Here is a list of all the postings Capt Kremen has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Model Noise Level - Interesting Findings|
I was so surprised too, (hence the post in the first place).
Yes, usually, (with one or two notable exceptions), all the 'electrics' at our site record low(er) readings.
As a would-be-musician, I am also acutely aware of perceived loudness v actual measured. A sound can be annoying/irritating to the ear and yet be within technical limits. (You fill in your own 'annoying' sound, I'm not going down that route!) I didn't perceive the 'WOT' as sounding any worse than others and certainly not as loud as many if not most glow i/c that have passed the <82db standard.
I'm eager, out of curiosity as much as anything else, to investigate further with this and a(nother) electric model set-up for a comparison i.e. spinner on/off. The 'liquid sunshine' promised for most of this week will probably mean no immediate trip to the flying site. Will keep you posted when I do glean some results.
i/c motor ... no thanks, gave those 'orrors up 35 years ago!!!
Will carry out the 'sound / db level' checks when I next having access to the sound meter at our flying site.
All the components, (motor, prop mount), were new and had not been subject to any bending out of true due a prop strike on landing. (Remember, our club requires all models are checked before they are permitted to fly).
I don't have access to any technical equipment to check for dynamic balance i.e. like those fancy machines in garage tyre shops. I'll fit and refit the prop/spinner in different positions on the prop shaft, take readings to note possible variations. Also, try a similar, (but same size), spinner as well as same with different 'balanced' props.
Fortunately, the model is under the 82db recommended sound level limit without the spinner, which it does not require as a scale model might. In any case, I found full throttle is not necessary to fly the plane more than adequately.
And ... I recommend the model as one of the smoothest trainers I've had the pleasure to fly. Glide performance is exceptional with Mr Foss's pedigree for quality designs.
Interesting thoughts Martin.
Will do a check of RPM outside, once the 'liquid sunshine' here stops.
As an aside, our sound meter has been calibrated. Even if it were giving erroneous readings, it's likely all our noise checks would be to consistent inaccuracy! Several different models, (i/c & electric), were noise checked yesterday.
We were also thinking that scale models, which demand a spinner to look right, e.g. Spitfire, Mossie, might be quieter if this 'no-spinner' finding were proved consistent.
As stated in the original post the prop was balanced. Spinner subsequently checked for balance (TopFlite Magnetic balancer), no discernible imbalance found.
'Cavitation'(?) yes I appreciate it is associated with boats etc. but 'we' were struggling to think of a term that would account for the prop cut-out slot 'catching/grabbing' the air as the spinner rotated. The 'milk-bottle' effect, i.e. blow across a bottle top and it makes a sound!
Once in the air, (without the spinner!), fellow fliers said how quiet the model was!
Whilst enjoying the respite in wind and liquid sunshine yesterday to get some stick time in, I had a noise check carried out on a new model.
(Our club requires all models to be checked in accord with BMFA guidelines prior to flight, their db level, prop size recorded and if passed (<82db @7m), a numbered sticker issued to attach to the model).
So, a Chris Foss 'WOT Trainer', 4S LiPo, Quantum40II Brushless Mtr, Balanced 12x8APC prop WITH an unmodified Irvine Alloy back-plated spinner = 81db at full throttle, WITHOUT the spinner, (all other items remaining the same), = 77db.
Suggestions for the substantial difference - 'cavitation'(?) as a result of the spinner prop cut-out slots, imbalance in the spinner(?) itself, what do you chaps think?
Makes interesting talking point if nothing else i.e. that merely removing a quality(?) spinner reduces the 'db' noise levels. Might make all the difference if you are struggling with meeting the recommended BMFA noise guideline level with your motor/model/prop combination.
|Thread: Making an electric glider's propeller fold more positively|
I sympathise with your plight 'Filmbuff'.
Down the years I've tried various permutations. 'Aeronaut' & similar quality 'folding prop' hubs, bolts & spinner are usually pretty reliable for folding.
