By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Handyman

Here is a list of all the postings Handyman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: WARNING
13/11/2007 08:42:00

Tentpeg,  I would be very careful when buying servos from Towerpro labelled "Digital" or " Digi". I have taken to task several suppliers in Hong Kong about this subject, and have had an apology in every case.

I have brought several Towerpro MG 995 servo's, that were being traded as Digital servo's. They are not Digital servo's, as I found out, but they are a very good bullet proof standard servo with bags of torque. I am using one on the rudder of my Discus glider.  But I have found Futaba digital servo's for sale on the web, that I have checked out in my Ripmax catalogue, and they have been as low as half the Ripmax price, but the post and packing does tend to bring the price back up to almost the same price as the UK.

I think the answer is to surf the sites in HK, compare the different postal rates, compare the savings that you could make, and then make a couple of test buy's.

That is what I did, when I decided to dabble in this electrickery flying.

Regards..... Handyman

12/11/2007 23:05:00

Hi Tentpeg, I wasn't advocating Hobbystores as " the be all and end all " of stores, I was just trying to make a point about how much mark up the English model shops seem to put on every item they sell.

As another example, about two years ago, in an elec***c magazine, I saw an article about a "Simprop" synthesised Rx that did'nt need a crystal, it just tuned itself to the strongest/closest  signal. I aquired one from a shop in Germany, and the cost was around £45.00, which was roughly 66 euros.

A couple of months later, my local model shop had two of them in their showcase, cost to the english, £66.00s. Another case of converting euros straight to pounds.

I spoke to the german proprieters on the phone about the cost to me. and they openly admitted that they had made a respectable profit on the price that I bought it at, so what was my model shops markup.?????

Thread: Aileron Differential and Flap problems with JR gear
12/11/2007 19:24:00

Oh dear! what have I started here. Trust me, a new boy on the block and look what I go and do.

Oliver, your idea sounds fine, but on my gear ch1 = aileron, ch6 = flaps. So where do I go from here.

All I want to do, is to make sure that my upgoing aileron travels further than the downgoing one, which the good book says, "Might cause adverse yaw in the wrong direction, if differential is not used"

Does this really matter that much, will we suffer from the excess drag cause by the downgoing aileron, if they move the same distance as the upgoing one.

I think I am going to put the kettle on and study the manual again.

Thread: adding differential to ailerons via Tx
11/11/2007 17:17:00

I think you are correct David, I will probably forget flaps for a while until I build a new wing for the Ready, but it is a slippy aircraft on approach and does not seem to want to slow down at times, but the flaps make it a different aircraft, especially when it gets into "ground effect". it just floats about a foot off the floor until you cut the throttle, and then down it sits without a bounce.

Thanks for all of the advice,I will sit back now and read all of the other ideas coming in, especially the answers to Doug Ireland's problem.

Thread: Aileron Differential and Flap problems with JR gear
11/11/2007 17:08:00

Thinking about that statement, if both ailerons are down an equal amount, and you introduce say a tad of left stick, the angle of the left flap/aileron will decrease, but the angle of the right flap/aileron/ will probably increase slightly.

Now, will this decrease drag on the left wing, but give more lift to the right wing, adjusting the angle of bank in doing so, or will the opposite happen. Mind you, the rudder tends to be more effective at low speeds, so perhaps that is the answer when we are using flaperons.

I rest my case.

11/11/2007 16:59:00

As long as the flap control was turned off, everything seemed to be normal. the action of drooping the flaps/ailerons was when my aileron movement went all too pot, or so I thought.

I have an old Army friend who flew a DHC2 Beaver aircraft when we were out in Aden 1965-67. He tells me that whenever they lowered flap, the ailerons also drooped down as well, but not as far as the flaps did. He tells me that even with the aircraft set up like that they still had full aileron authority. with bags of drag and a pronounced nose-down attitude.

I think we are getting too demanding of our radio control equipment and not enjoying the flying more.

11/11/2007 16:19:00

Hi Doug, join my thread with pleasure, two heads are better than  one, and your problem sounds very much like mine, when I was using the flaperon function on my ARC Ready.

The Futaba manual tells you all of the things to do, but I found things very similar to you. I did not dare to use the flap function until I was established on finals with my wings level, because as soon as I lowered flap, I lost my ailerons. All the movement that I could get was one or the other aileron lifting slightly, and that was all.

I have either got to purchase some more new gear, which I am loathsome to do, at my age, or build a new wing for the Ready, with separate flaps, and set the required differential mechanically as I have always done in the past.

Thread: adding differential to ailerons via Tx
11/11/2007 15:36:00

Hi David,  I wish I had waited a bit longer before buying my 6exa gear, it may be page 20 in your book but it's page 13 in my 6exa book.

I can get into the flaperon programme ok, so are you saying that I can set servo travel in this mode, but ignore the flap function that I also get from this mix?????. I can always give it a try.

