Here is a list of all the postings Capt Kremen has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Light Relief|
For anyone wishing a little light relief radio listening and a break from the current sadness reported in the news, may I recommend internet radio.
As most of our community here are of a mature age, you will likely have grown up with the likes of: 'Dads Army', 'I'm Sorry I Haven't A Clue', 'Navy Lark', 'Likely Lads', 'Les Dawson', 'Our Brave Boys' , 'Just A Minute' etc. etc. ALL these and many, many more are available to stream 24/7, on several UK Internet Stations:
'Abacus Comedy Radio' , 'British Comedy Radio', 'Pumpkin FM Comedy Radio'
Keep Safe, Keep Well, Keep Smiling Folks
|Thread: Servo Arm Numbers|
Just taken delivery of some new servos from that wonderful shop with superb service in Frodsham.
I have successfully used these little marvels of electronic and mechanical engineering since the 70s, making best efforts to employ the correct linkage geometry for the task i.e. servo arm and control horn positions.
One thing which I cannot find definitive reference to, (even on the manufacturers web sites), are the numbers on the servo arms and their meaning. 1 to 4 on the 'cross' arm types and numbers such as '18', '15' and '12' on the HiTec example I'm studying now. Is there a source of information? (Strangely they don't include it in the servo packaging). Are the numbers off-set degrees from 90 and torque for the respective servo arm hole?
Obviously from my use down the years, not knowing this info hasn't prevented use but it would be 'nice-to-know'.
|Thread: Great Giveaways|
And remember this one too?
RCM&E 'Rib Tickler Gauge
Remember this 'RM' cover give-away 'Building Buddy' from a few years (and some!) ago?
I've found it useful to check the odd item at a show or just own stock whilst doing a build.
Wonder if it's economic for magazines to do such these days(?)
|Thread: Plan printing without taping lots of sheets|
Why not simply Download the 'Outerzone/Aerofred' etc. plan onto a PC stick.
Take it to your local 'Prontoprint' shop, (other print shops are available!), and for usually a very modest fee, they will print the plan in original or any size you wish. As many copies as you like and no joins as it's all on one clean sheet.
|Thread: TN Hunter EDF|
Martin unless my experience in the Royal Air Force was an illusion, Hunters fairly regularly went supersonic, at least the ones stationed at RAF Brawdy did circa 1974. True they had to climb then go into a fairly steep dive to achieve it. Perhaps any former 'Hunter' jockeys amongst us will comment and confirm(?) Post Script: Online descriptions detail that the Rolls Royce Sapphire with afterburner enabled the Hunter to achieve Mach 1.67 in level flight.
Edited By Capt Kremen on 25/01/2020 14:45:35
|Thread: Need AA cells - best source for non-fake Eneloops?|
Although often at a 'Premium Price', would one of the major supermarkets be a source of Eneloop/Panasonic/GP type cells? Their reputation(s) would be on the line if they were caught knowingly selling dud/fake products.
|Thread: London Model Engineering Exhibition Alexandra Palace|
Just back from Ali Pally.
Mmm ... 'A' for effort to all the modellers and their various works of art/modelling but the show pales in comparison with German model shows. Size, organisation, variety, stands.
Still Andy Symonds was doing sterling work on the BMFA stand accompanied by Martin Dilly. Also the R/C simulator was doing good trade albeit with grey and shiny headed folk, no youngsters alas.
As stated, very little for aeromodellers there. LMA displayed a few of their members large models and the BMFA stand was adorned with various models from all disciplines i.e. Free flight and R/C.
Average age of attendees, conservatively 60+.
A couple of pics:
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot - Upgrades|
Adding to Ian Rs comment about stiff control run wire pushrod.
I 'polished' mine with Duraglit metal polish.
During radio servo installations on all my models, I use an amp meter inline with the servo and measure the operational, (albeit static) current drawn. Amazing the results before and after treating or even replacing supplied ARTF control runs! Also replace those rather 'delicate' cheap plastic kit clevis with quality ball clevis. No back lash or lost movement in the linkages then. Why have a good radio Tx and servos, (not the kit ones obviously!), and loose precision control input movements(?)
Fair enough, and I don't blame you given the 'qualities' (sic) you have experienced of the 'Riot'!
I have a family of Chris Foss designs (all-electric powered) - 'WOT4', 'WOT4 PRO', 'Acrowot', 'UNO-Wot', and 'WOT Trainer'. Surprised as I am to admit, but I get as much 'fun' out of my 'Riot' as the 'Wotties' ('WOT Trainer' excepted which is fabulous all-rounder IMHO). The 'WOT' range of ARTFs (foam or wood/ply), I found had as many deficiencies and shortcomings, poor materials, fittings etc. and thought typical par for the course for ANY ARTFs, i/c or electric.
Here are some pics of my 'mod' to allow larger capacity 3S (and 4S at a push) LiPo into the 'Riot'. Also the 'velcro' style wrap over strap securely holds that awful brittle plastic battery hatch closed. The strap passes through slots on the top side of the fuselage such that the ply inner frame, (trimmed down to let the LiPo in!), stops the strap see-saw cutting its way through the foam fuselage sides.
Just servicing my very much tinkered with 'Riot' before another seasons flying. (Now eight (8) years old according to my flight log book!)
My previous posts and review have detailed the numerous changes and substitutions of equipment I made to this airframe.
