Here is a list of all the postings Tony Richardson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: E-Flite Super cub|
Ok after a lot of other maintenance projects were cleared I got back to the Super cub. I thought about the climb under throttle and wondered if the down thrust was adequate, it didn't appear to be so i have added a couple more degrees, hopefully that will help, also the lateral balance was off with the port wing being heavier than the starboard by 1oz not a lot but could make a difference in flight, I failed to check this as when i build from a plan or kit I check for lateral balance before covering so I can add weight and then hide it under the covering, as the sub assemblies are all covered I got a brain block on this part of assembly and totally forgot about it, aileron differential is dialed in a little more than previously, if its too much very easy to dial out at the field. I am hoping this brings the handling of this model into line with a club mates from a former club who had no issues with his right out of the box, it is the exact same model.
Time will tell I plan to fly it this week and will inform you of any improvements or otherwise, fingers crossed.
|Thread: FCC proposes $2.8m fine against Hobbyking for marketing non-compliant drone transmitters|
Simon Chaddock, you must be a golfer, you just scored a hole in one with that statement..
I have to agree with Erfolg on some points, much of the product sold by HK was manufactured by the same company that supplied some of the more higher priced well known brands,. Price is not always an indicator of quality, FrSky produce some good transmitters for a reasonable price - not a HK specific product I know - just an example.
As for the US being protectionist, you have to look at the President and his administrations trade war with china to understand where this is coming from, this to will most likely pass with the passage of time. I hope so as a lot of product from HK usa was good quality and available relatively quickly.
|Thread: E-Flite Super cub|
Hi Paul, yes it is the balsa electric model 68 inch span.
No it is not being used as a trainer I passed that stage long ago, I bought this model because I liked the looks and I have never owned a cub. It just seems so alien to every other model I have - and I have quite a few - I plan on adding some aileron differential to see if that helps, I have also read on other forums that it is heavy for a cub and slow flight is not very good, that I can agree with.
Keep flying and work out the kinks I guess, I just hate being beaten by model.
Hi all, just wondering if anyone on here has an e-flite super cub?
I had the kit/ARF for a long time before I decided to assemble it, Maidened last week, not to bad but some joints that should have been glued better came apart, now duly fixed, the third flight last night was OK but not as I would like them, now I know from numerous club mates cubs are not the easiest to fly, model or fullsize but this is not at all what I expected, it was extremely sensitive to pitch input even at the recommended low rate, duly dialed down also it tends to climb excessively when power applied - it is not tail heavy - according suggested CG? my biggest concern however is its reluctance to bank and turn, turns are initiated with rudder and followed with roll input but it seems slow to respond then has a tendency to roll to far too quick threatening a tip stall.
Has anyone experienced anything similar, advice thoughts welcome.
|Thread: Flaps. Servo speed.|
RC 2, I put the flaps on a switch for take off for the simple reason i did not want down elevator on take off, i guess i could have faffed around with mixes and switches but for my 72 year old gray matter this was the least trying solution and i would rather be flying than messing around with a "confuser" radio......
I have flaps set up on a switch for take off and a slider for landing, the switch can be set at two preset positions for take off with down flap ay normal speed raising the flaps is a little slower allowing me in my advanced years to keep up with the aircraft should it decide to misbehave itself, the slider allows me to lower flaps to the degree I am comfortable with in the prevailing conditions, I also mix in elevator to follow flaps if required - depends on model - both at a slower speed so again easy to keep up with. It's all personal preference I think, as usual many different ways to achieve the same end.
|Thread: Laser Engines development.|
Thank you Jon, I eagerly await the first batch....
Jon as I have previously stated I would be more than willing to test a gas /petrol engine in the 30cc range, I know it may be an issue me being on the west coast of Canada but that is for you to decide.
I have an 80" span Citabria Pro bumbling around on an 18x10 prop driven by a Super Tigre 3000 it is not by any means new and would take very little time to convert to gas, the decision is entirely yours of course but i"m willing and able
HK website I find is a disaster compared to the original, the search engine functions -sort of - but when you find something you are interested in - batteries for instance - and you wish to go back to that item, the back button takes you right back to the first page not the one you wanted more info on, it's become so frustrating I often don't bother but go to another online store - my location requires this - and pay extra for the items, really gone down hill, like a lot of other things it got too big too fast and now can't handle it all....
|Thread: RCV engines|
JD8 I was thinking hard O ring as well, I have two sets of instruction/owners manual with this engine and in one it says the starting setting for the low speed should be set with the throttle fully closed then back out 4 turns the other manual says just the opposite, ie open throttle fully back the low needle all the way out then screw in 3 1/2 to 4 turns, anyone have any idea which one is correct as I found the low speed setting to be really sensitive when it was in the Rascal, totally confused now LOL.
Quick question, anybody on here running a RCV58 CD, I have one and have had it for quite a few years, we moved a couple of years ago and this engine has not been run since then.
I removed it from my Sig Rascal and planned to install it in another model - a low wing sport model - my dilemma is it runs but not very well and yes I did use after run oil and store it correctly, it does not want to idle except at a very high RPM and transition is sluggish.I did partly disassemble and flush/clean the carb and started back with the factory default starting settings and thought I was back to my original settings but something is certainly off somewhere, also compression does not seem as high as I remember it, could I have a stuck or broken ring? thoughts anyone..
Edited By Tony Richardson on 16/05/2020 22:26:34
Edited By Tony Richardson on 16/05/2020 22:28:08
|Thread: Four Engine electric setup|
Glad it worked for you Den, Ray is an old clubmate and I have had a lot of help from him over the years, his builds are amazing.
Den do a google search for "Rays models" Ray McDougal is the guys name, he is a Canadian and has built several multi engine electric models, and i am sure he would answer any questions you have, take a look at his website and checkout his builds, some really good models there a few of them from Ivan Pettigrew plans..
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
Hi Jon, the span is 1854mm 73 inches, and weight is in the range of 6 to 9 kg i make that about 13 to 20lb, that is the estimate on the plan, i'm assuming it depends on the amount of detail undertaken.
HI JON, it's actually the "almost" 1/4 scale kit by Duncan Hutson engine size stated on plan is a 120?? I think you are right a little extra power is always valuable and the left stick should not have to be all the way up to keep the model flying.
Frank, Keith, you will have to have a little patience with me as I am one of the older generation and have lived in Canada a long time so I can only quote the name I see or hear over here, I suspected it might be but was not sure as it is the local paint store of all places that stocks it! We in the colonies will eventually catch on or so i'm told by the visitors we have from the UK sorry used to have, lord knows when things will get back to some kind of normal.
Thank you all, and Jon I may well order a 120 or 155 for that 1/4 scale SE5a, depends if its the next build or not, oh so many kits and plans and so little time.....
Ok further to my previous question, Ethanol is out but where does Methyl Hydrate fall in this equation, it is also readily available here??
Hi Jon, I have been waiting for your 180/30cc gas engine as I have been trying to move to gas engines over glow due to the availabiillity or lack of glow fuel in my location, this however is a question about your glow engines, ethanol is readily available here as is Klotz synthetic oil the problem is nitromethane, now will Laser engines run on fuel with no nitro? and if cleanliness is 100% how do you feel about home mixed fuel, I would be looking at a 120 to 180 size for an almost 1/4 scale SE5a, something that would swing an 18 - 20 prop, not looking for speed more pull and air flow..
This engine would be mounted upright if that makes a difference..
Edited By Tony Richardson on 27/04/2020 23:43:48
|Thread: Can you tell what it is yet ??|
looks like a bugly ugger
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