Here is a list of all the postings Capt Kremen has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Durafly Fiesler Fi156 Storch|
Found the instruction manual.
(PM me and I can send you a copy).
From the instructions:
The C of G is stated at 50mm (2 inch) from the leading edge.
Control Throws: Rudder 17mm / Elevator 14mm / Aileron 11mm - All Each Way
Hi Robin, I have an unflown example too. [After acquiring it, I sadly reckon and doubt it's flight characteristics will be anything like the full-size ;-( ] Will see if I can find the instruction manual and see what that says re C of G.
|Thread: Europa by Ken Sheppard|
Anyone on the forum build the Sept 1997 'Radio Control Scale Aircraft' free 50" span, scale light aircraft plan of a 'Europa' by Ken Sheppard?
If so, how was it?, Fly well?, What power/motor used?, Electric anyone?
Reason a good flying club friend of mine used to own a full-size and is tempted to build an electric powered version, slightly larger, circa 64" span which is approx 1/5th scale. (Not aware of any other plans of this plane).
In the original magazine article, Ken Sheppard suggests he would write a follow up article regarding fitting a, (current for the era), 'SPEED600' geared brushed electric, running on 7 cell (NiCad/NiMH?) pack. Did Ken ever do this and/or a motor glider conversion following a prang at Old Warden, necessitating a nose rebuild?
Any other thoughts or comments on the potential success or otherwise of this scale subject build welcome. Many thanks.
|Thread: Does anyone remember...|
Bud Morgan - Castle Arcade Cardiff
Bud, who had only one arm, would lovingly and perfectly pack your precious pocket money kit in a sheet of pristine brown paper. Together in the shop, his extremely polite assistant Chris(?) Williams supplied every manner of model goody.
Down the road (a stretch!), in Swansea, there was a good model shop in one of their arcades too.
|Thread: Adding Span To A Low Aspect Wing|
Yes, it is a constant chord, no sweep.
The potential effect(s) you suggest are just what I seek, i.e. a little slower landing, a little 'tamer' overall.
One for the aerodynamicists among us ...
I have a low aspect ratio sport model, flies well but I fancy trying a lower wing loading. Current Main Wing Span is 50 inches with a Chord of 11 inches. It has a 20 inch Span Conventional Tailplane, with an average chord of 6 inches.
What if ... I add say another 3 rib bays to each tip, making the new main wing span approx 70 inches? (The wing is a constant chord, tailplane a small taper).
Reading full-size accounts suggest keeping tailplanes as small as possible due drag however they (e.g. airliners), have very smart electronics to keep things sweet trim wise.
Without such aid, what, (if any other), changes might be made or just go ahead, increase the span and keep the tailplane as is? Adjust the C of G?
|Thread: WANTED Dremel 3 inch / 76mm Jigsaw Blades Part # 8029|
Workshopheaven indeed do stock them ... A cutting I shall go ... a cutting I shall go ... ee ... eye ... adioe etc. etc.
Just broken my last blade ... Argh!!!
Anyone with a spare one or two or know where I can obtain these discontinued blades? Thanks
|Thread: Servo Advice|
The problem with picking a servo, (or any piece of model equipment, radio, motor, esc etc.), from a lesser known brand is often future continuity. The likes of Futaba and HiTec will probably still be around. (Though nothing is certain these days alas!). Say you choose a Hitec 422 servo this year and you don't need another set of servo until next or perhaps a replacement gear set, the HiTec 422 will likely still be available. The only caveat may be changes in specification / materials and or variations between batches.
Like most model goods, there are probably only a few actual manufacturers but a lot of badges applied to the same product!
|Thread: Electric or not?|
After years of using the readily available APC 'E' props, I re-discovered Aeronaut fixed props. (I had previously often used their folding props on E-gliders). Whilst such measurements as can be made with a watt meter and tacho, give a guide, I find actual performance in flight use more meaningful. Re-propping several different models from APC E prop to Aeronaut 'Black' of the same size and pitch has been interesting. My findings, born out by club mates comments, they are quieter. Throttle settings for like-for-like performance are slightly less giving a little extra flight duration. They balance very well, even the hubs are not far out which often seems an issue with APC E prop.
|Thread: Buddy Box And Flying Site Procedures In Current Situation|
Preface - I am aware this will vary according to which part of the UK folk reside and fly in.
