Here is a list of all the postings Nev has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Good news thread.|
Happy Birthday John.
|Thread: New Tv. It's Good But...........|
Thanks for the link BackinBlack. I spoke to them and ordered the free filter. lets see if it works.
Didn't realise this was such a common problem, I thought it was just me and my telly was starting to go on the blink. at800 confirmed there was a lot of 4G usage in my area and are sending out a filter. Nice easy fix if it works, I'll let you know.
Edited By Nev on 03/01/2019 19:51:49
|Thread: Mobile phones and flying, what are your thoughts?|
If the government introduces a FINS system to monitor drone flights / operations you will need your mobile / smart phone to log the flight.
|Thread: Government Consultation on Drone Flying in the UK.|
Completed. Took a couple of goes at it, some very similar questions but not too arduous.
|Thread: Anet A8|
Cut the plug off David, I did.
I use mine in a small space too.
I have it fastened down to a solid board, spare unit door, which does 2 things.
1 makes the whole frame more ridged, so better prints and
2 means I can shuffle it around a bit or move altogether if I need the space.
Well worth doing. Nev.
Hi Kev, BEB.
Before you do too much printing I would recommend you secure the wires coming off the hot bed somehow. When you see it in action, you will realise why, all that bending of cables will soon result in a broken track or wire and bad things will happen.
This works well for me, others have more elaborate solutions.
Its good fun once you get the hang of it but can be a bit frustrating until you do.
|Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI|
Electric for me.
I need to have a proper look at getting the batteries in and out.
|Thread: Printing a P47 Thunderbolt|
Well it turns out getting a decent surface finish can be quite tricky indeed.
To get something like a decent surface finish I have to print relatively slowly, also I have a small amount of “Z hop” enabled. I still get some slight thin spots at the start of an outer shell and after a retraction but at least now they are just thin sections not holes now.
The trouble is to get the sections to print in a reasonable time frame ( this wing rout section is one of the biggest at about 7 hours ) its having to print hot and the retractions are minimal, as a result extra filament is being dragged out of the nozzle as it travels from one section to another, resulting, sometimes, in a thin section at restart. I have found that the old version of Cura prints better than the latest version, with all the bells and whistles, even with exactly the same settings. Even the position on the bed has quite an influence, very frustrating, but then I am trying to do this with a budget printer to say the least.
I’m happier with the results I,m getting now though.
Its getting bigger
|Thread: Anet A8|
There are a few examples of the 3dlabpront models on the forum. I’m currently about half way through a Thunderbolt. Be warned it’s a slow process and it took me a few scrap pieces and tweaking to get anything near acceptable using my A8. The root section below is one of the biggest sections and is about 7 hours printing time at 0.2mm layer height.
I can print faster certainly but I don’t get as good a result. Even now I can’t get a perfect print but I’ll accept that on a £100 printer. if this one turns out ok I might have a go at a Corsair, haver fun.
|Thread: Printing a P47 Thunderbolt|
Hi Mal. Yes it’s good fun, just keep hiding the mistakes.
While checking all the settings I noticed the option to spiralise the outer layer was ticked in the supplied profiles, I turned this off and now get a much better prints, including the inner structure, still got the pesky holes at the start of the layers though.
Messing around with the retraction distance, even turning it off altogether hasn’t helped, like you say I think I need to prime the extruded a bit before the start of the layer. The version of Cura I have been using doesn’t have the facility to adjust the “Extra restart distance” I have downloaded a newer version which does but I need to play with it a bit to find everything.
I think I’m getting there though.
Having weighed the finished part at 25.6g, not far of the recommended 26g. So the flow rate cant be far off but will try at 105% to try and get rid of some of the surface holes. Speed down to 40mm/s, to hopefully get a better print finish.
An improvement but still a few holes, although these are more regular, at the start of the layers and the internal structure is rubbish, I think because it has to do a lot of retractions with only small movements. The default retraction distance is 0.7mm, I’ll try reducing this to hopefully avoid the stop start gaps.
These things are designed with a single wall but I take your point, will try upping the feed rate next time.
Bit of experimenting needed I think.
You get user guides and YouTube videos galore. The official ones stress ramping up the temperatures and the feed rate to get better layer adhesion as the shell is only a single 0.4mm thick. For my first try I am using some Prima Value PLA ( £16/kg Amazon ) which usually prints nicely at 200 Deg, so I have ramped up the temp to 220 Deg. Bed Temp up from my normal 30 Deg to 50 to help with adhesion and stop warping. The flow rate in the supplied Cura fuselage profile is 102% so we will start with that.
Well it printed but not great, full of holes like a Swish Cheese. About a 3rd of the way through printing I could see it wasn’t really usable so experimented a bit and turned the temp down a bit, to 210 Deg without any detriment so I think I will stick with that at the moment. The default speed is 60 mm/sec, which is a bit fast for an A8 I think so will slow that down for future prints.
Now I need to think about getting rid of the holes.
Going to have a go at printing one of the planes from 3D LabPrint. I have seen a couple of examples on the forum, so as I’m no expert in this at all, hopefully will get a few pointers if I get stuck. My 3D modelling skills are not up to it yet, so I paid my $20 and downloaded all the files for a P47 Thunderbolt, they have some impressive offerings.
You get lots of files for $20 (cheaper than buying a printed plan) .stl files for all the parts, example slicing profiles and a set of pre prepared .gcode files, which if you had a decent printer you should be able to load straight in. My printer is the popular Anet A8, firmly at the budget end of the printer spectrum. So I will be using the .stl files, the example Cura profiles and see what we get out.
This is by no means going to be a How To Do 3D printing blog, more of a Learning How to do it blog, to record what I’ve done. So please feel free to point out the mistakes.
|Thread: Show Us Your 3D Prints|
Initially by accident, I spiralise / vase printed one of these pilots. I soon realised what was going on but let it finish just to see how it turned out and despite the obvious holes surprisingly usable.
With a little lightweight filler, your Manfred turned out very good and only 5g including the balsa base, also at 1/6 scale. Nev.
Edited By Nev on 22/04/2018 19:51:07
|Thread: Anet A8|
I’m using Cura 14.7 with my Anet A8, which was the one recommended in the instructions. I keep getting messages telling me there in a newer version available, which I have so far ignored.
Is anybody using a later version, or indeed are people still using Cura, not that I know what else might be available.
The A8 is great for small parts, brackets and stuff. It will also print some quit large complicated parts but you have to be patient and not try printing too fast. The frame isn’t ridged enough for high print speeds.
And although it pains me to say it the pla from Ridged Ink is worth the money, very forgiving and good print quality but it’s twice the price of the none branded stuff from eBay and amazon.
|Thread: Fusion 360 for modellers|
In the end I used the split face command, very similar technique and YouTube video, to get my outline shape onto the surface.
I couldn’t form an even curve shape, so mine is pulled up from the surface and then heavily filleted. Maybe not perfect but I like it.
I’ll give that a proper look later but if I can get a plane in the right place it should work. I’ll have a practice on some simple shapes.
On a cylinder I would only need to draw it once and then use pattern to place the second, can I do that with my shape.
Ok this might be a tricky one. I’m trying to recreate this cowl.
After struggling to get my rails connected, I have managed to loft the basic shape and although it doesn’t look much, I’m happy with the profile.
Now the complicated bit, how do I now form the teardrop blisters. I appreciate you can’t give detailed instructions but would be grateful for any pointers. At least it might get me on a YouTube hunt.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!