Here is a list of all the postings G1940 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: DB 60" Sopwith Pup|
I won't be adding to this thread and all the images have been deleted.
|Thread: FrSky Neuron ESC|
Blimey, that's good to hear. I hope I get mine back repaired (or a replacement). It's the reason I buy expensive stuff from T9 but this is the first time I've had to test it.
When I phoned them a couple of days ago I was asked if I'd connected the battery with the right polarity. It doesn't actually say + or - on the case but I assume the red electric goes to the red wire and vice versa
|Thread: how to get the plan onto the wood!|
It's definitely the easiest way. I get a couple of copies of the plan and ruthlessly cut it to pieces ... in a good cause.
|Thread: Your experience of Banggood delivery time?|
I've found Banggood to be fairly slow on delivery (3/4 weeks) but the items are coming from China. I've had V911 helicopters and indoor quads for winter entertainment as well as a few tools.
Last year I bought a small quad complete with FPV and goggles which wouldn't bind to the supplied small transmitter. I contacted them about the problem but didn't get a reply - then I checked my spam folder and the replies were there. (can't think why because I get regular emails from them). They replaced the transmitter and I got anothe quad as well (without the FPV goggles which worked well from the start). IIRC the whole thing was £50.
I find Banggood live up to their name with reasonable good value items and, as I found, good custaomer service.
|Thread: Club badges|
|Thread: Orchestra on your patch|
My favourite piece of music to be played whilst flying is John Cage's 4'33". I play it all the time when I'm cycling and most of the time I'm in my workshop.
|Thread: FrSky Neuron ESC|
To add to my Horus update woes (now cured - I think) my Neuron was dead when I tried it yesterday. No BEC voltage so the receiver didn't work. I tried powering my recever separately (after disconnecting the middle pin on the connector) but still no joy and it was getting slightly warm. Contacted T9 and I posted it back this morning, hopefully for a replacement under guarantee.
|Thread: Andy Symons PR on Countryfile|
Andy stars again! Very good image and he used one of my favourite hacks - A Riot . It was good to demonstrate that model aircraft don't bother wild life with red kites happily mingling with the gliders on Ivinghoe Beacon. The last time I was there was for a tandem hill climb a good few years back
|Thread: Solarlac Dark Red|
Depending on what you need it for, you could try taking a colour sample to B&Q and getting them to mix a sample container of Valspar paint. I did it for my current build and got a 250ml tin that's a perfect match for my Corsair blue Oratex for a mere £3. I doubt if it's fuel proof but perhaps a coat of clear fuel proofer afterwards might do the job. If your model is electric (or a glider/PSS) then it would be a perfect solution. Worth a try?
|Thread: Flair Bristol F2B Fighter Biplane|
The shop that used to be Staples in Derby but is now another company but looks the same, copies drawings while you wait. The machine it big with continuous paper so can be any length. I've copied a few drawings there so I can cut them up to make them easier to manage during a build. I assume any large stationery outlet of a similar type would have similar facilities.
In Derby it's next to PC World in the Meteor Centre on the north side of the city just off the A38 so easy to access by car.
Yes, me too. I think they've done a great job. I renew through my model club but I did the CAA £9 'contribution' through the portal with no problems. I also made a small contribution to Buckminster partly because I enjoyed the RCME fly-in so much, so congrats all round from me.
|Thread: DB 60" Sopwith Pup|
Thanks for the paint suggestions.
I went to B&Q with my roll of Oracover Corsair blue and it was scanned by one of the staf. I came away with a 236ml tester container of Valspar interior silk paint which matches the Oracover very well. I've used Valspar before and I like the water wash for brushes. I sprayed my Tiger Moth cowl with it using my very old and very cheap single action Badger airbrush. I've had it for years and it's far easier to use than the much expensive double action Iwata which I've never had much success with - probably my fault because I've always tried to use ordinary paint and suffered regular clogging.
I also bought a small tin (250ml) of Fortress white special metals primer which the label claims is suitable for non-ferrous matals, including aluminium. I've done a preliminary trial brush painting first the primer (after cleaning the metal with fine wire wool) and then the Valspar and it seems to stick quite well. It's water clean up, too. I'll spray both when the time comes. The match is as good as I'm ever likely to get. It also helps that fuel proofing isn't an issue.
Not huge progress on the model itself but I've fitted the cowl and changed the securing screws with 3mm machine screws by fitting 3mm T nuts to the mounting blocks. It looks like I'll be putting some lead in the cowl on the "engine" mounting 3mm plywood disc so I need the cowl/ firewall fixing to be as strong as possible.
I've also fitted the ply side panels to the front sides of the fuselage:
As you can see, Velcro battery straps come in very handy here.
The supplied 0.4mm ply are ready cut to shape to go round the wing leading edges but some trimming is needed because of the tapered shape. There is very little wriggle room because the parts are barely big enough. In the end I used some 0.8 mm ply from my stock, fitted it over size and trimmed it after glueing.
