Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fueling issues|
Hello wesley. i cant understand why your engine is flooding when filling? i think you must have plumming issue . Three line set up is as follows . Line 1 from clunk goes to carb . line 2 goes from top of tank ,thats the very top. It can be extended with some fuel tube if needed . It then goes to the exhaust pressure nipple. this allows air to escape when filling and pressure from the exhaust into the tank to help fuel to the carb when engine is running.. Line 3 is for fill and draining the tank . If you bend this tube inside the tank down and extend with some fuel tube so that it sits along a corner or along the center bottom on a round tank. Set up like this you will be able to tell when the tank is full by fuel running from the exhaust. If your engine still floods when filling then the carb must be far too low compared top the center of the tank.
Dont use "T" pieces or filters in the carb line as these can allow air leaks that will stop an engine or cause eratic running.If you feel you need a filter then fit a Dubro filter clunk .The carb can be left in the idle position for filling with no need to touch the needle valve once set. Hope this helps .
|Thread: Freeflight radio assit and controline day at Medway MFC North Kent|
Medway MFC will be having a Freeflight , Radio assist and conrtol line day at their Harty site on the Isle of Sheppey on Sunday 19th June Starts at 10 am fly till dusk. £ 3 to fly all day spectators welcome ( a small donation in the charity boxes ) All proceeds go to the Kent Air ambulance . Some friendly comps will be arranged . This a brilliant free flight venue .Details and location can be found on the website at www.medwaymfc.org.uk further details contact Neville on 01795-877918 or Mike at 01474564863
PS dont forget our Swapmeet / bootsale On the 22nd May . see posting
Edited By Engine Doctor on 07/05/2011 10:20:23
|Thread: Failsafe Corona Setting|
Hello erflog . That is a known problem with the corona system . It has to have the FS set every time the Rx is powered up . If you can get clearance from her who must be obeyed , sell it all at a boot fair or similar and re-equip with the Fr sky system from GC Its brilliant Binds in seconds , reboots almost imediately and failsafe is a breeze to set and remains set . I had the corona set up but noticed that boot up times at the field somtimes took ages and re-boot took up to 15 seconds (no good when your model is pointing down). so changed to Fr-sky best move ever.
|Thread: Pound Land Edwards Epoxy|
Hello R6dan. Obviously better than our £1 shop epoxy . They sell the never setting variety . Loads of time to get everything in the correct position ! then wait ...eventually it goes rubbery .
Luckily I tried / tested it first.
Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 05/05/2011 08:27:22
|Thread: Petrol chain saw for £55|
Hello eck . dont go there m8 . We had a member do just that at our site on a neighbouring farmers tree !!!. Nothings been said by farmer as yet but the member is now an ex-member .
|Thread: 72" Flair Spitfire - anyone know it - opinions wanted please|
hello Steven. I still have one . Havent flown it for about four years. flies ok ,very floaty on landing with suggested CG. As Alan says its cartoon scale but looks good in the air . 120fs is ok if its a good one ( they can be rubbish with low compression ,resulting in low power even from new) One small warning. The kit supplies covered star clips to retain the wheels . Dont use them they are useless. Use a proper collet or solder a washer on to retain the wheels .One wheel on my model came off (engine had stopped) and model had bounced a few inches ,too late to retract the UC . The wheeless leg dug in then ripped out and went through the wing .I had doubts about the clips but hind-sight is a wonderful thing If you friend fitted air retracts he may have sorted these.
Hello Phil . If you haven't done the job yet try some Ronseal "Woodfill" .Its like car body filler but lighter and sands so easy . Its also good to use on balsa as it sands at about the same rate and doesn't leave a bump .
|Thread: DLE 30 noise reduction|
I modified a silencer for my sons dl 50 as the stock item sounded like a machine canon !
