Here is a list of all the postings Braddock, VC has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Xtrawot refurb|
TBH, a flat twin 120 4 stroke would be marginal in the power department, to say the least.
I had 2, one flew extremely well on an NGH 25 petrol and even better on a turnigy 26S petrol which was about 8 ounces lighter.
The other flew ok on an OS 120 surpass pumped.
Remember weight is your enemy on foss's planes.
Watching your thread with interest as I'd like to refurb one of mine.
|Thread: Acrowot with laser 80|
I'd forgotten about the isport, trouble is I can't remember if I had a laser 70 or laser 80 installed in it. Lovely flier though and about the only plane in my living memory that I can say lost due to radio, fault in my futaba 10 tx, now scrapped.
I bought my isport from the now defunct ashford model supplies as a second hand airframe complete with servos, best bargain of my life, too.
Personally I think you'd be better off with the 55 AX, the laser is much heavier and that weight is going to be even further forward than the 2 stroke (fwiw 55 ax with silencer is about 520 grammes, laser 80 with silencer 719 gm, at least mine is.), this forward weight will probably need ballast at the rear to balance.
I'm always of the opinion that lighter planes fly better and land slower, a point you need to consider given the usual fragility of the u/c mounting on artf (and on the chris foss artb kit one as well)
I have a laser 80 and the only plane it was really at home in was a flair fokker D7 where the weight precluded any additional ballast.
Just a personal opinion.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 18/01/2019 20:51:26
|Thread: OS 25 FSR- Equivalent|
I have an OS 25 F which is the ABC version of the 25 fsr, I've only run it less than an hour, first with the original silencer on and then with a TT 42 GP silencer fitted which really quietened it down and also let it rev better (the manifold bolt holes have the same pcd). It flew a seagull jumper as if it were made for it but I replaced it with another engine and stored it.
I was going to fit it in a downsized wot4 but it's not going to happen. If you want to buy it, send me a pm and I'm sure we can reach an amicable arrangement.
|Thread: Reserve Model engine choice for the Coupe Des Barons Competition.|
SAM 35 spec is for 35 two stroke plain bearing engines so the hot rod 35 ballraced schnuerle engines are not permitted.
There was also a spec for electrics in which I have no interest and I can't remember what it was, knowing sam 35 it'll probably be for brushed motors and nicads to level the playing field.
I've got a s/h os 35 fp coming but it's probably a waste of money as my recollection of J60s is more power = rapid height gain and no increase in forward velocity, it'll probably have to fly with full down elevator.
FWIW I built several svenson viscomptes and thought they were overpowered with an irvine 20 diesel converted to glow, christ a 52 4 stroke in same is mind boggling.
|Thread: model recommendation|
Take a look at https://www.cambrianplanes.co.uk/ourshop/cat_912071-Complete-Kit-range.html
You will see they make 3 55" span war birds. The spitfire has a reputation of being easy to fly after being quick to build, it may also scratch your itch and cure the craving.
The smaller fun fighters all work well but, if you use a lot of sky whilst flying, you'll need excellent eyesight.
|Thread: In your late 60s or early 70s?|
Then this may interest you.
|Thread: Reworking Ultimate|
I got that from my other half as well, Bobby though I'm but a slip of a lad of 74; especially after a recent episode of 24 hours in A&E.
|Thread: Gatwick drone incident|
I think they should be afforded the same status as shotguns, ie need a police permit and medical clearance to operate and the punishment should mirror that meted out to perps who use imitation firearms in pursuit of their criminal activities.
There's just no place in society for someone to be able to illegally influence the legitimate activities of 100s of people in the way it's been done this week.
But first you gotta catch them haven't you.
|Thread: Heated Gloves|
Have you tried https://srukshop.co.uk/12-silver-gloves-for-cold-hands/
When I was younger used to do a lot of wildfowling which tends to rely on poor conditions to promote the contents of one's game bag, two tips the first was from an old lincolnshire fowler, the second is one I discovered for myself.
To keep your hands warm, on the way to do your chosen activity find some ground water, if it's got ice on so much the better, dip your hands in and wet them thoroughly then let them air dry. Don't knock it til you've tried it. You won't need gloves if your circulation is up to par.
To keep your feet warm, spray them with antiperspirant before putting your socks on, when walking the feet perspire then when stationary the sweat evaporates and causes cold feet. The antiperspirant prevents that. DON'T spray it all over your body, I did once and with a three mile walk over mudflats with a large gun and a 100 cartridges my body overheated to the point where my face was purple and my friend thought I was having a cardiac arrest.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 22/11/2018 11:04:48
|Thread: Blackhorse Hurricane 46|
Hope the post adequately explains what I've done, my Horlicks is kicking in now so I'll check again for typos in the morning, already found a couple, my bad.
