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Member postings for Geoff S

Here is a list of all the postings Geoff S has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
10/03/2013 19:57:52

I'm not sure that the wire frame image is not of the original aeroplane but a model. The prop doesn't look quite right and the exaust outlet is too high. The exaust ends come out slightly below the bottom of the fuselage on the full-size - if I fit some on my model I intend to position them a bit higher as I'll be belly landing it.

Of course, I may be wrong; it has been known on very rare occasions, though my wife would deny the 'rare' and the 'very'.

Back to wing carving


Thread: WolstonFlyer's Tucano
10/03/2013 12:58:57

That looks neat. If you look at my similar picture on my build thread I've had to cut some meat from the triangular stock to allow easy access to the motor mount bolts. I think I'll include a top hatch as in the original drawing to allow access after the build is completed, just in case.

Your prop driver looks about the same as mine - ie about 6mm thick. Will you have sufficient space for a 10mm spacer ring?


Thread: Be honest, do you set the fail safe?
10/03/2013 12:49:40
Posted by Bob H on 09/03/2013 20:18:26:

No need when flying electric. What happens if you lose your plane for a while in the ground ? ( with the failsafe set) Your motor will keep running until the battery is flat and you would probably require a new motor after . The prop will just keep on turning digging a hole.

If any model needs a failsafe function that cuts the throttle, it's an electric one ... and that's for the sake of the operator as much as innocent bystanders. After all, I've never seen a model with an ic engine burst into life without warning (all too often they won't burst into life when you want them to) but an electric model can. A 12x6 prop powered by an electric motor is more dangerous than an ic powered one because an electric motor continues delivering torque, even when stopped, right up to the point the smoke escapes.

After all it may be your arm rather than the ground it's digging into. I always set the failsafe and, in addition, I've programmed a throttle hold switch on my Mux 3030 so that inadvertent operation of the throttle control won't start the prop spinning. I regard any electric model as potentially dangerous if there's a battery fitted.


Thread: Geoff's Tucano
10/03/2013 01:07:08

Well, Wolston, I've been collecting tools for about 60 years so I'm likely to have a few around. They last a long time and I, like my Dad was, am a bit of a tool junkie. Most of them were for working on motor cycles (one of my 21st birthday presents was a Britool socket set I still have) then for racing dinghy maintenance and then pedal cycles before I tried aeromodelling.

I'm not looking forward to carving the wing profile despite what Nigel says in his build article. That's tomorrow's job.


Thread: Show us your workshop!
10/03/2013 00:53:22
Posted by Mike Gunn on 09/03/2013 22:54:05:

Your workshop looks nice and cosy Geoff. I love the feeling of being surrounded by my fave stuff and who needs a heater when you have a valve

Nice one.....Mike

Thanks, Mike. I probably spend about 70% of my time in there when I'm at home. I'm either reading or working on something. I was brought up living behind the family radio & TV business and there was a huge workshop, so I got used to the idea from birth. Mine's tiny by comparison and I built it as an extension to the house not long before I retired. It's a lot warmer than the garage though my wife didn't mind me building bikes or bike wheels in the house if it was cold - especially if it was her bike or the wheels were for her.


09/03/2013 22:41:24

Tim, you told me at Ashbourne you only did one job at a time. There are two models in both your pics smiley. But it all looks incredibly tidy compared to mine. I took these just a few minutes ago. One from each end. The Murphy FM radio dates from about 1958 and still works once the valves have warmed. It'sa bit of nostalgia, really because I used to service them in the factory service department when they were the latest thing

The picture of the Wright brothers on the wall in the 2nd picture was bought at Kitty Hawk itself.


workshop 1 2013.jpg



workshop 2 2013.jpg



Edited By Geoff Sleath on 09/03/2013 22:41:42

Thread: Geoff's Tucano
09/03/2013 22:13:44

The shaped turtle deck. You can see the 5mm strip added to the top of the CNC cut fuselage side.

fus 5.jpg

The motor mounting showing the sidethrust angle built-in by angling the firewall. The spacer ring was made by cutting the larger diameter with a hole saw in my drill press. The centre hole is cut the same way but watch your fingers! I resorted to holding the balsa gently in a pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure the middle hole is big enough to get the motor through

fus 6.jpg

The wing parts being glued together using the fuselage jig as a clamp. As you can see, I use Titebond

wing 1.jpg


09/03/2013 21:27:36

First, the scheme for adding 5mm to the fuselage sides aft of the cockpit and fitting the triangular stock inside rather than on the edge seems to have worked out OK. I did that and glued the soft 10mm sheet on top and carved it to shape. Incidentally it necessitated a thorough sweeping of the floor afterwards to avoid treading dust/shavings out into the lounge (my workshop is an extension that opens off the lounge in our 19th century cottage) to avoid conflict with SWMBO smiley. The angle just forward of the fin seems to be just about spot-on for the fin extension to mate up accurately.

