Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: August Nationals 2019|
A few years ago I arrived at about 3.30 as like you in previous years I arrived later and site was packed. When we arrived at 3.30 we were all corralled into an area just inside the gate. When the RAF said site was clear it was like a caravan stampede !How nobody was hurt was a miracle. There were even arguments over sites?
Do B&B now so won't arrive until Sat morning. Weather forecast is looking good so have a good weekend everyone.
Edited By Engine Doctor on 21/08/2019 20:42:45
Edited By Engine Doctor on 21/08/2019 20:44:27
|Thread: Gee Bee Models Dreamer Bipe|
Looks just like the Aero Master Bipe from the 70's ? Flew well no vices . That came with a choice of wing section If memory serves .
|Thread: Seagull Super Chipmunk ARTF|
As you say trying adding the balast and test flying it might be the only option. The the problem could be caused simply by the wood used in the construction ? Nothing can be done if that's the case ,simply not viable.
I had a Seagull Ultimate bipe some years ago and that was heavy and flew like a brick . I tried all sorts with that but it was the basic structure that was heavily built so short of a strip down and rebuild ( not worth the trouble) nothing could be done. I have seen others that flew very well so can only assume I had a heavy one
Good luck hope you can sort it .
Those metal pushrods that seagull use on the rudder elevator add weight to the rear. Properly fitted snakes will lose some of that unwanted weight. Worth a try ? Think about it 1 Oz of weight at the tail is approx 3 to 4 times further from CG than the bulkhead so will need 3 to 4 Oz's to counterbalance. Does the chippy have a heavy tail wheel set up? Same applies. Seagull kits have improved immensely over the years but they still inside some heavy junk fittings to keep price down . Look at any way lose weight at the rear and you will achieve the CG without a ton of nose weight.
|Thread: Greetings from Paul.|
Hi Paul . You could of course ask whoever mows the club patch to cut it shorter ?
|Thread: 4 stroking a Merco...|
Keep looking on the BMFA cassifieds and at swap-meets . The smaller Lasers are out there and don't fetch high prices as power / weight ratio is a bit low compared to the modern lasers . You should be able to get a reasonable example for £70 £80. OK it will probably need bearings but they a cheap .
Last Laser I bought at an auction was a Laser 80 unused in a Focker D7 aiframe for £70 ! The airframe needed some TLC but it flies well.
Converting a Merco is a relatively big job and will probably cost more than buying a used Laser .
Good luck whatever path you choose .
|Thread: ASP prop driver stuck!|
Agree with John; although a 15 min job to us who have done it many times may be a daunting task to the un-initiated .
|Thread: Isle of sheppey flying|
Hi Nigel, Mike and Alan The group who fly at Shellness are nothing to do with Medway MFC Not sure its legal to fly there anymore but as it's quite remote they seem to do as they like .. We currently don't have an active site on Sheppey due to a C**K up with the farmer and his secretary !!! we paid our rent she told him we hadn't and he ploughed up and cropped the site . Hopefully we can rebuild the site and have the Vintage RC /free-flight meetings again next year. .
Our site is at Iwade a couple of miles from the Sheppey crossing I am a member of BP as well as MMFC and its often windy at both sites, you just have to learn to fly in it
|Thread: ED Hunter MK IV - Prop nut assembly damage|
Hi Luccaaa You should be able to find a spare as there must be thousands of them lying around, The trouble is that many folk think that old ED bits are worth a mint and ask stupid prices . I have seen old motors that are smashed and bashed at Swap-meets and the asking price is just too high. Yes they have value but just for spares. You should be able to pick a crank up or even a bottom end for £10 to 15 .
The ED hunter came in two forms . A short Shaft version that was rarer and the extended shaft version that you have . The extension was actually the prop driver and the crankshaft is the same in both types it was probably the extended prop driver that caused the Hunter to vibrate so badly .The short shaft just uses a shorter prop driver as used on the Taplin Twin Aero version.
Edited By Engine Doctor on 11/08/2019 10:53:21
The reproduction CS engine while looking like a Hunter differs in detail to the original and while it captures the spirit of the Hunter is a different animal. The original had a taper machined shaft ,not a split tapered colett and all the repro threads are metric instead of BA. There may be other differences
The beauty of the Hunter was that it would start if you gave it a hard stare . I have a few in my collection but won't strip to photograph the crank and associated parts. I would definitely look for a replacement crankshaft rather than try to repair the existing one as it broken in a critical area. A prop flying off causes serious damage !
