Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: changing crystals|
Hi Shaun .The crystal is under the little oblong cover I believe on the bottom right of the TX. It pulls out and holds the crystal . they can be tight .Only use Hitec crystal with the Tx . Hitec rx's work fine with futaba xtal but not the Tx.
|Thread: SUPER TIGTE 40|
|Hi ya Dia geezer . The main needle should be opened about 2 1/2 turns for starting then adusted with engine running at full throttle to give maximum revs then opened one click so as not to be too lean. then tune the idle needle as described earlier|
Hi Ya . First check that the fuel nipple on the carb is pointing towards the front mounting screw on that side of the engine. If its not loosen the two screws slightly and it will turn easily. If thats correct then connect a clean piece of fuel tubing to the nipple and gentle suck and listen for the air going through the carb . now screw in the slow running screw , with the carb closed until the air stops . Be gentle or you will damage the jet or the screw . . Now undo the screw until you can just draw air through the jet ,this a starting point. The reason for sucking the air is to avoid spit going into the carb and blocking the jet. Now prime and start the engine allow to warm up and adjust for full throttle running .Close the throttle and allow to idle for a few seconds and open the throttle smartly . If the engine diesand sounds like its sucking air then richen the idle mixture by a 1/4 of a turn and repaet . If your engine splutters and smokes and gradually builds up speed then it is too rich . Close the jet (screw in) a 1/4 turn . When you are getting near to the correct mixtuure then adjust the mixture screw by 1/8th or 1/16th of a turn .
Failing that get a mate at your club to show you . Its easy when you get the knack and learn to listen to the engine.
|Thread: Ben Buckle Kits|
|HI Adamwhy bother with inferior kits. A friend of mine gave me a plan for a Mamsel some time ago . Simple and satisfying to build at a fraction of the cost of a kit ,if one was available. If kit manufactures cant be bothered why should we the customers be bothered to support them? hope you can sort it.|
|Thread: Clean I/C models|
Hi Look out at super markets and at Halfords for Windscreen de-icer .usually sold in spray bottles. They quite often sell them as bogof deals at this time of year . They contain alcohol that cleans away exhaust residue really well leaving your model clean and shiny and it doesnt attack the covering adhesive.
|Thread: CG Measurement Blackhorse Ultimate|
Hi I bought a Black Horse Ultimate at the Hop Farm Bring and buy this weekend. Bargain ! £60 with two didital servos, a Futaba 9255 and a spectrum digital and two Hitec 645 MG ! Has anyone tried to lighten the back end by changing the heavy metal push rods and tail plane supports ? Even with a 120 FS it seems tail heavy. Has anyone flown one with a 120 FS up front ,how does it go ?
|Thread: YS 45 FS|
|Hi Lee. I haven't seen the YS45 fs but have used the 63fs for some time now . They are fabulous! but do like at least 20% nitro fuel.|
Tank wise you need a good quality tank capable of taking the 10 to 12 psi they are capable of producing .Pro-build do a really good quality tank that will handle the pressure.I believe they are made by MK . The pipes are just pushed on and the have a small wire clip over them for extra sequrity. Some of the tanks available in local shops just arn't up to a YS . What cap 232 are you fitting it in ?
