Here is a list of all the postings John Lee has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Servo Torque guide - Sport Flying (electric)|
If the servos held in the pro-spin controls they must by definition have been be powerful enough. If they were not the control surfaces would have blown back.
|Thread: Where to get Good RX switches from?|
I never did but the cost at the time was under a fiver & they were often on offer at the shows. I was surprised to see how expensive they have become when I looked them up for the link.
Inwood I used the 'JR/Spektrum switch with DSC/Charge Lead Black& Silver Front', for decades when I flew IC, not cheap now but I've never had a failure, albeit I replaced them every 2/3 years as part of routine maintenance.
|Thread: Finding Models|
The July edition of the Magazine gave the Vifly Finder2 a good write up. It's a stand alone unit which uses a 'very loud beeper' & LED light signals.
|Thread: Birthday discount from HK?...|
From the T&C's:
HobbyKing sells product in USD only. Any foreign currency exchange rates on HobbyKing.com that are not USD are indicative only (you WILL be charged in USD regardless of the warehouse that you purchase from). HobbyKing.com provides the exchange rate tool as a guide only. During the checkout process, HobbyKing.com will pass the price in USD to PayPal whom will do the exact currency exchange for you according to PayPal's currency exchange rates. The customer will then have the opportunity to accept or reject PayPal's currency exchange rate. HobbyKing.com is not liable for the relationship between the customer and PayPal.
I always pay with my Halifax Clarity Credit Card which works out about 3%-5% cheaper than using PayPal.
When you go to checkout there is a box for you to insert it. Best of luck - mine did not work.
|Thread: AND finally.....the 'Mini Jet' TSR2|
Probably as well to stretch the TSR2's wings. The full size was rumoured to have more wheel area than wing area!
Look forward to it.
|Thread: Pushrod Transfer Links|
Takes me back a bit. MK models of Japan used to do ball raced high quality transfer arms, but they were niche products and disappeared when quality small servos that could be placed anywhere in the model became the norm. I've still got this one in my bits draw from an F3A model:
Edited By John Lee on 19/07/2019 16:32:06
|Thread: Shipping Lipos to Australia|
See the CAA restrictions here, in addition there may be airline restrictions. You are limited to 2 batteries not exceeding 160 watt hours so it is not much use for your 'couple of dozen' Lipo.
I can only suggest that you try other shipping companies, perhaps through a comparison site such as shiply.com
|Thread: FMS T28 Trojan v4.|
Thanks for the tip David, I've not had a problem, but this morning I've done as you have suggested with my FMS Hawk.
The T28 just seems to be the perfect layout for fine flying models. I've never flown a bad one, from the micro indoor to giant scale. I presently have the 1.2meter & 2 metre E-flite versions. They go well with a very solid 'sit' in the air and are definite keepers.
|Thread: hobbyking web site|
I ordered 3 x 6s Lipo from the EU warehouse on Friday 12th July which came with free postage. Delivered Wed 17th via Royal Mail ParclePost.
|Thread: Wots Wot Deluxe Kit|
Jonathan I used to use SP113 resin & 24g/sq metre cloth. It's probably over a decade since I last bought any though (not needed now I fly electric) and I can't recall seeing SP113 of late.
I've used Bucks Composites at major model shows for Carbon rods, they have a full range of products & I would go to them if I needed materials in the future. You may want to have a look at them, with the caveat that I've no experience of their resins. Perhaps someone else here can give an endorsement?
Jonathan, yes durability was the reason, but not so much from the flying surface.
When flying IC & using conventional fuel proofers my models eventually suffered from the absorption of fuel & exhaust residues over the years which led to them becoming increasingly tatty & being pensioned off. The only thing that worked for me was to coat the inside with epoxy resin during the build & finish the outside with glass, epoxy & spray paint.
I now fly exclusively electric but the last IC model I still have is a Wot4 built about 1984 & finished in this way. It has had hundreds of flights & last flew a few years ago, but it is still completely sound & I could take it out tomorrow & fly it (it's on its third OS40 FSR but still has the original Futaba 128/148 servos).
I built one back in the 90's. It's a very straightforward build so if that's your preference I say go for it.
I finished mine it in glass cloth & epoxy & it came out a bit heavy. It was powered initially with an Irvine 72 & when that wore out I put in a J'en 90, both 2-strokes. Both were over the top power wise but we had a tendency then to see how big an engine we could stuff in the various Wots. It was as tough as old boots & I eventually sold it after about 10 years hard use only to see it on Ebay a few years later still going strong.
So to answer your questions Jonathan:
1) Yes, as have hundreds if not thousands done so over the years.
2) Yes, should be no problem given your description of your abilities.
3) Follow Chris's guidelines - .45 - 60, 2 stroke or 60-90 4 stroke. If I was to build another I'd keep it lighter than previous and use an OS 55 AX.
4) No gotchas but do use the optional GRP undercarriage & cowl.
|Thread: Flying car|
Hope it did not happen in an airfield flight restriction zone otherwise he’d be in real trouble
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
Here's a nice little 'plane, but I can't help but think the pricing is a trifle optimistic.....
|Thread: Back issue of copy please !|
Maurice I posted a copy of that article in this thread which I am sure you will find of interest.
Sorry but my original magazine stays with me!
|Thread: Soldering Stations|
Lots of good suggestions in this thread, I'm rather tempted by the one Peter Christy bought.
|Thread: National Model Aviation Museum, Muncie, USA|
Nice look at the AMA Museum here.
If you have a look in the online user manuals on the Spectrum Website there is a sketch of the back of the gimbals in the section 'Mechanical Conversion'. There are several DX8 variants but the ones I looked at do not appear to be the same as my DX9.
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