Here is a list of all the postings shades has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: RC Lander distributor?|
At the moment there is no UK dealer. A real shame as the Lander EDFs are still the best in that size range in my opinion. I have the Couger and a full house F16. A mate of mine was recently (last week) looking for spares after a heavy arrival, for his Panther. (From HK, and yes, it is genuine Lander) He contacted Lander directly through Tim Wan, the owner of Lander, and he said, as there are no UK dealers, he could send parts directly from the factory. How good is that!? And postage was very resonable. Hope this helps.
|Thread: Hobbyking delivery times|
As one Andy to another, I have ordered from HK in Japan, Germany and UK. After placing your order, it always says postage upto 45 days. This is the time you have to allow before you can complain your order hasn't turned up. This is obviously to stop 10,000 impatient modellers a day from complaining their order hasn't arrived after a week.
I find that orders arrive 7-8 days on average. I've had orders within 2 days in UK, 3 days from Germany, even 8-10 days from Japan. The longest delay I had was when it arrived in UK from Germany in 36 hours, but it took 8 days for my local courier, just 9 miles away to deliver it to me.
|Thread: What electric flight battery connectors do you mainly use?|
Like many I started with deans, but after a couple of failures and a mate actually crashing a plane from Deans failure, I am gradually switching to XT60s, certainly on current loads more than 40amps. What I find is that the spring plates gradually flattens out and eventually contact becomes intermittant. A good clue to this happening is if you hear the esc re-initialise again after you've already connected moments before. Also if you wiggle the two connected plugs, and the esc bleeps again, this is a sure sign failure will happen soon.
4 or 5mm gold connectors are probably the best for reliability, but there is a greater risk of mis-connection and shorting out.
What convinced me originally was when I was flying a Lander Panther EDF. On making a distant long turn to the left, I suddenly lost all power and control. Luckily the Panther continued in a long sweep round in a perfect glide, and as it came close to me I regained power. I got her down in one piece. On inspection I found that if I touched the deans connector, the esc re-initialised.
|Thread: TopGun A-10 Tankbuster|
Hi Richard, yes static voltage is a good guide. (11.1_3 ceIl, 14.8_4 cell etc. I think that leaves 20%. It doesn't matter if you go over this sometimes, but batteries will last longer if you don't. Bare in mind of course that the voltage is considerably lower when under load. ie when flying.
Which B17 do you have? Send me some pics if you can.
Welcome to the world of pre-built models from iffy manufacturers. You are having exactly the same results as I did. That is another thing on the list that I have replaced/getting prepared to replace, the retracts. They are very week. Also what happens is the little metal rods,(I use the term "metal" loosely), that they pivot on, can bend very easily, which makes the retract servo stall.
What battery are you using? The standard 2200 it comes with is pants. I use a decent quaility 2650 which will give significantly more power, but the take off run will still be a fair old run. I have persisted with mine as it looks good and flys well. And I just wanted an A10. I've probably spent as much money on it now as it cost in the first place.
I found a place on the Web that supplies spares for the A10, where I got a complete retract set from. I am replacing them as each one brakes. I'm still waiting for a chance to fly mine again after my last round of mods.
|Thread: Weston Park 2012 chat, feedback, thoughts|
I always enjoy the Western Park show as it has a happy and close to the action atmosphere, helped, in my opinion by good ol' DB Sounds. He always makes me smile.
But it was very dissapointing when the Euro fighter and the Arrows failed to show, particularly as DB had built it up so much. "It's the RAF you know, they're never late". To make it worse, we were all watching the Euro Fighter circling around the site, but about 3 miles out, then we just hear it performing over Cosford. I realise that the show had no control over this, but as said earlier, it would have been nice to be told that it wasn't coming after all. Still, I won't hold it against DB. Keep up the good work.
All in all, I enjoyed it.
|Thread: TopGun A-10 Tankbuster|
I also use the Turnigy servo regulator thingy. You're right in saying it should control all three retract servos. mine works great. The speed being fully adjustable from snapping up/down to, ( if I remember correctly), not moving at all or anything in between. One channel is reversable only. You only need one to be reversable because if two servos move in the wrong direction, you reverse the channel at the transmitter.
