Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Possible problem with FrSky or wind - up?|
Hello all. I have just been on the GC site and read a discussion about FrSky radio interfering with other FrSky sets as per the Futaba sets a couple of years ago . The thread was started last December but no new info /facts have appeared since just the usual chat . No mention of problem on the FrSky site . Has anyone heard anthing about this problem or can they shed any light on it ? Apparently interaction only occurs when a few FrSky sets are used at the same time .I have converted to FrSky and have been delighted with its performance on my smaller models but need to know if the problem is real or just a scare thing before flying larger models on it .
|Thread: YS 61 Fuel pumped|
Hello Rob The YS 61 is a great engine . I wouldn't bother with messing about making a non return valve . Your local model shop can get them and they cost a couple of quid for generic . Or you can contact Probuild and get a genuine YS one for about a fiver . The genuine one is made from ali were-as the generic one is plastic . As said earlier you will need a decent tank as it will pressurise up to 10-13 PSI . Use a three pipe set up. One from the engine return to tank . this should go to the top of the tank and be fitted with a" t" and piece and plug so that a vent can be used to release the pressure when re-fuelling or draining tank. The supply from the clunk to the engine and a filler /drain that goes into the bottom corner of the tank .For the clunk use a Dubro sintered metal filter/clunk. This will prevent any unwanted muck finding its way to the engine . Dont use the inline filters as they can leak or allow air to be drawn in stopping the engine . Mark these as fill and vent , if you pull the wrong one off to re-fuel you will get a face full of fuel ! Probuild will be able to supply any spares . parts are suprising cheap compared to OS parts from ripmax . To start open throttle and spin the engine ten or so times then close throttle and reppeat . If engine feels wet and bouncy connect the glow and start. If its been stored for a long time and still feel dry open the throttle and chocke fuel in with a finger over the carb as usual . once wet start . Another tip is to run engine dry at the end of a days flying .Drain tank and then restart and run until its completely dry .Then oil up if you dont intend to use for some time . Good luck
Edited By Engine Doctor on 10/03/2011 19:52:09
|Thread: Weak Renegade under carriage|
We shouldn't have to put up with this poorly designed stuff being sold to us, but as long as we keep on buying it the model shops will keep on taking our money. I have assembled loads of ARTF's for flyers and always recomend that the u/c is reconstucted before flying as its not a case of if it will break but when . The other problem is the ply wood used . The chinese seem to be able to produce plywood that has no glue holding it together ! and its just rubbish .I know its an inconvienience but strip out and replace u/c parts with proper birch ply using originals for pattern and add some doublers to supportit all. In the mean time have a good moan to your shop and the retailer , they may eventually specify a better build quality. It worked a few years ago with models that would fold wings or the wings or tail fell off in flight . The BMFA sort of got involved and the quality seemed to improve.
|Thread: Model Jodel-Where can I find one?|
I believe Flair made a jodel some years ago . it had a very nice fiberglass fuz . You may be able to find one with a wanted add here or on the BMFA classifieds
|Thread: Loss of power on OS FL70|
The tappets clearances are not as crital as you would think . They only cause real problems when too tight ,as in no detectable clearance , which stops the valve seating and loss of compession and when very loose so that you would probably hear them ; and agian notice a loss in compression. Have a look at the fuel system and also check that the throttle arm (which is screwed to the throttle barrel has not slipped) During a lay up the throttle can and often does get stuck with dried fuel /oil . Its possible that opening the throttle can cause the plastic arm to slip and only partially opening the throttle . Quick visual check by looking into inlet and checking fo full movement,
Edited By Engine Doctor on 07/03/2011 11:53:30
|Thread: Making Transfers|
Hello Phil . If you prefer self adhesive decals then Crafty Computer sell sheets of self adhesive A4 ink jet printer paper in clear , chrome or gold . They sell a starter pack so you can try the different types
|Thread: Canopy glue|
If you wont ever want to remove it glue it with Zap-a-goo used to be called Zap-a-dab-a Goo from pacer glues. fantastic glue like a very thick Bostick
|Thread: Laser Tank Position|
Hello kev. I had a fokker Dvii a few years ago and retro fitted a laser 70 to it, the tank was in the designed position .As you say the carb is fitted to the head and I worried wether or not it was to high for the tank . no need to worry the lasers draw fuel really well . Once primed for starting it would run the tank dry no problem .