The mod consisted of a ali tube with O/D approx 5/8 the I/D of the exhuast outlet. This tube has a reasonably thick wall thickness,approx2.5mm.The tube was insteted in the exhaust pipe and pushed up to touch the canister wall then marked and cut to lenght. About 1 1/2 inch from the end this tube was squashed almost flat and the other end was pinched to a point . The outlet on the muffler was drilled so as to line up with the squashed part of the tube and the canister was drilled to accept the pointed end of the tube . This tube was welded to the exhaust canister through the hole drilled in the canister wall and through the holes drilled in the outlet pipe. I used Techno weld for the welding . The good news is that it worked very well with a much quiter exhaust note ad no noticable power loss . The downside is that the chinese silencers are made of vevy thin alloy and they crack after about two hours use .Still worth a try, your silencer may have been made from better quality coke cans I have just this week done a similar mod to a pits silencer fitted to an OS90 for a club mate . It was flown on Sat and Worked really well .
As for wrapping your mufflers with silicone etc ,it will only stop any noise caused by the walls resonating and not tackle the cause .
|Thread: Problematic ASP 70 4 STROKE|
Hello Vernon . glad you got it sorted .
|Thread: Medway MFC Swapmeet / Bootsale /Fly-in|
Hello David , could you please add the following to our swapmeet add in the events ? MMFC support the Kent Air Ambulance. All proceeds from its events will be donated to KAA.
|Thread: Advice Needed|
I have been talking to a young club member who has just bought his first car . He got all the silly quotes of £3500 to £4000 for a 1 liter corsa . He has now bought a Tracker policy.I had never herd of this but it is policy that cost him £1250 , still a lot but better than the previous quotes. The tracker policy will not cover him after 10pm to 5am . It seems thats when most near-do- wells get into trouble so for not using his car at night and staying out of trouble he saves cash. Seems a reasonable way of saving money to me until hes a bit older . Worth asking about ?
|Thread: OS MAX FP 40|
yes a sharp ring can be seen in the piston and the crown is usually depressed and probably fractured as a result . I had repaired quite lot of heli engines and replaced the internals due to piston failure not realising that the culprit was the piston locking tool and a newcomer to the gadet hungry market ! I noticed one being used in a model shop . They were fitting a clutch assembly to an engine and using one of these tools to lock it. I pointed out the damage that was being done and ignored by the assistant . He said he'd done loads of engines like that . probably the ones I repaired later .
|Thread: Advice on 30-35cc engine|
Hello R6dan . I have run three dl 50's Now called DLE . (I believe some family thing has caused the name change) They are excellent engines and vey powerful and easy to start. I have two CRRC pro engines a 45cc and a V2 26 cc . .They both let me down at the end of last year needing major re-builds . Parts easily available and not too expensive . Havent run them in yet so cant comment but would probably now go the DLE route in prefference . I built an extra wot for a club mate a few years ago fitted with a YS 140 (I later bought it from him after I test flew it and he didn't like it !) Very easy to fly with no vices ,like all of Chris Foss kits .
The YS 140 had tons of power for vertical performance . I reckon a good S/H SC180 FS would fly it well and be lighter. Dowside is the cost of fuel. Petrol is still cheaper than methanol even if it doubles in price. Cheap petrol engines can be dissapointing so do your research .Buy cheap, Buy twice !
|Thread: Engine Tuning Problem|
hello scuffmiester. The main needle setting you mention (2 turns open) is a starting point . First start your engine and open to full throttle . If the engine is spluttering and moking well slowly close the main needle ( screw it in) a couple of clicks at a time and allow it to settle until peak revs are achieved.Continue to screw in one click at a time until the motor revs start to drop then screw out to the the setting that gives the highest revs again and the two further clicks so that the engine doesn't run lean . Now close the throttle . engine should idle smoothly . Allow to idle for a about 15 seconds and open throttle smoothly and fully. If the engine hesitates and splutters with plenty of blue smoke then the idle mixture crew needs screwing in 1/8th a turn at a time to weaken the mixture (stop the engine while you adjust this) . If when you open the throttle the engine dies with a sucking noise. little smoke from the exhaust then the idle mixture screw needs screwing out to richen the mixture. Continue to do this until the engine goes from idle to full throttle without any hesitation. Once set the needles shouldn't need a lot of adjustment oe fiddling with. Occasionally the mixure may need a small adjustment if the weather conditions are damp or very cold etc. Good luck hope you get it sorted .
