Here is a list of all the postings Geoff Sleath has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: SLEC Electric FunFly|
Richard, when I flew mine electric flight was an art rather than the piece of cake it is now. Everything I build now is electric. I'm sure you'll enjoy yours. I fly my Wot4 on 4S 4AH LiPos and get similar endurance to you. In fact I had 46% left after just over 9 minutes from take off to final landing.
I don't know about the electric version - nor the built-up wing for that matter- but I had a couple of the earlier versions with a foam wing and a glow engine and they were excellent flyers. I powered mine with an Irvine Q40 at first but it was too powerful for a pre A cert pilot and was replaced with a Super Tigre 34 which was perfect and got me through my 'A'.
The first one went to model heaven when a too quick charge to take advantage of a decent winter day had it fall heavily to earth when the NiCad went flat - my fault, of course. I built another but can't recall its demise.
The one potential weak point is due to the mid-wing design which makes the fuselage quite weak where it fits. Mine blew off my model stand onto the wing tip and there was enough inertia with the weight of the engine to snap the fuselage just in front of the l/e. If I were building another I'd consider adding a trippler in the area of the fuselage side - tapered to spread the load gradually. Of course the new design may be different.
Whatever, you'll enjoy it, I'm sure.
|Thread: Wots Wot Deluxe Kit|
I've never built a Wots Wot but I started by building my trainer which was the first model I'd built since the early 1950s when I was still at school. My background then was from quite practical hobbies like restoring vintage motor cycles, decking sailing dinghies and building bicycles so I can't think you'd have many problems.
Just make sure it's all straight and strong and make sure you have a flat building board.
As for power, I wouldn't know. If electric I'd go for 4 or 5S LiPo and aim for at least 100 watts/lb for lively aerobatics though it would fly on 70 or 80 watts/lb. Just fit the kit recommended glow engine size if that's what you prefer.
I'd say go for it.
|Thread: Cyclists Amongst Us|
Been a keen cyclist since the mid-1970s when we bought a couple of bikes with 'gas-pipe' frames from Mercian's shop to get fit for our main activity of dinghy racing (those hour+ long races out at sea can take it out of you!).
An early cycle tour in Normandy when we turned right out of Cherbourg (it was easier )and did an anti-clockwise ride eventually lead to cycle camping trips in Europe often in the Pyrenees or Alps. Still the best holidays we ever had although our CTC tour of Nepal is close. We've toured lots in Europe plus New Zealand and the USA.
We've had several tandems and edited the national magazine for a few years. Lots of bicycles in the garage - a few Mercians that haven't been ridden for a while and an immaculate 1949 frame with pencil stays and Nervex lugs that I keep meaning to build up again. It was basis of my racing bike when I rode club time trials with little success (PB a long 24 for 10 miles and a 1hr 5 minutes for 25) but I also used for Audax rides up to 400km (19 hours)
Sadly an accident with a cat in August 1990 put a stop to serious cycling because, although I recovered from the total paralysis I suffered for several days I never regained my former agility or muscle control. At least I continued riding and still do.
I can no longer lift my right leg over the saddle to get on so the lovely Kinesis Racelight I built up 7 or 8 years ago is no longer ridden (I dared to build 32 spoke wheels for it and they survived so far without a broken spoke). I've replaced it with a Trek hybrid with a dropped top tube that's easy to mount.
I've converted both my bike and my wife's Marin to electric assist so I can still ride my favourite circuits which a very hilly (we also live at the top of a biggish hill so we can get home OK!). I still pedal very hard so 50/60 mile rides are OK with still half the energy still in the 36v 11AH Lion battery which is carried in a special rear pannier frame. The motor is in the front wheel. It works very well. I'm just grateful thayt within a few months of my 80th birthday we can still get out a bit.
|Thread: Wot no Acrowot!|
There were some ARTF Wot4s on sale at Cosford on Sunday. As I already have one I didn't take a note of the sellers just noticed them casually. I didn't spot any Acrowots.I assume the ARTB kits are available from Chris Foss himself and, as Percy suggests, building one isn't too difficult.
|Thread: Waterproof glue|
I've built the hull for a Thames spritsail barge from plans and some CNC cut parts originally supplied by Traplet (I think now available on Sarik). There is a DVD which describes the construction and the designer recommended Wudcare 5 minute super fast PVA which is D3 waterproof so that's what I used. I think that means it's OK for short term submersion but not for being permanently underwater.
