Here is a list of all the postings Peter Christy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Radiomaster TX16s Anyone tried one?|
You are confusing the open source OpenTx programming system (essentially, the encoder) with the proprietary RF protocols.
One of the reasons there are so many Futaba protocols around is that they got fed up with people making "clone" receivers. FrSky are not alone!
|Thread: If you ask ten different aeromodellers...|
Ye Gods! You guys like over-powering things! Mine is ballistic on an Irvine 46 and that with the "quiet" silencer! And yes, the CofG was spot on!
Edited By Peter Christy on 21/01/2021 17:36:43
|Thread: The pure joy of model flying|
Another one here, with fond memories of the Frog Buccaneer! In fact, I also had its predecessor, the Frog Mk V (?). Similar concept, but the fuselage was made of paper thin aluminium foil, and the wings of stiff paper. Nowhere near as robust as the Buccaneer!
My first power model was a Cox PT-19 control-line job. Taught me to fly CL and also to start glow engines! First successful RC model was a Mini-Robot, with MacGregor single channel, Elmic escapement and Cox TeeDee .049 up front.
I built a replica of it back in 2015 to celebrate my first successful RC flight, and it is still going strong!
Since then, I've built quite a few models from that era, my favourite probably being the Frog Jackdaw, IMHO a much better flying machine than the Super 60, which I always found a bit too "floaty". The scaled down Super 60s were much better, probably due to the higher wing loading. I still have a pair of half-size ones (Super 30s?) that still fly extremely well - even with rubber driven escapements!
These days, I seem to get more fun out of flying these "old timers" than I do more modern machinery. They certainly look better than most modern "trainers"!
|Thread: Watts/lb misleading?|
I'm with Phil on this one, as it actually works quite well for helicopters, too! Watts per pound doesn't work at all well for helis, which tend to be much heavier for a given engine size than their fixed wing counterparts.
(Big "prop" turning slowly is more efficient!)
|Thread: Article 16 question|
His club admin should be able to do this for him. Probably the membership secretary is the best person to ask.
He will need to assure them that he has read it. I would imagine a quick phone call should sort it out.
|Thread: Tearing what is left of my hair out|
Andy: I'm sorry if you found my comments offensive or insulting. They certainly were not intended to be. But quite honestly, I have observed a recent trend - and I'm sure I'm not alone - for pilots to spend more time worrying about telemetry alarms than actually flying the model!
I cannot remember the last time I suffered a loss of signal, but it must have been back in the days of 27 MHz, and probably before the advent of readily available proportional radio!
My current fleet of models is split roughly 50/50 between IC power and electric. I have recently taken to converting very old, and usually large, helicopters to electric. Many of these are museum pieces, yet I have never found the need for either cell voltage monitoring, or even current monitoring EXCEPT when doing the initial setup.
Unlike an aeroplane, on a helicopter you can't easily change gear ratios or prop size, so the KV rating of the motor becomes very important, and this can only be checked by monitoring the current draw.
Once sorted, the correct current draw is established, it becomes a known quantity, and timer programming is more than adequate to avoid over discharging the battery. I have an audible warning set for total battery voltage, set to a conservative level, and it has NEVER gone off! Most of my models don't even have that, and yet my batteries seem to survive for several years without issue.
I agree that many battery checkers can be erratic, but the one I carry with me agrees very closely with my (quite expensive) charger - to a degree where I am quite happy to trust it as a reliable indicator of remaining charge. And I did say that I use it at the END of the flight, not the beginning, as a check for weak cells - not as "fuel gauge".
With all this in mind, I stand by my assertion that for our purposes, anything further is overkill, and really not worth bothering with.
Edited By Peter Christy on 07/01/2021 16:07:21
Mike, you are quite right about the receiver options menu. I haven't seen it documented anywhere, and only came across it recently when setting up a stabilised receiver for a fellow club member. (I had to use it to re-map some channels in the receiver)
You highlight the receiver name and press enter. That should bring up an additional menu. I think the receiver has to be powered and bound for it to work (working from memory - I don't have it in front of me).
I'm not sure when it was introduced into OpenTx, but its certainly there in the current release. If GG is running an older release, he may not have it.
I'm not sure I agree with you about there being a specific safe level of discharge. All manufacturers provide a figure for this in their specifications, and every ESC I have bought has always had its safe threshold voltage set slightly above the manufacturer's recommended safe minimum.
Given a choice, I too prefer to land when I have some reserve for a go-around. However, those of us who learned to fly in an era when dead-stick was the norm do not find the procedure particularly alarming or difficult.
Full size pilots regularly train for events like engine failure on take-off. Loss of power at any point in the flight is something for which any competent pilot should be prepared.
None of my electric models have cell-level voltage monitoring - not even the helicopters. Only two have telemetry voltage monitoring (built in to the ESC), and I do NOT rely on it! I rely on knowing the average consumption and set a timer accordingly. I usually start my landing approaches with 1 min left on the timer, and the timer set to allow me to land with around 35% remaining, according to a battery checker.
I usually check remaining capacity with a cell checker when I remove the battery.
This, and doing a subsequent balance charge, will quickly reveal any ageing or weak cells long before they become an issue.
Continuing flying with a pack with a known weak cell is comparable to continuing to fly with leaky fuel / pressure lines in an IC model. You will get what you deserve!
IMHO we have become far too reliant on telemetry systems in recent years. We now rely on technology to save us instead of basic checks and common sense.
I, too, started flying with single channel and had to land dead-stick. Even when I progressed on to multi-channel, I decided to forego throttle control in favour of elevators. Flew like that for years, so dead-stick holds no fears for me.
