Here is a list of all the postings Dave Bran has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Servo chatter & buzz - HK Raven 990 DLG|
Oh, and your list 3 and your second 4 (!!)
It might be giving them credit they do not deserve but one way of ensuring aileron differential is to use the rotational effect of the arm on linear rod movement, and in that case the arms would not be centred, but offset to give differing up and down movement distances.
Now to Discus Launch gliders (Will he never stop?).
They need good servo resolution, as you need very fine smooth control, a servo that "steps" across its range and exhibits centering and other issues is NO use at ALL and you will not get the best from the plane. (Especially but not exclusively true for small wings like Alula, etc).
I have found that the Ripoff Max (Dymond in USA) range of SD100/SD200 or similar Savox models give the best performance at affordable cost.
Incidentally, I'd not be surprised if all servos now are actually "digital" no matter how labelled/described, its just their quality that varies.
Many years ago I was buying lots of JP micro servos, and one batch had analogue and digital labelling on them inside digital packaging.
When JP investigated from my report back the feedback from China was that they'd gone over to manufacturing digital only and were just using up label stock, so even a servo that was in analogue packaging with analogue label MIGHT be digital!! (And they had told no-one!!!!).
One make I have in the recent past had recommended by a respected seller, bought and had to take out as they were rubbish (two sizes) were Gening, and that had nothing to do with the Rx set up.
Well, you may not be missing something, but we are! You have not explained your set up, radio wise.
While it might be servos it might also be the Rx not pairing its frequency. For example, the FrSky FASST compatibles have a HF mode for high resolution digitals that is entered in a similar manner to binding, and its not at all unusual for people to set them wrongly during bind without realising till the servos keep chattering and then if they don't take the hint, an in flight burn out is quite likely.
There is enough evidence here (especially heating!) that you should NOT proceed in flying it as is!!
|Thread: Changing connectors on my Lipo batteries|
Why do you consider the XT60 unsafe?
|Thread: Christmas Caption Competition!|
Some were SO embarrassed by their choice of Radio that they did not allow their picture to identify them.
|Thread: Which model flight simulators work on windows 10.|
Brief history lesson, bear with me! The original team that produced Px up to v3.5 were great. Once HH got their hands on the prog and another programming house were mucking around with v5 making lots of basic mistakes, not so much.
One point that their people do not seem to "get", is that the numbers now don't properly relate to the effect, particularly true of weather. Weather in the wind sense for slope soaring is still largely broken. It was OK in v3, not now! You can get around it, but don't expect the figures to relate to real world.
On Flying field, you can have the situation with std weather and models that they are blown around on ground with a setting of 10mph - patently ridiculous! However, ignore the "mph", treat it as a sliding scale number, and you'll find a decent enough reaction easy to get.
With regard comments on being too easy, another poor effect is weight. If you treat the settings as "just a number" then they have the right range effect, just not necc at the stated "right" number. I have many aircraft tuned to well above the "apparent" weight and they then handle correctly to expectation (or reality in the case of models I have).
Also bear in mind you can easily make an electric model ic and the reverse, set which noise you want, set idle on zero throttle, etc, etc.
Some models were left std too susceptible to things like ground effect, etc.
I can also point to where there are LOADS of non -standard planes once you have the std set under proper control.
You still need to look around more, as there IS a Gee Bee as standard install, if you have "Class" set for the model list order its under "Scale" listed as "Gee Bee Z".
The std is Yellow but I have produced Deep Orange, Lime Green, and Purple so flying buddies and I can "race" a colour each.
Yes, and there are so many adjustments possible that with no knowledge of where you are now its largely pointless to advise, so get all the models working first, then take a note of what you have on a favourite, so you could return, and experiment. Set some wind, set the vulnerability if that's your bag, and try till it does what YOU want.
NO, its not correct, Please choose each of the model classes, which are not picked by clicking on the name, but by the small triangle before each class name.
|Thread: What to do?|
It happened to me or at least right by me, when a flying buddy plugged in. He hung desperately onto the plane, I turned the Tx on that he'd just thought he'd turned on but had turned off! (And yes, no fail safe set!)
On another occasion a plane on a nearby table powered up, Futaba wrong model, just bad luck it powered up on a glider model memory with throttle not reversed............. it went between cars in the pits and tangled itself to a standstill without any lasting damage.
Our club (now!) has a rule that EP models have to be restrained in the pits, though flying wings and the like are not obviously able to be loop or rod in ground held.
|Thread: Blade 130S|
Looking for something else I came across this from March, and am embarrassed to realise I did not feed back here, though I did elsewhere.