|Thread: A few safety thoughts while slowly recovering after nearly chopping off my thumb.|
Thanks for posting the pics of your injuries Bob , perhaps it will persuade a few modellers with a poor attitude to safety to change their ways. I regularly see (usually young) flyers at shows starting very large petrol jobs without even wearing a stout glove. I witnessed an accident when a newbie at our club,who thought he new it all and wouldn't listen to safety advice , put his hand into a reving os 90FS. It broke all of his fingers and thumb and his hand was wired together for weeks. He never came back to the hobby . Sometimes a gruesome picture will drive a message far better than words . Providing we all concentrate when starting and tuning our engines , normal needle valves or glow sticks should'nt be a problem . Us older modellers who started on 1/2cc diesels learnt very quickly that even a small engine can really hurt . Alright , they didn't sever digits but could cause a lot of pain that taught you very quickly to keep away from the prop and the ether sting enforced the lesson espacially during cold weather. Our club now enforce the use of model restraints (or a competent person has to hold the model while starting  this has had a definate effect on safety awareness .
I hope your thumb recovers completely Bob and thanks for having the guts to share your misfortune .
PS The electric flyers should also take note as electric motors keep on biting !
|Thread: SC 36 is something missing??|
Hello dean . have look in the box . These engines often come with the needle valve assembly unattached. Its fitted to the engine with the back plate screws two are slightly longer to allow for the bracket.
|Thread: OS MAX FP 40|
Hello Noel . I know its a bit off topicbut reading the posts I noticed the "sympathy of a breakers yard dog " a very good description of what some people do to their engines ! If you ever need to lock an engine to undo a prop ,no need to remove from model . Simply invert the model/engine and pour some engine oil into the cylinder.As the oil will not compress much it effectively locks the engine enough to remove the most stubborn prop-nut . When done simply allow engine oil to run out and flush with fuel . Dont what ever you do use a piston stop to lock an engine (these screw into the glow plug thread ) as sold by the heli dealers . They will damage the piston crown that then fails at high revs and shatters I've had to repair many engines that have had these evil little devices used on them ,usually having to replace the piston liner and bearings .
Edited By Engine Doctor on 28/03/2011 11:32:24
|Thread: laser carb.|
Hello Fly-boy3 . The early lasers ,as Ken has said used a ST carb. They didn't fit directly into the head but were fitted/pressed into an adaptor tube. This tube was fitted with an "o" ring that was pushed into the head .The grub screw then located into a groove machined in the adaptor to secure it. . It sounds as though an air leak is present and only the rich mixture setting is keeping/allowing it to run also keeping it very cool .Fit an "o" ring and you should be able to get the mixture correct which should reduce the smoke to a normal blueish colour. The grey smoke you describe could possibly be unburnt fuel . High nitro fuel can cause a lot of smoke usually white but 5% is not high enough to cause this .
Good Luck E.D.
Edited By Engine Doctor on 28/03/2011 11:06:04
|Thread: Possible problem with FrSky or wind - up?|
Hello all . I thought some one out there would blow it out of all proprtion . If its one isolated incident then chances of a repeat are slim. About three or four members at our club use it so i'll tell them to do a check with one another to be safe .
|Thread: ASP 70 4 stroke throttle problem|
Hello Vernon . Does the engine look as if it may have been stripped? I bought a Magnum 120 FS a couple of years ago that would tick over all day but would only rev up to about3/4 throttle then cut. I tried eveything then checked the valve timing . It was one tooth retarded . Easy to check. renmove the cam cover set engine on TDC (inbetween compression) with the valves on the rock ( Exhaust just about to close and inlet just about to open ) If this doesnt occur at TDC then thats the problem . If you cant decide then set the motor as described and look in the at the camshaft . When at TDC you should be able to see a dot stamped on the cam pointing to the center of the cam follower . If all of the above is correct then you know its just a fuel problem .
Edited By Engine Doctor on 27/03/2011 11:25:35
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