Here is a list of all the postings Manish Chandrayan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: S1581 Hawker Nimrod MkI|
Another idea for the measurements involved for tail to wing tip and elsewhere.
Use telescoping carbon tubes to measure the distances. Just tape the telescoped joints and and another piece of tape to approximate distance of the tip (this enables pencil marks to be visible). Zero stretch during measurements
|Thread: Aileron differential|
Thankfully it's much easier to do it mechanically. Especially if emulating what the engineers at De Havilland
Yes Martin I too think so
My question had arisen from the fact that in my smaller Tiger Moth, I have used rudder and ailerons during the turns ( same side ) and then sometimes have had to reverse the rudder input to keep the nose from sinking . That is initiate the turn with rudder ( due to dihedral secondary effect is bank) smooth out the bank with same side ailerons and if the nose starts to drop lift it up by releasing the ailerons and applying opposite rudder.
I do know that cross controls if not done properly are a surefire way to where a spin or snap
Thank you all for some interesting discussion
Yes that's right and that's how I have set up my current quarter scale Moth. I have just 1/4" down while the up travel is limited (yes it has more available) to 2 1/2". And just like the full scale by the time the upward movement is reached the down going aileron has come back to almost neutral.
A very basic question. Do you apply the rudder first in the direction of the turn and then the aileorons or first bank and then apply rudder in opposite direction to keep the nose level?
|Thread: South Herts Glow Switch|
Aeromodeller are not different, just plane people
|Thread: TN large scale Wellington Bomber|
Rates = Days
Ha! not exactly 365 Scott. You got to factor that during monsoon it pours and then the peak summers are scorching.
But barring these yes we do have plenty of rates l days to fly. On the downside it cuts into your building time
Thank you Scott. That helps. I am located in India so don't have to worry about the 20kg limit. But building light and saving weight can't be bad.
Thanks Scott. Will drop an email to Dave.
How long is the fuse? I was thinking of splitting the fuse if it would pose a problem in transport.
Thanks Stu. Will check that thread.
Thank you. That's great
Resurrecting an old thread in the hope that I may see some light
I am planning to get the short kit from SLEC for the 13' Wellington. I believe the undercarriage was done by Unitracts.
I have tried contacting Unitracts multiple times but to no avail. Does any one know of any other source for the retracts for the 13' Wellington by Tony Nijhuis please?
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Jet Provost & Folland Gnat|
Nice! pair there Tony .
Gnat will be my first choice and may be I could make some cosmetic changes to the Provost to make it resemble HAL HJT 16 Kiran
|Thread: wire rigging|
If in need of turnbuckles look up here. Available from M1.2 to M3 thread size, different lengths and with loop or slot ends
Edited By Manish Chandrayan on 22/04/2019 09:31:10
|Thread: Holding screws in|
I am assuming that canopy needs to be removed frequently, either to change the batteries or access equipment inside.
I am also assuming that the original screws that were on the model and one of which bailed out was metal M3.
This is a common occurrence and Locktite, nail varnish etc do not work in this situation. My way of avoiding the screws bailing out is to use nylon screws instead of the provided metal ones. Once snugged in they remain snug.
Other option is to remove the existing blind nut and epoxy a nyloc nut. This will allow you to use metal screws but the torque required to loosen or tighten the screw may dislodge the nyloc nut
|Thread: Y - O - Y - O - Y|
Some more info to mull on. The info is taken from here
H25T Hitec Standard Spline (25 teeth)
At this time, Futaba manufactures servos with 4 different splines. When choosing components to attach to your servo, it is important to know what size of spline your servo uses. Below are the four various splines. If you have any questions as to what spline your servo has, please check the servo page or contact us via e-mail or phone.
1F Spline (15 tooth)
2F Spline (21 tooth)
3F Standard Spline (25 tooth)
4F Spline (25 tooth)
|Thread: Zenoah 38 conundrum|
In the case I mentioned it was a brand new engine with brand new NGK CM 6. Having tried that you will atleast negate one more variable and it's easy to do
Martin, Have you tried a different known good plug? Won't be a major effort and might as well rule that point out.
I know you said it starts on a squirt of prime so has spark etc, but we had a weird experience were on a OS 33, original NGK we had fuel, spark etc and the engine would not advance once started. Few short seconds of running and then it would die down. We tried almost everything to the point of the owner deciding to sell off the engine. And then on a hunch I fished out an Rcxel i had in my caddy, installed on the engine and it ran as if asking us all what was the fuss all about?. I have also had experience of other way round where the Rcxel plug had me frustrated for few weeks till I pulled it out and replaced with a NGK.
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