Here is a list of all the postings Erfolg has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gee Bee Model D|
Things have slowed to a halt.
I am having trouble getting a replacement set of transfers made, as i do not trust the ones that came with the kit due to age.
The other thing is I am waiting for for some items from Hobby King, which are out of stock items.
|Thread: Posting Letter to the USA|
I have a price from Callie.
She does have an Jpeg image of the items.
I had agreed to send the originals.
What i did anticipate the issue of viability as a letter, from the UK. I guess the USA postal system is more realistically arranged from a cost and what is a letter, standpoint than the UK.
On another side issue, my wireless printer/ scanner, is not connecting to the PC to send scanned images, although it is quite happy to receive data from the PC. Does anybody have any idea what the issue is. I have tried to sort the issue from time to time, getting nowhere. In the distant past it did communicate 2 ways. It is a Epson stylus SX425W.
It does have a slot for a card, without looking at the instruction sheets, at present I have no idea for what.
As to why not the UK, one sees the work as a contribution to their pension pot, another has issues that prevent considering the job until a bit later. I guess we are a small market, so there are not many businesses out there who are interested.
I have in the past produced transfers using my home printer, using clear and white transfer water slide paper. The white went well, the clear not so well. All fixed using WBV sprayed on, using several coats. It could well be that many are a little more skilled than i am.
Callie as recommended by some do seem to offer moderate, affordable prices, by a person who seems to know what she is doing. This is based on a number of customers on this site.
My frustration seems to be a UK based issue, where the PO behaves like a Government run business, , charging prices of a Private Monopoly. But then DHL are even more expensive, although they do not seem to do letters, in reality.
Gnashing teeth, I have had far bigger transfer sheets with ARTF models.
Edited By Erfolg on 13/08/2018 20:36:07
I am trying to send the original "Set of Transfers" that came with my "Coverite, Black Baron" Gee Bee Model D.
The reason being is that the kit is about 40 years old. It has taken me that long to get around to building it. I have very recently built a "Sterling Kits", PT19.
This came with a Transfer set. The kit was not as old. The Transfers disintegrated when I tried to use them as normal. The ones that I salvaged, were given several coats of water based Varnish. The roundels on the top I painted on, those were the ones i lost, in the attempt to place on the wing.
It is after this experience that I have decided to get another set made up by scanning and then printing out again. In this era not a big deal operation if you have the gear.
You perhaps can imagine my surprise to be quoted over +£100, for one set, copied before postage.
Just you know what I want copying.
Edited By Erfolg on 13/08/2018 20:10:40
It is the size of the registration Numbers and letters. It is the length rather than the width that is the issue.
One of the transfer producer wants more than the cost of many kits or ARTF , to copy existing but old transfers, hence a USA supplier is very much lower in total charges.
It just seems that UK post is perhaps the most expensive, and complex pricing regime that it is possible to device.
|Thread: Bluebird 2018|
I built a model about 450mm long unfortunately I have never finished it. Mainly because I do not know how to build a flexible drive shaft assembly. I have some bits, but no knowledge.
The jet bluebird came into my consciousness at the age of about 10-12, as a mate had a plastic kit bluebird.
I had a book about Crusader, that could be why I remember it more clearly.
|Thread: Drone consultation|
I think I have missed this one (https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/drone-legislation-use-restrictions-and-enforcement) on the BMFA site.
Is there any guidance as how to respond, by the BMFA or opinion here?
Is there a thread here?
|Thread: Posting Letter to the USA|
I am trying to send a letter to the USA. The weight of the paper is approx 10g
The problem comes from the size, or that is how it seems. The paper is 450mm long or 45 cm in Post Office speak.
I bought a C3 envelope which is in Post office speak is 324mm * 458mm.
Great I thought, until I look up the post charges to the USA, by the PO, their the maximum size letter appears to be 350mm long. Which is no good for me. Treating the letter as a parcel it suddenly becomes very expensive at over £26.
As a 100g tube, less than 90 cm it becomes £5.25. I have a tube which is 70cm * 5cm dia, which seems to fall within this category.
Given it is a pain in the posterior for me to trek to the almost local PO, I would like some certainty as to what to do. I would also like some reassurance that my interpretation of cost is also correct.
I tried DHL, where I could get a bargain price £92 shipment.
All of this makes the HK charges seem like peanuts for the parcel that they ship.
Any guidance out there?
That is good to know, any Vat is no problem, handling charges are.
I am curious, as if declared as over £15, the handling charges, plus Vat will often dwarf the actual cost of the decals.
Can this be managed to break orders into less than £15 and then paying a higher P&P or the P&P reflecting a more realistic charge of say $10?
