Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Show us your workshop!|
All yummy workshops and sheds .Only trouble is if you put those sort of pics on the web with any identifying features in our area youd be cleaned out by the end of the week !
|Thread: Whats the best way to clean your IC Engine?|
Not quite on thread but do be careful if your engine is flooded with WD 40 after cleaning . We all tend to fit a prop and flip it over to make sure it reaches all the parts , thats when it can fire ! with very painful results
|Thread: Corona DSSS|
Re FrSky 2.4 gear. I have been using it for about two years now and found it uterly reliable. I didnt plunge in , first bought a couple of rx's and a module and fitted to a hack modle and really gave it a thorough test. Once satisfied I fitted it in my Majestic .The only difference I can find is that it seems to react to inputs much quiker than the 35 meg radio , its brilliant.Never had a glitch in two years and its been uterly reliable. As I said earlier binding is really easy as is fail safe set up and boot up is almost instantaneous. I am now changing all my models over to this system which I couldn't even consider if I went the Futaba or Jr Route.
|Thread: Richmond Park flying|
Hello James thanks for the update . I have been on your website and it looks very good. I was doing a nostalgia trip re Richmond park . I would like to come and visit but you know what its like , get a nice day and its off to the club for a fly . I'm glad to see that the royal Parks have seen some sense and allowed flyng to continue albiet electric (or have I mis-read it ) I now live in north kent so its unlikely that I will visit but you never know . Keep up the good work.
|Thread: Small Diesels|
Hello all . Nostalgia rules ! Our club like many has an certain age group that all used the engines memtioned. A couple of us still use them in vintage designes now converted to radio assist or two channel. The DC Merlin was my first engine when I was about 9 , that got lost somhow but I now have a couple that I use now and a gain. The smell of the fuel brings back all sorts of memories. Our club ,the Medway MFC has frree-flight and radio assit days during the summer and everyone is welcome to come along and fly . The site is on the Isle of Sheppey near Harty which is close to Leysdown. The last FFday this year is on Sunday 25th Sept Starts at 10ish wind and weather permitting. We do charge £3-00 to fly all day and this goes to our club charity, the kent Air Ambulance . So if you live in the south east and want to join in come along.Engine size is limited to 2.5cc we also have a resurgence of control line flying so bring them along and have a go . More details can be found on our website at
Below is a pic of my frog 150 powered Taylor Craft from a Ben buckle kit . It flys and sound great with the diesel bubling away .
Edited By Engine Doctor on 13/09/2011 10:57:43
Edited By Engine Doctor on 13/09/2011 11:00:22
|Thread: Richmond Park flying|
Hi I was following the post re the Richmond park Flying field and its been removed . I have no problem with the removal but a short explanation from Admin would be courteous . The reason I was following it was that I started flying there in the early sixties but gave up due the restrictions on noise , the reduced flying times and the horendous bus journey from Clapham junction trying not to smash your model . i phoned Holly Lodge Info desk in Richmond park and was told that flying still goes on in the park and was sent the rules posted on the park notice board. apperently thes are hopelessly out of date and are due to be changed /updated soon.
Edited By Engine Doctor on 13/09/2011 10:20:49
|Thread: Recovering my Tiger Moth|
Hello Turby cat . You could also try removing some of the oil from the wood with paper and an iron .I used to use old brown paper but found kitchen towel works better . Place a couple of sheets o the affected wood and hold an iron on it and press firmly . The thinned oil soaks into the tissue . repeat until you have got out as much as possible then use the isopropyl or meths to get some more out .allow to dry then treat as mentioned in earlier posts
|Thread: Corona DSSS|
Hello Olly. If you only have one Rx with your module dont waste any more money buying more Corona Rx's. Change over to the FrSky set up also available from Giant Cod. Its a far better system altogether. It binds easily and quickly has a excellent easy to set failsafe system and bootup time is almost instantaneous . I tried the Corona set up a couple of years ago and was very dissapointed as bootup time took ages ! The FrSky system is the same sort of price as corona but is far far better.
|Thread: rcv 1.20 is it a good match for the topflite sea fury|
Hi solly . Yes the early ones had straight cut gears on the cyl to crank . They changed them somtime ago to bevelled gears that are much quiter running . It improved the sound of the sp range . i still dont rate them for general use but certain scale jobs like the Vicker Vimmy should suit them ok.
