Here is a list of all the postings Clive Moore has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lipo dead cell - what to do?|
Thanks for the response Tim. Yes, the starter is a 24v Sullivan. I got fed up with the smaller ones I have stalling on the larger petrols.
Bit of a bummer having to ditch £90 worth of battery. I know some people at my club who do this stuff in their sleep so I might ask one of them if they will have a go at removing the cell for me. I'm sure they will if I tell them there's a pint in it for them.
Hi, I need some advice please.
I have a 2500mah 6s lipo for use in my starter. One of the cells seems to have died. It only reads 1.64v whilst all the others are at 4.2v.
What should I do?
Can I remove the dead cell and use the pack as a 5s? if so how do you remove a cell?
I'm guessing but would be pleased to hear differently that with a cell down to 1.64v it's a gonna?
Can I continue to use the pack as is and ignore the dead cell and use it at the lower voltage?
I'm a dummy when it comes to this stuff, all my flight batteries are NiMh as I fly IC.
Any help much appreciated
|Thread: Pick a Plane 2011 - chat and FW-190 build|
As we have had WW2 aircraft before, can we take this opportunity to get away from WW2 and into something a bit earlier, IE WW1 or between the wars.
I personally believe that some of the worlds most beautiful aircraft were built between the wars.
Just my opinion.
|Thread: Pick a Plane 2011|
1) Gloucester Gladiator.
2) Hawker Hind
3) DH 53
Edited By Clive Moore on 21/01/2011 10:09:10
|Thread: Nats 2010 - whos going, pics, video...|
|I was following the scale comp on Saturday. Does anyone know what the final placings were?|
Edited By Clive Moore on 01/09/2010 01:44:59
|Thread: Mistake with Lipo discharging - Advice needed|
Tim, thanks for the advice its really helpful..
I have discharged the pack partly to understand what's going on. I do understand that in doing so I am using up some of the packs life but I see it as an investment in my own training.
I decided to discharge the pack again only this time using a different charger. The results were different from what I got with the first charger. This time cells 5 and 6 discharged down to 3.4 (ish) volts whilst cells 1 to 4 came down to just below 3v and the charger cut off with a "cell volts mismatch charge terminated" message.
The good news is that I managed to find that BM6 cell voltage monitor at Falcons RCS www.falconsrcs.co.uk and it works really well. As well as cycling through each cell voltage and the total pack voltage it emits a loud buzz when a cell or cells get down to 3v so hopefully this will prevent me from doing the same thing again.
I have also invested in a second 6s pack of the same type and make as the problem pack. When I put the new pack on to a balanced charge it does the balancing bit very quickly. When the older pack gets to the balancing stage it takes a good hour to do. So I guess that my discharging down below 3v has caused some issues. The packs I'm using are Flighttech EON-X Lite which at £55 are about a 1/3rd of the price of some other 6s packs and I assume that a more expensive pack may have withstood my abuse better?
Hi, thought I'd give you an update.
I have now cycled the pack 5 times. Each time I discharge it gives me 2265 mah from a pack that has a stated capacity of 2500 mah.
The discharge is always terminated early due to a "volts mismatch". On inspection of the graph that my charger displays on my PC it is cell 1 that suddenly drops to 2.6v whilst the other cells are all at 3.3v.
Each time I charge I have done a balanced charge.
The pack is not "puffy" at all and only gets very slightly warm near the end of the discharge, again according to the PC screen the temperature is rising only about 2 degrees or so.
So as this pack is not in an airframe do you think its OK to keep using it in the starter or should I bite the bullet and get a new pack?
I've heard so many horror stories about LiPos that I'm a bit nervous.
What would you guys do?
Hi Tim, thank you for your reply. I am reassured as I have now cycled the pack twice with good results.
Re the battery checker device that you gave me the link to, a very nice man at BRC suggested I get one when I purchased the pack from him and it works by plugging into the balance lead, it then cycles through each cell showing its voltage and then gives the total pack voltage, is this the device you mean?
If yes then presumably I can cut the return wire on the balance lead extender that I have fitted and put a simple push button switch in line to 'push to check' the state of the cells?
The reason for putting the switch in line is that someone told me that if I leave the checker connected all day at the field than it will slowly drain the capacity, or am I worrying about nothing?
Firstly I am a Lipo newby. I've been using NIxx for years but have taken the plunge into Lipo's and I think I have made a mistake.
I decided to run my Sullivan starter on 24v as I now have a number of large petrol engines.
I did the conversion using a 6s pack. Today was the first time I have used the starter since the conversion and it worked well. As I was setting up a new 40cc MVVS I had the need to do about 35 / 40 starts in fairly quick succession.
The outcome of all this is that I let the battery fall below 3v per cell. The actual volts per cell were 2.3v / 2.4v. I put the pack on a balanced charge at 1c and the volts per cell now read 4.2.
