Here is a list of all the postings Erfolg has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How do you attached to those solid inners on snakes?|
I was only considering heating the snake as an after threading solution. Not part of the process. At the end of the day, what matters is that you develop or use a method that works for you.
The problem I would have with ferrules is that the fit needs to be precise, where there are many suppliers/manufacturers producing their own external diameter extrusions.
With the standard Sullivan snake, I have never had any real problems. If I thought the screwed rod was to tight, when screwing in, i would look to find a slightly smaller screwed rod etc. Then the issue switches to the clevis. Yet for me this is normal, nothing seems to go together without a fight.
The solid inner is a new situation for me and I am grateful for all the examples provided.
Oh, err, takes me back, probably +50 years now to pressure on thin walled vessels. Although I almost remember that the ASME code used something a bit more complex than stress= pressure *radius/thickness of wall.
Given we are dealing with a situation where we do not know the internal pressure, then the practical issue of achieving a sleeve that is at best interference fit, to reduce the possibility of splitting and that we are dealing with a polymer, a pretty simple solution to splitting after threading is to simply warm the plastic, to a temperature before it starts to melt. The Mers will relax (or poly mers if you like).
Seeing all the solutions provided, I now know, how little i actually know.
The example I will be dealing with is a solid inner, which is going on the rudder. I have bought some (4 off) SLEC snakes, similar to Sullivan, I will use one for the elevator.
Incidentally I much prefer the golden snake (metal wire inner) made by Sullivan, virtually no sticktion
It may be of interest that when I retired, I undertook some simple experiments involving snakes and pushrods. Snakes were far better than pushrods for transferring accurately end loads. With a short unsupported ends, to the inner and outer, the inner or outer did not cripple at all. Pushrods were a different kettle of fish, due to the ends being the locations, and the rod itself having a high slenderness ratio, it would cripple very easily. Beefing up the rod itself considerably (increasing the mass, a lot) highlighted that the wire ends were plainly seen to deflect.
I came to the conclusion that a really stiff pushrod of low mass was difficult to make.. Better to stick the servo at the back as many ARTF models were then doing, as the moments about the CG, affected the CG more favorably (that is less).
The best pushrod i made used a aluminum arrow shaft as the pushrod with very short wires at each end.
I thought it might interest you.
Now it takes me to long to build to worry about detail.
I have tried the method that John has suggested. It certainly works, although the torque required to get the metal link on his quite high. I will look tomorrow to see if I have a 2 mm die and try that to reduce the force required.
Robin I have contemplated a similar method to that you put forward, not as structured as yours, Which I think would work, other than the nagging doubt that will always be at the back of my mind. There is an irony, in that i am happy with lots of glued joints, the difference being is that they have stood the test of time, tested by thousands of others.
Many thanks for your replies, as I can see a way forward now, based on others experiences and knowledge. I will do some experimenting in the morning.
In the past I have bought a snake which consists of a plastic outer sheave and what appears to be a solid, PTFE type material.
I am contemplating using it.
You know I have not the slightest idea what can be fastened to the inner. Never mind in a secure manner.
|Thread: Ebay sellers...|
I do not get paying a fortune for an old kit. Particularly if you then just look at it.
If I wanted one, I would obtain a plan and build from it. I would not even bother looking for old wood.
I bet I could build from scratch sub £100 for the airframe, I am thinking £50..
|Thread: Easy cheap build|
The model has now reached the stage where builders of kits/plans/own designs believe they can see the end of the road. That road requiring still many more hors of work and decision making.
For the ARTF modeler, it is just a few hours of work, perhaps a few evenings.
I now can make a tentative stab at the cost. I have used 4 sheets of 1/8" and 1 sheet of 1/4 balsa, say £8. The wing cost me a £10 er, from the club bring and buy sale. The UC wire about £1.50 (from my SLEC purchase). All of the ply is offcuts, some from DIY projects. The film covering is also very low cost. The checker was from the GiantShark closing down sale. In the case of the red, that is a HK, 5 metre roll for the cost of a single metre sheet from Solafilm. In both cases far nicer to work with, being tougher and far more heat tolerant and incompetent modeler proof. On that basis, it must have cost about £30 to make. In reality I had everything to hand.
The last statement is not quite true, as I have ordered a new Rx from HK, still to arrive, brace yourselves lads for a tirade if it does not turn up soon. The other issue is I m waiting for some MG servos to come.
I am going metal gears, because I realise that all my servo breaks are me moving the model about. I am far more clumsy than I will admit.
