is 5 mm or so overlapped then drill that, after soldering the brass to the axle.

05/03/2019 15:55:23

Found I'd run out of those brass wheel retainers so I drilled a 4mm hole through a couple of 4mm nuts and tapped them onto the wheel axles. Then I heated the free end of the axle to red heat and enough heat trickled down to the nut to solder each of them to their respective axles to act as wheel stops, when I get a moment I'll drill a 2mm hole in the end of each axle as I have a packet of 1.5mm split pins from the year dot, a washer inboard of them then split pin and the wheel's held on without any expensive bits of brass. I think the nuts are just about visible in the picture.img_0102 (1).jpg

05/03/2019 09:53:43

All downhill now. Just have to wait on the epoxy curing on these last two bits of 4mm ply which hold the u/c steady, then just shape the edges and cover or paint whichever falls easiest to hand.img_0101.jpg

Edited By Braddock, VC on 05/03/2019 09:55:00

Edited By Braddock, VC on 05/03/2019 09:55:54

04/03/2019 23:30:13

Knocked up the 6mm ply plate, installed several pieces of triangle balsa to increase gluing area and also replaced some iffy parts of formers with hard 6mm square balsa.

Test fitted the u/c legs and then gorilla glued the plate in place. For those that don't know, superglue dissolves gorilla glue once it has set so care must be taken not to get the two in close proximity as, as gorilla glue sets, it appears the fumes from ca have a deleterious effect on the gorilla glue.

Getting close to the finish now.img_0100.jpg

04/03/2019 18:14:47
Posted by Nigel R on 04/03/2019 17:23:40:

"After 10 minutes "

You work fast.

Takes me about an hour to cut and bend a U/C!

Anyway. Preaching to the choir here. I'm sold on this method.

It was freezing outside where my bench is so I had to be quick or cold

04/03/2019 17:59:52

You say that, C8 but iirc correctly the BT FW 190 and Hurricane were balsa apart from a couple of chunks of ply round the retracts and the firewall, but almost 25 years have passed since they flew out the door.

Clamps away!

The gorilla glue looks manky but I'll trim it back with a stanley knife and a router bit in my dremel then drill out the u/c channels with a 4mm drill to clear them.

I put an extra 4mm birch ply doubler over the anchor slot, this should stop any flexing and premature failure (I hope!)

The panel screws I put in to pull the structure tight over the glue interface and I'll probably leave them in.


04/03/2019 16:21:16

Geoff and Cuban, I can't speak for all artfs but Black horse have a reputation for inadequate u/c mounting and my own experience of lower range seagull models is similar. When I built my black Horse Ultimate back in 2010 I installed the torsion bar u/c from my crashed goldberg ultimate and they are still on the plane and undamaged as we speak.
On the other hand the wheels that came with this blade are not half bad. I have a couple of sets of trexlers that I toyed with fitting but the economics say the kit is cheaper than the trexlers so I won't bother and they'll go back on my J60.

I've bent up a couple of sets of 4mm wire to fit to my seagull spacewalker when I get round to repairing that one.

Besides it beats doing nothing and each time I perform a bit of maintenance like this I learn a little more, what I've learned this time is to store my flipping clamps where I can find the damn things!

Edited By Braddock, VC on 04/03/2019 16:21:58

04/03/2019 15:46:30

img_0097.jpgGorilla gluing the ply into the fuselage, while I was at it I made a doubler from 4mm birchply to glue to the forward face of the wing retaining former as that was shot. All will be revealed when the glue sets. I'll add the triangle cross section reinforcement and 6mm ply base later on.img_0096.jpg

Edited By Braddock, VC on 04/03/2019 15:49:17

04/03/2019 12:16:58

I have an OS 52 surpass that is sitting round doing nothing since I bought it about 10 years ago, it has the same mounting footprint as the OS 46 AX that is installed currently and I'm considering doing a swap, trouble is the 52 fs is a couple of ounces lighter than the 2 stroke, as fitted, and the plane currently has about 4 ounces of nose weight to get it to balance and yet it still "feels" tail heavy when flying, even with a full fuel tank. This is borne out by the dive test, so one way or another I'll need to add weight to it.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 04/03/2019 12:17:35

04/03/2019 11:59:31

Our strip is pretty rough in the winter but evenso, this model has been a pain. The last landing I had was a greaser, lovely and slow and yet off came the u/c, hence this thread.

Last night I made the two plates that secure the fixed end of the u/c, you will note a couple of points, that the slots are slightly staggered and that the edges of the slots are "case hardened" by the application of a drop of thin superglue.

The plates are made from 4mm birch ply which is exactly the diameter of the wire. Ordinarily I would choose 5mm wire but the scantlings of this model are minimal.


03/03/2019 15:49:07

I left it for a week or so so Bruce can retrieve his bottom lip from the floor devil.

Onwards, the fuselage doublers in way of the tank position are fretted out, so I made some filler pieces to, well, fill the fretted out bitsimg_0093.jpg

to get at these fretted holes I had to remove the tank, to do that I'd to remove the cowl, then 30 minute epoxy to secure them in place and some clamps to hold them there whilst the glue sets. As I said elsewhere I like to give the glue ample time to cure, so I'll continue tomorrow.img_0094.jpg

The next stage will be to cut out 4mm birch ply doublers with slots in to act as anchors for the bent end of the torsion bar u/c; the actual bars will sit next to one another in a fore and aft direction so the slots will have to be staggered. When those components are in and dried triangle section will be glued in to help support the flimsy formers, then a new 6mm plate cut and drilled to fit the aperture and then covered. Then the two wire legs will be fitted into their respective holes and the pair held down to the 6mm plate with either brass homemade or plastic shop bought clamps.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 03/03/2019 16:15:22

Thread: Death of a Fun-Fly.
28/02/2019 13:50:53
Posted by Nigel R on 26/02/2019 16:16:56:

Not particularly massive issues, but the relevant ones for us are.

