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Member postings for Engine Doctor

Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: P40 isopon filler
29/01/2011 15:12:04
Dont use any car fillers , as previously said they are too hard and sanding is difficult on balsa. Try Ronseal Wood Fill . It comes in biege or white Is lighter than car filler,sets really quickly and sands really easy, but do use a block . Its a favourite in my w/shop . As already said small dents and dings in balsa can be removed with a little water but rather than let it dry naturally, blow dry it with a hot air gun and the heat really brings the dents out .
Thread: HP Engines
19/01/2011 16:19:22
Thanks for the info. Its good to hear that the business is to continue with new owners.
18/01/2011 09:59:08
Sorry If I gave you false hope with John Haytree . I didn't know he had retired . Can anyone confirm ?
Thread: O.S super gemini ft-240 fourstroke twin 40cc
15/01/2011 17:30:36
Hi all fourstrokes are set up with the valves "on the rock " . With the engine/crankshaft  set at TDC the camshaft  is  set so that the exhuast valve is closing and the inlet valve is opening (on the rock). If you concentrate on one cylinder then the other will automatically be set as it only has the single cam shaft . I rebuilt my Gemini 120 like this and it was excellent. Its also good to hear you stripped and cleaned your engine as the gunk in mine blocked the big end oil ways and caused a very expensive rebuild .I hope you get sorted

Edited By Engine Doctor on 15/01/2011 17:35:37

Thread: HP Engines
15/01/2011 17:23:42
Hello Hienkel. Hp four tsroke  engines came in a 21, 49 and a rare 60 size . The 49 is bigger than a modern 60 fs and half as heavy again ! As said they are underpowered for their size and weight.  The quality of the originals was excellent but cant comment on the american licence jobs. Not really a practical engine unless you fancy  a vintage model  ,junior sixty or similar. John Haytree may be able to sort some spares for you
His number is  01626 852 330 . He works part time now so you may have to try a couple of times to contact him , he is very helpful and knowlegable . Hope you get it running ok .
Thread: ESC Just Died - could it have been something I've done?
27/12/2010 12:32:49
Hello Tony .if you are intending to stick with electric models then  buy a watt /amp meter that fits between the battery and esc . It will tell you without any doubt or guess work if you a pulling too many amps .it can also save your model as esc failure or fire in flight usually have serious cosequencies to the model  I'd also be inclined to check and see if the motor you used has a dead short as an esc should not fail that quickly even if it si a bit overloaded.
Thread: Medway MFC Forum
26/12/2010 11:57:46
Hello all . I have just read  a post re joining Medway MFC's Forum . There is a notice on the registering  page that say " No new members accepted" or similar . Please ignore this as all new members are welcome  . If you wish to register on the forum then contact me via normal website for joining the club or PM me on this site  and I will put you in contact with the webmaster who will register you . Registration is now done manually  due to the high ammount of spam being put on the site .
Thread: Cutting the tip off a 2.4Ghz aerial
25/12/2010 12:17:54
Quote " But how can he be breaking the LAW, it is at worst a free flight model"       No its not !      How can a rc model be compared to a free flight model ? Erflog obviously has not trimmed any FF models for a long time or forgoten how to . Free Flight model also tend to be a bit lighter than the average 120 sized rc model . I realise its supposed to be a fun argument, but I (and modellers I know ) have actually seen and had to deal with this type of approach to model flying and it is at times  frightening .  IF its broke  dont fly it get it checked.

Edited By Engine Doctor on 25/12/2010 12:25:37

Thread: Cheap cyano
18/12/2010 11:27:48
If you work out the volume of glue you get for 99p the multiplyit by 10 it doesn't really compare to the amount you get in the zap or devcon packs that cost arond a tenner So the zap ,devcon etc really work our cheaper and  are guaranteed to set I wont use epoxy sold bya well known model adhesive supplier from the midlands as the first and last lot I bught set like rubber and ended up in the bin. I now use mainly the Zap 5 and 30 min epoxy . You can some times find it on offer at model shows 3 for 2 etc .
Thread: Water transfers/decals.
18/12/2010 11:07:59
Rethe water slide decals . If you have a inkjet printer the Crafty Computers sell the paper to make your own. I have tried it and have one complaint though. The adhesive is very weak and if left to soak for too long will disolve away . I remedied this by spreading some pva adhesive onthe job , sliding the decal onto it  then clean up with water. They also sell self adhesive decal paper in clear , white , chrome and gold effect . Works very well but has to be fuel proofed before its cut from the sheet. I made some minature club badges for indoor jobs for the club some years ago . Usual thing though you make a load at you own cost , ask for somthing towards the cost of materials and then no one wants them   Our club sec now gets a friend to make sheets of self adhesive club badges  that we sell to members  at cost. Not water slde but next best Pm me if you want details and I'll ask our sec for details . Hope it helps

