Here is a list of all the postings Flanker . has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Shopping Woe. Looking for new YAK ish thing|
Well THAT is all very helpful, thanks guys ! Get xmas paid for and way hey hey !
I am trying to find a replacement for my ageing YAK 54. I want a similar plane of around 1.7 meters. 120 size is good, though my YAK ... ment for a .90 has a DLE 30 cc in it. Don't realy want bigger as transport becomes harder, and servos etc start to get pricey. I am not a mad 3D er so "normal" gear is ok.
Been trawling the net but most things are either too small or for 50cc and big and expensive. Found a few things on the big name sites but all are "out of stock" and seem to stay that way. Any ideas folks ?
Go well F
|Thread: Acro Wot ARTF (balsa) chat|
Hi Chris. Re speed. It is important to understand that the speed of an aircraft is not really dependent on the THROTTLE . The speed of an aircraft is regulated by its angle of attack. If your acrowot flies too fast all you have to do is add some UP TRIM and the reduce power until the plane flies straight and level. Too much up trim will require too little power for S&L flight and the aircraft will stall. It is fundamental to happy flying to understand that speed comes from TRIM. Our models fly just like the big ones and in a big one your instructor will say things like "trim for 80 knots" . Power controls climb or decent . Imagine that you are at a nice height in the circuit, but the plane is too fast to be comfortable. So add say 3 beeps up. The machine will begin to climb so reduce power gently until she flies level. Now if you whack open the power she'll climb like mad. If you back of power she will sink. This is the key to nice landing approaches too. My Acro has the ailerons set up to drop 3 or 4 mm when I pull the airbrake switch and the elevator moves up a bit to compensate for the pitch change. Now I have a nice draggy set up and need only to add or remove power to control the decent. All very calm. Remember we TRIM FOR SPEED and control hight with power. If you want to fly fast for aeros just trim back to neutral and watch the plane speed up. Limiting your throttle is as king for trouble and won't really give you the best for the model. It will also keep you in a bad habit ! IE trimming once and then never touching it again. Have fun, go well, F
Hi. The ARTF is lightly built. It has built up wings and a ply frame fuse. With a .60 up front the airframe delivers a very nice ride indeed. It wont take the bashing that glass foam wings and home buld fuse would but if you don't bash your models then no worries. Ripmax say that they have spares - wings etc - I believe.
That said it will take hard landings and when you hit a pile of rocks in the middle of the field the U/C glues back on with no trouble. It is very cheap too. For the time saved in building and the excelent performance on a .60 I would say that it is a good punt.
I love mine ! Flanker
|Thread: RCGF 15cc|
Flanker here. I got a refund on the RCGF as it would not carburate properly and there were problems with the reed valve. I changed it for a DLE 30 and never looked back ! NGK plugs are very good. Sensor should be ok where it is.
Good luck !
|Thread: Phoenix (Far East) Models Distributor|
I know I have asked before but I can't find the thread. Who disributes Phoenix Models in Europe and the UK ?
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer|
Glad you got down in one piece ! For sure the balance point is wrong ! Mine was the same 22 years ago ! Add some lead and fly befor adding down thrust. You can do the down thrust thing by adding some washers under the rear mounting holes on the engine.
You can improve the aileron response by mixing in a small amount of rudder, Pupeteers like rudder.
The landing issue. The airframe will fly amazingly slowly. Get to a good hight and use the elevator trim. Add some up and throttle back untill it stops climbing. Keep adding a bleep at a time untill it gets stally. The stall is a non event with the Pup and it WON¨T spin - I have tried very hard !
The aircraft has a wide speed range so don't be afraid to use the trims to get "Scout Mode" - good for strafeing runs and aerobatics, and Slow mode for landing and silly stuff.
|Thread: RCME June 2013|
That was my point Lee. I feel that as we have such super flying shots there is no problem with less quality for the others - a mix. For ME I would prefer some low grade photos if they TOLD the STORY.
Due to quality worries we got none and the review was poorer for it - not to knock YOUR work me old mate, there was nowt wrong with the copy ! Prod ED boy....
Hi All. Astute readers will remember that I engaged in a sad bout of winging last month about the quality of photos in the mag being too good.
Well here we go again. The Crescent Tornado review. Here we have a KIT that we presume was built.
Lee Smalley tells us about the build. Great. But where are the pictures of the build ? We have many nice flying pics of a nice plane - "ready to fly" in fact. But no build photos. Why ? Could it be because Lee had to meet up with a pro photographer at the field ? But alas did not have this facility at home ?
I THINK that most of us readers would be quite happy with a few grainy shots from Lee's phone that showed the BUILD , the WOOD, The WOOD in the BOX ?
Come on guys please don't slick trick your mag so high that all we have are tasty full colour high density shots of finished aircraft. I want to see hands, tools, glue, mess - you know REAL STUFF that we DO in this hobby ! Black and White would have been fine - because we would have the FANTASTIC flying shots too. We used to have just the build in grainy B&W now we have gone all the way to the other extreme !
Or am I on my own ...... again. Flanker
Edited By Flanker . on 15/05/2013 10:01:36
|Thread: A Nice Blast From The Past|
Edited By Flanker . on 15/05/2013 09:42:13
|Thread: In your experience what's the most common cause of a crash?|
I have had two planes lost due to battery issues. These were my fault so as I am the pilot AND flight mech I guess pilot error covers it !
