Here is a list of all the postings Handyman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Crane Fly Light , Autotogyro Trainer , For experienced pilots trying autogyros for the first time.|
I should have said that I got the parts mixed up and blissfully carried on thinking that I knew what I was doing.
I should have remembered, always read the instructions. Next time I will.
Hi Tom, Tony Bamford here. I did some proof reading of your Cranefly Lite when you had part of it completed. I have a small problem caused by my getting parts for the SFH autogyro and the parts for the follow on Crane Fly Lite. I have managed to use the delta plate from the Crane Fly lite on my almost completed SFH so now I am flummoxed with regard to the mast angle. And to compound that I have made my blades the same as the Lite blades and not as the SFH one's should be.
On the SFH you advise a mast angle of 8-9 degrees, but on reading the lite instructions, the autogyro body side pieces are cut with an angle of 5 degrees, front and back which in turn fixes the mast at 5 degrees.
My question is this. Shall I split the difference and mount my mast at 5-6 degrees and see how she flies. I tested my blades today in a fairly strong wind and they really did sing when held at an angle, so it should be flyable on the maiden flight.
I hope you can understand my ravings Tom.
|Thread: closed loop wire /fishing alternate|
No problem finding ferrules as you call them, I used either M2 or M3 depending on the diameter of the cord, as for stretch, I experienced very little stretch and any that I did get, I had enough adjustment to take it up.
Best of luck, each to our own, I say.
Hi Ben. Just to add my penny worth. I have been using common garden strimmer cord for my rudders for quite a few years now. Usually 2 to 3mm diameter to which I add the metal Kwik link extenders, using cyano.
Once the cyano has gone off, I gently squeeze a couple of light crimps unto the plain section of the extender and there you are. I made up a test rig when I first considered using this idea. I made up a 2 mtr length of strimmer cord as above and added the Kwik links to which I made up a couple of wire hooks. I then hung this over a hook screwed into my shed roof and then I hung a house brick to the hooks and left the whole thing to hang, gradually adding more weight until I must have had at least 10 lbs of dead weight on there. I have never had a failure, and you can find various colours if you shop around.
It works for me, so I thought I would mention it.
|Thread: Brrrrrr, winter's here, how much flying are you getting in?|
Same story here. I haven't been able to get any flying in since the back end of October when this weather pattern began to form. Although there have been a couple of flying opportunities with fairly decent weather and wind strength, they have always been when "Er Indoors" wanted to go and visit relatives or we have had unannounced and unexpected guests, but even so, our field is still waterlogged and access with motor vehicles is just impossible
I have been champing at the bit ever since, but on the bright side, I have managed to get some repairs done that were on the back burner and have almost completed a "Big Stik" for when the weather improves, (round about May time, so the weather forecasters say) Oh dear, have to get my fix on my Phoenix flight sim.
|Thread: Bistormer 60" (A Barnstormer with more ribs)|
Today at 12:45 PM
Hi Danny, that's great news. I will get on and purchase some from the Balsa Cabin. I will leave you in peace now. I am going to brave the rain and get down to my shed and do a bit more to a model I am putting together. Cannot do much flying, our field is absolutely water-logged, so plenty of Phoenix sim flying at the moment.
Hi Danny, excellent work as usual. I have been following your progress on various models over the years, trying to emulate some of your practices. You are a very adaptable modeller and I think you are possibly a bit like me, in that I often see an alternative use for something that normally has nothing at all to do with aeromodelling.
Can I be very cheeky now and ask you where you obtained those pins from. Much better that the straight pins that I still tend to use.
Looking forward to reading about the first flights.
Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 12/02/2014 12:17:32
|Thread: Phoenix Online Session|
Hi all. Has anyone tried using the Infinity landscape screen and clicking on "view" and then "camera" and selecting "Cockpit" or "Chase" and then selecting a challenge such as Balloon bursting. If it sets up properly, it can be quite fun if you are on your own, trying to burst the balloons or doing the bomb drop.
Just thought you might be interested, unless you have already experienced this.
|Thread: Servo Help needed.|
Hi again Tony. Been to the shed and found some springs that will show what I was getting at. They are too short for your aircraft, but ideally you need springs about 4-5 cms long or in old money,1.5 to 2 inches long, close wound.
