Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Darkest Hour.......|
An excellent film . Churchill a great man , whether you liked or disliked him was needed at the time . If all the other politicians had had their way things would have been very different for us
|Thread: Binding undercarriage using solder and wire|
Hi Doc I believe the Baker fluid is the same as " Killed Spirit"
Just looked on ebay and wow has it rocketed in price !! A tiny bottle anything from £13 to £25 !! should be re-named Bakers Gold
The main requirements for a strong joint hen making undercarriages are clean wire including the binding wire, enough heat for the job , a good aggressive flux .
Cleaning , as already said earlier use wire wool or glass paper. Don't use emery cloth ,wet and dry as they contaminate the surface of the wire. Make sure the binding wire is also cleaned before binding the joint. Tin the parts before assembly as this will make final assembly much quicker and stronger. Tack the joint with solder before binding and aligning can help .
Instead of using copper wire for binding a strip of tin plate can be used . This takes solder very well and makes a very neat strong joint on u/c joints.
A large enough soldering iron that can quickly supply the needed heat to the job. Using a flame can cause damage to the wire and overheat the job unless very experienced.
Flux. A good aggressive flux like Bakers Fluid is a great help . Don't use it on anything electrical or sensitive and wash parts in soapy water when job is complete. Flux cored solder can be used but make sure all parts are properly tinned before assembly.
Finally a simple jig that holds the u/c in position while soldering will help enormously.
Good luck let us know how you get on.
|Thread: Contagion, a film to watch|
No shortage of PPE in the films , or did I miss that bit ? The last UK pandemic exercise for emergency services was in 2016 I think ? Why wasn't the need for PPE for our emergency workers flagged as priority ? Probably money as usual !
Was it in Contagion that the powers that be intended to incinerate the Ebola hotspot with a bomb ? I hope that no politicians take any ideas away from that
|Thread: Flying through covid !|
Thanks for the link Mark . I tried for a while and gave up in the end.
One of our club members has really been affected by the lock-down
Its driven him to this !
Edited By Engine Doctor on 03/05/2020 11:56:11
|Thread: Abused Laser|
It amazes me that there are still modellers about who think it's ok to put a screw driver into a cylinder to lock an engine while they tighten the prop !!!! Similarly there are LMS ,who should know better that still sell piston stoppers that screw into the glow plug thread to lock engines while fitting props or clutches . Because these piston stoppers are usually all nicely anodised and sold by the LMS the un initiated think they must be ok . They will damage a piston often causing catastrophic failure .
Engine abuse is rife. I recently bought a load of used engines as spares or repair. Many had been mistreated but were saveable . One though is an absolute horror ! Its an Enya 90 fs It has had an alloy exhaust pipe welded to the head !!! And the crank shaft thread cut down for some reason. Prior to that it had been run on castor based fuel so looks like a welded chopped chip pan ! By
|Thread: Gorilla glue|
Gorilla glue original the brown stuff is excellent for glueing poorly fitting joints. Also good for fitting hinges, mending foam etc the list goes on. It sands very well and easily. The foaming action is powerful and can push any unclamped bits out of alignment.
Downside is that it sets by absorbing moisture so will go off in bottle quicker than other types of glues. Its also a polyurethane based glue and you can become sensitised by skin contact. Unless parts are going to be covered or painted it's a horrible brown colour so not very good for the average foamy model.
Not as strong as epoxy but a very useful glue to have with many uses.
For a little extra you can buy larger bottles of same type of glue from Axminster Tools but check setting times as they sell a slow and quick setting types . Both foam but again it can go off in the bottle so be aware .
|Thread: Petrol engine projects|
Hello Jeff . Parcel arrived and case looks good . Many thanks
Have sent PM to you.
|Thread: More thinners|
Agree with above . Standard Thinners used to be a decent reclaimed thinners and could be used for priming. first coats etc . lately its rubbish , full of rusty water and only useful for washing and de-greasing bits. Even tetrosyl has gone down in quality . Buy the decent top coat thinners to be on the safe side .
If you want old fashioned pear drop smelling thinners then Axminster tools sell it . It brand is "Chestnut " more expensive but doesnt have the nasty Toluene and Xylene that car paint thinners has
|Thread: adhesive for hinges|
Hi Tony .I Oil the pivot then wipe any excess oil off . The apply a tiny amount of Gorilla Glue in the hole and push the hinge in . Use tape to hold control surface in place and allow to set , about 20 minutes. Glue expands as it cures into the ridges on the hinges giving firm hold .Any excess can easily be picked off when fully cured.
The downside is that Gorilla Glue don't last too long once opened , up to three months if sealed properly . Gorilla glue clear is also good but doesn't expand like the normal stuff and take a bit longer to set up
|Thread: Saito 50 exhaust pipe and nut.|
Sorry for late late reply but have been doing all the things that get left in normal life like painting garden furniture,cleaning out the pond etc. Thanks for all the suggestions, especially the brake pipe nut . The pipe is an easy thing to make but. Like most of us n lockdown I'm going through stuff and thought I would ask first as there must be hundred lying around.
That's the one !
Hi all. Does anyone have a exhaust pipe and nut for an older Saito they no longer need ? I have an unused Saito 50 that I bought years ago that I have lost the exhaust for. Its the type with a pressure nipple but no silencer . Please PM if you can help .
|Thread: Propeller Fitting|
Many Electric props come with a set of washers/ spacers with different diameter holes through them to fit different sized shafts. These are inserted in the recessed part of the prop to hold the prop central on the prop shaft. Ease the prop to fit snug up against the prop driver and if it's loose on the shaft fit one of the washer / spacers for snug fit .
Edited By Engine Doctor on 21/04/2020 10:12:09
|Thread: RC IC Engines, you've probably never heard of.|
An interesting and entertaining video of the early helicopter comps.by Peter. I am always amused how the pilots follow the model as if its on an umbilical cable ,its as if being nearer gives them better control
Edited By Engine Doctor on 20/04/2020 11:42:16
|Thread: cleaning cox 049|
+ 1 for that . 3 in 1 oil is corrosive and will do lasting damage ,it also sets like varnish . Two stroke oil is good . I also use Air tool oil for laying up. It doesn't set or dry out like many other oils.
|Thread: Poorly OS40 repair|
That a really interesting tip that I had never hear of before
|Thread: Anyone still using a balsa stripper?|
I still have one but have not used it in ages as its only any good on very thin stuff ,anything thicker and it didn't cut square. The last small models I built , a Frog 45 and a Auster both for Frog 1.5 power and 2 ch radio I used a straight edge and a scalpel .Any strips I need I now use my trusty band-saw .
|Thread: my MAX THRUST -VORTEX 400 *review* (new thread)|
Just a little beware for the Vortex.
If you choose to fly thr Vortex in Knife edge then be aware that the aerodynamic forces acting on the air-frame can cause the canopy to un-clip and eject !!. The model without its canopy fly's very differently and not very nicely . This has happened twice now to to two different flyers at our club , admittedly when the vortex first came out . So make sure the canopy has a secure fitting(front) to prevent it coming off or modify it .
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!