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Member postings for Danny Fenton

Here is a list of all the postings Danny Fenton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk
24/03/2019 23:37:22

Managed a little on the Chippy after some indoor flying at Shawbury.

The wings are all fitted out, servos, undercarriage etc.

I reduced the spring strength, by cutting the heavy spring in half and replaceing one half with a softer one. Need to add some foam between the two springs to act as a damper, but seems to work well.


As everything is connected at the back, then we are able to roughly check the C of G, with my two Rx packs in the nose and a 5S 5000mAh pack up front we are spot on 115mm. I still have the cowl to add so we should be fine without any additional noseweight. The tailplane faffing wa worth it


I will show you the cockpit later when it is finished but I have removed the panels, believe it or not they are made of lite ply!!! I have also removed the covering and re-done the interior in black, looks much better, but you will have to wait for the final pics.

Tony B being the kind soul that he is has prineted me some nice 3D ones that will go in instead. He also printed me a pilot at just the right size Thanks Tony teeth 2




Edited By Danny Fenton on 24/03/2019 23:38:25

Thread: K3731 Martians Fury 1
24/03/2019 13:37:46

That is a tremendous relief

The Fury looks great, a real credit to you



Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk
21/03/2019 16:20:44

Okay a little bit more done.

I tried a larger sanding bar, well actually just did as Chris has and wound more paper on the piece of copper pipe until the size was closer. This has done the trick and thought the wing tube is now snug it can be slid of without risk to the wings internal structure.

I then moved on to the rudder and fin. On mine when the fuselage block is alligned the fin is offset heavily to the right, ie nose right. This is fine for an IC powered model, or electric with clockwise prop. But not if you wanted to do the model scale with A/C/W prop. ah well its not much of an issue really.

The rudder has an awful gret lump that is supposed to look like a trim tab on the trailing edge. The film was peeled back and the lump removed. The fine was then shaped and recovered in that area.



Rudder was attached using the provided fluffy hinges and trapped the piano wire wire tailwheel linkage.

The rudder and elevator throws were set. Had to use the very inner holes on the servos, and reduced the travel in the TX as well.



Thread: Tony B's replica
19/03/2019 20:19:40

Looking good Tony

Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk
16/03/2019 18:42:31

Excellent news Chris, i will have another go when I get home



Thread: RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI
16/03/2019 07:30:04

Dont forget Mick Reeves fork ends and flat wires. I have those.



Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk
15/03/2019 17:08:54

Hi Chaps and thanks for all your input, certainly food for thought.

To be honest it feels like the glass tubes are not happy to be sanded, they are also porous, so anything we use will probably soak into the tubes

As the issue is the last inch, and i would only need to pull one wing, as then you could twist the joiner to remove the other. I am going to make a screw jack to push the wing that half inch to get it loose.

If I can get some stuff such as ptfe I will give that a go. But having spent several hours on this already I am getting tired of the issues. Perkins haven't responded so far, and a post on RCGroups not much either.

I guess if it was easy everybody would build models......



15/03/2019 08:07:24

Thanks Peter, no amount of sanding is getting either of mine loose enough to get apart. Twisting gets it apart, but you have nothing to hold and twist.

I may devise a sort of reverse wing bolt in the fus. As you tighten, it pushes the wing off.

Very annoying. If i sand anymore tube away it will be too weak.



14/03/2019 23:55:04

Thanks Trevor, worth a shot. I have tried a silicone dry lube, but alas that didnt help.

I have reached out to the manufacturer, as Chris and I cannot be the only ones seeing the issue?



14/03/2019 20:41:04

Well spotted Chris, yours is wrong too then

Just laser levelled the model with the wings attached, aligned to the wing tips, and then the horizontal stab. a little sanding to get it spot on, then some epoxy to fix in place.




14/03/2019 18:37:22

This is a first, radio, esc and servos in the fus before the tailplane is on! ah well seemed easier than bashing the tail on the walls/ceiling




This is one of Chris Botts telem units. There will be an article in RCM&E about making one of these, I cheated and got Chris to do mine. He even designs the circuit board! Anyway this gives, volts, current Mah consumed, cell voltages even altitude. Clever chap is Chris.


