Here is a list of all the postings Capt Kremen has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 2019 Special Issue|
Wow! Latest 'RCM&E' Special dropped through the letterbox today.
An issue with real CONTENT and not filled with 'advertorial' for a change.
It reminds me of the 'little' Radio Modeller of old, filled with text and articles on Balsa 'n Wood constructed models. Also, you can actually read the text as it's not printed against a non contrast background, so favoured of 'arty' publishing folk, bless them!
I often browse issues in newsagents and leave on the shelf as there's very little real 'content' or substance of interest or else same old, same old 4 or 5 contributors/writers/photographers, (good as they may be). I do appreciate fresh views from others.
Sincerely hope this standard can be kept up on a regular basis.
|Thread: Aileron Thickness|
Yep, that American was meaning 'Round(ing)' the leading edge of ailerons and also making them (slightly) thicker than the rear of the wing they attach to. As for sharp/straight trailing edges i.e. the very, very end edge of the T.E. taper, agree with Don.
Many an aerobatic type has a 'reverse taper' trailing edge, especially seen on rudders. This, it is suggested assists in preventing 'fishtailing' .... wiggle-waggle, wiggle-waggle!
Meanwhile Don, I hope I'm not an idiot but I think it's a brave person who doesn't admit they've never done some idiotic things in their time, even when flying model aeroplanes!
I have a American flight school book, ("Airplane & Radio Setup" by David A.Scott), which states do not 'bevel' ailerons but 'round' them. Also ... make the ailerons thicker. Author Mr Scott, who runs a long established R/C flight school and is also a qualified full-size display pilot, describes the advantages/theory of these actions. i.e, re-energize (US spelling LOL!) the airflow over the ailerons to maximise control authority and generate a linear control response. Also ... his 'Rule of Thumb' quote" Raise the aileron, elevator and rudder approx 1/16" each side - 3/32 to 1/8" thicker overall"
You can check out his Flight School books and download illustrated sample pages.
My 'flying field' experience, seal the gaps first and foremost, all the other ideas???? maybe/maybe not, my skills can't deduce any discernible improvement (or degradation!).
|Thread: Shortage of 35% (100cc) aerobatic kits in the U.K.|
Considering the shortage of kits in ALL retailers, they must be having a very hard time at present. Most fliers don't buy Radio sets every '5-mins' either. Any retailers here wish to say what, if anything much, is being bought at the moment?
I do appreciate many of us here, build from plans, 'roll-our-own' designs etc. but we are a minority of a minority if the evidence on flying sites I visit are anything to go by.
|Thread: Ladybird 1.5|
As a youngster growing up in Cardiff, I built the original KK 'Ladybird' F/F model. Powered by a Cox 049, as a complete novice, I launched the model with a full tank of Cox finest glow fuel at Ely Racecourse [Trelai Park(?)].
Up, up and away in spiralling circles until the 42" wingspan was a mere dot in the sky! A mixture of joy, (at the flight), and sadness I would never see my tissue 'n doped pride and joy again.
Off home, I wondered if pocket money shilling might stretch to a new model replacement from Watkins, Ironmongers at The Insole parade of shops or even if very lucky, grandad would take me to Bud Morgan (Model Shop) in the cities Castle Arcade.
Anyway, a few days later, about 6 of an evening, a knock at the front door. A Forestry Commission workman stood in the porch clutching my lost treasure. It had apparently flown way over the nearby hill toward Penarth and landed in the trees that (fortunately for me) were being worked on.
And so that weeks (and some!) pocket money was given to the workman as a reward.
My name & address had been scrawled in faint 'Boys Biro Handwriting' on a panel near the tail which fortunately hadn't punctured in the branches.
Great to see 'Ladybirds' fly on in Cardiff!
|Thread: Max Thrust Riot - Upgrades|
Sorry to hear of ALL your 'Riot' woes Jeff.
As I often say, most ARTFs made down to a price, not up to a quality.
My 'Riot' was an 'airframe only' purchase to which I replaced: Motor (now 4-Max), ESC (4-Max), Prop (balanced APC), Spinner (Ali back-plate+balanced), HiTec mini servos all round with ball-link clevis = absolutely no free-play linkages, Undercarriage 'Chinese metal' bolts replaced with DuBro axles, u/c fixing also improved to prevent pulling out, larger wheels too. AND those horrible metal snakes that bind in the outers drawing substantial current=A, not to mention making precision control nigh impossible! Replace!!!
LiPo area 'hollowed out' to easily accommodate a 3S 3300mAh pack plus secure with velcro strap. The original plastic 'rats cage' urgh!!!
