Here is a list of all the postings Peter Christy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Which would you choose and why?|
I don't know either model, but the undercarriage on the Cessna looks "stalky" and fragile - and I like tail-draggers!
Jon: I keep a Kilner jar full of red diesel for un-gumming old engines, a tip I got from an old friend (an engineer by trade) years ago. He also recommended contaminated diesel - often cheaply available from garages from people who have topped up their diesel car with petrol!
Any comments on its suitability?
"If it doesn't move when it should, use WD40. If it moves when it shouldn't, use duct tape!"
"Duct tape is like the Force. It has a dark side and a light side, and it binds the Universe together!"
|Thread: LiPo replacement for Spektrum Tx Li-Ion - care and maintenance?|
One thing that a lot of folks overlook is that 2.4 GHz transmitters use a LOT less power than the old 35 MHz gear.
Both are restricted to 100mW ERP (Effective Radiated Power). To achieve 100mw erp on 27 or 35 Mhz needed an input to the RF stage of around 1 watt, because of the inefficiencies of a telescopic aerial in a hand-held box. On the other hand, a 2.4 GHz Tx only puts out 60mW to achieve 100mW erp, due to the "gain" of the aerial.
In other words, a 2.4 GHz transmitter only requires .06 as much power in to produce the same power out!
In the days of 35 MHz, the RF board consumed the vast majority of the power. The encoder - even computerised ones - took only a small fraction of the total power consumption.
Even the most complex modern transmitters only draw a comparatively tiny amount of power into the encoder, so a 4000 mAH pack is severe overkill, to put it mildly! You could probably fly for a whole year on that without re-charging!
Also, bear in mind that most 2.4 GHz transmitters run at a much lower voltage than in days of yore, typically 5V or less. Admittedly the regulators need a bit of headroom, but most operate quite happily at 6 or 7V input. (A 2-cell Li-ion pack is typically 7.2V - 3.6V per cell). Using a higher voltage pack will simply cause the regulators to dissipate the excess power as heat! This might keep your hands a bit warmer in winter, but serves no other useful purpose!
My personal preference is to use LiFe cells in transmitters. A 3-cell LiFe comes in at 9.9V, and makes a perfect substitute for an 8-cell NiXX pack. A 2-cell Life settles at 6.6V, which should be quite adequate for most 2.4 GHz gear - but check the manufacturers voltage recommendations before rushing out to do this!
LiFe cells can be fast charged in the same way as LiPos - provided your charger has a LiFe setting (most modern ones do), they do not suffer from "memory" effect, and can be left charged for long periods without deterioration.
They cannot provide the extremely high currents that LiPos do, but this is unnecessary in a transmitter.
So please, use LiFe cells in transmitters, NOT LiPos!
|Thread: Watch out for online retailers in EU, China & the USA|
I wouldn't trust Halfrauds to service a push-bike, let alone a car! They are notorious for "fixing" things that don't need it and over-charging for everything they think they can get away with.
Halfrauds and Kwik-Fit are the two places at the top of my "avoid at all costs" list!
|Thread: nicad battery packs|
Just bear in mind that a new pack of Eneloops will have between 3 and 4 times the capacity of your old NiCads. If you run them flat, they will take a lot longer to fully charge on your old charger.
As long as you are aware of this, then fine, carry on as normal. But also Eneloops can be "fast charged" in an hour or so, but for that you need a modern "peak detect" charger.
I would recommend a peak detect charger anyway, as it prevents overcharging - one of the main causes of the dreaded "black wire corrosion"!
|Thread: switch harness|
Switches with a built in charge socket have a terrible reputation - regardless of brand. Avoid at all costs!
|Thread: Arduino programming for beginners.|
Whilst I can read - and tweak, when required - both Arduino code and "C", I would hesitate to write either from scratch!
I was taught programming on an IBM mainframe, running Fortran and a DEC PDP-8 running Focal. Neither of these helped me very much when I started playing with early computers like the UK101 or BBC "B"! I did get quite proficient at 8-bit machine code, but modern programming languages seem to work in a whole different way!
No doubt I could do it if I put my mind to it, with a lot of studying. My problem is that it is something I would only use occasionally, and by the time I wanted it again, I would have forgotten what I did the last time!
I know enough to get by, and that keeps me occupied and content!
It certainly helps to learn something like Basic. It may not be directly applicable to something like an Arduino, but it does teach you the importance of logical thinking and planning, and is relatively easy to debug!
Once you can get your head around Basic - or a similar interpreted language - then working with compiled languages becomes easier. At least your brain is partially tuned to the right wavelength....!
|Thread: Dumb Taranis question|
Access is a new protocol, and your X8R receivers are NOT Access. However, all the Access transmitters (I believe) also have D16, which is what your X8R receivers use. (Yes, the nomenclature is confusing!)
FrSky transmitters have space for two protocols. Your Taranis will do D8 and D16. The Access transmitters do D16 and Access.
If you wish to use D8 receivers with an Access transmitter, just plug your DJT module in the back and program that model to use the external module.
Rod: From your post it looks as if you might be confusing the OpenTx operating system and the RF protocol (Access).
The RF boards and associated firmware determine the RF protocol (D8, D16,Access, etc) and have nothing to do with OpenTx (2.X.X) other than OpenTx being used to select whatever protocol the transmitter provides.
Your current Taranis supports D8 and D16. Many new FrSky transmitters support D16 and Access, and appear to have a different RF board that won't support D8.
