Here is a list of all the postings Mike Rolls has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Brushless motor & ESC connectors|
Most shops, whether High Street or mail order, will stock the connectors that you need - best prices tend to be on E-Bay. One word of caution - I have found that sometimes one can find that the male and female connectors from different suppliers won't actual match - the male being too big (or the female too small depending how you look at it.) with a resultant need to use a lot of force to get them to mate - if indeed they will. Oddly enough Ihave never had the same problem with 2mm or 4mm connectors. It therefore is a good idea to buy the male and female connectors at the same tome from the same source.
I suppose it depends on the make of heat-shrink, but I have never found any for use with cables that can be shrunk with a hair dryer. What I do is use the soldering iron body (not the actual bit) which works fine for me.
|Thread: balsa and lite ply|
I've used Balsa Cabin for over 30 years with total satisfaction
|Thread: Regular renewal of a glow plug ?|
I used to use Taylor long reach idle bar in my stunters but stopped using them (this is 20 years or more ago) when some folk reported the idle bar coming adrift whilst the motor was running, doing the innards no good. It was probably a miniscule number of occurences, but being a cautious old git I changed to Enya 3- never had any problems with either plug.
The reason for using the Taylors in the first place was that they kept the fire going better with the rich - and therefore cool - run most folk use in stunters - or did back then - things may have changed.
Fractured? With a bit of it still shorting against the body of the plug? Difficult to see without a magnifier.
It depends on what you want to achieve. When i used to fly in competition (C/L stunt) I used a new plug for every contest flight. After use the plug was demoted to practice use. After a couple of practice sessions it was demoted to the 'lenders' box - there was always somebody in need of a plug!
You don't have to go to such lengths, however, but it is important to monitor the state of the plug. Grey and brittle looking - mixture too lean; black oily and sooty - too rich#
|Thread: Age ...memory ...problems ...|
Me too - got to the field and unloaded 4 fuselages but only 3 wings.
|Thread: First model to build????|
I missed the bit about 3/4 channels - I was thinking of the Junior 60 rather than the Super 60, but you are right - the latter is probably better suited to what Tom is looking to achieve.
In view of what you say, I would second the Junior 60 as a 'first build' choice - excellent aeroplane and enough of a 'learning curve' to stand youin good stead with future projects, of which i hope there will be many.
|Thread: First Model Covered|
Well done, Steven
|Thread: Frog 45|
|Thread: Digital Issues Subscription|
Do I understand this correctly? You pay £20 for digital subscription and can only read on line, not download for future brwosing? If so, that is just plain ridiculous.
|Thread: Frog 45|
PS - didn't read all the way through your second post- the very poor reproduction of the plan on the BB site is of the Mk I - hopefully so is what arrives
The Mk i was designed around the radially mounted Frog 175 petrol motor - and when they came along it would accept the radially mounted 100 and 180 diesels and the 160 glow.
The Mk II was redrawn at the front to accept beam mounts for the frog 150 diesel (by the time it came out the radila mounted motors were very definitely old hat).
I haven't been able to find a clear enough plan of the Mk I to be able to see if there were any other chanes, I am afraid. HTH
|Thread: Hawker Hind. Model built 1951, 63 inch|
The original engine test for the Amco PB 3.5 (Aeromodeller, 1950) gave the checked weight as 3.75 ounces for the version with the short shaft extension or 4.12 with the long extension. Can't tell which yours is from the photo, but looks rather like the long version as near as I can tell.
|Thread: Remember them?|
So true. Back then I didn't realise that AmylNitrate could probably have been bought from the chemists so didn't try.
I used Nitrex 15 and it was a different tine to Simon's. This was for Cox 049s in about the early 80s. I remember the Frog, KK and Mercury fuels from the 50s but as an impecunious schoolboy I mixed my own -25:25:50 ether:Castrol XXL;paraffin. Paraffin from the corner hardware shop at about 2d a pint. ether from the chemist - about a shilling for four ounces or so, and the oil from thelocal garage - can't remember how much that cost. but a pint of my fuel was much cheaper than any of the commercial offerings and - to my mind - went just as well in a mix of ED Bee, Elfin 149 and 249, AM 10, 15, 25 and 35.
For 1/2 team racers with the AM15s I added nitrobenzine to extend the range - it worked, but made the settings very critical - awfully easy to end up with a moaning, semi-seized engine!
I also stopped using nitrobenzine under the impression it was carcinogenic - it isn't, but is a very nasty substance attacking the blood stream.
|Thread: Stockport air Disaster|
One passenger survived the Staines crash, but only briefly - can't remember if he died in hospital or before he could be got there.
I worked for the Surrey County Council health department back then - one of my colleagues was the chief ambulance officer who was really upset at how difficult it was for his crews to get to the scene.
|Thread: which should I believe?|
I rely on checking the voltage in the pack. Got a table a while back when Li-pos first came into use and seems to be reliable. For 3s packs (others can be pro-rata)
Note the rapid fall-off once below 12V
|Thread: Koolhoven footage from 100 years ago!|
Many thanks for the link - fascinating!
|Thread: That 1/72 Spitfire you've been craving !|
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!