C of G start as recommended in instruction sheet then adjust to your taste/preference. Many end up removing that lump of weight, you may or may not find that trim comfortable for your style of flying and requirements.
Yes, I've tried that HK C of G gadget 'orrible, now use either the Multiplex or Great Planes C of G devices = no problems.
Flying - Fly the 'Riot' in all winds and weathers, no problem, now, (with all the mods), a great hack model, loads of them in our club.
|Thread: Incidence Meter/Gauge Measurement|
My old Robart Incidence Meter/Gauge has given of its best and I am in need of a new Incidence Meter. Reading the reviews it seems the quality of currently available and advertised meters is less than ideal! This includes the Robart, Multiplex and E-Flite devices, all seeming now to suffer from inferior materials, construction and resultant inconsistencies in readings & results.
I have checked the helicopter specialist suppliers, thinking they surely must have accurate meters for setting blade angles, tracking etc. nothing apart from the less than ideal brands already mentioned.
So, any recommendations for a consistent, precision, quality incidence meter?
How many even bother to check and correctly set incidence(s) these days, given the dominance of ARTFs???
|Thread: Hands free mobile calls|
I venture the majority, (not all I appreciate!), of the folk on here are retired and highly likely to have less of the working life pressures e.g. paying a (big?) mortgage, holding down a high pressure job etc. etc.
Consider for example the Sales Rep, rushing from one prospective customer to the next and the call from the boss comes in on his hands free whilst driving ... 'Bloggs you're sales figures are rubbish, (or words to that effect!), you're fired!!!'
Where is the drivers attention and focus likely to be????
I am reminded of the Bob Newhart comedy sketch, (available on the 'Tube) regarding smoking and Walter Raleigh ... roll on when driving is similarly looked upon as absurd and no human has to drive, the 'pods' carry us in safety where ever we want to go. No more tail gating, speeding in fog, 'no light' , no indicator dummies, kiddies in boom, boom blue racers, traffic jams etc. etc. Everyone can relax, chat on the phone if they wish, read a book or latest RCM&E, play an instrument, do something really useful instead of just sitting in a tin box on wheels getting overheated at others antics on the road. If only ....
|Thread: RCM&E Dec 2018 - Ruckus Review Update|
As per my experiences, (see review section), the 'Ruckus' out-of-the-box is a BASIS for a general hack/sports model, as others have found. Quality of items as supplied, (U/C, axles, clevis, snakes, motor, ESC, prop, spinner, canopy retention and placement of these etc. etc.), can be very subjective and change a mediocre / 'duff'(?) model into a joy to own and fly. Like most, if not all ARTF, creations from the far east, IMHO they are made down-to-a-price, not necessarily up to the quality seasoned model builder/assemblers would prefer. Although much of the 'Ruckus' shares common parts with the 'Riot', I still find my 'Riot' the better of the two aircraft. Several 'Riots' have appeared in my club and are flown by a range of pilots, from relative inexperienced to 'hooligan/chuck it about' merchants! Each to their own. Enjoy!
|Thread: Multiplex Cockpit Sx 9|
Whilst on MPX 'Cockpit' timers ...
Can you, (easily), stop the TOTAL flight time counter (Timer 2)?
[I appreciate you can on the screen by touching T2 'Stop' - I'd prefer my (total) flight time (not motor run time) on a on/off switch].
i.e. Flick 'On' as soon as wheels leave the ground and 'Off' when model touches down, not having to wait until after you taxied back, made LiPo safe etc. etc. Explored the timer screen and options couldn't make Timer 2 stop trying to assign to a switch.
Just experimented on my 'Cockpit' Tx:
Depending on how you have your 'buttons/switches' assigned, you can toggle the sound on/off but 'Angela/Frau M' on 'Timer 1' keeps on speaking regardless.
The default(?) sound button is on the top left-hand side labelled 'Teacher/Vario'. Alternatively, you can touch the bottom right square next to the battery status and toggle through that. Maybe our resident MPX expert Frank S. knows.
Still reckon a decent manual would save a lot of head scratching for mere mortal MPX users!
(e.g. What do the 'Blue/Orange' adjustable bars you find by sweeping several steps to left signify with 'enable slider' tick box 'System Information 3' it says????)
A fantastic system nevertheless.
|Thread: Tucano 45" Decal set|
Stan Yeo (Phoenix Model Products), makes a 50" Tucano, he may be able to supply a set of decals used in that kit.
|Thread: Playboy Senior|
As others have mentioned, the tail end, (especially), needs to be kept light.