Low charge behaviour is a bit "instant off".

Lifespan is lower than nimh, I believe.

Capacity per unit weight about the same as nimh, not a problem per se, but worth considering.

Lithium is generally physical fragility. Not a specific issue for us on well installed and nicely padded flight packs.

Need to be balanced when charging. Not a particular issue with the chargers that are around now.

Nigel, I'm sorry but if you really believe these are issues then I'm afraid you probably won't accept anything that is suggested to criticize your views.

Low charge behaviour is something that is shared with nimh, not in a big way and I've never reached that point with LiFe batteries as compared to nimh batteries basically because, capacity and voltage, life batteries are generally 60% of the weight of nimh. eg the last nimh I disposed of was 1100mAh and 9.6 V, the life that replaced it was 2100 mAh and 9.9 volts; this weighed approx 2/3 of the nimh. This was in my ff10 transmitter.

I use 2 cell life now and find that I can use 1100mAh for all my flying in an afternoon, my batteries are lighter than the 1100 4.8 nicads that they replaced (I used nicads in preference to eneloops because of the potential cliff edge drop off of the eneloops as they reach their safe low voltage level). If you choose to use 6v AAA 800mah nimh the lightest I could find were 62 grammes, my 1100 Life weigh 65 grammes, obviously AA nimh weigh more, typically 134 grammes for a 2000mAh eneloop, my 2500 2 cell life weigh 116 grammes.

I'm not sure what you are inferring regarding fragility, if your plane crashes and crushes the battery then it doesn't really matter what chemistry is involved, the battery is going to be scrap.

One issue you don't raise is the cheapness of life batteries, I just bought 8 life 1100 rx batteries from HK for 25 quid delivered, using the discount code I published on this site a few weeks back, the eneloops I mention above are reassuringly expensive, £12.95 and £16.95 each, respectively, though you can probably find cheaper, eg HK have 6 volt nimh low discharge at £7.13 and 148 grammes

I believe the balancing is a major plus point, my chargers will indicate if I've a problem at the charging stage not at the point of impact.

I suppose the one major issue is trust, I don't trust nimh, I do trust nicads and I've come to trust hk's zippy life batteries.

TBH, I wouldn't describe life cells as superior, it's just I trust them more than I trust nimh and I've converted completely to them. I also don't believe they have any "issues" over nixx chemistry, if any confirmation is required look at aerospace technology, electric car technology etc. Ni chemistry just doesn't figure anymore.

I also heard that the subscription base of the Flat Earth Society has diminished in recent yearswink.

Thread: Wot? Not a drone?
27/02/2019 19:32:28
Posted by Martin Harris on 27/02/2019 18:00:09:

As the miscreant was never tracked down, can we be sure that it was a paraglider either? All we know for sure is that at least one of the "credible witnesses" was dramatically wrong in their identification.

Miscreant eh,genepool would have been diluted if Flybe had hit him.

Thread: OS 46 FX
27/02/2019 19:22:38

Faint heart never wotsit fair maiden, ask Ripmax if they can fix it, I had a donkey's years old 10 fp and a 46 fx with duff liners, phoned up and they renewed both the liners and pistons for the cost of postage to them. Can't remember when but it was after production of both ceased.

It was a well known fault. Try e-mailing OS direct (it's free isn't it), if ripmax don't honour their responsibility, they just might do it.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 27/02/2019 19:24:11

Thread: Death of a Fun-Fly.
26/02/2019 15:55:52
Posted by Nigel R on 26/02/2019 14:18:17:

Jon, discharge at 1C, it will give a better idea of the internal resistance. Batteries of all sorts can still hold a good capacity but be a bit useless at holding up terminal voltage when it comes to pushing out the amps.

Although worth noting, at rates around 0.1C you should get 100% of marked capacity out of the discharge (or very close to).

"going over to LiFes which the general consensus deems to be superior"

LiFes have their own set of issues.

The low discharge nimhs are a solid, well developed technology.


Edited By Nigel R on 26/02/2019 14:20:51

What are their issues, Nigel?

26/02/2019 12:29:37

Couple of things, first up I dumped nimh years ago, bought some of the last nicads from overlander then, when they started declining, went to life batteries, have never had a battery problem since. This was for both rx and tx btw.

My seagull blade had a faulty switch and I've subsequently renewed all my old fashioned switches and replaced them with HD type, such a small cost really against the potential loss of a large amount by comparison.

Generally speaking two 1100 mAh life batteries are about the same weight as one 2000+ mAh Ni** chemistry battery and, tbh, I've never used more than 60% of the battery capacity in a long afternoon of flying. (one for spark and one for rx; in my nicad days I would recharge between flights but don't bother with the life cells)

One word of advice, the budget JR servos (591s ?) won't take more than 5 volts for a few minutes without letting the smoke out, futaba budget (148, 3001, 3003, 3004 fp 26 ? )seem to have no problem at all with life on load voltage. FWIW hitec servos have no problem either.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 26/02/2019 12:30:48

Edited By Braddock, VC on 26/02/2019 12:31:46

Thread: Six Nations 2019
23/02/2019 18:44:36

I love this version.

23/02/2019 14:25:51

Is that called putting the cat amongst the pigeons?devil

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