Here is a list of all the postings Broken Prop has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: vinyl cutters|
for the birthday present!
Another snippet that I heard was that some enterprising soul had managed to cut 1/16th thick balsa wing ribs using a Cameo.
Now, if that is true, it opens up a whole new world of home design and build. If anyone out there knows of such a thing, please post on here. (I am not sure I want to try it on my machine for fear of breaking something).
Sorry Chris, the company is MDP Supplies. As for the other thread on here, search under 'Vinyl Cutting'
There is a previous thread on here Chris which deals with vinyl cutters. Most of us (including me) seem to use the Silhouette Cameo, which comes with good software and will take files in other formats as well.
The cutter works in true 2D, so you can cut complicated shapes easily. Basically if you can draw it, you can cut it!
TruType texts can be imported so that lettering of your choice can be reproduced as well. The smallest that I have managed is about 3mm in height.
As the process involves no heat, covering film can also be cut. Vinyl sheet comes in a single colour but by cutting film you can do chequered sheets etc.
Paint masks are a doddle and I have even heard of people cutting printed tissue for free flight models, although I have not tried that!
The machine was produced for the craft industry and there are lots of videos on You Tube showing enthusiastic ladies cutting lacy trees and the like, (not that I suggest that you do that of course).
Supplies of vinyl in 300mm widths specifically for the Cameo can be obtained from MDA Supplies, although I buy wide sheet and cut it down the middle. It's cheaper that way.
A very useful machine and it is the old story.....the more you use it the more you find that it can do.
edited for bad spelin
Edited By Broken Prop on 19/06/2018 08:28:21
|Thread: Servo extension leads|
I too make my own leads up and I agree with what Tim and BEB say. The problem in this country is that the suppliers of connector components only want to sell them to you in packets of 6 or so.
I buy mine in bulk from Hansen in the USA at very competitive prices. Very helpful people and the goods arrive in a few days. Never had to pay duty yet (fingers crossed). Go to:
|Thread: bullet connectors|
Bill, it is to take away the chance of touching a live male connector on the battery lead to something and causing a short.
It is normal of course to add shrink wrap to the connectors to protect them but on the 4Max website there is a useful variation:
The heat shrink on the male connector is extended about 6mm beyond the end of the connector. Only the part in contact with the connector is shrunk leaving the protruding part free to slip over the female connector (which also has heat shrink on it).
Difficult to explain but there are photos on the website showing how it is done. It is in 'Useful Information', last item.
Edited By Broken Prop on 30/05/2018 20:19:03
|Thread: This forum...|
Well said Percy. A big for our mods.
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis 72” Mosquito – Build Log|
It looks good Geoff. I have not seen the rolled up sticky tape technique before, but it appears to be very effective.
|Thread: Anyone for a Tiffie?|
I suppose that as I made the enquiry that forced BEB to 'come clean' I must confess to my current build situation:
My Tiffie is not even as advanced as Don's, a long way back from the starting gate.
I am working on a Playboy Senior with only the wings to cover but I have got distracted by repairs to a Tomboy. And that ignores the re-covering of an AcroWot, the finishing of a Peter Miller Sky Rover, repairs to a Spook and other sundry distractions.
So, in the full knowledge of my failings, what did I do today? I bought a part finished Sopwith Camel kit!!!
I am the last person to throw stones at anyone.
Pete (who needs to spend more time in the shed).
Three years? At the speed at which I build, that is just a short pause for tea!
Did the Tiffie ever take to the air or did it end up like so many of my builds, part finished in the corner of the shed, just waiting to be completed.
|Thread: BLACK HORSE Renagade|
I had one a while back fitted with an OS 55AX. Lovely flyer and as the others have said, aerobatic but in a fairly gentle way.
Make sure to beef up the undercarriage mountings. Mine parted company after the plane returned to earth a little quicker than I expected.
Edited By Broken Prop on 30/04/2018 17:40:34
|Thread: DH 91 Albatross|
Such an elegant aircraft that just deserves to be modelled. I am looking forward to following your blog Simon.
|Thread: Vauxhall In The Doldrums.....|
I had a Peugeot 205GTi back in the day. Lovely little car with an engine that just begged to be thrashed to within an inch of it's life.
So I did!
|Thread: Avicraft Panic|
The Panic is currently in production (to order) from Avicraft, along with the Moronic and Frantic. The wings are now supplied with ribs and spars in the traditional way, but with the members notched to aid construction. No need for a wing jig!
The Mini series are also being produced to order.
Give Rob Newman a ring on 020 8290 1238.
|Thread: Flyaway model, what would you do?|
Ah yes, buddy leads.
When I was learning I was hooked up on a buddy lead with the instructor. He said that he would take off and get the plane flying nice and level before handing it over to me.
In due course he said, 'OK, you have it'.
Waggling the sticks somewhat tentatively I replied, 'No, I haven't'.
There was a short pause before he said, 'Neither have I' and we stood and watched the perfectly trimmed plane fly steadily out of sight.....
It was last seen heading towards Albania (we were in Corfu). Bet it gave their air defences a fright!
Edited By Broken Prop on 05/04/2018 19:56:16
|Thread: Useless tools|
U Boat spanner.............
An adjustable spanner that used hinged blades (a bit like feeler gauges) to set the gap. Sold as used by the Kriegsmarine in WW2, by a bloke out of a suitcase at the Great Dorchester Steam Fair years ago.
Unbelievably fiddly to set up and the resulting gap was never accurate. I have grown quite attached to this useless piece of kit over time and often get it out to look at it.
Use it? Not on your Nelly!
|Thread: 'Great News' !|
Ronaldo, you have made a lovely job of that build. Fingers crossed for an uneventful maiden flight.
|Thread: Scam or what ?|
Thumbs up for Call Guardian. Mine has got 52 lines blocked so far and the frequency of cold calls has dropped off dramatically. It works for a while and then you get sold on to another list and it all starts again.
Never mind, the Call Guardian is nowhere near full up!
|Thread: Restoring an old Flair Junior 60, Help and Advice needed|
It looks about right to me Mike. The J60 has a very blunt nose, but it can be disguised with a spinner.
The Flair J60 is a good model and should fly well. You will not need a powerful engine and the 20 or 26 should be more than enough. Start with a 11" x 6" prop and about 4 degrees of down thrust on the engine as well as some right thrust. Make sure the CG is correct as the plane definitely has 'homesick angel' tendencies!
You will need some weight up front so the brass propnut and wheels will help. Mount the engine as far out on the bearers as you can as this will help as well. Using a Dubro 4 stroke linkage kit may help with the throttle control rod run.
A closed loop system is easy to install for the rudder, but I don't know about fitting one for the elevators. I used a snake on mine but perhaps others can advise. The kit uses a 'U' shaped piano wire elevator joiner as you have surmised. A quick search on the 'net will give you details of closed loop systems.
Rebuild the tail as light as you can and cover it in litespan. These old timers have too short a nose and need a lot of weight up front to compensate for the tail moment. Remember that 1oz added at the tail end needs 4oz of lead up front to balance the plane!
Hope this helps and good luck with the restoration.
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