I don't think there's much problem for a model boat and certainly not for floats on a model aeroplane. I have, however used glass and epoxy skinning on my hull because, being an aeromodeller, I used balsa for the sheeting mostly because that's what I had in stock.
The hull is about 1.2 metres long IIRC (the design is called Veronica) and unfinished as there's a lot of work in the rig (4 sails and 2 masts for one thing plus a sprit and deck fittings). I keep looking at it and feel guilty I've built several aeroplanes since I laid it aside temporarily.
It is actually decked now and things like the dummy keel, leeboards and rudder are made.
|Thread: The demise of. ASP/SC|
When I first started flying in about 1994/5 I bought a trainer (a kit to build) and, knowing nothing about model engines, an MDS 40. I knew a bit about engines as I'd done a lot of mechanicing of motor cycles mostly over the years so I assumed something as simple as a 2 stroke glow couldn't be hard to run so I chose the cheaper one as it looked little different from something more expensive. How wrong I was. I think that engine made my learning to fly a year longer. No-one at the club could get it to run reliably. I ended up building a Precedent Funfly with an Irvine Q40 which was excellent but somewhat over powered (Super Tigre 34 was better for me).
MDS, with few exceptions, deserve ther dreadful reputation.
|Thread: Good news thread.|
Blimey, Dwain, that sounds a bit fierce. I think you took the wise option. There's no point being brave and ending up with a 12" screwdriver in your guts. It's enough to shake you up; well it would certainly be enough to shake me up!
We've just loaded our old camper (LWB Transit based) with clothes, food, bikes etc ready for a trip to Cardiff tomorrow. My nephew is getting married at St Fagan's folk museum on Saturday (it's a site with traditional buildings from all over Wales and he's doing the dirty in a beautiful working men's institute building. Worst thing is I've had to buy a suit - the first since I got married 52 years ago! Checked the outfit this am before putting it all in the van to make sure it fitted OK - not really my thing and i was gald to get back in my scruffs afterwards
We're aiming for a leisurely drive down the Foss. I assume it's still there and not obliterated by new dual carriageways.
|Thread: Battery sag, not battery fault, answers on a postcard please|
Have you actually measured the battery terminal voltage and the current draw so you know how much it drops under load? A battery can be described as an ideal battery in series with a resistor. The resistor is the effective series resistance (ESR) and increases with age. A good LiPo (I have no experiences with a123) will be around 2 milliohms and a tired one greater than 10 milliohms per cell. Current draw will result in the terminal voltage falling as well as power dissipation (current squared x resistance) in the battery itself which is what makes it warm.
In your case it would seem that the battery is not at fault (though it could be. Have you measured the ESR?). I would be surprised if it were the motor (they usually either work or totally fail and are usually very reliable if not over stressed). The leaves the ESC. I suspect the set up rather than a fault but it might be worth swapping it.
|Thread: My biggest "model" yet|
I don't suppose the motors draw that much current. The nominal 36v (42v fully charged) Li-ion battery on our pedal cycles draw less than 10 amps flat out and still give quite a punch when needed up a steep hill. Looks like the motors are brushed anyway. I assume you're using a Frsky receiver - it's not too clear in your photo.
Anyway it's an excellent solution and kudos for a successful repair. I hate throwing things away.
Our 'caravan' is self powered but we have friends and neighbours who rely on caravan movers. They're a boon for caravan storage in tricky, tight locations like yours.
|Thread: Is it now time for cyclists to wear an identifier and pay a tax?|
A friend of mine completed his career at RR in China when he was responsible for setting up a manufacturing facility in Xian (where the terracotta warriors are). He was a very keen cyclist and rode a lot when he was there and bicycles had to be registered as well as carrying a small number plate. In fact one of his bikes still had the plate on when we rode together. The Chinese eventually realised that scheme was completely impractical and it has now been abandoned.
Cyclists do minimal harm to the environment and cause very few accidents - in fact we're more victims than perpetrators. Cycling should be encouraged rather than the opposite.