Once we have full auto pilot this will be a thing of the past..... along with the fun ....
|Thread: Flair Puppeteer|
Guys. Why does no one fit a RCV 58 ? it is the perfect motor for the Puppeteer, it has a low cylinder height and fits well. The power is ample.
Support a bit of British engineering huh ?
|Thread: Acro Wot ARTF (balsa) chat|
Hi. With my Acro Wot I have a flapperon set up. Both ailerons drop around 3 or 4 mm more is not very comfortable in roll. A nice low idle. With the flapperon there is an elevator compensation mix. The main thing with flaps and landing is the TRIM s you need to adjust the acro's trim on elevator from the normal fun position to a little up , the Acrowot will fly very slowly in quite a nose high attitude with flaps. You can try with the elevator stick and when you find the nice sweet slow spot adjust your trim to that. When you a trimmed for slow flight just line up and use the throttle to control the height.
This is the full size technique and works well where I fly because there is little space and NO WIND.
Works well with this floaty model. F
|Thread: RCM&E May 2013 Feedback|
Speak for your self Lee. I am a fine piece of A** ! Djay. You are SO right. Just what I am talking about !
I agree steve. That is what I was talking about. I would like to see some work happening on these ARTF s , Hands, glue etc. Is the odd shot of the quality below so bad if it tells the story. There are plenty of super flying shots, and static too. How 'bout some home brew shots mixed in too.
Sort of thing i'd like to see mixed with the slick stuff. F
The thing is Lee that I pay out 60 Pounds a year to have RCM&E so they must be doing something right !
It's just that saying "Great Mag" on a feedback page won't help anyone. Yes the content does reflect what we do. And yes it is way above other mags that I have seen. But I have seen stuff on the forum that would be great if it was available to non site users . It is just not so classy .
My thoughts were provoked by looking at some old issues and finding them appealing . They were a little more user friendly, and had more user content. The rougher user bits went well with the slicker bits. It is a bit like stereo and quadraphonic sound it all got very clever, but most folks were and are happy with one rough old speaker - or these days a phone speaker!
Don't want the mag to downgrade what it does now, but it might be an idea for staff and editors to have a good look at the old issues now and again. Perhaps they already do.
Lee. What I was getting at was that perhaps something can become to slick and glossy for its own good.
My point was that in times past average photos were used by the magazine. This allowed the average modeller to contribute. Now we can't unless we have a Mr Whittiker to shoot for us. I have read the photo guidelines and they are strict. They certainly put me off. It takes more than a smart phone or digi camera to take a modern magazine grade image. The result of this , as I attempted to elucidate is that the magazine is now mostly a product showcase. No problem. Products are good, but so is variety. Do ALL the photos have to be amazing ? Can we not have the odd not so good image of Mr Smith's new work around ? My worry is that we are getting a bit like the car industry where everyone trys so hard to look the same as the competition that all cars look the same. None will dare to look individual in case the lose a sale.
I was talking about content and the possibility that too high a standard might be detrimental to that content in that we readers are perhaps more shut out than we were. Is all progress good ? That sort of thing.
I don't think laying the blame on me for my shopping habits is really to the point. This section is for feedback after all. If anyone is too respond to FEEDBACK then perhaps the editors are the people to do it ?
Enjoying mine as usual. I do often wonder if the photos are too good. What ???! Well I was looking at some old 90's RCM&E s the other day and I noted that there was much more user content - because a black and white home snap was OK in those days. Now the standard is so high that we (readers) are mostly excluded from contributing - which makes the mag more and more a products showcase and less and less a mag about "us" - model flyers. Thus manufactures seem to be leading the trends within the hobby rather than us. I have noticed that in the last months that a radio set that destroyed a model (midget mustang? can't remember) when the RX failed still got the thumbs up, and likewise a 3D model that fell out of the sky for no reason that anyone could find was endorsed too. Hmmmm.
Thing is if we want a magazine it has to be paid for and Manufacture's adds are what does it. Still I do wish the Mag was a bit more down home. I do get bored with reviews of yet another electric ARTF. I'd like more user content even if it was not of the best quality.
Still love it though. F
|Thread: Saito 45 Cutting Out at Full Throttle|
PS Well worth buying a can of carb/brake cleaner from amotor spares shop. Great stuff.
Probably stupid but check that it is fitted with the correct carb.
If it won't run rich enough at full bore then something is blocking the fuel flow.
Best to go back to basics. make sure carb is clean and needle ports are clear. Close BOTH high and low needles taking care not to over tighten. Then fit some clean fuel tube and while pressurising the tube, open the low needle until air JUST starts to flow. OR if you have the instructions the Saito figure. Then open the main to about one and a half or close on two turns open.
See if the engine will run. Adjust the low end to get a good idle. Make sure the plug is NEW and a four stroke plug. Make sure the prop is in the middle of the suggested range.
Then start to go for the high range needle. They do interact with each other. If the engine cuts dead as you advance the throttle, open the low a quarter turn and try again. This will also richen the high end so you will need to re set that each time. IF you can get high revs of course. If not , and you have the right prop, a new plug, the right carb etc, then you probably have a more serious issue going on. Perhaps an air leak somewhere that keeps the mix too lean as the engine starts to rev out . Good luck.
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