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Member postings for Braddock, VC

Here is a list of all the postings Braddock, VC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: WOT 4 Servo Query
03/02/2019 09:34:09

Currently I have 2 wot 4s on the go, one two stroke with all corona hv digital in (4 in all) and the one depicted below which has corona flat wing digital hv and Hitecs 422.


Thread: What Sports Aerobatic for an ASP 70 Four Stroke?
02/02/2019 12:18:14

Take a look at the Kyosho Calmato Alpha 40 sport, built like the proverbial brick dunny, 40 size wouldn't be too overpowered with a 70 4s.

One shortcoming (?) is they are trike u/c.

I know you've kinda discounted it but the acrowot kit built model is a whole different ballgame to the artf one, much lighter and a 70 4s is the weapon of choice. You can also modify the kit with torsion bar u/c and kiss goodbye to u/c damage, unless you total it.

Thread: Six Nations 2019
02/02/2019 09:19:33

In my view, the greatest step forward for wales was their ability to maintain pressure right to the final whistle, something they have often failed to manage in the past. France, also, were still up for it but individual stellar performances can show how matches can be turned around in the blink of an eye in the same way that individual mistakes can similarly affect outcomes.

Thread: Batt, problem mobile drill
31/01/2019 22:29:31

Change the battery, i changed mine for a lipo opening the battery container to charge. What a difference the anaemic old drill is now a useful power tool. The only downside is that the motor heats up pdq (I think it's down to the brushes).

Thread: Westonuk cracking value for money.
30/01/2019 13:15:12

I just got an 11x7 apc prop, two carb o rings and postage from them at zero cost to me!

(Based on the calculation that it would have cost me £13.50 in petrol to drive there and back which I didn't do - the actual cost was £10.40)

I probably saved a lot more by not going, eg buying a host of other things that I didn't really need.

Thread: OS 25 FSR- Equivalent
30/01/2019 12:36:28

MDS got a well deserved poor reputation that was basically down to the importers not emphasising the fuel to use.

They shared one trait with MOKI 2 stroke glow engines and that was they thrived on straight castor fuel, no nitro just fai pylon fuel.

They also revved much higher than their contemporaries iirc. I had a few, a well used 48 that I had to sell as I found I became allergic to castor fumes and a 218 which was a monster.

I got the same as what I gave for them, £35 for the 48 and £?? for the 218 which was big bucks at the turn of the century.

Both were bought by fellow club members who were impressed by their performance.

Nitro was as common as rocking horse poo in the then soviet bloc and it and their synthetic lub oils were non existent there (to the average modeller) when the engines were developed.

Found out about the moki quite by accident, a 135 wasn't performing, overheating and deadsticking on 5% model technics (iirc) I gave the owner the 1/2 gallon of castor straight I had in the back of my car and he never looked back, gave me a new os F plug as a swap so I did alright out of that, too. That engine came from the soviet bloc, too.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 30/01/2019 13:01:40

Thread: Weston Glow Fuel
28/01/2019 13:14:39

There's so much twaddle talked about westons fuel, I've used prosynth 10% from about 1994 to 2002 then I started buying liquid gold 15% and used it ever since. On average I use about 6 gallons annually, sometimes more, sometimes less.

One engine worth mentioning is a YS 45 2 stroke which I bought second hand in 1997, it's run exclusively on westons fuel since then.

When I bought it it had a minipipe on and had been around the world several times. On 15% fuel it is phenomenal. On a hangar 9 F-22 I fitted it with an 8 x10 apc prop and it turned around 18000 rpm, far too noisy so it flew regularly with a 9x8 at about 17000 rpm. Still too noisy though. It's next home is a wot 4 with a funfly prop so hopefully it'll be less noisy.

If I take the prop off I cannot turn the engine over compression by hand on the prop driver and it's still on the same set of bearings it came with. I've only changed the plug once.

I reckon I've put at least 40 - 50 hours on it whilst I've had it.

Now if you compare asp or their clones would you expect them to last that long anyway?

I also have an OS 52 4 stroke that I got second hand in the 90s and it still works fine, I don't think the tappets have ever needed adjustment.

So unless you can compare engines of a standard level of quality your not really comparing like for like as asp, sc etc seem to have have varying levels of quality.

Westons sell the magnum brand of engines which are clones of SC and ASP and they recommend their fuel for them whereas just engines don't for asp, why I wonder.

One other comment I'll make about the fuel, I can't ever remember having a piston ring stick whilst using engines brought out of layup as opposed to those engines that have a dose of castor in their fuel.

Thread: OS 25 FSR- Equivalent
28/01/2019 12:45:11

I wouldn't bother buying Irvines, spares have dried up especially carb spares so unless you buy the complete carb you're up the creek.

I've just relegated 2 x 36 and 1 thirty nine to the spares bin for want of a couple of quid's worth of spares.

Fantastic engines though, must have been too much competition for OS and so they pulled the plug on them.

