Here is a list of all the postings Geoff S has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Rubber motor lubrication|
I didn't think making a rubber band easier to wind/unwind would be so controversial! I should have known better
Pity I didn't think earlier, George. You could have tossed me a small sample yesterday when we surveyed our possible new site.
Thanks again everyone.
It's well over 60 years since I built anything with a rubber motor (after 15 everything took second place to motor bikes in the hobby field for a number of years ) so I'm somewhat out of touch to say the least. I just wondered about olive oil as it's readily available.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I've been looking into my kit stock for something quicker to build and found a Replikit Keil Kraft Nieuport free-flight rubber powered tissue-covered model. It's laser cut and I recall buying this and another (FW 190) when Replikit were selling off their stock years ago.
On reading the instructions I see the included rubber is supposed to be lubricated with castor oil, which apparently was a common stock item when KK supplied the original kits. It isn't now, for me, but I have loads of olive oil (I eat a lot of olives). Will that work?
|Thread: Which Airbrush and Compressor|
Thanks for that, Dennis. Perhaps I should try the Iwata again. I've long suspected that my main trouble with painting is impatience and that's probably true.
I have a Badger 250 like the one shown above. I just checked and I bought it in 1996 and it was £10.99 new from a local model shop. I've used it quite a lot with alll sorts of paint with very few problems but I prefer to use water based paint because clean-up is so much easier. It's really just a small spray gun rather than an artistic air-brush.
I also have a much more expensive Iwata double action air-brush which I've never had much success with (probably my fault) and I always seem to fall back on the Badger.
I have a Ripmax compressor with a filter I bought on eBay several years ago which delivers 21 litres/min ().75 cu ft/min) at a maximum pressure of 50 psi. It's OK but I suspect perhaps not sufficient for the Iwata hence my problems with it.
|Thread: Battery Hatch Query|
The battery needs to be as far forward as possible. I'd be surprised if the CoG was in the right place with the battery as far back as shown. If possible push the battery under the motor.
Don't rely on Velcro to secure the battery but but a small amount is useful to stop fore and aft movement. As you say, it can be extremely difficult to extricate batteries if there's a lot of Velcro. So a hatch as big as possible in front of the cockpit and minimal Velcro to stop battery slide with a Velcro strap round the battery that holds it firmly in place.
|Thread: Outdoor Workshop|
Also one thing to consider is the reason artists (and, incidentally, the coil winder when I worked) much prefer north facing light. I like sunshine as much as anyone but the south-facing windows in my workshop can be a pain because the big contrasts in light level make seeing what you're doing difficult when particularly low sun gets in my eyes.
I only mention it becase you said your garden is south facing so it might be an issue.
|Thread: VOLANTEX asw 28|
I'm not familiar with that transmitter but is there a set up option for it which allows you to set up the receiver channels? For example, the usual Futaba channels are: 1= ailerons; 2=elevator; 3=throttle ; 4= rudder which you would set up as AETR.
Because my first 4 channel transmitter was a Futaba, I've used that sequence even on my non-Futaba transmitters.
It doen't really matter which receiver channel controls which function as long as the transmitter controls are correct. So which transmitter joy stick runs the motor/rudder/elevator etc?
|Thread: Aurora 9x|
Most of my early experience of far eastern products were to do with motorcycles in the early 60s - Honda being the primary one. However their first small capacity modesl had astonishing performance for their size (eg 125cc Benly) and once they started manufacturing bigger bikes (450cc Dream) in 1965ish they demonstrated their quality and destroyed to a large extent the traditional Britsh manufacturers. Somwhow Spanish manufacturers managed to hold their own with competition bikes albeit with some British input (eg Sammy Miller and Mick Andrews)
I've learned never to underestimate the determination of new entrants to a market to succeed. That applies to aeromodelling products as much as (say) cameras or cars.
I've had Futaba, Micron (home built), Mutiplex, Spektrum and Frsky (my current and most used) transmitters. The only failure I've had that needed repair by the manufacturer has been my Multiplex 3030 which simply stopped transmitting on a cold winter day. Fortunately, the problem showed up when I was doing initial checks before flying. Multiplex replaced the RF board FoC which was good because it was over a year old.
The only problem with my Taranis has been those navigation buttons which are prone to come loose. No electronic problems at all not of my own making. My Horus X10 is excellent.
|Thread: Can I use an ESC & LIPO for BEC only?|
I've never done it but I can't see problem other than that you'll be carrying more weight than necessary.
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer|
Here's what I mean by using snake inners as closed loop conduits:
It's easy to thread the wires in from the outside and, perhaps just as important, easy to replace them if there's a problem.
