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Member postings for Steve Hargreaves - Moderator

Here is a list of all the postings Steve Hargreaves - Moderator has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: KK Spectre?
02/04/2020 17:25:08

Hi Terry & welcome to the forum....

Is it a full depth spar? Could it be that both the ribs & the spars are slotted & interlock....?

If the spar is slotted at the top & the rib slotted at the bottom the rib will slide over & into the spar whilst the spar slides over & into the rib. This creates a very solid joint

Thread: Flap / down elevator mix
02/04/2020 15:18:00

Surely the pitch up/pitch down with flaps is dependant on the wing position...?

With a high wing the flaps create extra drag above the CoG thus pitching the nose up.....

With a low wing the flaps create drag below the CoG thus pitching the nose down....

Thread: Old Model for old modeller
01/04/2020 16:13:08

There are a few older threads about the T180 including posts from a few people who have kits/plans.....

Pop T180 in the search box....thumbs up

Thread: Advice on motors
25/03/2020 09:48:11

Hi Al....I wonder if you are approaching this from slightly the wrong angle.....rather than look for an "equivalent to" electric motor maybe look at what benefits an electric motor could bring to the model. Electric motors produce their power in a completely different way to IC engines so it makes sense to try & harness some of those benefits.

A 40/50 sized glow engine will produce around 1 BHP whilst turning an 11x6 say at around 11,000 rpm (rough figures for illustrative purposes). For sure there are electric motors that will do exactly the same but is this what you want? Why not go for a larger, more scale sized prop....a three bladed prop even...there will be an electric motor that will do that too whilst still producing "the power of a 40 sized IC engine"

Remember that an electric power train needs to be considered as a whole taking into account the battery (number of cells, capacity, physical size etc.). No good finding a great motor if you then have to compromise on the battery size to get it to fit.

In a nutshell then what I am saying is don't just just look to swap like for like but consider how to power the model from scratch & perhaps do a bit of reading around the subject of electric power to understand the benefits (& indeed pitfalls) of using electrons instead of glow fuel to power your model.

Good luck....

Thread: IC Engine Bearings...
21/03/2020 22:44:48

No need for comments like that Stephen......

Play nicely or don't play at all.....

Thread: Engine Failures
20/03/2020 16:20:29

Chaps, this discussion has strayed away from the original OP but is very interesting nonetheless. I am minded to start a new topic on Engine Bearings & move all the relevant threads over there thus leaving this thread for Engine Failures only....

The discussion on Engine Bearings has moved over to here **LINK**

If we can try & keep this thread for tales of mangled motors & exploding engines...wink 2

Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 20/03/2020 19:58:17

Thread: IC Engine Bearings...
20/03/2020 16:14:25

Do we need to more carefully define "thrust" perhaps?

Our natural inclination is to think of the "thrust" produced by the prop but "thrust" in a bearing sense would be through the bearing from the inner to the outer race would it not? Effectively at 90 degrees to the central axis of the crankshaft.

Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 20/03/2020 19:50:13

20/03/2020 11:20:26

So effectively the crank is held tightly to the front race by virtue of the inner race of the bearing being clamped between the step on the crankshaft & the collet holding the prop driver?

Think I'll stick to Electrical seems easier than Mechanical Engineering....teeth 2

Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 20/03/2020 19:47:18

Thread: Engine Failures
18/03/2020 18:43:32

I like to think I "know about" engines so my failures are few & far between. My last one was an ASP90 FS that stopped mid climb & would only turn half a turn or so when recovered.

Turned out the crank pin had sheared off....dont know



Some "new parts" (crankshaft, con-rod & bearings) were obtained & fitted & the engine has been fine since.

Fuel used was Southern Modelcraft Mo-Glow 5% which is 15% synthetic & (whisper it) 2% castor oil

Thread: Probable scam?
02/03/2020 22:18:28

BT Phones featuring Call Guardian are well worth a look to keep the scammers away. Since we bought ours we've not had one get through.

Highly recommended.....thumbs up

Thread: Missing bits HELP
01/03/2020 00:32:44

LOL...If only Jim....if only....teeth 2

Thread: spectrum updates via Mac
28/02/2020 07:55:31

Welcome to the Forum John....thumbs up

As I have neither a Mac nor a Spektrum radio I cannot offer any assistance I'm afraid....

Hopefully someone will be along shortly who can help...

Thread: Missing bits HELP
28/02/2020 07:51:54

Or cut one from dural as I did for my Mini Super....thumbs up

You will observe the lack of elastic bands retaining my under-carriage..... I have to admit I came over all modern & attached the U/C with captive nuts & plastic bolts.....much neater

I know, I day I will be beaten senseless by a bunch of vintage modellers wielding rolled up copies of the Keil Kraft Handbook......wink 2

Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 01/03/2020 23:17:49

23/02/2020 17:53:23

Hi George & Welcome to the forum.....

