Here is a list of all the postings Steve Hargreaves - Moderator has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: SOLDERING TIPS|
Like Piers I haven't soldered any XT30s but lots of XT60s.
I recently soldered some wires to an XT60 connector without tinning either & was amazed at how much easier it was & how good the result. As many have noted it's very easy to add to much solder & make a mess when the solder overflows.
A useful tip is to join a plug & socket together before soldering. This is so that, in the event of the contact getting a little too hot & softening the surrounding plastic the mating half will hold the contacts in the right place whilst the plastic cools.
So my method....hold both the connector & the wire together using a pair of "helping hands" or similar; the XT connectors are nicely dished so make sure the wire sits snugly in the dish. Apply heat from a reasonably large soldering iron (40 Watt plus IMHO) with a well tinned tip. Apply the solder & let it flow around the wire & the contact. Remove heat & allow to cool. Insulate with heatshrink tubing (probably best to slip this over the wire before soldering....) Job done...
Now many might say that this is a bad method & that everything must be tinned first & I would have nodded vigorously in support but having soldered them without any tinning all I would say is try it yourself.....you might be pleasantly surprised.
Just another quick thought too.....be VERY careful when soldering connectors to the battery leads....you are in great danger of short circuiting the battery when doing this....the flash & spark that can result are impressive but I don'r recommend it. And no, I'd rather you didn't ask how I know this..........so be sure to only strip one wire at a time...solder & insulate it thoroughly & then do the second wire.
Like much in modelling....it's a skill....the more you do the better you get so get a few connectors & some wire & get practicing....
|Thread: Uploading pics. to album|
Hi FB3....I can emulate you & see your albums no problem at all....there appears to be no screenshot in there though. I suspect the screenshot is not in jpeg format...you may have to open it in a photo editor & save it as a jpeg before you can upload it.
I do know that pics taken on Apple devices can cause problems as they are optimised for viewing on Apple products & often contain a bit of code telling the device which way up they are etc. this code is meaningless to a non-Apple device, hence the problems.
If you save the pics you want to upload as jpegs they should transfer to your Albums no problem at all...
Let me know if I can help further....
|Thread: another newbie.|
Welcome to the forum Derek....
|Thread: Trimming Question after Crash :-(|
Frank, was that the red & white Goodrich one....about 60" span...like this
I had one too & you're right it had a really vicious streak. Lovely looking model but you always felt it had one malevolent eye on you waiting to drop your guard & get a bit careless with the elevator.
Much as I liked mine it was almost a relief when it crashed....
Chris the best way to post pictures is to upload then to your Albums on the site & link to them there.
|Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread|
@Andy Symons....can you just clarify that statement please. I understood we would ALL need a Flyer ID number & this number would have to appear on the model somewhere.
Point 6 of the statement from Dave Phipps on the 23/10 said...
Members who ‘opt in’ will receive an email from the CAA with their ‘Flyer ID’ once their data is uploaded. (Should a member be asked to provide proof of registration before receiving their Flyer ID the BMFA office will provide evidence of compliance.)
That reads to me as though all model flyers will need a Flyer ID
Have I missed something?
|Thread: Trimming Question after Crash :-(|
Hi Christopher & welcome to the forum.....
I'm not a "glider guider" so my experiences will be of little use but I wonder if you might have simply had too much movement & induced a high speed stall thus making the model flick into a spin. I had a YAK 54 (RIP) which was very prone to this.....too much elevator & Whoa...you'd best be 3 mistakes high or it was curtains (one day it did it & was only one & a half mistakes high & ran out of altitude, airspeed & idea all at the same time hence the RIP).
The flicking out of loops tends to support this theory too IMHO.
It may be that the model is one that prefers smooth high energy aerobatics using smaller control surface deflections rather than being forced through tight turns/loops etc. using a lot of control surface movement....
But as I say I'm not a glider man so hopefully someone who is will be along soon to set us on the right path...
|Thread: Charge rate ???|
Does the 2.00 refer to the multiples of the C rating I wonder meaning you can charge it at 2C or 12A?
LiPos in my experience will take a 1C charge (ie 6A) with no problem at all with more recent ones accepting 2C (12A) & even 5C (30A) charge rates.
What make is the LiPo? What sort of discharge rate can it cope with? LiPos used in EDF tend to offer very high discharge rates of 40C, 50C, 60C or even higher.
Personally I can't see a 6A charge doing any harm at all...
|Thread: Maricardo build|
Hi Tim & welcome to the forum....
Putting "Maricardo" into the search box brings up over a dozen threads concerning the Maricardo so may a quick look through these will help....
|Thread: Lidl XL Glider|
Could the motor from the quad be a brushed dc motor hence just two wires?
You can still buy small brushed ESCs.....maybe this one?
|Thread: Looking for a trainer kit|
+1 for a Wot 4....suspect you will get bored of a Trainer very quickly....
|Thread: The component shop|
+1 from me too....great product range, great prices & great service....what's not to like....
|Thread: Selling scam?|
Caveat emptor.....or seller beware in this case but my Latin doesn't extend that far.....
Where these is evidence of wrongdoing the Modelflying team will always take action but please contact us directly & ask us to investigate. We may not see a thread like this & hence be unaware of the problem.
As far as this case goes there is no evidence of that particular email being registered on this site hence what we can do is limited. As a public site clearly anyone could see your advert & contact you directly using the information given. They would not need to be a member of Modelflying to do this.
|Thread: Another noob!|
Welcome to the Forum Robin....& welcome to your new...old hobby...
You'll find a lot of changes have occurred in the last 40 years.....
|Thread: New on Site|
Welcome to the Forum Nitro Flyer...
@ Steven Shaw....I suspect that isn't a link NF has posted...the site has picked up the @ symbol & thinks it's an email address...
|Thread: RCM&E 2019 Fly-In - pics etc,,|
& in flight....
Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 14/09/2019 18:15:34
TNs Harrier takes to the skies...
|Thread: System hook ups|
You could do worse than check the Electric Flight For Beginners section on this very Forum.....there are lots of guides to the various components.
The best way is to read a bit...ask questions...read some more...ask more questions.....it really will start to come together for you.
Welcome back to the hobby & to the RCM&E Forum...
|Thread: Charge amps query|
If you have a multimeter pop it across the terminals of the battery....Anything over 12.5V is in a good state of charge....Max voltage you would see would be around 12.6V or so.
12V or under is completely flat....
|Thread: Cyclon 2v cells|
I had 5Ah version for many years...only seemed to charge it once every blue moon. When it eventually died I replaced it with the 2.5Ah version.....it doesn't seem to last much more than a session or two.
IMHO the 5Ah version is worth the extra....
|Thread: Mill 75 electric set up|
There was some discussion around the power of a Mills in this thread Richard which might be useful **LINK**
If it helps I have an electric powered Mini Tyro which is the sort of model a Mill 0.75 might have been used in & that flies very nicely on max 60W.....I did initially have about 100W in there & it really wasn't pleasant to fly...the torque of the electric motor made it want to roll every time I opened the throttle. Torque a theoretical concept where a Mills 0.75 is concerned however so I'd venture to suggest somewhere around the 50-60W mark would be about right....
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