Here is a list of all the postings John Cole has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Repairing EPO with micro baloons?|
UHU Por is good for sticking EPO. ANy gaps: fill with anything light that Por will stick to: balsa, bala dust, micro-balloons... But not EPS as it's so fragile.
|Thread: Selecting a Ubec|
HobbyWIng FunFly (was Pentium) 40A ESC has a switched-mode 5V 3A BEC which I think will drive your servos very easily.
Bare airframe 1.15 kg. Plus LiPo, servos, ESC, Rx, motor, prop, mount....... At 250W I it will look pretty sitting on the runway with the prop whizzing round. But will it take off? Maybe think about a heftier set-up.
Also, if it's a straight conversion of the powerplant then you MAY be limited to IC-sized props. Maybe better with a bigger prop and longer U/C.
|Thread: 3S to 2S Balance leads|
Before you spend any more money I should just check exactly what socket you have on your charger. I did a quick search and it did not seem that it has a JST-XH on it at all. I should check the pin spacings (XH is 2.5 mm) and the location grooves to match the location/polarity ribs on a JST-XH connector..
|Thread: Selecting a Ubec|
If you are converting an old IC model then it seems likely you'll need a powerful ESC. Powerful ESCs often have switched-mode high-capacity BECs that will easily power your Rx and servos. What ESC are you using? Do you have a meter to test current draw from the BEC?
|Thread: Charging lipos in advance or not.|
Simon: the technical data iin the handbook is in 3 sections, each dealing with one type of Li ion rechargeable cell. The first section is specifically about LiPos. See the section title:
"2-5-1 Polymer (UP383562)
This refers to hard-cased LiPos, not soft-packaged ones like we use, but the chemistry and therefore the characteristics are the same.
If you are going to store your LiPos ffully charged or a long time, it's good advice to keep them COLD as this slows down the capacity-reducing process. Don't worry about freezing them. They CAN'T freeze. And yes, Sony recommend storage at 3.3 volts and that's a LONG way above the discharge-voltage that kills them (about 1.0 volts / cell - see section 6.1.2). This manual is the only place where I've seen the "killing" process explained - see section 4.2.2.
|Thread: Parkzone Ember Reciever|
A few UK shops seem to have it such as SHOP
|Thread: 3S to 2S Balance leads|
What I think you need is a 2S (3 wire) balance lead extension and a 3S plug. Then remove the pins from the 2S plug and insert them into the 3S plug. Get these from Component Shop
|Thread: Servo replacement for acro wot foam e?|
Maybe if you post the measurements of the existing servos...
|Thread: Looking for something small and slow enough to fly in my front room|
The plane spcifically advertised as a living-room flyer is the Carbon Butterfly from Plantraco. It weighs just 3.6 grams and comes in a robust case. If you watch the video then you will see if flies quite quickly. I think suggestions of any larger plane (with a higher wing loading) are optimistic.
|Thread: Hi all - help needed with indoor model|
The voltage range of the 6300 Rx is 3.5 to 9.6 volts according to Spektrum so that may be the problem on 1-S - depending on where the Rx power is coming from. The 6400 is marked as specifically for 1-cell use and has a range 3.2 - 4.2 volts. Maybe try a 2-S?
Edited By John Cole on 10/11/2012 12:39:05
|Thread: Hobbyking Super Cub EP1870mm Motor ESC HELP!|
PeteB: I agree with your comments but would add that there are 2 completely different typedsof BEC. They are called Linear and Switched mode. Your comment about high-S voltages creating lots of heat is correct for Linear mode BECs but not for Switched mode ones. Linear ones act just like a variable resistor, so most of the energy going into the BEC circuit is just thrown away as heat.. So Switched mode ones are normally what you find on (non-Opto) ESCs designed for say 4S or above.
And I like HobbyWIng too. But it's several years since they called them Pentiums (I think Intel complained!). They are now correctly referred to as HobbyWIng FunFly though you do still see the old name used.
|Thread: Small servos|
These are both good answers, but if you want a recommendation on an alternative servo then it would probably help if you say WHY you want to switch away from 3003s. If you explain what you are looking for that's different then you may get a wider range of answers.
|Thread: Paint adhesion enhancer for foam.|
Whay are you using a water-based paint? EPO is expanded polyolefin; polyolefins are more likely to wet with an oil-based paint.
|Thread: heard of silvertone radios?|
kc: look at Silvertone and you'll see they offer 27,29, 35, 36 & 40MHz. But not 2.4 GHz.
Frank: snap, and I saw them first!.
p.s. Radio South are in Brunswich, Georgia, USA
Not sure if this guy is still in business but I think he might fit a 3-axis stick (Tri-stick) to any new Tx. If he's not then you can probably find someone else offering a similar service.
Never heard of it! 3-axis sticks were moderately popular many years ago but seem to have dropped out except for some PC joysticks.
I note that the Mk 22 is not marked as available on 2.4 GHz. Do you really want to invest in 35 MHz? And of course no computer = no model memory, no exponential...
You should of course check for CE certification. I note that the leading review is dated 1998.
$A 545 is a LOT for a basic 6-channel Tx. About £350, and then you have to add on VAT ( less 10% Australian GST) taking it to about £400. And you may have to buy their Rx to match modulation.
|Thread: Enya Website Q&A|
Colin: THIS is how you should post a link. Put the text in - "THIS" in this case, highlight it then use the link button. That way you don't have part of your message hidden by the adverts.
|Thread: Back after a few years break|
As well as your tx and Rx your will ned a Tx/Rx charger, and battery for your Rx and a switch. You will also need some servos: 2 if your glider is a rudder / elevator design.
I like the (green) Instant batteries for Vapextech.co.uk and bear in mind that you may need to replace the Tx battery too. I am not familiar with Hitec gear; note that it is essential that you have the correct plugs with the right polarity. I hope a Hitec user will advise you correctly.
Servos: if you have a rudder/elevator design then you will need 2 servos. Your glider may well be designed to take standard-sized ones such as the HItec H-311. But it might be better to buy smaller "mini" ones such as the HS-81 as they are lighter. But not micro ones (HS-55) on a 60" glider - too small. Any make of servo will work, and if you plug them in the wrong way round then they just don't work: no damage is done.
Edited By John Cole on 06/11/2012 12:07:49
|Thread: Electric v IC|
If your first plane after being out of the hobby for sevral years is a 27" span built-up balsa Spitfire then I don't think it matters which you choose. It will be destroyed in a crash on its maiden flight!
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