That looks like a Mini Super or a later Super 60 to me. What is the span? The bottom dowels are there to hold the undercarriage in place.....the U/C is placed on the bottom & then elastic bands wrapped around the U/C & the dowels to secure it. The idea is that its a flexible mounting allowing the U/C to move or even come off in the event of a heavy landing.

These models fly on rudder, elevator & ailerons. They fly very well but obviously aerobatics can be a bit restricted due to the lack of ailerons.

07/01/2020 21:27:07

Like Piers I haven't soldered any XT30s but lots of XT60s.

I recently soldered some wires to an XT60 connector without tinning either & was amazed at how much easier it was & how good the result. As many have noted it's very easy to add to much solder & make a mess when the solder overflows.

A useful tip is to join a plug & socket together before soldering. This is so that, in the event of the contact getting a little too hot & softening the surrounding plastic the mating half will hold the contacts in the right place whilst the plastic cools.

So my method....hold both the connector & the wire together using a pair of "helping hands" or similar; the XT connectors are nicely dished so make sure the wire sits snugly in the dish. Apply heat from a reasonably large soldering iron (40 Watt plus IMHO) with a well tinned tip. Apply the solder & let it flow around the wire & the contact. Remove heat & allow to cool. Insulate with heatshrink tubing (probably best to slip this over the wire before soldering....wink 2) Job done...

Now many might say that this is a bad method & that everything must be tinned first & I would have nodded vigorously in support but having soldered them without any tinning all I would say is try it might be pleasantly surprised.

Just another quick thought VERY careful when soldering connectors to the battery are in great danger of short circuiting the battery when doing this....the flash & spark that can result are impressive but I don'r recommend it. And no, I'd rather you didn't ask how I know this.....dont be sure to only strip one wire at a time...solder & insulate it thoroughly & then do the second wire.

Like much in's a skill....the more you do the better you get so get a few connectors & some wire & get practicing....thumbs up

Thread: Uploading pics. to album
05/01/2020 18:16:01

Hi FB3....I can emulate you & see your albums no problem at all....there appears to be no screenshot in there though. I suspect the screenshot is not in jpeg may have to open it in a photo editor & save it as a jpeg before you can upload it.

I do know that pics taken on Apple devices can cause problems as they are optimised for viewing on Apple products & often contain a bit of code telling the device which way up they are etc. this code is meaningless to a non-Apple device, hence the problems.

If you save the pics you want to upload as jpegs they should transfer to your Albums no problem at all...

Let me know if I can help further....thumbs up

Thread: another newbie.
01/12/2019 18:14:47

Welcome to the forum Derek....thumbs up

Thread: Trimming Question after Crash :-(
11/11/2019 22:10:11

Frank, was that the red & white Goodrich one....about 60" this



I had one too & you're right it had a really vicious streak. Lovely looking model but you always felt it had one malevolent eye on you waiting to drop your guard & get a bit careless with the elevator.

Much as I liked mine it was almost a relief when it crashed....dont know

Chris the best way to post pictures is to upload then to your Albums on the site & link to them there.

There's a "How to do it" Tutorial just here & here

Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread
10/11/2019 21:12:52
Posted by Andy Symons - BMFA on 10/11/2019 20:09:03:
Posted by Philip Lewis 3 on 10/11/2019 19:43:40:
When the BMFA upload the data to the CAA the CAA will e mail you the number and if you have and A,B or C will e mail you your pilot number.

From an IT perspective this should just happen as the upload will populate the system in the same way as someone who fills in the form so the response should be immediate.

Not quite, if you only get a flyer ID if you take the CAA test, if you are using the exemptions you do not need one. Basically the flyer ID is only a confirmation you have passed the CAA test.

@Andy Symons....can you just clarify that statement please. I understood we would ALL need a Flyer ID number & this number would have to appear on the model somewhere.

Point 6 of the statement from Dave Phipps on the 23/10 said...

Members who ‘opt in’ will receive an email from the CAA with their ‘Flyer ID’ once their data is uploaded. (Should a member be asked to provide proof of registration before receiving their Flyer ID the BMFA office will provide evidence of compliance.)

That reads to me as though all model flyers will need a Flyer ID

Have I missed something?

Thread: Trimming Question after Crash :-(
10/11/2019 17:38:36

Hi Christopher & welcome to the forum.....thumbs up

I'm not a "glider guider" so my experiences will be of little use but I wonder if you might have simply had too much movement & induced a high speed stall thus making the model flick into a spin. I had a YAK 54 (RIP) which was very prone to this.....too much elevator &'d best be 3 mistakes high or it was curtains (one day it did it & was only one & a half mistakes high & ran out of altitude, airspeed & idea all at the same time hence the RIP).

The flicking out of loops tends to support this theory too IMHO.

It may be that the model is one that prefers smooth high energy aerobatics using smaller control surface deflections rather than being forced through tight turns/loops etc. using a lot of control surface movement....

But as I say I'm not a glider man so hopefully someone who is will be along soon to set us on the right path...wink 2

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