In Precis, the loss of stabilisation particularly in left turns was with a couple of others similarly affected worldwide with enough nouse to investigate thoroughly found to occur with high C rated packs, Yes, odd but read on!
The std pack HH/Blade state (but do NOT provide) is relatively low C and only 300mAh 3S. The issue is that the Heli is inherently desperately tail heavy!
Also, many people (like me) would already have a 180CFX with lots of higher C rated 450mAh 3S. You cannot roll over the old 130X packs as they are only 2S.
The giveaway clue to the issue was that the Heli has a ferrite core on the battery lead, extremely unusual in a micro Heli. Ergo, they seem (possibly) to have had feedback interference issues in development and patched it with the core. However, fitting a higher C rated pack and unleashing more current was enough to cause issues .
A 450mAh 65C 3S pack created the issue. A 370mAh 25-40C 3S was completely trouble free. This was duplicated across the world with others, going back and fore till it was beyond doubt. Not using above that pack type, the Heli has been trouble free ever since.
For the record, I have had one other issue, the canopy was not trimmed wide enough at the top and so while the collective servo rod would slide past with clearance, the stepped out plastic end could depending on the canopy rest position catch in the down direction from near fully up, loading up and potentially damaging the linear servo. Easy enough cured, trim the canopy wider with curved nail scissors.
I have used HobbyWING (sic) UBECs for many years and never had the slightest issue with any, large or small current type.
Yes, when you wriggle the controls, its always best to take note of the direction, not just if they move!
If a fellow club member asks for engine starting/running help, and you spend half an hour of your flying time getting it going REALLY well, only to see him seconds later fiddle for NO reason and ruin it again, never EVER help him again, no matter how much he damn well pleads.
If a fellow club member asks you to test fly his new plane, make VERY sure he has actually:-
1. Fitted the wing securely (an 8mm by 1mm edge butt CA joint on a 70" span plane is NOT strangely sufficient)
2. Used control rods that are supported and stiff enough that they might actually stop the surfaces moving about in the breeze.
3. Fitted wing bands that keep the wing from lifting and do not move straight into the aileron slot, jamming same.
4, If a drone pilot says he has CAA certification, be absolutely convinced he'll have NO idea of the rules and regulations, will happily turn his FPV gear on with no prior check, wiping out your video feed, won't know what frequency he is on, will refuse to change "as its difficult to reach", and won't think it at all unacceptable to fly through the pits at eye level from and back to his car. And that is flying back after spending five minutes with it on the ground fiddling in the middle of the runway blocking everyone, only then to hover runway central at two metres up for the complete (yawn) battery.
If having a "last flight" is risky (and strangely many think so), announce loudly that you are going to have two more flights, and stop after the first.
Trees do NOT move, learn to avoid them.
If you arrive and everyone is flying left hand circuit rule, do NOT fly in opposition, especially unannounced and after a pilot up has called "Landing"
If you find a queue of pilots waiting for the strip as you attempt your tenth or more over fast and over height approach to land, consider re-taking your "A" cert because you clearly don't deserve to have the one you've got.
Edited By Dave Bran on 18/12/2017 16:03:19
|Thread: Drones being used for nefarious deeds.|
I'm going to Tweet Mr Trump and suggest he starts a "stop recycled to death old stale news" campaign, as that is what SO many closed forum etc threads on drone banning/regulation/etc are now.
Of particular note though is the regular likening of UAVs to cars not being banned/regulated to death, so why leisure UAVs? REALLY??
Society clearly feels it requires cars/transport vehicles, but leisure model aircraft are NOT an item that is required for society to operate, no matter how much we love our sport. End of..................................Move on, nothing to be able to influence here.
|Thread: Es Foguero Palace Freestyle|
I think he means what I feel about it, it has too many sharp change and ultra brief edits. Some of it is very good, some for me hardly watchable, it doesn't flow for the viewer.
Good Spot though, jealous!!
|Thread: why we don't fly drones over crowds|
How To Spend It Well at Christmas with Phillip Schofield. its on the ITV hub if you can be bothered to sit through the lengthy adverts.
I was in Lincoln on Saturday, one day of the Lindum Christmas Fayre , an event heavily over-populated with visitors, so we exited fast and went up onto the castle walls walkway. A camera quad was being hovered seemingly from a nearby tiny triangle of public land grass presumably filming the event. NOT over the crowd, but fairly close.
It descended while we watched to out of sight and arose again at a timing which suggested a cell pack change.
Viewing the Castle/Cathedral location from the town several hours later, and now full dark, it was still there with red and green marker lights on.
I assume the Police, in any event somebody with a LOT of packs!!!
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