Try connecting the offending leg servo to a known working out put. If it still doesn't work, then it's probably the servo failed. Which wouldn't surprise me at all. You've probably already read my postings above, decribing the grief I've had with the electronics. We shouldn't really encounter these failings but it seems a fact of life. I am now rarely tempted to buy prebuilt all in models. But to be fair, there are now some excellent stuff around. FMS being one. The only reason I went against the grain in the first place, was because I was desperate for an A10, and that was the only one around at the time.
What you describe above sounds about normal for this model. The electronics are basically poor, or I was particularly unlucky. I have repaced all the gear servos with HS65 metal geared. I have also completely re-engineered the front leg steering and controls. The standard one has only a few degrees of travel before binding. And as you say has huge amounts of play. I found that the nose wheel would retract ok on the ground, but the servo isn't powerful enough when in the air. The only way it would retract completely is to fly inverted while accending steeply and then hit the gear up switch just as it reaches the peak of the climb.
I am still waiting to fly it again since the last series of modifications to the retracts.
The C of G on mine is around the 65mm mark. Which is in fact right on the wing spar. This seems about right when flying. I would recommend flying airing towards nose heavy, rather than tail heavy, then fine tune it to your own taste. The elevator is still very sensative at 65mm though.
When it does fly though, it's great. Good luck.
|Thread: Grrr ... this makes me so mad!|
Hi Eddie P,
I don't know how you came to post your question here as you 'aint in the right place, but it sounds to me like you are nose heavy. 12oz of fuel is pretty heavy if your C of G is already forward. I would post in a more appropriate place and the wiser fuel burning people will know more about it than me.
|Thread: TopGun A-10 Tankbuster|
As a follow up, I must agree that it was/is worth the effort. I finally got to fly it properly. I must say that the A10 flies great. After softening the elevator it is a pleasure to fly. Mind you it was only 3 mins and one leg got stuck down.
Now I'm in the process of changing the other retract servos for proper ones and will be using 2650mAh 40c batteries. The thrust is comfortable over 1:1 with the new batteries so should be awsome to fly next time I get the chance.
|Thread: Deans Plugs and Noodle Wire|
I find a lot of people complain about Deans being stiff to disconnect. I had the same problem when I first started using them. Infact, I used to carry one side of a broken prop to lever them apart. Then I discovered the obvious course of the trouble. When soldering the wire on, especially the larger gauge stuff, so much heat is generated that the plastic starts to melt, and as you push down on the soldering iron, the terminals move slightly.
The easy cure to all this fuss and frustration is to simply connect the 2 Deans together before soldering. Therefore the 2 pins stay perfectly in line. I have done this umpteen times and have never had a problem since.
|Thread: Panther F-9F Starmax v Lander|
Why don't you just programme in flaps on your ailerons? That needs no extra weight and then you have the option. I find that with about 40 degrees of down, it glides in at a nice speed. The flaps seem to give more lift at slow speed rather than actually slowing it down. There isn't any more hinge clearance to allow more flap. Less flap is needed if landing into 10mph wind or more.
With 4 cell 3700 35c the performance is fantastic, but as you say, 4 mins is max at full throttle. I have flown it with 5000mAh, it seems to fly almost as well, but takes a tad longer to get up to speed. I always hand launch mine with no probs. The sound from the alloy fan is brill. Don't bother fitting the supplied retracts, they are a joke. Far better to save the weight and have better performance. Also you won't need a seperate BEC as you only need 4 servos (with rudder). With full house you need at least 9 servos. IMO a bit over the top for such a small plane.
|Thread: Grrr ... this makes me so mad!|
Yes, there are solutions to this, like copy & paste etc, but it is still an infuriating problem. It happened to me a few minutes ago, I was going to complain, when I found this thread.