It is not the Vat I object to as this often pence, it is the astronomical handling charge.
|Thread: Lanier-Giles 202|
I have purchased a number of the Corona Servos, the principal reason being that the torque is not far from my old S128 and the weight about half.
I have an aversion to weight at the back of a model, particularly if the moment arm is large.
I will just use the one on the elevator. Assuming that I manage to get into a screaming dive, it will then be the one servo that i would not want to suffer from being blown back. Although rough calcs do not indicate any realistic danger of this, the chances of me damaging the gear train in the house are more real. On the elevator this causes me to believe all is lost, if it becomes apparent in flight.
Being more realistic most, it is that most of my adventures occur due to stalling. That can vary from flying slower than I think on approach to landing, or pulling to tight a turn, when flying, even when traveling fast.
I am now into creating the bath tub central area.
If I had been designing/cutting the kit, if I had wanted to loose weight, in this area, i would have gone for a Warren Girder cut outs. Although the battleship designer in me would not have bothered. Yet I now recognise the reason so many ARTF built up models fly so well, is that they are not over weight as the equivalent model type in the 70s. Where in reality as many crashed due to stalling than the then blamed radio interference or equipment failure. Although interference and equipment failures did happen. Many of the hot shots, were not quite as good as they and others thought, it was that we were just even worse.
Edited By Erfolg on 09/08/2018 14:02:29
Nigel, I am now hazy about many things, not just torque.
Although slightly of topic, the issue was still in my mind as i went to sleep.
I did think how about looking at things slightly differently, lets see what the maximum speed the available torque could handle,
As with many things, once we have a relationship that we believe to be true, it just needing transposing into Vmax. For once pretty simple.
I did then take the time to look up the claimed Torque of a HX900 (as I have written previously, I have in the dim past measured).
The answer comes out at 110mph.
I then took up the point of when the servo is at max travel, the effective force will be less. I made an assumption that the max throw would be 45 degrees. I simply resolved this to Opposite = Hyp*Sin45. This gave an answer of 1.1kg. Again feeding this value into our first equation gave a value of 91 mph.
By now I was cooking on low pressure gas. I thought was is the max speed that I can expect from the model in level flight on a fully charged Lipo (when new)?
We know that speed = revs * pitch which becomes V = Kv*Volts* pitch * 60/36 *1760 or Kv*volts*pitch/1056
in this case V =790*16*6/1056 = 71mph
In reality due to propellor losses and Lipo volt drop of the speed will be at least 10% lower.
In addition I have a Arcus which was probably my fasted model, until a propellor change to a APC type seems to have slowed it.
I think the debate is similar to a typical car type discussion, where I would argue that a Dacia is all I need to go shopping in, or to the field.
Others would rightly say the performance is lacking compared to my Porsche, (or Mercedes SLR etc), it accelerates far better, in all circumstances, out corners the Dacia and the comfort levels are at another level.
The argument is less convincing when comparing the Dacia to small Vauxhall or Ford etc.
A lot comes down to cost, and performance required.
With some of the expensive servos, my expectations are much higher, so a gear train failure (managed to get the model down without damage) and a suspected amplifier failure, is disappointing. As with expensive cars (when new) any fault with their comprehensive features is unacceptable (in their case there is often much more ancillary and convenance equipments to go wrong). In the case of servos the current draw can become an issue, requiring power boxes and so on.
This model is small, may look the part, in reality is as near a Sports Car as my Ford Mondeo was.
I have not still made up my mind though.
As per i would have sheeted the model as one tenor has written, if it were not a kit, I would have gone that way. I am conscious that this ex Clanky, does tend to build in weight as if building a battleship, which is one reason I do welcome input, to help me build light with adequate strength, whilst maintaining the visual look of the full size.
Bare in mind it is now some 15 years since I have retired, probably over 20 years ago since I undertook any meaningful calcs and in the dark ages when I obtained my degree.
If we take the classic relationship of L = 0.5*Roe*V^2*S*Cl.
then substitute some typical values with those of my model, in this case the elevator. We get
L=0.5*1.01*27^2*0.05*0.2 *1.3 taking approx 60 mph and a Cl of 1.3. I do acknowledge that the V*2 is an important value. I get a value of approx 4.78N.
I then went on and made another assumption that the CL acted at approx 25% of the chord and that this equates roughly to a cm. I then assumed that the control horn was the same. All for convenance and ball parking everything.
then the Torque in Kg becomes 4.78/9.81 = approx 0.5kg. This value is approx 1/3 of the torque available from a typical 9g servo (at the stall).