I thought that computer radios were supposed to make things easier, not demand a degree in Rocket science.......DOH!!!!!!!!Whats a wrinkly to do about all of this.???

10/11/2007 20:56:00

I think the best thing that I can do, is to ring up Ripmax on monday and pick their brains, providing of course that they are au fait with these sets.

Still, you have given me food for thought, will have to have a good think over the weekend, and another look through the manual.

Thanks again. Much appreciated. Tony.

10/11/2007 17:08:00

Hi Timbo, nice to chat with you, as I have said, my gear is the Futaba 6exa set. I actually have used the flapperon mode on my ARC Ready, and although it slowed the aicraft down considerably, I also lost a lot of aileron movement.  I put things back as they were, and resolved to build my Ready a new wing with seperate flaps, and that would solve the fast landings symptoms.

With the ready wing, it seems that the control horns are already made to be angling forwards, so in effect giving more up than down, so no problems there. It's just that I do not think that I am getting the most out of this gear, but I can not find any mention of "differential", anywhere in the manual.

I do still tend to refer to my old radio control book that I have had for " God knows how long" and set the differential mechanically. I will have to try what you suggest.

And just as an aside, I am an old "mode1" flyer, my first bird was a " Super Sixty" and I used a Macregor 2 channel radio set with push buttons and wind up rubber driven escapements. I didnt have a throttle in those days. We were advised to fit the propeller the other way around to reduce the thrust, and not put too much fuel in the tank for the first few flights until things were trimmed out.

How about that then, all you Mode2 junkies.????

Thread: WARNING
10/11/2007 16:05:00

I have said for years that the aeromedilling fraternity amongst us are being ripped off, and have been for a good many years now.

Do you all remember when Al's Hobbies first came on the scene, "wow" when I saw their first advert. I thought,"here's a breath of fresh air in the modelling scene" very reasonable prices and very well stocked shops with a good mail order service. Sad to say that did not last long. Prices soon climbed to match the rest.

Far be it for me to suggest "Price fixing" in the model trade, but scan through the RCM&E mag and see how closely the prices of things seem to reflect each other.

I had a friend who went out to the United States last year and I asked him to price me an OS 91 FS Surpass, and compare it to the price asked for it at my local model shop. He went into a store named "Hobbystore" and the price over the counter came to £160.00 pounds converted from dollars. That was the average selling price for that particular engine all over the states, and they were still making a profit and were doing quite well.

This friend is a shooter, a hunter, and he aquired a catalogue showing a complete range of hunting and shooting gear, and it so happened that he had the same catalogue from an English supplier at home. When he checked them side by side, the prices were the same, except that the dollar sign had been changed to a pound sign.

I rest my case.

I have set up a friendly rapport with a supplier in Hong Kong, and I have been getting some of my modelling goods from him, with an excellent after sales service.

Thread: adding differential to ailerons via Tx
10/11/2007 15:34:00

Can any whizz-kid out there tell this white haired old (66) aeromedeller how to introduce aileron differential, electronically to my aircraft, instead of mechanically, as I am used to doing.

I am using Futaba's  T6EXA equipment, and although I have read the manual through several times, I still don't seem to have hacked it,

Any help would be greatly appreciated...Handyman

Thread: The Dauntless build
02/08/2007 20:02:00
Hi Graham, you are a man after my own heart. Nothing gives me more pleasure in seeing a project take shape on the building board or actually in your hands. I have always been impressed by the accuracy of a dry fit of components produced by the lazer method.

Do you find that the burnt edges of the parts take away some of the integrity of the glued joint, or do you a light sanding before the final assembly.

I am very much like you, and I never hesitate in changing something on a plan or kit, to make it ,(in my opinion), work better.

Keep up the good work, but don't burn too much midnight oil.

Regards...Handyman.
Thread: non modelling
21/02/2007 13:56:00
I don't see any reason why non-modelling subjects should'nt be discussed on this forum. I think that any form of discussion is perfectly ok, and can always be brought around to modelling in some form or other, either by fair means or foul.

After all, is there any other subject thats as good as discussing "modelling" in its broader terms.

What I would like to see discussed, is for some-one to explain to a 66 yr old modeller how to go about setting up my Futaba computer radio, to do all the things that it can do, and explain the different terms and what they mean. I am talking about terms such as "exponential,differential,end-point adjustment, and why when I manage to dial in flapperons, do I lose travel on my ailerons. Technology is great, but don't forget us old wrinklies
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find RCM&E! 

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Slec
Wings & Wheels 2019
Sussex Model Centre
CADMA
Cambridge Gliding Club
electricwingman 2017
CML
Sarik
Advertise With Us
Latest "For Sale" Ads
Has home isolation prompted you to start trad' building?
Q: The effects of Coronavirus

 Yes - for the first time
 Yes - but Ive bashed balsa before
 No - Ive existing projects on the bench
 No - Im strictly an ARTF person

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us