At one time we cycled everywhere, using main roads where appropriate. We did annual trip to York from home in Belper with camping gear; we rode from home to the then velodrome in Leicester along the A6 for events. We've just returned from a few days cycling in Notts just south of Newark and at one point had to use the A52. It was horrible. I used to cycle commute 13 miles each way before I retired in 1995; it would be a nightmare now.
|Thread: Elevator joiner wire plastic tube bearing|
That's what I was thinking, Nigel. I can't honestly I've ever bothered with supporting an elevator joiner. I just use 3 hinges/side and leave the joiner unsupported. They're not usually very long.
|Thread: Boeing 737 Max 8|
I suppose the 2 systems aren't mutually incompatible and both could be deployed. In cases where the black box can't be found at least same data will be available.
|Thread: Junior 60|
I'm the king of the bodgers and if I were building that wing I'd just carve away enough of the rib so that the top T/E sheeting lay flush with the lower. I find that wing tips often need a little creative thinking and as long as it's the same both sides and you avoid wash-in it won't affect the flying qualities.
|Thread: DB Sport & Scale Sopwith Pup 60" ws|
Whilst there are a few Boddo touches from the other bipes (at least the Moths) I think Richard deserves most of the credit for this one. I'm looking forward to the build. I've even applied glue to wood on my Ryan this afternoon although merely to repair it after I fell on it a few weeks back. It's probably (actually certainly) the worst kit I've ever built; how they have the nerve to call the firm Easy Built Models I don't know.
Belair do plans and CNC parts for the Bates Moth Minor at 1/4, 1/5 and 1/8 scale. I was seriously considering the 1/5th scale version before I decided on the DB Pup
btw George, if you fancy a lift to Weston tomorrow, give me a call. Avice and I are going.
|Thread: Side-thrust and wash-in|
Yes, you're right. I just scrolled up and didn't recall that David had posted 2 pics. Must write down 100 times "I will be more careful before jumping to conclusions"
It looks to me that the rudder is to the right (ie not centralised) but the fin itself is angled to turn left. It's probably just the way the camera angle is, though, rather than a build error. David is too experienced to get that wrong.
|Thread: Bryant Percival Gull 6 E conversion|
My similarly sized Mew Gull weighs about 4kg/10lb IIRC and I test flew it on 6S @ 45 amps flat out on a 14x7 APC/E prop with an EMax GT 4030/06 420 rpm/v motor and it flew very well. I don't think you'll have a problem with your set up.
That's a beautiful model btw.
|Thread: Side-thrust and wash-in|
I'm sure it's better to try it first with the wash-in corrected for the reasons Percy writes but if the behaviour is the same I'd reduce right thrust and increase down thrust. As the engine is out in the open it shouldn't be too difficult to add a few washers to the engine mount at the field.
I've been watching the Criterium du Dauphine bike race near and in the Alps the past few days and the weather has generally been wet and windy (windy enough to blow Chris Froome off his bike and seriously injure him) so perhaps playing with lightweight models like the Baron may be a bit fraught anyway
|Thread: DB Sport & Scale Sopwith Pup 60" ws|
Your Pup looks good, George, but then I was impressed when you showed me some pics at the field earlier this year. You're a hard act to follow
My Pup kit arrived today after Richard had a few issues in acquiring the accessories and he updated the instructions. It all looks fine but, as yet, just a box full of balsa/ply strip and sheet, some of it beautifully CNC cut, all ready to be fitted together. The instructions and prototype build photos are on the DBS&S web site so you can have an idea of what the kit looks like.
I'm particularly pleased that the top wing and interplane strut fixing is very similar to that used on the similarly sized (58" ) Moths. Field assembly of biplanes often results in their ending up as hangar queens because of the time at the field. That isn't the case with either of my Moths (Tiger and Gypsy/Cirrus) and it doesn't look like it will with the Pup. So once it's built it'll be flown a lot.
Both sides of both wings are fully drawn on one sheet and fuselage on another so there's no need to try using both sides of the sheet by spreading parafin or whatever to make it transparent. It does make for big sheets of paper but that's a price worth paying IMO..
I probably won't start the build for a few weeks (or even months) but it seems to have kicked my enthusiasm a bit and hopefully enough to complete the Ryan I haven't touched since last December. I'm even intending to go to Weston on Sunday and I may even actually go flying if this rain stops.
Anyway from what I've seen this afternoon it all looks very good and, as it's a DB kit, should fly well, too. Richard has used the production of this new kit to celebrate 50 years since Boddo started it all off.
Edited By Geoff Sleath on 14/06/2019 21:20:26
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