Here is a list of all the postings Braddock, VC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Six Nations 2019|
Max Boyce was asked how he thought the Welsh grand slam team of 1971 would fare against the current english squad, he replied we'd be lucky to get a draw.
The TV reporter was aghast, you mean you don't think they'd win? Max said come on be fair Barry john is nearly 80 and gareth edwards isn't much younger.
|Thread: Undercarriage Upgrade.|
I'll leave that for the moment as I'll have to get some scrap ply to make the mounts, should be back tomorrow or the next day after wales beat england.
All you need is a piece of wire of the correct diameter, I'm using 4mm diameter for my Blade, a vice, a hammer and a bench.
I don't know why that went blue like that?
I don't know about anyone else but I've been really peed off with undercarriages being pulled out when performing perfectly acceptable landings.
This occurs with artfs and kit built models, how many times have you seen a wot4 build and someone has said beef up the landing area with triangular wood/epoxy and fibreglass etc etc.
I'm not going to guarantee this method 100% but it has worked for me and it's really nearly as quick as gluing an undercarriage plate back on and doesn't require specialist wood or glues, in fact the only item I had to buy was a piece of piano wire of the correct diameter.
The undercarriage that has stood the test of time is the torsion bar type.
I bought a second hand Black Horse Blade artf that had already had problems so I'm going to show how I did the upgrade.
Paxolin and tufnol are variations on a theme, big thing is they can resist mechanical deterioration eg by vibration probably better than fibreglass board. I'd probably guess that tufnol is the more resistant of the two but that's just in a sledgehammer v nut scenario. I think they also preceded fibreglass board by several decades.
Interesting discussion here https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93688
FWIW SLECuk do a glass filled nylon (I think) engine plate in various sizes, it's possible to use self tappers to secure an engine like the 30 4 stroke.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 14/02/2019 00:37:44
|Thread: Doubler mistake|
|Thread: Film covering to repair "alumium" Mustang wing|
Get some balsaloc adhesive and try the film you have.
|Thread: Wot 4 Saito 62|
This is the same question that someone with the same nom de plume asked over on the other forum, I've answered it there with a picture of my installation of a saito 62 included.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 03/02/2019 15:33:09
|Thread: WOT 4 Servo Query|
I like digitals and I like corona, never had a problem with them. I have them in my old 1986 ish wot 4 as below. Cant remember how much they cost about a tenner each I think. I have them in half a dozen planes with up to OS120AX power but you are probably aware of the warning above that not all escs have hi power becs and that can screw you. All my planes bar one (and that's going to ic before the summer) have life batteries of at least 1100mAh capacity.
Currently I have 2 wot 4s on the go, one two stroke with all corona hv digital in (4 in all) and the one depicted below which has corona flat wing digital hv and Hitecs 422.
|Thread: What Sports Aerobatic for an ASP 70 Four Stroke?|
Take a look at the Kyosho Calmato Alpha 40 sport, built like the proverbial brick dunny, 40 size wouldn't be too overpowered with a 70 4s.
One shortcoming (?) is they are trike u/c.
I know you've kinda discounted it but the acrowot kit built model is a whole different ballgame to the artf one, much lighter and a 70 4s is the weapon of choice. You can also modify the kit with torsion bar u/c and kiss goodbye to u/c damage, unless you total it.
|Thread: Six Nations 2019|
In my view, the greatest step forward for wales was their ability to maintain pressure right to the final whistle, something they have often failed to manage in the past. France, also, were still up for it but individual stellar performances can show how matches can be turned around in the blink of an eye in the same way that individual mistakes can similarly affect outcomes.
|Thread: Batt, problem mobile drill|
Change the battery, i changed mine for a lipo opening the battery container to charge. What a difference the anaemic old drill is now a useful power tool. The only downside is that the motor heats up pdq (I think it's down to the brushes).
|Thread: Westonuk cracking value for money.|
I just got an 11x7 apc prop, two carb o rings and postage from them at zero cost to me!
(Based on the calculation that it would have cost me £13.50 in petrol to drive there and back which I didn't do - the actual cost was £10.40)
I probably saved a lot more by not going, eg buying a host of other things that I didn't really need.
|Thread: OS 25 FSR- Equivalent|
MDS got a well deserved poor reputation that was basically down to the importers not emphasising the fuel to use.
They shared one trait with MOKI 2 stroke glow engines and that was they thrived on straight castor fuel, no nitro just fai pylon fuel.
They also revved much higher than their contemporaries iirc. I had a few, a well used 48 that I had to sell as I found I became allergic to castor fumes and a 218 which was a monster.
I got the same as what I gave for them, £35 for the 48 and £?? for the 218 which was big bucks at the turn of the century.
Both were bought by fellow club members who were impressed by their performance.
Nitro was as common as rocking horse poo in the then soviet bloc and it and their synthetic lub oils were non existent there (to the average modeller) when the engines were developed.
Found out about the moki quite by accident, a 135 wasn't performing, overheating and deadsticking on 5% model technics (iirc) I gave the owner the 1/2 gallon of castor straight I had in the back of my car and he never looked back, gave me a new os F plug as a swap so I did alright out of that, too. That engine came from the soviet bloc, too.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 30/01/2019 13:01:40
|Thread: Weston Glow Fuel|
There's so much twaddle talked about westons fuel, I've used prosynth 10% from about 1994 to 2002 then I started buying liquid gold 15% and used it ever since. On average I use about 6 gallons annually, sometimes more, sometimes less.
One engine worth mentioning is a YS 45 2 stroke which I bought second hand in 1997, it's run exclusively on westons fuel since then.
When I bought it it had a minipipe on and had been around the world several times. On 15% fuel it is phenomenal. On a hangar 9 F-22 I fitted it with an 8 x10 apc prop and it turned around 18000 rpm, far too noisy so it flew regularly with a 9x8 at about 17000 rpm. Still too noisy though. It's next home is a wot 4 with a funfly prop so hopefully it'll be less noisy.
If I take the prop off I cannot turn the engine over compression by hand on the prop driver and it's still on the same set of bearings it came with. I've only changed the plug once.
I reckon I've put at least 40 - 50 hours on it whilst I've had it.
Now if you compare asp or their clones would you expect them to last that long anyway?
I also have an OS 52 4 stroke that I got second hand in the 90s and it still works fine, I don't think the tappets have ever needed adjustment.
So unless you can compare engines of a standard level of quality your not really comparing like for like as asp, sc etc seem to have have varying levels of quality.
Westons sell the magnum brand of engines which are clones of SC and ASP and they recommend their fuel for them whereas just engines don't for asp, why I wonder.
One other comment I'll make about the fuel, I can't ever remember having a piston ring stick whilst using engines brought out of layup as opposed to those engines that have a dose of castor in their fuel.
|Thread: OS 25 FSR- Equivalent|
I wouldn't bother buying Irvines, spares have dried up especially carb spares so unless you buy the complete carb you're up the creek.
I've just relegated 2 x 36 and 1 thirty nine to the spares bin for want of a couple of quid's worth of spares.
Fantastic engines though, must have been too much competition for OS and so they pulled the plug on them.
|Thread: Gangster 75 Build Blog|
I thought it may prove a substitute for the pipe insulation you used to stop your leads rattling, not everyone has that amount of space for large diameter tube.
A bit late with this info but may be worth looking here - https://www.nrshealthcare.co.uk/eating-drinking-aids/cutlery-aids/plastazote-tubing-1metre?fee=19&fep=48442&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9-Dx75GQ4AIVWeh3Ch27xQKUEAQYAyABEgLyZ_D_BwE#228=407742
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!