As this topic is about upgrades and motor/battery performance here are my notes:
Currently using a, (now discontinued), 4-Max PPO-3530-1100Kv motor on 3S and a 10x5 prop. The model is far from 'supersonic' but it can easily perform all sport manoeuvres i.e. Loops, Bunts, Rolls, Spins, Stall Turn and combinations of these. I did try a 4S pack with a(nother) motor but personally found the extra omph wasn't warranted and if anything wasteful as the airframe reached its VNE i.e. max speed and unlikely to go faster before flutter and self-destruct took hold!
The comment from 'MaxThrust' about the change of prop ... Mmmm well they may say that, but any supplier with a job lot of props as 12x6 were perhaps not available, (or any substitute items), would likely do that!
Meanwhile, my 'Riot' has had its 'Major' and is serviceable for another seasons 'hack' flying in all winds 'n weather, for training, fun sport aeroes, touch 'n go, refresher training, an all-rounder providing IMHO, parts are changed and modified.
|Thread: Renovation Of An Old Friend|
Oh yes, just taken the 'renovation pics' in the back garden. Copious 'fresh', non-perished bands, will be used come the first flight.
It's a lightweight now, I expect it will easily putter around on less than half throttle or less!
With seasonal weather i.e. torrential rain and strong winds plus only odd '5-mins' snatched between mince pies and entertaining relatives, what to do modelling wise?
Probably like many of the folk on this forum, I have a fair share of airframes that like last years Christmas toys, now reside forlorn in the get-round-to-it-n-fix-it/mothballed corner of the storage hangar.
I pulled out a 30 year old electric - 'Todays Hobbies SkyVolt'. This had last seen the light of day when Astro05 Cobalts ruled the roost and SANYO 'Reds' or 'Yellows' were the electrons of choice!
Fortunately, as is the case with most electrics not subject to 'goo-fuel' residues, the airframe and Solarfilm Fibafilm covering, were in reasonably good condition.
The 'odd '5-minutes' were therefore sufficient to run the film iron over the odd slack panel and generally patch areas in need of care and maintenance.
A modern brushless AXI motor fitted with appropriate ESC and new HiTec servo inserted into long vacant locations. The New Year weather is looking promising ... hope so.
Anyone else renovating and renewing old model acquaintances?
|Thread: Building an electric Super Scorpion|
In my electric 'Super Scorpion', (and other short nose vintage types too), I insert the LiPo vertically, usually parallel next to 'F1' bulkhead. In many cases this negates the need for 'church roofing' material to achieve an R/C C of G. (I appreciate Free Flight i.e. as the original types usually were, often had very rear locations).
|Thread: What make is this|
You have my sympathy Erfolg having recently been in a not dissimilar position with a downstairs/cloakroom WC.
Is this 2019-20 or 1819-20 I ask myself? We have 3 WC (Bathroom, ensuite and the cloakroom), no two feature the same mechanisms inside, even though they are all modern(?) 'push-button' low level types. When they require maintenance, go to the plumbers merchants ' Nah mate, haven't done those for years you need ...' .... Argh!!!!
As you have already discovered, even a trace of a calcium deposit, seems to upset these delicate mechanisms.
Why is it so difficult to design a simple WC innards that features common, readily available components to service as required? Instead it seems throw away and fit a new (now different), unit everytime.
I eventually fixed our WC after draining and scrupulously cleaning the inside of the loft water tank. (We live an a hard water area unfortunately). Removed the 'left and right-hand' parts and renewed, plus running numerous flush load through the system to purge of any remaining impurities/calcium particles.
Fingers crossed all is well until the next failure. Which unit will that be I wonder, no doubt now obsolete!!!
|Thread: Torque rods vs wing servos|
I'm in the process of renovating a 1990s (successful!) electric model, the 'Todays Hobbies Inc. " SkyVolt". This was a kitted version of the design from the pioneering US electric flight enthusiast and 'Model Aviation' columnist Bob Kopski. Although these days I would always use separate aileron servo, one in each wing panel, this design features a single centre(center!) servo.
The 'built up' ailerons are top hinged. I let-in a small off cut plastic tubing to the top surface and covered this with thin ply to strengthen and support the buried aileron wire. The attached pics I hope show this sufficiently clearly. Covering is no problem, at least the Solarfilm Fibafilm covering is still strongly attached some 30 years on from first application!
|Thread: Pureists Look Away|
There's a 'cottage industry' German modeller/engineer that sells the whole range of Cox motors from 'PeeWee' upward or else will convert your own Cox engine to electric motive power. From memory, I don't think they were cheap though!
|Thread: CAA registration take-up?|
Recently, whilst being 'chaperoned' by my CEO around a certain major 'Penny Bazaar' high street/mall shop. I noticed a pile of quad copters for sale (£25-00).
Picking a box up, I flipped it over to read the smallish print on the back. Whilst the text did say not to fly near airports and a few other cautionary points, it hardly leapt out to me and, dare I say, would it to an eager youngster who just rips open the carton on the 25th!
|Thread: Bespoke water slide decals|
I've used a 'hybrid' method - printed decal paper + clear vinyl scrap (from a kit decal sheet).
Having a Multiplex 'Fun Cub', I fancied a fun scale 'Piper J3' scheme including the iconic cub bear insignia that adorns the tail of those yellow J3 aircraft.
After downloading the image from the net, I printed it on decal paper. Then, using clear self-adhesive vinyl from the surround area of the MPX kit insignia, covered the 'cub', allowing sufficient surround to attach to the model.
For Foam models, this would seem a very practical and certainly durable option as water slide decals alone, tend not to adhere long term to these surfaces.
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