I built a vintage 'Air Trails', Ray Heit design the 'Scrappy', (similar to the 'Scram'. All traditional fabric and doped covering, couldn't get it anywhere near a safe balance point. In desperation, I ended up recovering the tail plane and fin/rudder assembly in tissue. I was amazed at just doing that simple little thing, made a huge difference to achieving a safe flyable C of G.
Also, with the advent of LiPo replacing the 'lead weight' NiCad cells of earlier electro-flight days, that has made the C of G balancing act more of a challenge!
|Thread: Multiplex Vario/Altimeter vs UniSens-E|
+1 For the Unisens.
Can't see the point of daisy chaining multiple (expensive?) MPX telemetry units when the Unisens does most if not all at the 'tick box' selection on set up. Very small unit too. Also can work with other radio systems if you stray from MPX!
Edited By Capt Kremen on 05/08/2019 13:33:54
|Thread: Seagull Models VANS RV-8|
A fellow club mate is contemplating buying a Seagull Models VANS RV8 model.
Firstly, anyone with end-user experience of this model (kit quality, flying qualities, hints 'n tips for build and flying?)
Secondly, What Electric Power Set-Up would folk recommend, (Motor, ESC, Number of LiPo Cells, Prop Size?
Weight: Approx. 11lbs
Area: 992 sq.ins
Kit Suggests: 20cc/.91 i/c or 1500-2000W electric
|Thread: Finding Models|
Having recently had the misfortune, (probably due the 'loose nut on the Tx'!), to land out, my fellow club mates and I, spent a fruitless few hours searching for my model. 'We' believed we had a reasonable fix on where it went down too.
As many will know only too well, at this time of the year, farmers crops are (very) well grown = 'high'. They also are in the process of being cut by those wonderous monster combine tractor machines! Despite all the 'bad press' quadcopter drones get from us fixed wing aviators, this flier was glad of their abilities. The following day, a mere 15mins 'hovering' over a tall crop field, some distance from where we all earnestly thought the model had gone down, the missing aircraft was located via the drones on board video link camera.
So this prompted me to examine what is available for locating models.
I subsequently purchased a 'Loc8ator' and a 'VIFLY Finder V2' unit as mentioned above.
Whilst not expecting NASA or GCHQ tracking accuracy, I can vouch that both systems work very well.
The 'VIFLY' in particular, is exceedingly good for its modest £10 cost. It has its own mini LiPo. This charges from the flight pack via a normal servo connection to the Rx. It can be triggered by a spare channel on the Tx. (Very loud bleep!). AND if the A/C power source disconnects in the
Whilst not claiming these are 100% perfect, as aids (plus help from a friendly drone perhaps?), you may stand a reasonable chance of finding your errant model.
|Thread: Keil Kraft Ladybird|
My recollection was that the cowl was formed using 1/32nd balsa sheet, soaked and rolled in two layers around a traditional 'old style' glass milk bottle. There is a sketch on the original plan illustrating this. Also, mine ended up with lots of down thrust which rather spoilt the would be 'D.H.Beaver' sports scale look. It flew superbly though and mine went AWOL for a few days until a kindly Forrest ranger knocked on a 8 year old's front door to reunite me with it!
|Thread: Planespotting Live|
Anyone watched the BBC 'Plane Spotting Live' programme on BBC4?
Oh dear!!!! Only another two episodes to go (thank goodness).
|Thread: Wot no Acrowot!|
As a club instructor, I've had the 'pleasure'(?) of flying ply/balsa 'heavy-weight bricks and featherweight foamy trainer models. (E-Flite 'Apprentice', Max Thrust 'Riot', ST Models 'Discovery', 'Boomerang', Irvine 'Tutor' to name but a few AND 'WOT4' (Foam & Balsa/Ply variants) and the 'WOT Trainer'. They all have certain merits, all have certain shortcomings. The 'WOT Trainer' (IMHO) seems a good balance of extremes. It can take a few knocks, gentle 'nodding' stall, fly in a range of wind strengths including quite windy conditions. (Do you want to train a newbie in gale force conditions(?) Worth consideration if nothing else.
'WOT Trainer' although a Ripmax ARTF, to do a thorough and airworthy job, wings need joining (epoxy), tail fin and tail plane gluing (your adhesive preference), all control surfaces need gluing/pining, fit radio gear and control linkages/horns, fit motor i/c or electric (different mountings), accurately drill cowl attachment screw holes. Replace parts that don't meet your quality control checks e.g. Chinese soft metal axle bolts, unbalanced 'cheapo' plastic spinner, inferior clevis etc.
All in, a little more than the usual '5-minute' job. I'd say it's a half-way house between a traditional full build or an out-of-the box 'n fly job! (That's if you wish to do it justice and ensure a durable, safe model IMO).
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