If you rarely post on here, you can't always remember wierd idiocyncratic things. It just shouldn't happen. BTW, I use IE 8 on Win XP. Probably the most popular set up there is.
|Thread: TopGun A-10 Tankbuster|
Thanks for your replies Alan & Mark,
I spent ages trying to get all three retract servo throws correct, but the centering is so bad that one of them always buzzes. The one that failed lost drive internally. When I opened it up I found the gears weren't even inline with each other. I fixed it for a while but then it seized completely. I quickly decided to replace them with HS65 MGs. It was then I discovered the reversing problem. I am currently waiting for a Turnigy servo regulator/reverser. This has the advantage of slowing the servo action down as well as being able to reverse one of them.
I was interested to note that you had queezed in a 3000mAh lipo. The supplied 2200 20c is weedy to say the least, for a twin EDF. On the only flight I managed it lasted barely 3 minutes, but that probably wasn't helped by the problems I mentioned in my previous post. Even so, with the current being drawn it would soon kill a 20c battery.
I am also waiting for a couple 2650mAh 40c lipos. A good compromise between power and weight.
I bought a desert camo one way back at the LMA indoor show. I had a few probs and I've still only flown it once.
First, during the first flight one of the fans was making a right old racket and was rubbing on the shroud. I found that the motor had no front bearings. To be fair the guys at Vulcan hobbies did replace it for me free, but took a while for them to get one.
Second, for weeks the weather or work got in the way.
Third, when I finally got to try it again, it couldn't find enough power to get off the grass field, and finally got bogged down in a wet patch. After some testing, I found that one motor, the other one this time, was down on power. It turned out to be a crap ESC. This I replaced with my own money. Somewhat tricky as the bright sparks at the factory had glued the narcell halfs together.
Fourth, one of the so called metal geared retract servos seized up so I am replacing all three. After all that, the weather has stopped me flying it as I don't fancy doing my test flight in strong wind. I am still not put off though, I must just have been unlucky. I will get it in the air one day.
Glad to hear that you are both having success. It does boost my confidence in that I'm not wasting my time pursuing it.
|Thread: The Mode Survey - what do you fly?|
I fly Mode 2
I fly in the South West. Gloucestershire
I learnt in the South West
I learnt from an instructor.
|Thread: Whats the Best and Worst plane you have ever flown?|
Well, this is a really interesting thread. As I read through, I don't think the same model was mentioned more than once. So totally useless as a quide to anyone looking for what to buy next. Still great reading though. So, to buck the trend, I also think the Multiplex Blizzard is probably my favourite plane so far, out of the twelve or so I have. You can fly it staggeringly fast or really slowly. It is so versatile.
|Thread: Aeroplane Dollys|
|I entirely agree, Kelvin. Although when I flew my E-flite P38 for the first time I hand launched it. Then I fitted the U/C and continued to do ROG. I know that's kinda' backwards, but that's just me. I've since removed it again as it flies faster and smoother without it. I just love doing proper take offs and landings, but the P38 doesn't look right with its legs hanging in the breeze.|
Hand launching seems like a simple and good idea. I beg to differ! I have done many ROG and hand launches, usually successfully. However, when you commit your lovely model to the air by chucking it, there is no way of knowing how it will react, especially if you are launching it yourself. I have seen my mate, very recently in fact, hand launch his one off colour scheme Ripmax Spit' for the first time. It ended in total destruction not 10m in front of his feet.
The trouble with hand launches is that there is total commitment instantly, and not always enough time to react the right way. It is a bit like someone handing you the transmitter just before an imminent crash. If you must do this, then get a mate to help you.
Once you have flown the plane and trimmed it, the next launch should be safer. Also of course, a lot depends on the power and weight of the plane. I also witness a Twister EDF with nearly 800watts of power lumber into the air on a regular basis, and is a case of holding your breath as it nearly skims the grass, (and sometimes does) yet probably touches over 100mph when up to speed.
Ok, my comments are light hearted, but I do suggest you get someone to help you on your first attempt at least. Happy launching.
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!