Here is the Rx in the model, it sits plugged into one of Chris's dual power feed boards, the board accepts power and feeds it directly to the servos not via the Rx, if you need to disconnect the Rx it just slides back. All the servo wires remain attached to the power board.


I simply copied Chris's entire Chippy file into my new X10 via Companion, and everything is all set up, sticky throttle, aileron differential etc etc.

A question, I guess for LPP, how did you free up the wing tubes, they are as stiff as anything on mine and Chris's Chippys?

We have sanded the tubes in the wing, and it has got better, but still too stiff to get the model apart easily. I had to pry my wings off with a steel ruler wedged between the wing and the wing root fairing!




Thread: Elan 100 Build
13/03/2019 07:54:12

Looks really good Andy, proper glider lines



Thread: Tony B's replica
12/03/2019 14:07:50

That looks fantastic Tony really well done

So many novel ways of doing stuff. what are the N struts made from?


Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk
12/03/2019 12:14:58

Now there is a great idea....... but no I need to get back to the fury



12/03/2019 11:44:58

Feeling a little under the weather, probably another cold.... sigh. Anyway it has meant my enthusiasm has waned a little.

Anyway I hate iron on covering, so thought I would get that nasty job out of the way. Not as keen on Oracover as others it seems, but it is done now.



weight difference is interesting, if you consider that the distance from the tailplane to the C of G is 3 times the distance to the area where weight could be added to the nose. therefore the saving of 100g equates to 300g of nose weight removed, plus the 100g lost at the tail. So a 400g saving overall. I think that will alter the flight envelope noticeably, but a comaparison to Chris's will tell us.



Thread: Hello from Italy
11/03/2019 08:05:37

Hi Simon, and welcome



Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk
10/03/2019 17:05:04

Okay was it worth three days effort? Maybe not, but it is done, I will cover the bits and move on

I was going to use Robarts with a recessed hinge and shrouds, hence the slots on the left elevator, but I climbed back from the brink, and fitted the fluffy mylar hinges

All good fun, which is all that matters.




10/03/2019 10:10:30

Spent a very pleasant couple of hours last evening with pizza and beer setting up my new X10 with Chris Bott.

We flashed my X10 to the latest firmware, and then we copied Chris's setup from his X12S to my Companion software, I then copied the model into my Tx, the software realised the Tx's were different and converted the file. I then copied the config to the Tx. The reason you do it this way is to avoid copying Chris's Tx callibration.

Some of the sensors, Volta, Amps, Alt etc needing re-discovering but after 30 minutes I had an identical config to Chris's. Awesome radio.

Chris makes these sensor boards, based around an Arduino processor, he also has designed this really nifty power board which allows dual power feeds for your Rx, if one fails the other will take the load. A clever cahp is Chris!


Chris has an article on the sensor board coming up in a future issue of RCM&E, should be good! Chris is helping to put the "E" back in RCM&E, well done Chris, and thanks!



10/03/2019 09:04:02

Thanks Rich, I was very tempted to take the easy route. Chris Bott and I fly at the same club, and have identical setups motor, servos radio etc. So we will no doubt have a go on each others model so we will see what a difference it makes.

Apart from 3 days extra work, i am pleased with the outcome.



Thread: Indoor Scale R/C entry Piper Super Cub PA-18
09/03/2019 15:08:53

Excellent, well done Graham, sorry to hear you have been distracted from the build.

A nuisance about your cowl too, you may be as well to start again with some fresh foam.

The blue foam I have was from Sheffield Insulations, a Dow Corning product I think, though it is no longer available

If anybody knows of a comparable foam please let us all know. I have heard the larger B and Q are doing some thick boards of a similar material??

You must use epoxy resin around foam, not Polyester. you can tell as epoxy is almost odourless, polyester stinks to high heavens! And polyester is half the price of epoxy.

If you need a small block of foam for a couple of cowls let me know? I don't have much but you don't need much so I can probably spare some



Edited By Danny Fenton on 09/03/2019 15:09:53

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