My method for feeding closed loop wires through the fuselage is to use snake inner as conduits but make sure your choice of wire will pass through the small hole first. I've used it on both my 58" DB Moths (Tiger and Cirrus/Gypsy) successfully and on my unfinished 60" Pup. It makes feeding the wires through completely hassle-free for all 3 (rudder and both elevator halves).
PS of course the rudder closed loop on the Moths is outside the fuselage but all 3 of the ones for the Pup are fed with snake inner.
Edited By Geoff S on 30/06/2020 14:17:11
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
I notice it's advertised by an antique shop and they always seem to over estimate the value of model aircraft for some reason ... but £950 is a bit high even for an antique shop. It makes you wonder how overpriced the stuff is they sell that I have no idea of its value.
|Thread: Does anyone remember...|
Thanks, ED. That video certainly reminds me of Wayland's in Heanor but I was in my mid-50s before I was a customer.
Of course it isn''t
There was actual petrol rationing in 1956 (the Suez crisis) just after I'd passed my motorcycle test. I think I was allowed a gallon a week for my 250cc BSA C11 but I can't be sure of the amount.
The abolishment of Resale Price Maintenance (RPM) destoyed many small businesses, eventually my father's radio/TV/electrical (and other stuff, including firearms!). Bigger shops were able to sell at prices we were paying wholesale which caused a lot of controversy as long standing customers thought we'd been ripping them off. That, and the increasing reliabilty of electronic goods like TVs meant businesses like ours that provided good back-up service (I've repaired TVs on Christmas Day and served people at the back door with batteries for Christmas gifts) became less important, much like real bricks and mortar model shops now.
My first foray into model aircraft was at a local shop in Heanor, Derbys. Wayland's shop was run by Wayland more as a hobby than anything else. He shared the small cluttered premises with his wife who sold needlework/handicraft items. I built a Precedent Electrafly because I already had a 2 channel 27Mhz Futaba transmitter I used for model yacht racing (I built a 1metre yacht from a free plan and still have it). The rather odd method of using the elevator control to switch the motor on and off made it hard to know if there was power or not, which made for a disasterous flying experience for a new comer like me . Wayland was a lovely bloke who was a great help to me when I bought and built my first proper powered trainer though less so when he let me buy an MDS 40 for it (after all, how difficult could such a simple engine be to run?).
I think one reason modelling is less likely to maintain itself is the lack of shops like Wayland's and the help and advice that come with them.
|Thread: How Windy is Too Windy|
That's perfectly true in a steady wind but usually the stronger the wind the more turbulence you get from any nearby obstructions (as well as weather system turbulence generated thermally or otherwise) and the model certainly notices that.
Before I was forced to give it up (and eventually took up modelling) I was a passionate dinghy sailor/racer and so wind strength and direction figured highly in my perceptions. We raced on reservoirs and gravel pits mostly and that was noticeably trickier than sailing on the sea which we only did rarely, usually for national championships. However, the same thing happens with current. If the whole racing area is experiencing the same current it doesn't matter so much but huge gains (and losses) can be made if you misjudge tidal or other effects.
|Thread: Has anyone got a DB Tiger Moth plan|
I had a 58" DB Tiger Moth given to me. It was more or less complete and unflown but with no plan and a lot of mistakes in the build (I got it from the adult son of a friend who was competent but had never built a model before). I wasn't even sure it was a DB kit but Eddie who was running DB at the time was happy to supply a drawing at a reasonable price. Perhaps Richard, the current owner, might be prepared to do the same. He's been very helpful with my curremt build (probably one of the first of a new kit) so ne may well oblige. Try emailing him.
|Thread: Hanger Rash|
Yesterday I left the almost completed fuselage of my current build outside the workshop in the shade to give me a bit of space to finish the wings. When I went to get it back inside it had been in the sun (the earth moves ) and the covering (Oratex) had some wrinkles. Not serious and easily corrected but it puzzles me why. After all we use heat to shrink the covering when we apply it so why does leaving it in the warm sun slacken it?
Edited By Geoff S on 25/06/2020 21:11:04
|Thread: Best Petrol Engine For An SLEC T240 - Advice Please Guys|
You can fly anything on electric power. It's just a matter of choosing the right motor/battery/esc to provide the necessary power to get it off the ground and sufficient energy to allow a reasonable duration. The T240 is a big model (2.4 metres ws, as the name implies) so there's a lot of room for batteries I would think at least a 6s LiPo system but perhaps 5s might be OK but I don't know what the all-up weight might be.
A friend had one a few years ago and flew it on a 1.08 glow IIRC but performance wasn't sparkling and really it needed a bit more. SLEC flew the prototype with an MDS 60 with a 14x6 prop but replaced it with an Enya 120 (4 stroke?) with a 16x6 prop. So you need a set up that will turn a 16x6 prop at (say) 9,000 rpm which suggests 6S
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