Edited By Engine Doctor on 18/12/2010 11:15:02

Thread: Acrowot thrust
11/12/2010 11:37:17
Hello R6dan . Sorry about "built in side thrust" i just checked the build blog I put on our club website some years ago . Its not mentioned . If interested its at . click on forum then on Models under construction . As for a short cut the offset for the engine mount ( so that the shaft exits centrally) this can be calculated by using the sine  or is it the co-sine of the angle required . Any mathmaticians out there who can share it with us ? A friend who I have lost contact with used to sorted it for me in seconds . He wanted the offset required in degrees , the distance from the firewall and from this he calculated the ofset for the mounting holes . simple really if you can remember the fomula  but I never payed attention at school as I was usually dreaming about flying the lataest model when I got home

Edited By Engine Doctor on 11/12/2010 11:48:57

Thread: Saito 120 , twin plug, pumped
10/12/2010 16:52:44
Hello Chris . The link shows a fuel regulator . An add on pump fitted into the backplate was available a few years ago , I wonder if you have one of these . they worked on the pulse produced by crankcase pressure. I still cant find any pics on the internet of a Twin plug model . You may have a converted engine . All saitos I have heard of use exhaust pressure for the fuel delivery or just draw the fuel and only have one plug per cylinder . The new petrol engines use a pumped carb but thats completely different . I'd love to see a few pics if you could post them .
Thread: Acrowot thrust
09/12/2010 14:16:19
Hi Crash and burn . The Acrowot should have built in side thrust or is it a copy ?
Thread: Elevators with 2 Servos
09/12/2010 14:13:05
 I have to agree with Eric Bray on this one . A "Y" lead works well as long as the servos dont bounce . ( some servos bounce and have difficulty centering when fitted to a Y lead)  The kiss principle always worked  for me. Only add on's I'd recommend is possibly a servo reverser y lead so as to get a symetrical set up with identical movement on both halves of elevator and Plug locks or tied plugs so there is no pssibility of the lead coming unplugged . Was your test pilot afraid to test fly it and used this as an excuse ?
Thread: Saito 120 , twin plug, pumped
09/12/2010 13:59:15
Hello Chris . Do you mean Twin cylinder ? as no Twin plug 120 pumped appears in the saito range, infact i cant find a pumped saito in the range either. Do you have a picture of the engine .
Thread: Firmly Fixing Solarfilm.
05/12/2010 16:32:24
Hi Rick . Almost 2:a dont use sanding sealer its not needed and can reduce adhesion  ,2:c Solarloc ? I think this should be Prymol, mentioned in earlier posts. On the over laps approx 1/4 inch, use Prymol liquid. Its made by solarfilm and increases the bond on the overlap or shiny surface. You only need a thin coat applied to the glossy outer finish that is to be covered . This is allowed to dry completely before applying the overlapping covering.
Prymol works well with solarfilm but not so well with Profilm or other polyester coverings, cost around £3-00 ish  a tin  and will last for ages . It can also be used over solarfilm to aid the adhesion of paint .
I have to say that IMO Balsaloc is not the best adheive for covering. Deluxe Materials make Covergrip that is far better fo fixing to balsa and ply .(not usually required on balsa unless its been contaminated with oil)

Edited By Engine Doctor on 05/12/2010 16:40:01

Edited By Engine Doctor on 05/12/2010 16:42:00

Thread: Collet type EDF fan adaptors
05/12/2010 13:52:58
Hi Dan . As bruce says its a ordinary prop adaptor. The fan adaptor is longer but has the same fitting for the motor shaft.
Thread: Can this edf motor be used as a normal motor
04/12/2010 12:18:16
Hi Dan . You can buy a motor for very little these days for example Giant cod sell cheap bell motors that will turn 8 or 9 inch props . Or swap your motor with someone who flys more EDF , for a suitable motor .
Thread: rewiring heli motor
03/12/2010 11:40:08
Hi Boots . I rewired a fan motor a few years ago  after a mate burnt it out using it on a Zagi  I  messed it up Oops! I had another go and changed the winds from (i think 8 winds of 5 strands to 12 winds of 3 ) until the segment was full . The motor now happily turns an 8 inch prop and is usable in a normal model . The site I found for wind and pattern info has since gone from the net ?  but I guess you could find a similar site on google .
ps found this link for different winds

Edited By Engine Doctor on 03/12/2010 11:46:46

Thread: Firmly Fixing Solarfilm.
03/12/2010 11:25:41
Helo Rick ,All the above works but have to ask , have removed the backing film ? I remember a friend struggling years ago with solarfilm as he had missed that part of the instructions  If so another tip is to give  the work/model  a coat of "Clearcoat" where you want the film to stick .I.E leading and trailing edges ,ribs etc and around edges of sheet structures It is listed as a fuel proofer but is  especially useful for fixing and sealing the covering around the engine/oily areas  and around the tail plane joints .  Should any fuel get under the edge then it wont soak into the wood or lift any further .Clearcoat is a heat sensetive resin and will effectively weld to the solarfilm adhesive . If you decide to try it then do allow it to dry thoroughly ,preferably over night. Its also a very good adhesive for fixing litespan and airspan to airframes , it sticks much better than balsa lock and is very durable . I use it with all types of iron on covering . Downside is the smell /fumes while drying wich banishes it to the garage workshop .good luck and let us know what  method  you prefer and how you get on.
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