Good luck and hope you get it going.
Edited By Engine Doctor on 11/08/2019 10:00:50
Edited By Engine Doctor on 11/08/2019 10:04:06
|Thread: ASP prop driver stuck!|
Hello Keith . You will probably find that the prop driver has split allowing it to go further onto the tapered collet and foul the crankcase. It happens quite a lot on ASP etc as the prop driver seems to be made of varying hardness of alloy . It will need a replacement. Just engines apparently still stock parts for them .
|Thread: ASP 1.80 fs vs DLE 30 2s|
I have used / flown both engines and the DLE will run rings around the ASP 180 FS on power: but its noisy physically bigger when you add a decent silencer (supplied silencer is useless and just points the hot gas away from model noisily) and heavier when you include thedecent silencer,ignition unit and battery .
Horses for courses . ASP every time especially if your club has noise issues.
|Thread: Solartex, any tips?|
The idea of going all over the covering and ironing down firmly after fixing the edges is especially pertinent on open structure models . Ironing and fixing it to the frame work after shrinking , stiffens the structure and prevents twisting and makes the whole model much stronger. Its done after shrinking so that any unwanted twists can be twisted out /corrected before its fixed to all of the framework locking it in place . On sheeted models it does help stop the covering bubble in hot weather.
If you have cut the surplus off of the rudder and you still have twists then you can probably remove the wrinkles by using a hot iron and press and drag the wrinkles out then trimming and sealing down the edges again . Getting a tight perfect finish all over the model is all down to getting experience with the material don't be disappointed if you have a couple of wrinkles if this is your first effort .
The adhesive on Solar Tex and other iron on films can de grade and if as you say the protective covering was falling off then it's likely not at it's best. It usually adheres well with medium heat. I does need a higher heat to shrink it than solar-film
Modern cellulose thinners contains a high content of toluene It'sand xylene ,nasty substances by that is easily absorbed through you skin or inhalation and can affect your heart rate amongst other side effects so please be careful when using it.
Be aware that most single pack car paints Inc rattle cans are not fuel resistant and raw fuel or burnt fuel waste will remove or damage them with ease. You will need to apply a coat of fuel proofer.
Good luck and show us some pics of your efforts.
|Thread: Prostate Cancer|
Yes a friend at our club had it about 10 or 11 months ago . He is doing very well and was back at our indoor meetings within three weeks of having the procedure. He now has pee under control but did say he leaked a bit for a few months . He , as s most agree that loss of erectile function is a small price to pay .
Good luck and hope all goes well.
|Thread: ED Hunter MK IV - Prop nut assembly damage|
Hi . Good luck if you try to drill and fit a stud . The Hunter was a great engine but a bit of a vibration monster. The Frog 3.49 from the same era used a bolt in the crank but had a thicker dia shaft .Let us know how it goes .
Edited By Engine Doctor on 07/08/2019 08:58:34
Edited By Engine Doctor on 07/08/2019 08:59:58
|Thread: Sc120fs petrol conversion|
Hello John and Ronos, Sc engines and their clones , ASP, Magnum etc can suffer from low compression due to leakage around the valve seating and cylinder head casting. This will cause poor idle and a loss of top end performance .
Easy to detect just listen to the inlet or exhaust while turning over compression and if you hear gas escaping then there is the problem . Not all of them have this problem. In fact many have excellent compression and run really well but all of the examples that I have been asked to sort out with poor idle have the low compression problem . Grinding the valves wont cure the problem, as soon as you refit the head the leak returns .
I returned a magnum 160 twin under warranty some years ago due to low compression on one cylinder . The low comp cylinder would drop at lower revs and an on-board glow sorted that . Eventually even that could not get the duff cylinder to fire up consistently The engine was stripped and the valves ground to within an inch of their lives but no improvement . Eventually they fitted another cylinder head from a new engine under warranty and returned it to me . Guess what ? that too was a rubbish head so engine was sold off cheap.
If SC' and their like had GOOD compression then a shim would be needed as Martin suggests to lower the comp and stop engine knock
As John and Martin say the carb is not really suitable for petrol as mixture adjustment is too crude.
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