|Thread: The Ultimate Jet Jockey|
I reckon he should be dubbed Zaggy Stardust ! Brilliant
Hello Vecchio . Yes thats the one .I know they make all sorts of bends and shaped parts for custom exhausts. The one I have i bought some years ago and it bolts directly to engine and hangs below the mount ,exhautsing at the bottom of the cowl.
|Thread: Poor quality silencers threatening flying sites ?|
Looking at the recent boom in petrol engines from the far east I cant help but wonder why the importers keep buying them with less than useless exhaust systems. I would call them silencers if they silenced . Most of the present crop of engines including CRRC , DL, DLE and others seem to come supplied with the aluminium variety with no baffles fitted and made of very thin gauge ali that seems if any thing to amplify the sound.The only use they have is to point the hot exhaust away from the model.
I know some will say petrol engine noise is at a lower frequency than a glow engine and not as annoying , but think on. It takes numerous complaints from neighbours to get a council to act on a noisy dog barking but will only take one complaint from the public about noisy model aicraft
Back in the seventies and eighties flying sites were lost at an alrming rate due to noisy engines .The glow motor manufacturers of the day started to make "silencers" for their engines and these didn't silence either; they just pointed the oil etc away from the model so more sites were lost . OS made an add on baffle that fitted in the middle of the silencers that really worked so it can be done .
I like a lot of flyers am fortunate to be able to make or modify silencers for my models so that they work at reasonable sound levels so why cant the manufacturers? I recently had to have a word with a club members who had a new CRRC 50 fitted in his latest model that was so noisy it could be easily heard at houses 1 1/2 miles away on a calm day. On windy day with the wind blowing towards these houses it would have been much louder. He stopped using this engine until he bought a Zenoha silencer to replace it . Its now much quiter and shouldnt cause any problems. If we carry on using these cheap chinese exhausts we risk loosing more precious sites ;especially where housing projects get nearer and nearer.
As buyers we can and should demand an effective silencer from suppliers or ask them to remove the rubbish silencers from the box and refund on the price ! I know this will cause a few heated discussions with suppliers but unless we bite the bullet the makers will keep on churning out this rubbish and flying sites will keep dissapearing .As individuals we cant do much but importers who buy thousands of units from the makers get the message they can demand a change .
What do you think ? Could RCM&E start campaign for IC flyers ? Its in their interest after all .
Edited By Engine Doctor on 24/08/2011 11:12:03
Hello Diamond Geezer.The large petrol units are brilliant , eceonomical and easy to start once set up . If you go for the large petrol power option then please think about buying a replacement silencer ! The silencers supplied with these engines look very good but really poor quality, noisy and are not worth bolting on. They are extremely noisy and will in most cases be banned by your club or risk loosing your site. The zenoha silencers are better although more bulky . krumshied silencers ( I think that how its spelt)Sold by Stuart McKay are really good and quiet but relatively expensive .Good luck with your Venture into petrol power.
|Thread: Canned out runners ?|
Thanks for all the info . I have been given a 2200kv inrunner and it fits in the model "8mm diameter so i will give it a try . The only problem I can forsee is that ita proper in-runner and therefore has less torque . I want it to spin a 4.7x4.7 camprop direct drive on a 3s lipo i'll find out what current it pulls and the wattage as soon a s its screwed in the model and come back . i would still like the canned out runner as they are lighter and more torquey but will try this first.
Thanks for looking
Hi Ive been trying to find who currently sells canned out runners as a direct replacement for the old 400 brushed motor. I was given one some years ago that was burnt out and rewound it for lower kv , now I want a higher kv (around 3000) for a small pylon racer type model and cant find a supplier. I can find plenty of proper in runners but not the canned out-runner type that have far more torque. Super fly models used to make them but they are only availble,it seems in the US . Does anyone know who sells them ? I have looked on Giant Cod and Hobbyking and can find the correct external dimensions but no info on the actual motor . They just say in or out runner.
Any help suggestion welcome .
|Thread: Date change MMFC swapmeet /fly-in|
Thanks to everyone who attended the MMFC Swapmeet/bootsale . Approx £150 was raised for our Kent Air Ambulance collection . For pics Visit www.medwaymfc.org.uk
|Thread: fixing on a cowl|
The gap is not critical but what ever you are happy with .I usually leave a gap of 1.5 to 3mm depending type of model and engine mount. I have some flexible type mounts that need the 3mm for clearnce but on scale types or hard mounts I try to keep it as small as practical. If you use a plastic spinner it can in some cases be trimmed if the gap is to tight but remember trim equally all round to keep reasonable ballance . The ply wood ledge that Brian cooper mentions is an excellent support fo the cowlng and supports it all round . Its ideal for scale models where the cowl fits up against the fus rather than sliding over it as in most ARTF's.