The Lipo will be from not in use stock. I always now seem to buy more Lipos than i need to reduce the postal cost per item with respect to weight.
Anyway, there is still much to do, which includes servo plate, install servos, snake runs, control horns and so on.
Oh, will I pretty it up, in my case possibly not.
Edited By Erfolg on 21/11/2019 16:50:34
Edited By Erfolg on 21/11/2019 16:51:42
|Thread: Hobby king delivery charges|
Last night I was thinking, contemplating recent events, as I drifted into sleep.
This week I have made a number of purchases from Amazon, what has struck me that all the purchases that come direct from Amazon, pop through my letter box, just after I have clicked confirmed order. I know, an exaggeration, yet that is almost how it seems. Both the ordering process is ultra slick, delivery is very similar.
I find the PO still, very much as in its Nationalised, public ownership days. Some parcels are delivered quickly, some seem to go via the panama canal, around both capes and then returning via the Suez canal. Yet my switch from Leeds came early the next morning, having ordered it the previous afternoon, although it possibly did not come via the standard postie. Just a few moths back I received a unable to deliver card, yet I heard the letter box, I was sitting by the PC, adjacent to a window that looks at the front door. By the time I got to the door, read the card, opened the door, looked down the road, there was no sign of the delivery van. Other times the service has been OK, our postie himself appears to be OK, although no sign, as an organisation in wanting to be "Wold Class", as I was told as a company we were expected to be.
HK need to find a better delivery service provider.
From my experiences HK delivery charges are pretty much the same as their competitors.
It does seem however that because HK use the PO, the charges in the UK are higher for small items than Amazon, who now seem more often than not use their own couriers. It seems that with small items that the PO charging regime, increases significantly once you move away from the letter. I just hope that UK carriers are not ham strung by restrictions to compete post election.
More often than not if the choice is the UK or the Netherlands, the Netherlands will be cheaper.
The postal service from Hong Kong now seems to be set to encourage European warehouses. Although for small items it has to be Hong Kong, even with a £14 limit, you can still obtain very good value, if the UK, MS is the baseline.
I have been caught once for exceeding the personal import limit by 50p (my mistake), although the PO charge was not a deal breaker. I have also had one of those stickers about EU, something or other, although it was an order for about £4, as I needed some "C" clips,HK seeming to be the only practical source for me. As a back order it came through on a priority post route. Could that have raised suspicions of a higher value?
|Thread: Easy cheap build|
I have had a look at Balsa bond, to my eyes it looks great.
Five Star also do a Balsaloc type product. Now they are in Bulgaria postage appears to be the bulk of their price. I use 5 Star Canopy glue, which works fine. I have also used their polypropylene to anything glue which works really well, given that gluing polypropylene to anything is next to impossible.
In the past I have used PVA and an iron to join balsa to ply sandwich, although my present PVA does not soften at all with heat. It seems some PVA is different to others. My present claims it is a resin, although I do not really know what a resin is, chemically, nor really what makes PVA, PVA. I am guessing in principal it is the difference between a Dead Mild Steel and one with Chrome or molybdenum in it etc.
Anyway I have been busy covering my creation (of Frankenstein) using checker from GiantShark (bought when closing the brand, and from HK.
I have to confess, I complained that the GiantShark stuff had no adhesive. That was not the case. It is simply that the carrier film is firmly attaches, I had not removed it, on this model I have once I absolutely knew that is the case. It is incredibly well attached.
So the checker went on fine.
In the case of the HK stuff, incredibly good, although I used a higher than normal (for Solarfilm) temperature. It adheres very well and shrinks even better. Getting the stuff around radiused surfaces, can be done, even by me .
So why has it taken so long, because I am absolutely hopeless at film covering. What young boys and girls manage in southern Asia in a couple of minutes, takes me hours. In addition the finish they achieve is significantly better, possibly without trying.
Now it is back to assembly, although I am waiting for some servos ordered from HK, stupidly I put my order in with some propellors, which are on back order, to make an order up just shy of £14 and less than 200 grams.
Oh, the teddies all belong to my granddaughter, honest, we look after her on Friday nights and when the parents are on call. Honest.
Edited By Erfolg on 19/11/2019 11:32:19
|Thread: Foam Model Repair|
I have due to my piloting skills undertaken a number of foam repairs.
In this case a new nose, the mangled one is to the side. There were numerous other small repairs involved.
This a wing tip repair.