The first question you need to ask is "Do I have any D8 receivers?". If not, you can happily get an Access Tx, as these still support D16 as well.
If you DO have D8 receivers, you still have an option of using a "plug-in" module that supports D8 with an Access transmitter. This could be either one of the multi-protocol modules, or an XJT module.
But this is the first question you need to answer before proceeding further.
|Thread: Silencer Gaskets|
Another +1 for 5 min epoxy.
I was taught this trick many years ago, and I've never had a silencer come loose or leak since adopting it! I do use a drop of threadlock on the bolts, but that's just to stop the bolts coming loose, not the silencer!
There was indeed! Everyone else used a synchronising pulse that was longer than the longest channel pulse to keep the receiver in sync with the transmitter.
Horizon chose to use a sync pulse "shorter than the shortest", rather than "longer than the longest". This gave it a higher frame rate than other systems, but at the cost of considerable incompatibility. Receivers were not interchangeable with other brands, but also there were issues with servo incompatibility as well. (Similar to the present issue of using "analogue" servos with a high frame rate system).
It was also more difficult to detect the sync pulse - typically only 0.5mS, compared to a conventional 6 - 10mS. The final straw came when FM systems arrived, along with the requirement to operate at 10KHz channel spacing, rather than the previous 25KHz. It was difficult to fit such a short synchronising pulse into the required bandwidth!
It was an interesting attempt to do something a bit different, and worked OK, but in the end the relative simplicity of conventional systems won out.
|Thread: Aurora 9x|
But a drop in the ocean to the number we lost in the latter part of the 20th century!
I've never had a Futaba set, though I've had lots of JR. I've also been using FrSky for around 8 years now. Despite being a) cheap and b) Chinese, it has so far proven to be every bit as reliable as my JR equipment but at a much lower cost!
I can't comment on Jumper, Jeti or HiTec as I've never owned one, but I can say that being cheap and Chinese does not necessarily equate to being unreliable! Indeed, my experience is quite the reverse!
|Thread: Dynam hurricane|
Note the droop in the starboard upper wing, and the protruding mainspar! And that was before I flew it!
I managed to straighten the fin and rudder (mostly) by ironing, but the twist has crept back in the rudder. The elevators are also slightly twisted.
The main spar on the upper wing completely came adrift on the second flight, when I landed a little heavier than intended. Not a really heavy landing, and no other damage. But a main spar dropping out?!?
To get it back in, I will have to remove the whole upper wing and straighten it, somehow. And lord knows what glue to use - epoxy? The spar seems to be aluminium.
This kit is total junk!
|Thread: How Windy is Too Windy|
When I see the seagulls walking, I give up and go home!
|Thread: Sanwa old 35mhz servos|
Nothing wrong with using old gear, it doesn't usually deteriorate if stored in dry conditions.
I would recommend replacing all the battery packs, however. These can and will lose capacity through lack of use. Also check carefully for "black wire" corrosion, which despite its name, happens on the negative lead regardless of colour! Have a good look at the transmitter negative lead and connections especially, as these are generally not so visible or accessible as the receiver ones. Carefully take the back off the tranny and have a good look!
If all looks good, the only other thing to do is to move all the sticks and servos *slowly* from one end to the other. This will show up any rough spots on the pots left by lack of use. Usually a few good wiggles will clear them, but check by moving them slowly.
Finally, a standard aerial down range check, and if it passes, you are good to go!
|Thread: 4.8v Futaba Servos|
I've been using Spektrum receivers since they first came out. Although I've now moved away from Spektrum, I still have a few models with Spektrum receivers on board, including one large, petrol powered scale helicopter.
I have never run them on anything other than 4-cells, AA on smaller models and sub-Cs on larger ones (as recommended by Frank S above). This is mainly due to having a LOT of JR servos that don't like higher voltages.
I have yet to experience a "brown-out".
I do use good quality switch harnesses.
I have, however, both experienced and witnessed far more issues with regulators and battery backers than I have ever seen or heard of from running Spektrum on 4-cell packs.
A *well-maintained* 4-cell pack and a decent switch harness (NOT one that incorporates a charge socket in the switch!) will be perfectly fine, in my experience.
The more you insert between the battery and the receiver, the more there is to go wrong! Keep It Simple!
Bert: Is your dad Barry, who used to fly up at Little Haldon in the 60's?
|Thread: FrSky FLVSS Smart Port LiPo Voltage Sensor|
The V8 series receivers do not support telemetry.
You need either a "D" or "X" series receiver to provide telemetry. Either of these will work with the Taranis, but the "D" series - like the "V" series - is obsolescent. I would recommend an "X" series receiver.
|Thread: PNP Repair|
Re: Stabilit Express - This is certainly excellent glue, but expensive and not easy to find nowadays. I came across it as the recommended glue for building the gearboxes on early Schluter helicopters. It was also recommended for fitting the wooden parts into the fibre-glass fuselages.
I've recently been re-building some old Schluters, and for the gearboxes they now recommend UHU Plus Endfest 300. This is a lot cheaper and more readily available than Stabilit Express.
Endfest 300 is an epoxy glue. Another option might be Uhu Plus Acrylit Express. This is more like Stabilit Express, with one part being powder. From the name, it seems to be some sort of acrylic rather than epoxy, but as all the literature is only in German, French and Italian, I can't be sure! I can make out that it is recommended for metal, porcelain, acrylic, glass, polystyrene, and polycarbonate - amongst others that I don't recognise!
One or the other ought to work!
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