Second, I've fitted the motor. It's an XYH 3542 which is identiacl I think to the Turnigy and other 3542. I'm pretty sure XYH make them all and the rest are badged by the various companies. I set the firewall 38mm back on the right (starboard) side and 36mm back on the left (port) side to allow for the right thrust. This is too far back. The drawing shows a 10mm deep collar on the front of the original nose engine mount but I can only get about 5mm before it would foul the back of the spinner. So, if you're using a similar motor then the firewall should be nearer to the front by about 5mm (31 and 33mm from the front of the fuselage side). I'm not going to change mine. I'll just put up with a shallower spacer ring.

Third, I'm glueing the wing sections together using my Fuselage jig as a sort of sash cramp. I think it's successful - I haven't removed them yet. As I'm having a removable wing I've cut the main (centre) part of the wing to 18" ie cut a 36" length of 100 x 10 mm balsa exactly in half. (How I wish everything was measured in metric units 1.5mm =1/16"; 3mm = 1/8" etc is only approximate and the little errors add up) The centre section will be 77mm and square (ie not profiled) so the wing will be in 3 pieces before being joined with the dihedral braces - see Phil Winks' drawings.

So some progress today while SWMBO went out cycling and did about 120km in the drizzle.


Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
09/03/2013 12:10:29

You're probably right, Phil. I'm still not sure how I'll attach my wing but it will probably be something like you suggested. I'm not sure about the screws coming down from inside and being just long enough not to poke through the wing undersheet. It's a neat idea which adds to the scale effect but I wonder how easy it'll be to get them just long enough but not too short

In the meantime I found this rather nice 3-view using my intended scheme. I like the black one but I fear my eyes probably won't.

One of things I like about the Tucano's appearance is the elegant line over the canopy and down the turtle-back to the tail. In fact I drew a Tucano as an example when I reviewed ModelCad back in 1999 for another magazine - it remains my only review and they forgot to put my name on it. However I feel Nigel's design doesn't quite get enough rise to the bottom of canopy. The rear pilot (the instructor?) actually sits quite a bit higher than the pupil in front of him and the clear part at the back is a similar height to that at the front.

The original design does show the cockpit floor cranked up near the front but not quite enough. I'm intending to increase the angle a bit better to represent the full-size.

I also meant to add that I think I'll put some triangular stock along the bottom of the fuselage behind the wing so I can round it off as per this 3 view.  Shouldn't add much, if anything, to the weight as I'll be removing almost as much as I'm adding.


Edited By Geoff Sleath on 09/03/2013 12:16:03

Edited By Geoff Sleath on 09/03/2013 12:17:13

Thread: Geoff's Tucano
08/03/2013 17:08:07

I think it was Phil Winks who pointed out that the fuselage drawing was wrong behind the cockpit and the side was shown 10mm deeper than it should have been. I was tempted to cut my CNC cut sides down before commencing construction but decided to see how it was once the top had been drawn in. I though some of the extra would be lost in the curve.

That has proved to be the case in part but there's still about 5mm too much. I've corrected this not by cutting some off but by adding 5mm. There's plenty of wood left to cut a 5mm strip long enough to glue to the sides. I've done that and intend to glue the triangular section to the inside without needing to flatted one corner as shown in the original design. There's a bit more wood but most of it will be carved away in the shaping process.

I suspect Nigel adopted the structure so that he could make the sides from a standard piece of 4" (100mm) balsa sheet. The CNC cut sides are made from sheets stuck together to make them wider.


Thread: 2013 Mass Build - general chat thread
08/03/2013 16:58:20

As regards the ply(?) doubler, is it round the wing seat? As I'm fitting a detachable wing I thought there might be some weakness there as the wing is no longer a part of the structure - at least it's not glued in. What thickness and depth is it and does it stretch all the way between F2 and F3?

I think this is a ploy by the editorial team to get us all buying the magazine more frequently than heretofore laugh


08/03/2013 15:00:24

Using my SLEC fuselage jig I've been able to glue F2,F3 and the fin post all in one go and haven't had any splitting problems at F3 and I'm also using the CNC pack. What I have noticed (just!) is that when I experimentally draw in the sides to the curve of F2 it distorts at the top. F2 is very soft balsa and I've cut a huge hole in it. I think I'll add a 6x6 mm cross piece to give it some stiffness.

I strongly recommend the building jig. It's like having another pair of hands - or even more! Usual disclaimer - nothing to do with SLEC except as a customer.

Looks like I'll have to acquire a copy of the mag.


Thread: Geoff's Tucano
08/03/2013 14:38:07

This my first attempt at adding photos to the forum so I hope it works OK

A useful tool to aid building straight fuselages is the SLEC building jig and I've used it a lot but not for some time to a scratch build like this one. It's certainly easier to use if the formers interlock with the sides but, with patience, it works well with the Tucano.

Just two views of the sides with F2, F3 and the fin post ready to epoxy in position. I used Grip 1 hour epoxy because it gives lots of time to adjust parts and is very strong once hardened. Takes a lot longer than an hour to cure, I find.

fus 3.jpg

fus 1.jpg

It's probably not obvious but the gaps to fit the firewall are offset by 2mm to allow for the right thrust without using spacer washers which I find to be a bit fiddly. It's always an option to use washers to fine-tune the thrust if it becomes necessary. To aid alignment I also marked the centre of the formers.