Hello Phil . I use wooden blocks epoxied to the fire wall for a secure fit pre drilled with 1.5mm hole. These need to be a good close fit to the cowlingso as not to distort it when screws are tightened .To get the screws to line up with the holes and to get the correct gap between the spinner and the cowling I use the folowing method. From each mounting block I stick a 2-3 inch lenght of masking tape . Then get a compass with a SHARP pencil and insert the point into the screw hole in the blockwith the compass set to a distance that will clear the rear of the cowl. This should be written down in case you knock the compass later.Scribe an arc acroos the masking tape and repeat with all other blocks. Now take a short ruller and draw a straight line from the hole cutting through the arc drawn earlier. Now fit the cowling loosely over the monting blocks . Fit your spinner with some balsa strip the same thickness as the clearance required to the spinner backplate. Line up the cowling with the spinner and using masking tape tape sequrely in place. Now cut some more pieces of tape with a straight line drawn on them and fix to the cowling linning up with the original line on the tape on the fuz. Now place the compass point with the same setting( this is important ) on the arc scribed earlier wher the line cuts it and scribe another arc across the line on the tape on the cowling . Drill through where the arc and line intersect and your drill will go straight into the pre drilled holes. You now have all mounting holes in you cowling perfect ly lined up with the holes in the mounting blocks. Remove all tape spinner and cowling. I choose to fit my cowlings with the Hex drive servo screws that have a large washer she pressed into the head. Now I drill the wooden blocks to the correct pilot size for thes scews and the cowling holes to 3mm . next get some 2mm bore neoprene tubing (the type used for retract air systems)and cut one lenght for each screw about 3-4mm long and pussh up the srews until they touch the head. when screwed up they fit through the hole in the cowling until they touch the mounting blocks. When tightened they psread at both ends forming a grommet . This stop the cowling from vibrating and elarging the holes . It sounds far more complicated that it actually is but works really well . I have a five year old Kyosho majestic with the cowling fitted like this and its still perfect after hours and hours of flying .
Sorry for being long winded but hope it helps.
Edited By Engine Doctor on 15/08/2011 14:45:57
|Thread: Saito Exhaust Comes Loose|
It seems quite a few engines have this problem? I cant understand why . Nearly all my glow powered models are Fourstoke and I really cant remember the last time an exhaust came loose. I use the following method . Clean the thread and screw the exhaust tube into the head as far as it goes then back off to the angle required. Now tighten the lock nut up really snug. Run the engine up to tempereature stop and re-tighten the lock nut while engine is still hot . It works for me every time . I also make sure that the prop is correctly balanced as this will induce serious vibration and loosen your filling let alone the silencer and can also damage the airframe ! Even the props that claim to be prebalanced or or very expensive props can be seriously out of balance . All this works assuming that the threads have not been previously damaged by crash or running while loose . Once the head is damaged or worn the only real cure is replacement.
|Thread: Tight tappet clearances, what happens?|
Hello stuey . You shouldn't have any damage if the valves were just tight when cold and motor still had compression.If it had run and burnt the valves/seats then it would have had no compression and likley damaged valve seats . This is unusual in glow engines as the fuel doesn't burn hot enough ,unlike petrol. As a motor heats up the aluminium cases expand more than the steel pushrods so the clearance actually increases when hot , thats why you adjust then when cold ( smallest clearance) .some of the older car engines that were all iron had the clearances adjusted when hot as it worked in the oposite way whereas slightly more modern engines ,alloy blocks and heads with steel pushrods were adjusted when cold . That meant completely cold .Pushrod engines usually wore loose whereas overhead cam engines wore tight. Dont be tempted to reseat the valves on the cheaper engines unless really needed . You can reseat a valve and get a perfect seat/seal ,tested with parafin or similar and as soon as you refit the head it will leak as its usually a distorts as the head is tightened ,re-creating the problem .The valves can regress after a lot of running but normal adjustment should sort it .In general our model engines have so much oil slopping about that valve seat burn is not a problem unless converted to petrol and the associated higher temps involved.
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