|Thread: Fan adaptors|
Thanks Wolfie . Sorry fo late reply . I might give that a try .
|Thread: I'd like to make a silencer|
Hi BB I made a silencer box for a ST 3250 some years ago using ali sheet and Techno weld . Seams kept splitting so had to use thicker sheet that added extra weight . I make silencers now for my scale models with thin sheet steel and braze it using oxy acetylene .It should be possible to silver solder using a good blowtorch Warbirds tend to need weight in the nose so the extra weight generally isn't a problem . Give it a go the weight diference isn't really that much and you can save a bundle. I There was a tutorial video for techno weld on u tube I believe .
|Thread: Anyone had experience of a Zenoah 23cc strip down ?|
Hello Alan . Ah ................bent shafts thats a differnt ball game !
|Thread: warbird wheels|
All sorted Thanks
|Thread: plan for Magnatila wanted|
Hi David . I sent you a private message about Magnatilla plan I thought I had . I've had a look but its either hiding or been thrown out . Sorry
|Thread: quantity of paint HELP|
Hello Danny . You may want to check it out at your local paint factors but this is what I was told some time ago , but the chap said that the legislation was realy confusing ! if you own a vintage vehichle that is finished in Cellulose then factors can supply it to you on proof of ownership (log book). If you want it for a modern car then its a no no. But you can still buy it for plant and machinery BS colours . It falls down a bit in that not all factors will stock it . Kent Paint near Maidstone and BSB at Rochester can supply it . Last week I was offered cellulose for my Mustang (thats ok cos its not a vehicle) in matt or gloss from their BS colour chart as a nearest match and he would tint it at your risk.
Hope it helps
Hello . I have just bought some two pack paint for my latest model.While at the paint factors ( they supply all types of paint and sundries to the auto trade) I was told that they could also supply the colour I required in cellulose . I thought cellulose had been out lawed by the EU but its available in BS colours and can easily be tinted with other colours to match what you want . If you have a specific colour they may also be able to make a aerosol for you but that would probably be solvent based acrylic ( dont compare these with the aerosols sold at diy shops ) Another wat to go is Water based acrylic paint. I painted an EDF model last year with some acrylic art paint cost 99p to paint the model and a couple of quid spray it with ronseal satin varnish . looks great and seems to last well .
|Thread: Bandsaws - advice needed|
IMO I would forget the scroll saw and definately go for a proper band saw .But thats only my preference I got very frustrated with my scroll saw as it was very difficult to cut straight edges. I'm On my second band saw now . The first one was a micro saw that was very handy but limited in the size of the throat. The second one was bought fro Axminster , a Managers special (Ex demo model) saved about £10 . Excellent bit of kit . Ive since upgraded the the fence withe one that Axminster sell cost about another £15 and worth every penny . Once sorted and fettled they make builing so much easier and quicker.As said earlier in this post the belt sander is the next best buy for the workshop .
|Thread: Capiche 50 kit by Malcolm Corbin|
Hello Steven .If it as stated then you have a bargain. Well done . I built one of the early one for a club mate. Excellent kit and superb flyer. All of Malcolm's models flew really well. Only down side in the kit was the extensive use of light ply and the way cyano cold travel along the grain and stick your hand to bits a long way from the original glue application guess how i found that out ? The one i built was fitted with an OS 50 with a Weston pipe and was awsome .Good Luck and enjoy the build.
|Thread: Balsa filler|
Hello Tony . I recently started using Ronseal Wood fill . Its brilliant , sets quickly ,sands very easily and doesn't crack or drop out like some water based fillers . It might be a bit heavy for very light jobs models but provided its used sensibly it great.
|Thread: Anyone had experience of a Zenoah 23cc strip down ?|
Hello BB They can usually be sorted. I bought a model with a Zenoah 45 fitted .It all felt fine the owner said it had never been crashed .Like ! as soon as it got warm It tighten up and got stiff at tdc. The crank was soon removed and aligned in lathe . Took about ten mins to sort once removed . Anyone who used to repair old motorcycle engines will know how to sort this problem as many of the the older bikes had pressed in big end assemblies. I'm sure Alan C can sort it .
|Thread: Medway MFC Swapmeet / Bootsale /Fly-in|
Hello David . thanks for the help
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