I tried fitting my laser 80 in the plane but it was too awkward with all the bits behind the cylinder head fouling the firewall so the 82 was popped in, just as well too, it balanced correctly with that engine which is almost a couple of hundred grammes lighter than the laser 80.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 22/11/2018 01:47:03
Two of the things that concerned me were the electric retracts and the glodriver.
What I did was use a second rx with just the glodriver and the retracts fitted to it with its own battery. There is no manual switch so I used a petrol engine transmitter control isolating switch plugged into channel 7 on the main transmitter plugged the retracts into ch 5 of the slave rx and the glodriver into channel 7 of the slave rx.
When the airborne radio is switched on I switch channel 7 on and the iso switch allows power from the slave battery into the slave rx, simultaneously the glodriver is switched on as it, too, is on channel 7. The gear is separately switched on ch 5 to pop it up or down. The first pic shows the position of the switch that actually allows power to the glodriver which has to be depressed manually, it cuts out automatically after about 20 secs. The second pic shows where I have installed a soft 3mm balsa shelf and held both receivers on with velcro, the battery ditto. Cables are kept out of the way by holding them on the battery with velcro. The bulk of the cables are tucked up under the shelf, rx1 battery is alongside the tank. I have a 1.0Ah for the rx1 and a 1.1 Ah battery for the slave rx, both batteries are 2 cell LiFe.Somewhere along the line I got a typo in my previous post, should read 7 pounds dead.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 22/11/2018 01:36:52
Edited By Braddock, VC on 22/11/2018 01:38:16
I've just acquired one of these and completed last night.
I don't trust the method of retaining the control horns in their respective surfaces so have used bolt through control horns on all the surfaces complete with bbs, changed the wire pushrods in the kit for 16swg piano wire with metal adaptors soldered to them.
I'm using an old saito 82 with an apc 14x6 prop and surprisingly the cg came out spot on though I am using two batteries, one for the rx and flight controls the other with another rx for the retracts and on board glow driver.
The servo leads make a right rat's nest of the interior ; if it survives the maiden I'll change it over to an s-bus installation to do away with multiple servo leads floating round in the fuselage.
Mine comes out at 6 lbs dead when dry.
Just awaiting the right day to maiden it.
|Thread: Ruhig Tigre Build Blog|
PV, It's better on the model than in a box under the work bench I guess. There was a balsa one that stevo made but the engine wouldn't fit in there without a great deal of butchery.
I fitted a pilot, wish I hadn't , he's done nothing but moan about the visibility out the office so I mounted him off centre which shut him up for a bit. Now he thinks the plane looks lopsided and when am I going to fit a windscreen.
The windscreen is in the pipeline as are some decals.
I mislaid my adaptor for my airbrush so the decals are going to be vinyl ho hum.
Given up on the lopsided-ness
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Will an old laser hundred fly a 12lb plane, 2 metres span and slow to boot?
|Thread: Ruhig Tigre Build Blog|
FWIW its all up weight, dry, is 5.5 Kg or 12 lb 2 oz near enough.
Edited By Braddock, VC on 12/10/2018 20:59:43
Edited By Braddock, VC on 12/10/2018 20:56:05
PV, on the strength of one 10 min flight, it's right up my street.
I conservatively estimated the cg at 27% but judging by the amount of uptrim it needed I suspect it'll have to go back some, I'll try 32% after I've done that 45 degree power off dive to see if it tucks under or not.
I'm back up the field today to check this out.
TBH I was surprised it came out tail heavy as the engine/ignition/silencer comes out at nearly 1.3 Kg. I have 2 off 2.5 Ah LiFe batteries at the rear of the wing opening and this could have contributed. I had thought about mounting the servos at the rear, I'm so glad I didn't now.
Reading back through the build you'll probably note that Stevo installed tubes to give the tail feathers pull/pull actuation, therefore each surface has its own horn. I bought those HK 4mm screwed bar with stand-offs and obviously there are three of them, now the surfaces are set I can crop the excess 4mm bar off, of which there is about 100 mm, all told that must weigh nearly 30 gm so with that removed I may be able to take off some of the 180 grammes of weights stuck to the engine mounts, also the BT Hurricane g/f cowl weighs in at 75 grammes so that and the fittings will probably account for the rest.
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