SteveJ: Every ESC in my possession came already programmed to cut out when the safe minimum volts/cell is reached. Admittedly its is possible to change this, but I doubt if many people do. All modern ESCs do a cell count on initialisation for this very reason, so I'm not sure why you think flying to the cut-out level will damage the LiPos.
The amount of power drawn by the radio and servos is negligible compared to the motor. As soon as the motor cuts, the LiPo will effectively be "off-load", allowing the voltage to rise slightly above the minimum level - which was almost certainly set conservatively high anyway. This will certainly be enough to land anything but perhaps a thermal soarer quite safely.
|Thread: Starter for smaller engines|
Ooops! My bad!
JD8: Yes, I did run my PAW 1.49s on D-3000 for some time before being warned off it, because of the lower oil content. But they loved it! I switched to D-2000, and they ran OK on that, but never quite like they did on D-3000!
And we do run plain bearing glow engines on around 18% oil, and many of the go well over 10,000 RPM. Its a shame no-one seems to make diesel with synthetic oil. If they do, its not generally available.
|Thread: Radio interference from spark ignition|
Brownout: Occurs when the voltage drops below the minimum required by the receiver. The receiver stops working! It may reconnect if/when the voltage recovers, but may take a few seconds, which can be disastrous.
Usually the result of a combination of weak batteries and/or poor quality switches and high current servos.
|Thread: Fuel additives ?|
You have to remember that anything you *add* displaces fuel, and it is the fuel that generates the power.
Modern synthetic oils are very good at keeping the insides of our engines spotless - unlike castor - and can even clean up engines lacquered with castor residue - eventually!
In short, if you are running a good brand of fully synthetic oil in your motor, there should be no need for any additive. Indeed it may be counter-productive!
|Thread: New scam alert!|
I seem to recall - not many years ago - a senior management figure at a well known bank ending up in court! Apparently she had fallen for one of these scams (send us £XXX to claim your reward) and used clients money!
Caught and punished! (Jail IIRC, as it was a fair amount of money!)
It does make you wonder when supposedly senior and intelligent bankers fall for it.
|Thread: Starter for smaller engines|
The OP doesn't define what he means by "small"! To me "small" means less than 1cc. I've never had a problem with Cox engines using the spring start, but I do have a 0.8cc diesel that is an absolute horror to get started!
Chicken sticks and riggers gloves are far too clumsy for 6" props. In the past I have resorted to using a full size starter on it to get it going, having made sure beforehand that the crankcase is dry-ish to avoid hydraulic locks!
Interestingly, it is most difficult to start on "easy-start" diesel mixes, like D-1000! It starts much more easily on D-3000, but that is not recommended for plain bearing engines. I've compromised on D-2000, on which it is still extremely difficult to get going.
Strange, because I have this engines "bigger brothers" from the same manufacturer, and they are quit easy to flick start - very benign, although they too do not like D-1000!
So yes, a small starter based on a buggy motor or similar sounds good to me!
|Thread: Radio interference from spark ignition|
Ignition interference can be quite strong, particularly to nearby receivers, so it is very important to ensure that plug leads and screening are all in good condition.
In theory, ignition noise tails off above about 600 MHz - but it may find other ways of breaking into a receiver rather than coming through the aerial!
Harking back to the 35 MHz days, some will remember clubs having issues with flying through microwave beams cutting across their fields. The beams in question were nowhere near 35 MHz, but were powerful enough to break directly into the audio and decoder circuitry. Wrapping the receiver in tin foil often provided a cure!
Interference can also break in through the power lines. Some years ago, I had an issue with a piezo gyro causing glitching in a helicopter. Upon investigation, I discovered that the voltage booster inside it was putting several VOLTS of interference onto the battery supplies! I switched to another brand, and the problem went away!
So yes, in theory 2.4 GHz should have better ignition noise immunity than lower frequencies. But ignition noise has a way of working its way in through unexpected paths, so take care! In particular, make sure all plug caps, HT leads and associated screening are in good condition!
|Thread: Drone rules printed in todays Press|
I think you understate the case! Many of us think "fake news" about MOST of the stuff we read in the newspapers!
Its not called "gutter press" for nothing!
The motto of the old "Red Top" journalists was "Never let the facts stand in the way of a good story!".
Looks like the Beeb are starting to slide down the same path...
|Thread: Screen Size|
We replaced our old Panasonic with a 55" LG OLED just before Christmas, last year. The picture quality is superb, and the sound much better than the Panasonic was.
It also has a built in satellite tuner - bit of a waste for us, as we can't get satellite here - but its there if you want it!
I'm an ex-broadcast TV engineer, so I'm very fussy with my TVs! From what I can gather, even Sony and Panasonic buy their panels from LG - certainly for OLEDs, anyway!
The menu system / programme guide is a bit more fiddly than the Panasonic, IMHO, but it more than makes up for it with the excellent picture and very good sound.
I actually have the sound routed through the HiFi and a couple of big floor standing speakers, but for most programmes it simply isn't necessary. I now only route it through the HiFi for music programmes.
I found turning OFF the artificial intelligence on the sound improved the audibility of the actors a lot on the internal speakers (it only works on the internals). If left on, the voices were drowned out by the music and/or effects. Clearly not that intelligent, and best avoided! But at least you can turn it off!
P.S. When I got married at first, we had a 13" Trinitron in our bed-sit! How times have changed....!
Edited By Peter Christy on 27/12/2020 16:20:40
|Thread: What did Santa bring ?|
A 3D printer!!!
From my wife, though I suspect my son had a big hand in it! (Wifey is a complete technophobe!)
|Thread: Nationwide Building Society|
Just rang Lloyds this morning, and they are not accepting new "Treasurers Accounts" at present. Grrr!
Next stop HSBC...
Neither are HSBC!
Edited By Peter Christy on 21/12/2020 10:44:37
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