My questions are:-
1) Have I damaged the pack and how do I tell if I have?
2) Should I be doing anything specific with the pack now that its been below 3v per cell.
3) Is there anything I can fit between the starter and the pack that will shut off the supply when it gets down to 3v per cell?
Any help would be much appreciated.
|Thread: Painting a Aluminium spinner|
Hi guys, thanks for the help. The reason for the electric starter is a 40cc petrol engine thats a devil to start from cold even with the choke etc, plus no retarding electronic ignition. Once its started it will run all day and has proven to be super reliable.
I also prefer to keep my digits as far away from the rotating bit as much as possible having had a few close shaves so to speak.
Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 14/07/2010 14:21:25
|Hi all, I can do with some advice on painting a spinner. The spinner has to be painted half white and half black. I need to know what you guys use that will stand being used with an electric starter. Also any tips on technique would be good I.E. primers to use etc. I'll be using an Iwata air brush.|
|Thread: I need help to find a new spark plug|
Hi all, I have managed to find a replacement plug its an NGK BPM R6F which my local garden machinery stockist has on the shelf. The plug is a shoulder type rather than a washer type. I eventually, with the help of some one on another forum found the info on Jens site. I'm only getting it locally rather than from Jen as I want to fly tomorrow.
Thanks for your help
Hi all, I have a Jen 26cc petrol engine which is fitted with a Jenn Feng 9295-320001 plug. I have checked Just Engines web site (they originally supplied the engine) but they do not have any of these plugs listed. I've looked on the net and cant find one of these plugs.
Anyone got any ideas where I might get a replacement plug from?
|Thread: Petrol vs Glow power comparrison|
|Thanks guys, that's very helpful. Ackers, thanks for the comparisons, they make a good general reference.|
|I had problems when I posted the first time as it filled the page with adverts? But I have since re edited and it seems to have accepted the changes.|
I am looking for a listing of comparative power of four stroke glow and petrol engines. I did see something published a couple of years ago but cant now find it.
I am considering the purchase of a Black Horse 84" Chipmunk. The suggested engine is a 45 to 50cc petrol. The published weight of this model is 13 to 14 Lbs. At this weight I would have thought a 150 to 180 four stroke glow would have done the job which I always thought was equivalent to 26 or 30cc petrol. By comparison to this YT have there 81" Hurricane which weighs 15 to 16 Lbs and the recommended engine is a 26cc petrol engine. I mention the YT Hurricane because its a similar weight and layout (low wing) and therefore you would of expected the engine comparison to be similar.
Can anyone help me with this or point me to some written comparison work?
I don't want a model which is ridiculously overpowered but nor do I want to fly something that is very marginal on power.
Edited By Clive Moore on 30/04/2010 09:40:11
Edited By Clive Moore on 30/04/2010 09:41:48
|Thread: Kit suitable for a 26cc petrol|
I fly a 1/4 scale Cub which weighs 15lbs (lots of detail) on a 26cc petrol and a 18x8 prop. She flys very well with power to spare. Take off is at about three quarters throttle and cruise is at less than half throttle. The engine is a Jen petrol 26cc which I think comes from the same factory (or looks like it) as the RCGF that Als hobbies sell.
With regard to flying her, she flys realy well, it took me about six flights to get her set up the way I wanted her. She does need rudder in the turns to keep everything in line but you can mix that in on the TX if you dont want to do it manually, although its a good skill to learn especially if you want to fly WW1 types. I've also got 50% differencial on ailerons to stop the adverse yaw. If you turn using rudder and slight opposite aileron the turns are wonderfully flat, just like the full size.
Here are some pics:-
If your interestead in a good ARTF WW1 type then YT do a nice Nieuport 28 which will fly well on a 26cc.
Good luck with your choice.
|Thread: Are we an ageing hobby?|
At 14 (1968) years old I built a KK control line with a second hand diesel engine up front. Had three flights and then crashed but those three flights were enough to get me hooked for the rest of my life (so far.)
|Thread: The Mode Survey - what do you fly?|
1 mode 2
2 South East (beds and bucks)
3 South East and South Midlands (Northampton)
4 From an instructor up to my first solo then on my own.
|Thread: Problems with a nearly new laser 70|
|Hi all, I'm having a problem with my just run in Laser 70 (six 8 min flights + bench run). |
The problem started today. When I start the engine it starts with the first turn of the starter and runs ok until I remove the glow start. It then continues to run for about 30 to 60 seconds or so and then dies regardless of throttle position. The tick over is fluctuating up and down very rhythmicly for some reason before it dies.
I have changed the plug (OS FS) and also changed the fuel tubing from the tank to the carb and also removed both needles and blown through to make sure there isn't a blockage. The vent from the tank is facing straight forwards.
I have several Lasers and all run well and I have not experienced this sort of problem previously.
Does anyone have any ideas?
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