I will make up the example tomorrow. If you PM me your address, I will get it off to you on Monday. I will include a good length of the fly line that I have used on several models and a sample of the heat shrink tube that I use when I join the line together.
Heat shrink tube from Maplins.
Just a thought, before you remove the old wires, and in case of any problems fitting the new stuff, use the old wires to pull the new ones into place. Just a tip from a 73 years old modeller. Always try and find the easy solution!!!!!. Hee,hee,hee.
Tony, when this blessed rain and wind eases up, I will go and have a look in my shed. I seem to remember a pair of ideal springs hanging around in my bit box. If I can find them, and if I can lay my hands on the fly fishing line, I will make a mock up so that you can see what I am talking about. I will then let you know and you can PM me your address and I will put them in the post, if that's ok with you.
It would work the same if you used fishing line, although I think that Stevo is referring to plastic covered fishing trace wire here. When I used the fly fishing line, I doubled it back through the servo horn and used some small diameter heat shrink tube along with a small squirt of super glue, then an application of heat to shrink the tube and you have a strong flexible connection which should work very smoothly.
I tend to used 3mm strimmer cord on a lot of my models with a Kwik link adapter super glued on the ends and then give the adapter a light crimping with some side cutting pliers. Never had one pull out in 20 years of flying.
Hi Tony, another Tony here. After having a closer look at your tail wheel steering problem, I noticed that you had a crimp on the one side and what looks like just a knot on the other side. Your crimp could be a major problem here, with it being so large, it will obviously catch somewhere during its operation, "Sod's" law says it will happen. If you got rid of the crimp from that end of the model, perhaps double up the operating wire and bring the crimps near to the steering servo where there is more space. then some plastic snake outer, glued to the sides of the retract servo housing, should keep those wire from fouling up.
There does not have to be a straight run of wire from the other servo to the steering horns for it to operate smoothly. But I still maintain that two small springs at the steering servo end, will remove the problem of wires going slack and fouling up.
I used to do some Fly fishing some years ago and I kept a few yards of fly line, the fluorescent type which had quite a good breaking strain, 7lbs I think. I have used that quite successfully for closed loop rudders in the past, but you still need to maintain some tension throughout the retract operation.
Do I take it that the wires are going slack when you retract the tail wheel. If that is the case, I would try and introduce a couple of light springs at the steering servo end and when the tailwheel is retracted, set the springs to the minimum tension that will keep the wires reasonably taut, then when the wheel is lowered, there will be more tension applied by the light springs, which should help to avoid the wires getting caught up. The previous suggestion of running the wires through plastic straws will also assist the smooth operation of your steering. something like springs from a biro or springs from a steerable tailwheel set.
|Thread: Phoenix Online Session|
Will try and drop in later if its still running
|Thread: Crane Fly Trainer Autogyro|
Hi tom, Tony Bamford here again. Stitches are out now but finger is still mighty sore. Not done any work in the shed since my accident. Gonna have to get my finger out,( pardon the pun).
Have you considered the aluminium square section tube that they use for TV aerials, or woulld that be too heavy. Just a thought. I was mighty chuffed with the blades from AJ Blades. They were super.
Hi Deyrick. Mine was an i/c incident. Happened because I changed my starting routine. I had to have a check on whether I had a damaged tendon before they would sew me up. Feeling fine now, but stitches in finger keep pulling and I tend to forget and try and use the hand as I normally would. I still love the hobby though, and the crack from the others in the club.
Hi everyone. I got my blades for the SFH/CFL today from AJ Blades. They are superb and well worth the money spent. The packing of them is also brilliant. Mine came in a sturdy tube with lots of bubble wrap around the blades and at the ends, plus the tubes are sealed with custom end caps. No chance of damage there.
It also turns out that I was their first customer. Looks as though I have done something right for a change. It beats last Sundays flying session that put me in hospital having the third finger of my right hand stitched up. What idiot put a spinning propeller in the way of my hand,( I have to confess that it was me Sir).
Ahh well!, it got me off washing up duties until next Monday when the stitches come out. All together now.....Ahhhhhhhh!!
|Thread: Super Sixty - any good mods?|
One thing that I forgot to mention, When I first started to use nylon as a covering on my aircraft, an old modeller said to me, and I quote," You will always have a bag to carry the bits home in". Do you know, he was correct. The nylon covering always seemed to keep all the broken pieces of balse inside and repairs were always easy to carry out.
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