Here is a list of all the postings Nigel Dell has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: information wanted|
2.5kg pull is fine Jack I think that is the specs of the JR’s the only thing I will say is on the tail I used ball links and have no slop at all, the other controls are good too but it was recommended to me and I would definitely go that way.
I can do a drawing on the servo mounts in the tail if it is of use to give you an idea for your own install as you can’t see it too well.
It is worth the effort, the battery mount in the nose, the instructions say glue in a piece of 1/4” square spruce down the centre of the fuz bottom and glue the battery tray to it, I used 1/16” ply laminated carbon either side of it (I was going through a phase!😅 I did epoxy the tray to the spruce but ran a bead of silicon adhesive down either side of the tray so there was a flexible joint I did use small screws down the centreline into the spruce to make absolutely sure nothing could move as I was/am using 3300mah batteries, with the long moment arm it was better using usable weight to balance than lead, in fact I cannot remember using any lead to balance at all, I just moved the battery, weight I can’t remember but I think it is nearer 3lbs but as I say I use larger cells, I changed to a 2200mah 4S from 3300mah 3S with no change in cg.
Enjoy practise safe non virus modelling😷
Sorry they are out of order but you can get the drift, stay safe.
The instructions, when I can find them, do not give a lot away!🙄 apart from CG and throws, There were about 3 pictures of the install which required the servos to be glued in, so being someone who likes things removable for service or dud I made up my own way of doing it.
the tail halves can be taped on but again I was not impressed with that idea although perfectly workable and I do make a habit of making things more difficult than they could be!
I drilled and tapped a hole in each half through the fuz for an M3 stud, I cut the head off a bolt basically and screwed into each tail half with a sob of epoxy rather than cyano, fumes make the film cloudy on the inside! Then retained each half with a nylon nut, you can use an M2 stud and metal nut but the smallest nylon nut I had was an M3.
I checked the servos on the tail this morning and I used JR 371’s, also used those on the ailerons with either Hitec 81 mg’s on the flaps or metal geared JR 331 can’t remember either are ok though and these may not be available now as this was something like 2006.
The motor in mine is a MVVS 4.6/1120 sport I first used it on 3S but have now gone to 4S, it was ok and steady on 3S but a little more sprightly now, this is a 700w motor can’t remember the figures at the moment but this not a slow thermal model, it does like to move!
I will have to look them out, I am sure I had them when I converted it over to 2.4g just remembering what pile they are in!😳🤪🤣
is this the one you mean?
It came as either a glider or electric, the electric fuz is cut off for the motor mount and also wider to accommodate the batteries.
Also has a carbon moulded hatch under the tail for the servo mounts unlike the glider version, I have the instructions some where, but if you would like some more detailed install pictures I will dig it out and take some for you.
A nice flying model, Frankenmodellbau were an importer and didn’t actually make them, not too sure but I think NaN was the manufacturer but this was a long time ago I know NaN made the Mamba also supplied by Franken.
It is a 2m model they did also make a larger one at 3.4m IIRC.
If you need anymore please let me know.
|Thread: GooseV2, new lasercut kit build video series.|
A really great project Bart👍🏻 Love the Goose an impressive plane, I appreciate the amount of work you have put into it and particularly like the planking solution. Masterly!👍🏻
|Thread: Any ideas what it is?|
Nice engine Bob, I have a couple, the tank came as an all aluminium affair but you could buy the clear plastic replacement as I think you have there, a lot easier to use in freeflight models with a clear tank, they are a beautifully made piece of man jewellery!👍🏻
|Thread: Merco Engines|
I think you did that yourself!🤭😂
You can’t find anything because I think you will find it is a Super Tigre engine not a Merco unfortunately, although good in their own right you should find something under ST.
I concur have done it this way with success, sometimes just a few seconds of the soldering iron without the freezing works fine, is it a metal geared servo?
You can afford a little more time with the heat, also a small point but using a pointed bit seems to work easier than a flat blade bit but only in minimising the damage done to the horn for me.
|Thread: Poorly OS40 repair|
I think Jon it’s what you are comfortable doing otherwise you are making it more stressful, at the end of the day it is the imparting of information that is the important thing.
I will second a movie Jon, always interesting seeing this.
|Thread: RCME free plan 'Gamine'|
Nice that Paul, very nice👍🏻
Is that the material you got from eBay by any chance?
I got some in various colours but have not had a chance to use it yet.
|Thread: Sopwith Camel, Tony Ray Models.|
And very well packed it was too Steve, always have had excellent service from the A team!👍🏻
I will keep you posted on the builds, Tony is obviously talented judging by first impressions of these kits and is deserving of your support, nice to see new blood in this game!
Edited By Nigel Dell on 06/02/2020 08:04:17
you could try Mike, he covers most radios and gives an excellent service.
|Thread: Sopwith Camel, Tony Ray Models.|
Thanks for the messages and info, the kits arrived today due the usual SWM excellent service and Royal Mail of course.
These really are excellent little kits, the cutting is superb, I am going to have to raid my stash of Esaki tissue for these babies.
I am going to try and make a start in the next few days.
Thanks Colin for posting this here and thanks Steve for highlighting the distributor status.
I had seen the Tony Ray kits on eBay and was taking a closer look but other projects got in the way as they always do with me, this has reminded me to have a look and this morning have pulled the trigger on the DH 53 and Eindecker, I did agonise for the Taube and 504 but let’s get these done first!
|Thread: OS FSR engines|
It was bad with the FX but not started with that model by any stretch, I had a friend that went through liners in his ‘Hanno’ 61’s when competing in F3a with frightening regularity, he eventually found someone who could re-chrome, using chrome, his old liners and lap the pistons and this cured the problem.
He put me onto the idea of sorting the 40 which I never did as I had moved on by then but I was not alone with the problem with the FSR and that was from the guy who repaired my 40 at Irvine.
As Robin says if it ain’t broke! ....
I bought both the 40 FSR and 40 FSR ABC back in the day, still got them! The ringed 40 has done many hours and though still giving good service, I treated it to a clean, new bearings and a new ring! It runs sweet and is stored away until I finish the new airframe for it.
The ABC however is the polar opposite, I had installed it in a Graphic 40, I had run it as per instructions and after 2 hours running it was not happy, the first time I had come across the problem of Nikasil flaking off the liner that OS went through, the piston and liner were replaced and it did another couple of hours running but I never really trusted it after that although it is still in fine fettle managing to retain its nikasil this time, it too is stored so I might use it but will be looking into getting the old liner re-chromed as a more hardy replacement in case it wants to snack on its liner surface again!
Still very good engines though, one of my favourites.
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