Here is a list of all the postings Ian Jones has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Anet A8|
Well Martian, if you can walk away from your printer to the living room you are really making progress!
I'm just setting up a security camera for my printer, not in case the SWMBO decides to do a way with it, no, no, it's so that I too can sit in the living room and check now and then that that lengthy print is progressing okay.
|Thread: Thinking of changing my car|
For me it's a Mondeo too, big enough to...:
Think carefully, could end up with a total reversal...:
|Thread: Black Fly a new Flying Car|
If we can't just chuck a model in the air without regulation then these chaps will really be up against it.
It'll never take-off
|Thread: Bullet tape argh!|
It's that cross weave fibre glass reinforced stuff Tom. Often also referred to as CW tape (Cross Weave) as well as bullet tape..
|Thread: New caption competition|
Keep 'em coming Tom, you do stand a slim chance as I won't be entering this one .
|Thread: Bullet tape argh!|
First time I used the stuff was indeed on an Si Zaggi, to my surprise with good success. So without claiming to be any expert I'll tell you how I use the stuff (same method with the coloured tape too).
First of all clean the scissors thouroughly with meths and repeat this after every cut; a pain but clean scissors will make a huge difference.
Ensure there is no dust, hairs or any other such like debris on the model. Unroll suffient tape to overlap the length really needed, then lay it very lightly, zero pressure in place on the model. Carefully cut it free from the roll.
Now the tricky bit! starting from approximatley half way along the strip, smooth it down a few inches at a time, working outwards from any imaginary centre line. If the tape has been laid down without any pressure it will lift in front of the smoothing action like a barely visible mini wave. Take time and work along the tape towards one end then return to the middle and do the same towards the other end. Now the tape is place I then go over it again with a little more pressure to ensure it is properly adhered to the surface. I have found fingers the best equipment to use for the smoothing.
If for any reason I have to lift the tape after I've started to smooth it down then I throw the strip away - the process of removing the tape will have distorted it and it just will not go down nicely a 2nd time.
Well, that works for me, best of luck with your next one.
Edit: Oh, the the model concerned is in my avatar.
Edited By Ian Jones on 15/07/2018 19:27:04
|Thread: Your favourite 3 songs|
Another today list:
Old Brown Shoe - Beatles
While My Guitar Gently Weeps - Beatles
Broken Dream - Thunder version
|Thread: How many do you have in stock?|
Yup, I have an Overlander Tucano, Seagull Sparrow Hawk, Century Bell 222, Avro Vulcan sloper and a HET Blue Angels F16, all brand new and unstarted. There might be something else!
Everyone one bought in belief that they would flying within a few weeks.
|Thread: Holding Your Nose|
Not perfect I agree but it does give the nearest indication we can get of what might happen on climb out after leaving the ground. The object being to try and avoid an Engine Failure After Take Off.
|Thread: fav model of all time|
Rather than go too far off thread I'll point you towards all the information you need:
Thanks for your interest, Ian
Edited By Ian Jones on 05/07/2018 12:22:40
3rd model I ever bought, more than a few years ago now, a Ripmax Se5a. Flown it every year since just at the club or further af field, including a visit to (the 1st?) Delyn Scale Flying Competition, Greenacres and a BMFA scale day at RAF Shawbury.
I hold my breath every time I say the next bit for fear of tempting fate, it's had no crashes, no structural repairs just a new undercarraiage, still sports it's orpginal covering (though not for much longer TBH), the SC52FS purrs as happy as can be, it looks great and finally it's reasonabley aerobatic for what it is.
Delyn Scale Flying Competition:
All these years it just keeps on going, what more could I want.
A close second would be my Sportster:
What would I wish for? A twin turbine Sea Vixen, what else is there to wish for?
|Thread: Website Not Secure|
Only just come back to this thread, pleased to see the result. Thanks Beth.
|Thread: Difference between 2.4 module and 2.4 tx.|
Not JR but on a similar vane, I use several Hitec Modules (in Futaba & Hitec module type transmitters) and one "built in" Hitec Transmitter. With these I use genuine Hitec receivers, FrSky comaptible receivers, and Ikonnik KA-6 compatible receivers; all without issues.
The issues with the JR modules/transmitters seems very strange, has anyone else experienced the same problem I wonder. Are oreange receivers cheap enough to try out a new one as a test?
|Thread: New Drone Laws from 30/5/2018|
Sounds right to me.
That said, 400' is painfully low. Fly at 200' and pull in a large loop or go up for a good old multi rotation spin (bearing in mind the need to pull out well before the crunch) and it's easy to get up there. As for thermal gliding, 400' is nothing. I've tested all this with GPS telemetry and found it to be so.
I beleive a lot of the fun we freely enjoy at the moment could be affected in such a way that it just won't be worth doing.
I don't suppose they'll be any compensation scheme for those forced to abandon £K's worth of models & equipement.
I hope BEB's optimism turns out to be correct.
|Thread: Where do you stand when taking off?|
That's a good point too Geoff, learning how to make an aborted landing can't be done from behind the model and a take off has a lot of similarities to a low level abort, apart from the ground run of course.
I too wondered if, as Martin suggests, there's an element of "this is the way we've always done it"? Though perhaps Andy's comment answers the OP.
It would be interesting to hear from a NATS regular on this point.
As well as the safety issues already mentioned, which I totally agree with, standing behind the model gives the pilot an unusual view of his model!
At all times during the flight the pilot is (or should be), in the pilot's box and therefore is viewing his model from the same position. From that position he is controlling the speed and direction of the model and also from that position he has to conduct a landing, which unles it's a crash results in the model travelling along the strip in a controlled manner - similar to a take off. So it makes no sense at all to stand in a different place for take off.
It doesn't make any sense to me to teach a beginner to take off from behind the model then change his position to one he is not accustomed to later. I have found training beginners to take off from the pilots box no more difficult than training them to take off from behind the model, furthermore if a buddy lead is in use there's no tripping over the buddy lead when walking to pilots box. Progressing to learning to take off involves(for me at least) teaching ground handling first, from the pilots box, so again why take off from anywhere else.
Another point in relation to beginners is, who does the early take-offs anyway? The instructor does. If he does so from the pilots box then the novice is already becoming accustomed to that view.
Edited By Ian Jones on 08/06/2018 12:10:55
|Thread: Martyn's Dalotel|
Sunshine all around us, perhaps a bit draughty today though. Whatever the weather get the covering on, it's going to be a beauty,
|Thread: All change at RCM&E|
Disappointed to hear this news, you were making an excellent job as editor, however looking after your health, as I know very well, must come first.
Good luck with your future plans, don't pack up but keep them within your own personal limits.
All the best, Ian
Edited By Ian Jones on 29/05/2018 12:53:00
|Thread: Get rid of wiring!!|
Would be good but is this a demonstration of an idea rather than a working model?
For example what happens when RF signals are introduced into the equation - for our purposes essential.
Those servos don't just simply work, there's a control system which needed switching on for each one.
Still I hope it does come to something.
|Thread: The 2018 Transmitter Survey!|
Currently I use:
Futaba SkySport6 (simulator only)
Futaba 6EXA (simulator only)
Hitec Eclipse 7 (35Mhz and 2.4Ghz)
Futaba T8UAP (Hitec 2.4Ghz module)
Hitec Eclipse 7 Pro
The Hitec Tx's are my primary radios, the Futaba T8UAP I mainly use for sloping.
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