The firewall will be added later but before I draw in the side to the curve of the formers - a lot easier job using the jig. It will need some shaping at the top to fit the curve. I will be using the 3mm ply motor mount supplied in the CNC cut parts at the front but I've cut a large hole in it with a hole saw. Also cut a large hole in F2 for motor access.


07/03/2013 19:51:50

It seems there are a few discrepancies between drawings and the CNC cut parts. My original drawing from 2003 shows the front of the fuselage side as being 68mm high, the CNC cut part is actually 67mm and it seems that Phil's drawing is 70mm, hence the dimensions of his firewall. It looks like I'll be trimming the firewall Phil designed by 2mm at the top and 1mm at the bottom. I don't think this will affect the motor thrust line too much.

Something else to be aware of if you have the CNC pack. Former F2 is supplied as a solid piece. It needs to have hole(s) cut in it to allow access to the motor connections. I intend to cut a 30mm dia hole in the centre of mine. The need to cut access holes is written on the drawing but no holes are shown. Easy to forget and far easier to cut before glueing.

Welcome aboard, Wolston Flyer Not sure you'll learn much except what not to do. This is a model I've been intending to build since 2003 so you can see how keen I am!




Edited By Geoff Sleath on 07/03/2013 19:52:24

Thread: Phil Winks' Tucano
07/03/2013 18:15:49

Thanks, Phil. I can adjust as required. A lot easier to do it before glueing than afterwards. As I mention in my thread, my drawing is from 2003 and shows the side at 68mm! I guess paper dimensional stabilty and/or print accuracy may be to blame. I don't suppose a 1mm error in motor thrust line will be significant. I'll be delighted if the finished model is within a 1mm tolerance.laugh


07/03/2013 17:45:50

Hi Phil

I've started my build and started a thread. I've made a firewall to your drawing and it sits 3mm proud of the fuselage side at the top. Is that intentional for some reason that will be revealed as the build progresses? My CNC cut fuselage side measures 67mm and firewall is specified at 70mm.

I'd be grateful for your response.


Thread: Geoff's Tucano
07/03/2013 17:39:50

After clearing up a few outstanding jobs and shaking off a bit of lethargy I'm actually starting my build. I'm using the CNC and wood pack for convenience and because I'm lazy. I've already bought my power system - an XYH 3542 1000 rpm/v motor coupled with a Black Magic 50 amp esc. I intend to adopt Phil Winks' removable wing because I think a 45" ws model with a glued on wing is going to be inconvenient both to store and transport. I also favour a firewall-mounted motor configuration mostly because it means the motor wires don't need to be fed from the front of the motor, past the spinning outer case, which always makes me nervous. I imagine the motor committing suicide by severing its own power source

I'm starting with the fuselage because I want to have that ready to fit the wing centre-section when the time comes. I've made a firewall to Phil's drawing and hit the first snag. It appears to be 3 mm too high. MY CNC cut fuselage is 67mm high at the front and the firewall is 70 mm. The distance from the bottom to the motor thrust line agrees with drawing (mine's the original from the May 2003 RCME). However the drawing measures 68 mm rather the 67 mm of the CNC fuselage side. Mind you when I was at work all drawings used to bear the legend 'Do Not Scale' (though most of my drawings were circuit diagrams) but aeromodellers have been ignoring that for ever and using drawings as jigs.

So, is the firewall deliberately proud of the top of the fuselage side, or do I trim it back? Not sure, I'll have to ask Phil what he intended.


Thread: Sell my wot 4 foam-e for a Multiplex fun cub?
12/02/2013 23:24:57

I don't have a Wot 4 Foam E but I do have both Riot (similar to the Wot 4) as well as a Mux Fun Cub. They are different aeroplanes.

The Cub is great in relatively light winds and will do the book. The flaps are something else to play with. However, it's really restricted to winds less than about 10 mph. It's a very sturdy model. I lost the battery in mine when doing an outside loop and it floated down to earth inverted and landed on a concrete runway completelu undamaged except for the cowl which had been dislodged by the battery's escape.

The Riot will also do the book once the CoG is moved back and the control throws increased. It's big advantage is that I'll fly it any wind and is my go to model in less than perfect conditions. A flying buddy has a Wot 4 Foam E and the models are quite similar in performance.

I'd have both.


Thread: Soldering pin through hole connectors
08/02/2013 20:46:13

Provided that they're plated through holes on the PCB (as they probably are) then it's just a matter of soldering on the pin side and the solder will flow like thin cyano Otherwise you'll need to solder both sides but it's unlikely.

As Plummet says using a small temperature controlled iron is best. I use an ancient (30 + years) 45 watt Weller. The power is irrelevant provided the temperature is controlled. His is a good point about soldering a couple of widely spaced piuns first on a multipin dil chip.


Thread: Martin's Tucano
04/01/2013 21:18:18

IIRC you're not supposed to use the hole drilled in the hub on APC E props but one of the supplied inserts to suit your shaft diameter. According to the information supplied with the props it's the outer recess that's accurate and that's where inserts locate.

I've never had a problem with APC E props and they seem to be popular amongst electric flyers.


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