Thread: Gangster 75 Build Blog
28/01/2019 11:52:21

I thought it may prove a substitute for the pipe insulation you used to stop your leads rattling, not everyone has that amount of space for large diameter tube.

28/01/2019 09:19:56

A bit late with this info but may be worth looking here -

Thread: Repairs to a Black Horse Blade.
27/01/2019 00:22:38

Yes I am looking forward to flying it.

As I mentioned above, I have a 3 axis receiver installed and, hopefully, I'm going to make use of it to ascertain if this model will take on cross winds etc.

Graham, you'll love the D7, I have one with damaged interplane struts that I've been promising myself I'll repair since about 2009, I have 3 more planes to fettle, my Junior 60 which is destined for SAM35 pylon racing and now just needs recovering, a sig 1/5 scale clipped wing cub that needs the cabin beefing up and a 1/4 scale cw cub that needs recovering and some new wood then it'll be the D7.

I fitted a laser 80 in my d7, it'll actually knife edge and doesn't seem too bothered by the wind if my memory serves me well.

26/01/2019 17:09:04

Did a bit of chicken counting before they got hatched there, not only was the wire at fault but the in socket to the switch had seen better days, old switch dumped and new one fitted. Ho Hum.

Weather looks horrid tomorrow, so it won't be flying for some time now.

All in all I'm pleased I actually got the plane down in a repairable state, normally I give up the ghost with second hand artfs but I like this one.

Edited By Braddock, VC on 26/01/2019 17:12:27

26/01/2019 16:43:54

Ten minutes later, all soldered up and three layers of shrink tube applied.


Just a pic to show my method of twisting the wire then soldering it.


26/01/2019 16:41:19

Sorry to bore all you out there in webland, finishing off the blade today and checking the throttle throws when the servos went haywire.

Had to cut a bit of a former out to get the switch out as I noticed some insulation tape wrapped around one of the leads.

Here's what was under the tape


Thread: PVA and Balsa sawdust.
25/01/2019 16:11:38

When it comes to filling cracks etc that can't be ironed out as I previously observed, I just use ordinary plaster or fine filler, I know it's much heavier than the Lite version it's also significantly cheaper, sands easy and really sticks well.

I don't use much of it and on my usual 4 - 5 pounds in weight models the amount is insignificant. Obviously on a small, rubber powered model it's not especially good unless needed up front as ballast.

So, no I don't clart around with sawdust and pva.

Thread: Repairs to a Black Horse Blade.
25/01/2019 14:58:58

As can be seen in the pic above I shaped a piece of 6mm marine ply and installed it into the original slots with gorilla glue pu glue, I'll let this dry for 24 hours then reinforce with some triangle section then drill the holes for the bolts.

FWIW the rx has performed faultlessly in another model since the problem so I can only assume the wing unravelled itself (for want of a better word) in flight.

IIRC this occurred shortly after an outside loop.

Caveat emptor!

25/01/2019 14:54:21


25/01/2019 14:46:01

Bought a used airframe from a local modeller, ready to fly except for a receiver, it was said to have an eneloop battery installed but, when I looked, it was a futaba nicad,

I only use 2 cell life batteries nowadays so it wasn't a big issue.

It came with a 46 Ax so I was well pleased.

I installed my 1100mAh life battery and orange 3axis faast receiver and had 3 or 4 flights with it.

Second time I took it flying, after ensuring the gyro was switched off, took off and for a few minutes everything is good then, suddenly, the model started gyrating all over the place. At first I thought I'd switched the gyro on but I hadn't.

I managed to get it down in the long grass where the plastic bolts holding the u/c on sheared and it looked like the wing snapped right in the centre. Popped it in my storage and I've just come back to it after a month to sort the repairs.

One of the wing retaining bolts torn out and the retaining plate pulled out of the fuse.

I was amazed to find that the wings weren't securely glued together at the root, should be a pic nearby showing the level of glue, the only place where it was holding toimg_0002.jpggether was the front lug that fits into a slot in the fuse.

You can see where the glue had been touching.

The trailing edge in way of the wing retaining bolt was of the extremely soft balsa and in many pieces.

I cut around the broken bits and shaped a piece of hard trailing edge stock as a filler then glued those in. I have yet to sand these and coat with balsa loc before sticking the film back down.




Edited By Braddock, VC on 25/01/2019 15:02:51

Thread: Model vs Trees
24/01/2019 20:56:16

Paul, probably the engine out of balance, it's only got one prop blade...........devil

Thread: PVA and Balsa sawdust.
24/01/2019 20:49:11
Posted by FlyinBrian on 24/01/2019 18:17:50:

As an aside

small dings and dents in balsa can be filled by sanding with fine sane paper around the area then apply a drop of cyano to the ding and sand again making sure you get the sanding dust into the ding, it may need a couple of goes but the result is almost invisible.

Soak the affected area in water, use your covering iron up high or your heat gun and the dent will magically disappear, as long as the grain isn't torn.

I use this method on dents in my gun butts and thought if it'll work on walnut should work on balsa.

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