If the hub bolt is too free, the prop blade sometimes flops down during slower phases of flight. You say you would prefer not to go down the rubber band route, which is a rough 'n ready fix that generally works. You could try another hub/pivot bolt assembly but the quality ones are usually not cheap. Try 'Gliders' in the UK for their stock or 'Hollein Modelbau' & 'Lindinger Modelbau' in Germany. The latter two give superb service and are very often cheaper than UK even after p&p has been factored in.
|Thread: XACTO Blade Handle|
The only eBay XACTO ones I can find are located in the States!
Just looked/searched TJD Models site, showing handles as 'Out-Of-Stock', but will ring Tuesday to enquire.
Yep, the blades are good, (have plenty of those in my tool-chest), just need a working #2 size handle that will hold them and the DuBro hinge cutting blades.
Trying, (in vain!), to find a UK supplier of XACTO products.
I'm looking for a new '#2' size Handle, (the chuck became too loose on my old one).
Have XACTO stopped shipping to the UK as uneconomic with so many cheap far eastern copies of seemingly everything circulating?
If no XACTO, would welcome alternate suggestions for a 'collet' style handle.
The 'DuBro' hinge kit I have #2 size blades for are quite wide approx. 9mm at the shank end.
Thanks for any assistance.
|Thread: In The Newsagents ...|
Mmm ... yes ... but I did say our magazineS ... plural i.e. 'Aeroplane Monthly', 'Aviation', 'Popular Flying', 'Aeromodeller', 'Scale Models', 'Flight' etc. etc. etc.
Most, if not all magazines cost circa £4-£5 these days, as a pensioner can't afford subs to all those and may only need to glance the odd news item anyway.
As like most that frequent this forum, I'm a 'mature cheddar', somewhat less nimble and thus able to contort the body as once when a gymnastic youth.
So is it just me but why is 'our' magazine almost always tucked away, on the floor level, buried under shelves, often hidden behind copious railway magazines. (By the way, I have nothing against railway fans). This is especially true of the well known high street newsagent and general 'cluttered' layout shop, I'm sure your town/city has a branch. On Saturday, I was literally on hands and knees hunting down the aviation magazines, I eventually found them but my back didn't appreciate the search! Do they want to sell (our) magazines???
|Thread: Needle Nose Circlip Pliers|
Fortunately, one of those seldom (for me) jobs has arisen ...
A brushless motor requires a new set of bearings.
Yes, I have done this in the past but thought I'd try and get 'proper' tools to do it (better) this time.
The mini/micro circlip at the shaft end of the motor, what circlip pliers do folk recommend? (I have a set of Rolson circlip pliers with an assortment of 'jaws', all of which are far too big to fit inside the motor circlip!) Looking online, typing in 'needle-nose' or similar doesn't show up any finer gauge pliers than the Rolson I have.
So, engineering experts among us, what should I look for or else a specific recommendation? As it's not a frequent task and the pliers get much use, 'professional' quality & associated (high) cost is not really justifiable.
.... Add a mini 'Arbor Press' to the shopping list and I'm wondering whether to just buy a new motor! (Though I'm trying to be a good boy and fix an item rather than further add to the 'throw-away society' etc. etc.)
|Thread: VQ Models|
I have the VQ 'Piper TriPacer'.
Concur with others, the covering can be the Achilles Heal of these models, it being printed. Though they do provide small sheets of 'spare' covering for 'patching'. Also, as others have said, the fittings such as clevis, spinners, wheels are at best average, at worst poor quality. Some parts need fettling to fit or complete replacement. The 'TriPacer' makes a nice model, (eventually!), and flies well for a scale type. (There's a particularly good French(?) video on the Tube showing the model in action). The instruction manual leaves much to be fathomed out for yourself too. They are OK if you've built a model or three, want a fairly quick fix/build, and are prepared to 'work' on the poor areas!
|Thread: Battlife Guard|
Anyone using the 'Battlife Guard' units advertised by PowerBox Systems (P39 latest RCM&E)?
I'm a bit puzzled why you would want these. Assuming you have a quality LiPo charger with discharge & storage facility settings, what do these units do that a decent charger unit cannot????