It's obviously heavier but it's mostly in front of the CoG so it's not really an issue and it's a bit stiffer and stronger in a vulnerable part of the model that could be damaged by transport or handling.
I tend to seize up when building and get to a tricky but inportant part that I'm not sure how to tackle. I put off the job for a while and find a displacement activity (eg buying paint or just reading ). That's the main reason for the gap in updates.
Next job is manufacturing elevator and rudder horns from 1.5mm fibreglass board for the closed loop. Then it'll be fitting servos.
PS Just realised the picture is a mirror image! It happened when I rotated the picture because I took it with the camera in portrait orientation I don't suppose it matters btw they are Eachine straps in case you're puzzling.
Edited By Geoff Sleath on 13/12/2019 17:58:19
|Thread: Bespoke water slide decals|
It's OK if you're an artist, I guess, but I'm so far from that I expect my efforts would look dreadful. My Sopwith Pup scheme has a Kiwi on the sides which I'm aiming to do wite with painted detail in black which I think I may be able to manage but the numbers on the tail are black with a white outline and I'm wondering how to do them. The roundals have a white outline, too to make then standout against the blue fuselage. (see my thread here to see what I mean)
It'll be a few weeks before I get to the point of doing the detailed finishing touches but it's getting closer.
|Thread: Easy Built Models Ryan ST|
Thanks, Bob. I've just ordered 10 more blocks ready for next build They look to be identical to the ones I have already.
No, sorry I don't. I bought mine at Cosford last year (probably from the same bloke) but he wasn't there this year or I'd have bought a few more blocks, too. I have 20 which is usually enough but another 10 would be useful.
|Thread: Help Needed for Kids Xmas Bike Modification|
You're right Max, my mistake. It's the fixed cup on the RHS that's LH thread on British bottom brackets. I really don't think it's necessary but, like a lot of things cycling, it's something that dates back over 100 years and difficult to change.
I did once have a left pedal unscrew whilst riding a newly built tandem. Fortunately we were going slowly up a steep, short bank and my foot, pedal attached didn't cause a problem as it hit the road; my stoker pushed us over the brow without my help
One thing I always did before flying with the bikes on holiday was make sure the pedals were free to undo for loading onto the aeroplane. That was back in the days when we cycled to the airport, stripped the bikes enough to satisfy the carrier, put the panniers and camping gear in a big cloth bag and enjoyed the flight. Not possible now.
I think removing the cranks and bottom bracket is an excellent idea to help a child learn to ride. I know I learned on our large backyard which had a gentle slope just freewheeling my fairy cycle.
You will certainly need to remove the chain (it wraps round the chain stays) which is easy with the appropriate tool if there isn't a split link. Cranks and bottom bracket are also quite easy to take off but again suitable pullers are needed. I'm sure a bike shop would do the job for a small charge - or for nothing if you'd bought the bike there.
I have all the tools and I'd gladly do it for you but I live in Derbyshire which is a bit far from you
PS most (all?) bottom brackets on full size bikes are sealed units these days (probably on childs' bikes, too) so there'll be no likely hood of getting dirt in. They still fit in the standard British bottom bracket shell (watch out for the LH thread on the LH side) so there's no problem with loose steel balls and cups and cones as a few years ago.
Edited By Geoff Sleath on 10/12/2019 13:14:27
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
I agree. I've bought some good stuff on eBay as well as selling things that I know have value for others but no longer do for me.
I've successfully sold a lot of my old motor cycle parts (magnetos etc), manuals (eg BSA Golden Flash full workshop manual) and clothing (I was amazed how much my pudding basin helmets fetched). I described a Barbour jacket I sold as so distressed it cried itself to sleep every night.
I've sold a bit of old Quad HiFi valve amplifiers andI really ought to get rid of the rest.
eBay's a great resource for recycling stuff rather than sending it to landfill.
However, as Peter says, this thread is often about the amazing and dubious rubbish people put on there and we have a laugh about it.
As you say definitely not a Super 60 but what is it? Excuse my ignorance but it looks like scale.
I never understand why sellers say so little about what they're selling on eBay. It's electric but no details of the motor, esc, battery size (probably 4S but could be more) or the retracts . AFAIK there's no limit on the number of words you use but an extra charge for more photos. Strange.
Charity shops are brilliant for modelling stuff, too ... sometimes. Last week I managed to source some ladies' soft thin leather gloves for £3 - the leather will be perfect for the cockpit edging on my Sopwith Pup. I think they're new unsold stock from somewhere. It's a shame to chop them up but I will. I also bought a slightly tatty copy of Alex Henshaw's 'Flight of the Mew Gull' (mainly about his record making flight from London to Cape Town) for a couyple of quid from a charity shop.
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