Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Super tiger 2000|
Hello . I bought the CRRC on e-bay from a hong kong seller but engine was stocked and sent from the UK and took three day for delivery.I have put the e-bay page in a pm to you both. Regards E.D.
Hello Duane . All the large ST engines I have had havein the past let me down at critical moments and caused the demise of the models, a couple of them were very expensive . If you can afford it , go for a petrol engine . The cost of a proper silencer for your ST will be significant . Beware of the very small capacity silencers that used to be sold for ST some years ago they only added to the unreliability of the engine causing over haeting . As I remember the St 2000 wasn't a very powerful engine and was ,by todays stanards very heavy. I have just bought a CRRC 26 version 2 with proper beam mounts .Cost around £120 .It would be a good replacement for the ST.this came complete with a muffler and ignition system . The added reliability and longevity of petrol engines makes a lot of sense .the other plus is that petrol engines use far less fuel and wont require such lage tanks as the glow equivalent. And fuel is only about £5 a gallon .I have just built a new DB Hurricane and fitted a DL 50 in it . The airframe needed the weight of the engine up front nd balances perfectly. Should have loads of power . Haven't flown it yet as waiting for better weather. Good luck with the hurricane .
|Thread: magnum 25 xl|
Hi Mark Magnum are distributed in the uk by Weston UK and are IMO as good as any budget engine on the market . Give Weston a ring about a tuned pipe as their tuned or throttle pipes work really well .
|Thread: ICGF 15CC Petrol|
Hello Richard.I have beenlooking for a small petrol engine for my flair spitfire . As the 120 FS I had in it was less than impressive I Googled all makes of engine I could find and the RCGF was given quite a few write ups .Might be worth a try ? I have gone for the Version 2 CRRC 26 cc as the price I found on e-bay just couldn't be beat .
|Thread: Gummed diesel engines|
Hello Mat . No need to soak them and risk getting forieign matter in then . Warm them thoroughly with a hot air blower /paint stripper , or put them on a tray in the oven when your wife /girlfriend isn't around being careful with or removing any plastic parts . When realy warm they should turn quite easily but dont force them. Once they turn then introduce some diesel fuel or light thin oil and turn over until free and loose . It should be ok to run them now .Really stubborn gummed engines may need more heat . To clean the exterior after freeing off and when cooled down , rinse with some cellulose thinner /gun wash grade / used with a stiff brush or old tooth brush this works well . Oil wth some good quality oil and store in a sealed container / plastic bag . Hope it helps
|Thread: Medway MFC Free Flight and Radio assist Vintage and Scale days|
Medway Model flying Club are having three Free flight Radio assist Fly-in’s for vintage and scale at their Harty flying site situated On the Isle of Sheppey near Leysdown .The dates are 13th June, 18th July and 26th September 2010 . Cost is £3-00 al flyers The site is very large , open and flat . Engine size is limited to 2.5cc . Electric and gliders also welcomed with no restriction on size . For further details contact Neville email@example.com or Mike Smith at firstname.lastname@example.org
Edited By Timbo - Administrator on 23/02/2010 13:56:57
|Thread: Medway MFC Swapmeet/bootsale|
Medway Model Flying club having Swap meet /boot sale followed by a fly-in at their Stickfast lane Flying site on Sunday 9th May and August 8th 2010 Situated near Iwade ,Sittingbourne just off the A249 £5-00 a boot . Starts at 10AM until it ends . Anyone wishing to fly after the sale will have to show proof of insurance. For further details or to book in advance email@example.com or Phil at firstname.lastname@example.org
Edited By Timbo - Administrator on 03/04/2010 10:07:13
|Thread: Giving it that weathered used look|
Hi Iv'e found the best way to tone down a bright new finish is to dust with light coats of dirty thinners . Well not exactly dirty but thinners with just a tiny ammount of black or dark brown paint added . Apply light coats letting it fall onto the model ,dont spray direct onto model or you will get patchesof diferent shades. Any areas that need dark streaks can be acheived with pencil lead sanded to a powder and applied with your finger.If you apply too much it can be removed with some meths .Its not poisonous as some people think . Exhuast marks on war birds are usually a light grey colour again apply light coats of coloured thinners until satisfied When happy with the result seal it with coat of Tough coat fuel proofer . I mix up some matt and satin together to get that proper look . too flat or too shiny will look wrong. Good luck with the project
Nice Hurricane Gadyrdal Is it a DB ? What engine is fitted ? I have just built one for a mate Power is a dl 50 . I covered that with Brown paper and PVA. Panel lines were achived with either brown paper strip stuck on a or Sheets cut to represent the actual panels . Rear of fus was covered in solartex and all the camouflage is painted on using Spectrum enamel . its waiting for the detail and weathering at the moment but will hopefully fly this summer.
|Thread: Medway Model Flying Club|
Medway MFC new website address is www.medwaymfc.org.uk the link in the previous post will also work .We still have a few vacancies for fixed wing pilots, any age or experience welcome .