They require an addition 'adaptor' too, so they are not cheap, assuming you have a few LiPo packs to put into 'store/discharge'. They are for 2S & 3S only.
|Thread: New EDF Mini Jets- Jet Provost & Folland Gnat|
Dare I ask - a twin using these units - Meteor, Canberra, Me262, Ar234 .... am I dreaming....
|Thread: CAA registration consulation|
Having completed the CAA consultation document feedback, I observe they are focused solely on how the scheme will operate, charges and covering their costs. They have no regard (or interest) to matters of flight safety and our opinions on how to improve it.
I have no problem with having, for example my BMFA membership number being applied to any of my models should it/my actions result in the model aircraft infringing Gatwick R/W26 and the authorities need to trace me.
Quite a few of our community do not have familiarity or use of IT so how do they conducts their tests?
Echoing many previous comments, the proposals do absolutely nothing to further flight safety of persons, property or aircraft on the ground or in the air. The CAA has very limited resources to enforce existing aviation legislation as is. However, putting this piece of an ever expanding legal jigsaw in place, assists ensuring conviction if anyone is caught and likely invalidate our model insurance if they are not registered.
Oh and I expect to see a grinning, self satisfied Minister/MP (All Parties), stood in front of a TV reporter crowing how stringent measures have now been introduced to curb the menace of rogue 'drone' operations stopping your holiday flight.
Enjoy your flying folks!
|Thread: Any idea what these kits are worth?|
Not meaning to be flippant, but kits old/new/un-built/built, are worth what folk are willing to pay for them.
'We' in general, are a shrinking community so the likely market is shrinking too!
Old kits, nostalgic as they may be from the 'good-old-days', might not be of a comparable quality to many of today's laser cut, 3D Printed, carbon fibre and other exotic materials constructed models can be.
As another thread has recently noted re 'Disposing of models', even club sales raise relatively small amounts for quality un run motors, kits and mint Radio gear.
|Thread: Holding screws in|
Where the screw hole already exists and the screw is loose, take a small piece of 'soft wood' e.g. match stick. Break off enough to insert as filler in the hole, using a spot of glue to stop it coming out. Re-insert the screw. The screw will then cut a new tighter thread fit. (This is a common remedy for musical instrument loose screw strap buttons which are subject to constant wear and tear).
|Thread: Eflite 60amp esc|
Can you operate / test the ESC using a WattMeter (i.e. LiPo-ESC-Motor with No Prop)?
I have occasionally found the 'range' available on these meters allows otherwise recalcitrant ESC to operate!
|Thread: Century Evolution 180|
A (8 year old) 'Century Evolution 180 SE' electric heli has been passed around various club members and is now in my hands for 'evaluation' = (sorting-out!).
It is in perfect, undamaged condition as far as I can see. (From a deceased flier who, alas, had never got around to fly it by the looks of things).
Searching the web I note it is a 'badged' Walkera product. It comes with a dedicated 2.4 Tx (Walkera WK-2403). First off, the manual is poor and written in Chingleese. The (conventional) bind process as described in the manual i.e. Tx on then connect Rx battery, does not work. However, the unusual procedure of connect Rx LiPo first then switch on, whilst simultaneously HOLDING a right stick full left or right input, sets the bind process in process and after a few seconds a successful bind IS achieved. I puzzled over this and thought, are you sure that's correct?!? But now numerous binds later, it is!
I've achieved 1 - 2 min flights in the confines of the garden with the occasional very light breeze. With a fully charged LiPo, initial hops are fair to OK though control response is marginal particularly in pitch(elevator), it being reluctant to fly forward with full right stick 'down' input. (Mode 2 Throttle / Rudder Left set-up).
OK I am a novice heli pilot and I dare say this is an old/less accurate model compared with current more sophisticated types. Are there any heli pilots who have owned/flown this model? Can shed some light on potential trimming improvements? Pilots notes? The Tx seems restricted in that servo travel is either 100% or 50% and no sub trim to increase throws either.
Thanks for any assistance.
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