|Thread: Going petrol, help needed|
|Hi Adam .I have three petrol jobs A Zenoah 45,a CCRP (Jamara)45cc and a Mckay 30cc the Zenoah has a new style Zenoah muffler which I have modified the outlet a little. That motor is very quite apart from the inlet roar. The CCRP is a very powerful motor but agian has a loud induction roar. The Mckay is in a different class and was designed for model aircraft use .This is fitted with an incowl silencer (Krumshfeld I think) supplied by stuart Mckay and is very quiet on a 20 x 6 prop; that pulled a 15 1/2 lb Cap232 vertical without excessive noise. Most of the port induction motors I have owned have had a very loud induction roar and need the air to be drawn from an air box . Another thing worth thinking about,if your using 35 mHz radio, is setting up you radio gear with a ppm reciever and doing a range check ,with engine running ,to check for and eliminate interference from the ignition circuit. Do not fly with this set up.Only when satisfied fit a good pcm with failsafe .If interference persist then try fitting an opto-isolator between your Rx and servos .Apperently ,so I am told the servo leads can act as aerials and pick up interference .Thhe opto-isolators are available from SM services and not expensive .One last thing ,all my petrol engines have taken a lot of running in.Unlike model glow motors ,petrol engines can take hours hours and get better and better . Hope it helps |
|Thread: Acro WOT|
|Hi Stephen.Acro-wot is a great flyer.I am building one at the moment fo a club mate.The problems with split and lifting veneer on the wings is common,it seems , with current Chris Foss kits.Inspect your kit at the shop before purchase . Also replace the light-ply fire wall backing with proper birch ply if using anything more powerfui than a 46. Overall , a good flying model with no vices 10/10 .kit is let down by skimping on some materials 6/10|
|Thread: Matt finish on iron on films?|
|Hi Edward.I believe solarfilm is now available in matt finish|
|Thread: OS FS70 Surpass problems|
|Hi Peter you say you motor was laid up for a few years. Is it still in the original air craft ? or are you using your old fuel tank? The nitro methane used in model fuel attacks copper. The brass fuel pipes contain copper and the fuel eats this away leaving a very brittle and perforated pipes. This Could be the cause of your problem with eratic running .If you use fuel with any Nitro content ,change the tubing inthe tank to aluminium. A club mate had similar problems and when I checked the tank all the pipes were totally roten. |
|Yes Wow ! is that a road just behind the pilot ? !!!|
|Thread: Engine indentity?|
|Hi john Have a look in the gallery section .I posted a picture of my complete motor some time ago .It Is rare compared to the Comp special which it is based on. Unfortunately no parts are interchangeable other than the prop driver and spinner.Replica tanks and tank mounts are available . |
|Thread: Futaba Part|
|Yes a nicad/NiMh pack is available for your TX Most good model shops will be able to order yo one or even make a pack up for you. Overlander batteries or Weston uk will definately be able to help you.|
|Thread: What's the best tip you can offer to new modellers?|
|Join a club ! is the best advice I can give . A lot of new flyers have come to our club and told us how they have tried it on their own and smsashed up models , most, luckily without any serious accidents. A club will help yopu not only with the flying side but with all the knowledge you will need to set up your own model in the future . Good luck|
|Thread: Polygloop C|
|Hi Peter. Nasa is correct Poly-C is an alternative to epoxy resin for glass covering of sheeted structures.I havn't heard of it being used on open structures though . Dope is the best shrinking medium for open structures ,and probably a lot lighter. |
|Thread: Precedent Lo-Boy|
|Hi Bill .As far as i'm aware the Lowboy is no longer available. Why not try a free add in RCM&E or even on this forum . You could also try a wanted add on the BMFA classified section ,its free and thousands of modeller look at the adds. Good luck.|
|Thread: DeAgostini Spitfire|
|Hi Graham I have flown the DeAgostini Spitfire.I was asked to test fly one for a new member to our club.The model is really quite nice to fly ,but definately not for a beginner ! In the air it didn't seem to have any nasty habits and the stall was just a gentle mush.One critisism was that the Aileron torque rods being very long are twisty and suffer badly from blowback,making rolls very slow.I didn't experience any flutter mentioned in another post but this could just have been luck.It suffers the usual nosing over problems on take off and landing that this type of model attract. The model had been well made,by a novice flyer and completed with the radio and engine supplied by DeAgostini.Overaul the model flew very well and with a little tweeking will make a reasonable first low winger. The owner has bee advised to take the radio and engine out and intall it in a trainer type and save the Spitfire for later.Another club member is currently building one .I have advised him to fit a servo on each aileron to sharpen the roll response.As memtioned earlier you really will need some help with your first flights as it is totally diferent to a trainer. |
|Thread: WOT 4 AR(T)F|
|Hi David your right that No artf model can compere with the Wot 4 for durability and ruggedness .Hopefully Chriss foss will take these comments on board and remedy the fault that seem to be creeping in. |
|Hi David . I agree that cutting ,sanding and shapeing with lots of sawdust and mess IS what building planes like the wot 4 is all about. But poor quality is not acceptable especially when a newcomer can buy an ARTF far cheaper than a wot 4 kit. |
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