Thanks Timbo for editing the previous post
|Thread: Cleaning my OS 46LA|
Hello Nigel Bettaware oven cleaner or they may call it carbon remover will remove all traces of burnt castor given time . If your engine has a painted finish ,ei; blue LA or a red irvine it will strip it back to aluminium . If its already alumininum its the best stuf to use as it wont discolour the aluminium like Mr Muscle and some other products . you could also try a immersing the engine in Cellulose thinners and give it a brush with an old tooth brush or similar .Thats the downside of using castor oil based fuel . Use a good sythetic and your engine will wipe clean for years without need for brushes and chemicals . I wouldn't recomend using synthetic oil fuel in this engine especially if the piston is discoloured or laquered as the synthetic will clean away the laquer and the engine could loose its compression .
Whoops ! Have I started a Castor versus Synthetic debate again ?
|Thread: Fuel tank position too high|
Helolo Vecchio . Your conversion is coming along fine . I used 2mm ali plate to mount the carb on my engine as vibration could take its toll , but I extended it further so angle was decreased .
|Thread: Model Engineer Exhibition|
Rent and profit for the organiser probably .
|Thread: Engine to Silencer gasket??|
Use the epoxy method . Gaskets on glow engine exhausts are a waste of time as they keep on compressing and allow silencer to loosen ,leak oil or fall off. Apply a small /thin bead of epoxy around the engine exhaust and screw on the silencer . Make sure the screws have oil on them before you fit them . This stops the epoxy from locking the thread . It will form a perfect seal as it is gap filling ( no need to lap the joint) It will also stop the silencer from vibrating loose or falling off in flight and can easily be removed by unscrewing screws and give the silencer a sharp tap . It also conducts heat away from the engine into the silencer better than a gasket . I use the stronger epoxy like 24 hr Araldite as its thicker and will not run into the cylinder and fills any gaps better. Have been using it for years now with no problems . Hope it helps
|Thread: Convert to petrol?|
Hi Gerry . If you want a twin ignition system then Weston UK sell the Runtronic system It can be used for single or twin cylinder operation. I am using one on a CRRP 45 and its excellent . As said in previous post, the spark will take the route of least resistance and will probably only fire at one plug and that will be the one not compressed .
|Thread: Fuel tank position too high|
Hi Vecchio. It may cause problems if you leave the model standing for some time but I have used similar set ups and have not had any serious problems with flooding .You could fit a fuel regulator that will solve the problem . I believe Weston UK supply them .
I did have a prototype Corsair some years ago that had the tank much higher than the main jet and this really caused problems . I solved this by using an carb extention that I believe was in an article or letter in the RCM&E . It involves a plate made to mount on the back plate screws of the engine . The carb is mounted on this at the correct hieght and a alloy extention made to fit between the carb and the manifold . It worked extremely well but you really need the use of a lathe to make the extention tube . I used tufnol to make the extention tube . Best to try it first and see if any mods need to be made .
|Thread: Why don't we use metal propellers?|
I can imagine if metal props were allowed that it would only be a matter of time befor a seriously bent and stressed prop was staightened by a modelller trying to save a few bob . The insipient flaws/crysalised metal created during the bending would then allow the metal to fracure at high RPM with possible fatal consequenses. At least with glass reinforced props they just break and thats that, no chance of a tight wad trying a repair. The forces applied to a prop spinning at high RPM must be enormous and how we dont have many more accidents ammazes me . So lets keep away from the arc of spinning props and keep any old alloy props for display only please .
|Thread: New Bee|
The Mamselle is a really great flyer . I built mine from a plan supplied by a club mate. Powered it with a original Mills P75 . and fitted radio on elevator and rudder . Still flyi's during the summer and about seven years old now and on its second mills as first threw a rod . I fancied the larger version but never got around to it .
|Thread: The Mode Survey - what do you fly?|
4.once or twice with instructor then got on with it
|Thread: Convert to petrol?|
Hi Phil . The petrol engine will undoubtedly be better on fuel than a comparable glow engine but not as powerful. Generally the petrol engines are lower reving and produce most of their power between 8000 and 10,000 rpm. They will generally turn a much higher pitch prop than a glow engine as they produce more torque. If you want out and out power then go the glow route but if you want reliability and economy then petrol is the way to go.I fly a few petrol engines now on my bigger models but still use glow on the smaller ones . I have looked at the RCGF and thought it was a bit on the heavy side. I haven't actually run one as yet but have used the CRRP 26cc engine and thats great for little money. Why not ask on some other forums about this engine ? It is probably worth the time to chat before you commit to buy .
|Thread: crrc pro50i|
Hello Gary . I have the 45cc and its a very powerful engine Pulls an 86inch Eurobat vertical as long as you let it. Break in for that was 20 x 8 wooden and I'm still using it so a 20 x 10 should be fine for breakin and general use. Run the engine in on the plane ,as the movement of the airframe absorbs some of the energy . I run about a tank full at just under ful throttle with a 30 : 1 mix bringing the engine up to full temperature then stopping it and alow to cool down . Do this a few times with the first tank then fly it . I tend to break in the engines without the cowling so as to keep a good flow of air over the cylinder. I also found that If I used fully sythetic oil the exhaust was messy and performance was down. I started using Comma two stroke oil available from motor factors anthe exhaust is virtually dry. I have run mine for about three hours now and its runnin fine on a 40 : 1 mix . My son is flying a DL 50 cc he uses a 22 x 10 wooden on that . It develops serios thrust and again runs it on a 40 : 1 mix of Comma oil
hope it helps
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