Based in Southern England, our club flying site, operating in the countryside, some distance from any dwellings has now re-opened for flying.
We are taking the recommended precautions of social distancing, parking cars further apart, use of sprays, gels, gloves and not handling other persons property.
So, how is your clubs and instructors dealing with trainees i.e, complete novices/new comers and all those still requiring to use a buddy box?
The majority of our club members, and seemingly similar in many if not most clubs, are 60+ years of age and very many 70+, therefore in the considered higher risk category. Unless I've missed it, BMFA have offered little if any guidance on recommended flying site practices and procedures.
Do you put a, hopefully, temporary halt to all training? Train using only 'wireless' buddy box connections or longer conventional wire leads, all to keep 2 metres person to person distance?
Any changes to numbers on the flight line at any one time? (We've said only 2 max, but in practice only 1 is ever in the air at any one time).
With collective best practice, let's hope we can keep flying safely whilst attending our flying sites.
|Thread: How long have you been waitng for an order from HK Global?|
7 days - 2 of which were in this country according to tracking.
|Thread: ATS Kite?|
ATS/Flair 'Kite' CofG 105mm from Leading Edge
|Thread: Oleo's on larger models|
Interested in this post for two reasons. My current project has a nose oleo only (VQ Tri-Pacer) wondered if it was worth it and would it stand up to 'everyday' use. Also, wheels. I put a post up a week or two back asking folks experiences with different types of wheel e.g. brands, hard/soft, foam/plastic/rubber etc. lots of reads but surprisingly little feedback or comment.
|Thread: June 2020 RCM&E|
There's always a digital version if you can't wait
Thanks for your valued input chaps.
I am not dismissing flaps, on my gliders they are essential, just never been bowled over with the effort/benefit effect on a sports model.
In prep are the VQ 'Piper TriPacer PA-22' and a Seagull 'Chipmunk'. Both I imagine could live quite happily performing flapless landings. Still, they are scale, the fullsize use 'em and why have that extra toggle/lever/slider on the trannie if you don't bother with it
Apart from a few gliders, most of my models do not employ flaps. In general 'sports' flying I have not noticed appreciable difference, save trim change, to warrant the extra servo, associated linkages and requirement of another channel on the receiver.
However, I have a couple of scale models in preparation, full-size versions of which employ flaps. To get some practice in before these fly, I've just finished a 'sport' model to get familiar with toggling 'Flaps 1', and 'Flaps 2' on the Tx. Notionally 15 degree (take-off) and 30 degree down (short finals, to land).
How do regular flap aficionado set-up their angle of dangle? i.e. From what datum do you measure the flap deployment angle? chord datum? airfoil trailing edge? Do you convert degrees required into mm deflection to measure as per other control surfaces? I made up a card template with the angles on which looks about right but wonder is there a better/correct way. What regular 'flappers' use? Thanks.
Full size aviation uses crimped connector/wire joints, even model servo leads do. Solder weld joints being frowned upon for their susceptibility to failure either through fracture or 'dry joint' during construction.
Given the ever increasing growth of electric flight with associated battery, motor and esc joints to plugs, connectors and their wires, why not more (quality) crimping in the model world?
OK, so down the years I've had just about every brand, make, type of wheel on a variety of models. Some have worn/weathered better than others e.g. Trexler inflatable type on vintage. What wheels/tyres/tires do folk find best? I'm thinking which absorb the landing (arrivals!) better than others? I have in my collection foam wheels both hard (as rock) and soft. Plastic(?) hard and soft. Hubs - wood, plastic, brittle plastic (how do I know!), nylon and so on.
Brands include DuBro, Trexler, Kavan, MicroMold, Perkins (Foam), Aeronaut, Keil Kraft, Great Planes, Misc. out of ARTF kits. With and without tread patterns. So called 'low-bounce' and so on.
What do folk use, on which type/weight of model? Does it matter for 'sport' flying? interested to know.
|Thread: Lockdown Models|
My 'Lockdown Model' - Phoenix Model Products (PMP) sport scale 'D H Chipmunk'.
Superb kit as always from Stan Yeo. I added a few bits (L.E. stall strips, Landing Light, Wheel fairings, Specific Vinyl Decals). Model depicts a 9 AEF aircraft based at RAF Church Fenton circa 1977. Came in at design weight 1.5Kg, with 3S LiPo.
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