I had refrained from causing controversy, but no longer. The only servo I actually have positive proof of failing in flight was a rather expensive one, often recommended as bullet proof in many mags. All of my 9g failures have occurred on the ground, when i have damaged the gear train.
Although I have no issue with most servos, other than some std. Tunigy ones I purchased, where the speed was much lower than quoted, in many instances on smallish models 9g are often adequate. When i read that some models have servos providing 1, 000kg of torque, on 210v I think, could they be over specified?
In general the HX900 seem to centre repeatably, provide the torque specified, the weak link is generally shock loading on the gear train.
I am not sure that I can agree with you Nigel.
I have in the past measured the torque of HX 900 and Turnigy 9g servos and the claimed torque is provided, of 1.2 kg @a cm. This compare well with the claimed 1.4kg @ 10.16" of Waltron, then using Horizon/EK Logitrol mechanics. Which was also much the same as the then Linwood, Micron servos et al . When you then consider that many then pretty large 60 powered RC Scale models were using these servos. More often than not with push rods that were often bendy, and often heavy. Using these servos to drive one surface via a short rigid push rod, seems adequate for many what are now seen as smaller applications.
Where they can fall short is in that the gears are fragile when compared to many std. sized servos. Even though Karbonite or superior polymeric materials are often claimed.
I do have 9g sized servos with metal gears, although often there seems to be one plastic gear in the chain. Plus they are heavy.
I do have a number of Futaba S100, 128, 3003, plus Airtronic Sanwa and Daewo servos all of much the same size and claimed performance.
Given that weight at the back doe not seem to be an issue I will use probably a S128 for the elevator, all the rest being 9g types.
I will be reinforcing the centre section, creating more of a "bath tub" type central region.
My own preference is place servos as close to the control surface as is practical with short push rods (to keep stiff). Accepting that there will be a voltage drop in the extension leads. Most if not all the long push rods I have seen have suffered from flexing of either the metal end wires and even the long push rod itself. I do use snakes occasionally, although the only really reliable ones have been Sullivan golden wire or the rods. Most of the competitors have suffered from stickion, or difficulty in securing the ferules at the ends.
It is some time since i have undertaken any work on the model. What with all the excellent weather, which has necessitated maintenance on the models being flown, there is no time to build. Thank God there has been no rain, as I would have had to garden, which would have meant.........
Anyway, I have mounted two 9g servos at the back, undertaken a small number of alterations, and nothing seems to have changed? Hmm, how can this be, I just do not get it.
I am now pretty confident that the Lipo will be mounted in the region of the CG. Which is very good news from an inertia view point. Although not at all expected. This is with all the big masses other than the prop insitu.
I am now thinking about how to finish.
At one time this would have been a pretty big model for this ancient electric glider guider, although tiny from a glider perspective. I just do not want to push the weight up. On that basis i may stop short of trying to get that GRP effect that the full size had, being a composite body.
I am not sure what to do other than re-enforce the central area as it is structurally lacking, The other thing is to install the wing servos, the cables being in there already.
|Thread: Thinking of changing my car|
Lamborghini or Maserati is the way to go, preferably the SUV types they produce. That way every one will now who to blame for Global warming, be it a real man made phenomena or just weather noise.
Better a petrol guzzler than a chemical nightmare created by electric vehicles.
|Thread: Lidl Sander|
I purchased one of the Lidl disc sanders, I was uncertain, although at the price, not going to be a big mistake, I thought.
It has been a very useful purchase, to date I have used far, far more than i ever thought, or imagined.
As a tool absolutely fantastic, providing a level of finish I never thought was possible by me. I use a lot of sanding blocks with Aluminum Oxide paper stuck on. I obtained OK finishes, almost acceptable accuracy. The sander, allows me to achieve a level of accuracy undreamed of. You just concentrate, watch, check, adjust, as you go along. The motor skills required when manually sanding, of keeping flat, controlling the orientation of the moving block and all the subsequent unwanted deviations are banished. The finish, is of retail type quality.
Just like a (Lidl) Lipo screwdriver/drill flagged up on this site, unbelievable quality, particularly at the price.
I have sent an inquiry to all of them. To see if anybody is interested.
Thanks to all
BEB I am not sure i can use this company as they seem to use a dog as a rag roller to paint the walls. It is cruel!
A link to the thread that this associated with, as i suspect i may need to recover or repaint the model in the near future. On that basis i guess two sets?
I have a set of decals they are some 35 years old, and are probably fragile. I am thinking of getting a new set copied, but by whom.
Any Ideas, as to who and the typical cost. The biggest is about 1.5 times a A4 in length.
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