If you look at my repairs, I tend to use quite different methods and materials dependent on the issues. Perhaps stating the obvious.
The Do335 has a ply box around which blue foam is stuck, using polyurethane glue. I try not to gap fill, making the best joints I can.
The Delta is constructed from Depron, sticking together using PVA. With PVA I rough up both surfaces, weight down, then wait days for the glue to go off.
I did have a wing fold previously on the 335, in that case the glued in spar, debonded, plus there was a poor spar arrangement. In that case I just put it back in place. I used a good glue, in that case Cyno, sorted the spar arrangement out.
You will possibly notice that I have skinned the areas with glass cloth, using Water Based Varnish, to get an OK finish.
There is no one way.
As has been suggested filling big holes with expanding foam, does not fit the bill, IMO.
I would bridge gaps using ply as spars.I possibly would bit by bit make the spars into "I" type beams, The emphasis on getting the wing and body geometries right. I would then fill the voids, probably using "blue foam" where large bits are missing, and roughly oversize sand to shape. I would fill the thinner sections with balsa sheet.
I would then sand to my perfect (or acceptable, in my case) size and finish.
Time is probably the most used asset.
|Thread: Autumn is here...you been flying ?|
I almost feel guilty, as there has been no rain now for a good few days, that is during the day, night seems to be another matter altogether. Whereas the news continues to report flooding else where.
It seems that the Environment Agency now accepts local flooding every 2 years, whereas the National Rivers Authorities used a 5 year criteria. It seem s that the EA dredges estuaries far less frequently than the NRA to reduce the back up of water inland and much more That is according to somebody on the radio who was chairman or similar position. No wonder we now see more flooding. Thankfully the sea defenses near us are being re-enforced, albeit very slowly, seems one man and his dog are sometimes at work. It will be finished next year. No I am wrong, I remember that the plan said it was finished early spring, ready for summer.
Today, was exceptionally bright, again compared with the past few days, apparently very little wind, blowing from the North so says the weather forecast.
Most surprisingly the track to our field, looked as dry as a bone, almost duty, except for the odd puddle, here and there.
So how did the flying go, dam cold and it felt much stronger than 10 mph. Just the one flight, Billy no mates says it all, tells the story of how good it was. Non the less, at this time of year you snatch the partial days, when you can.
|Thread: Hobby King Again Rrrrrrrrrr|
Are Hobby King perfect, no. Is the LMS perfect, well no. Of the two, HK offers a far better service and value for money.
It was HK and Giantcod (before their demise) that has been a principle factor in keeping aeromodelling accessible to the average guy. Additionally they have made a massive range of product available to us modelers. That is better than Ripmax, Mc Gregeor and Perkins combined.
The quality of the goods sold seems in general to be very good. As for Overlander, well i stopped using them some years back, perhaps they have now improved. That is an issue for retailers and distributors, a reputation is easy to loose, far harder to rebuild.
The most frequent issue i have had with goods ordered from HK, is the postal service. Not HK itself. I accept anything ordered from Hong Kong will often take many weeks to get here. From Holland a week or a bit more. The UK is often very quick indeed.
My major criticism with HK is a internet site that does not improve from a users point of view, seemingly less friendly than many years back. I can only guess the improvements are in the stock and purchasing aspects, that we users do not see.
|Thread: Easy cheap build|
I used to think when I had reached this stage, covering, that the model was very near to finished. With the advent of ARTF models, I now know that I am some distance away.
The odds and ends have taken much more time than you tend to think. The motor hatch has taken much longer than i would have thought.
It has taken me a day just to cover the underside of the model, goodness knows how long it will take for the rest.
Slow or what?
|Thread: Spares for my Mini drill|
I ordered a second switch, there is a reason, it is my incompetence.
It arrived today from a UK company, Farnall.
The switch has been fitted and the drill is back in action. I always have this concern that there is something else, that I have missed. In this case there was not.
Edited By Erfolg on 14/11/2019 18:43:31
Edited By Erfolg on 14/11/2019 18:44:33
|Thread: BMFA numbers. Is this true, or a gross exaggeration?|
My immediate concern remains how to avoid circa 2,000 people a year leaving the hobby.
I actually recognise some of the issues and attitudes raised. Although I am not sure are directly related to the lack of interest of youngsters. Which for me is a related problem, of attracting others to enjoy our hobby.
What has surprised me is that it appears that some modelers have decided to build sub 250g FF type models, in preference to RC. In one case in sufficient numbers that a club is being wound up, most probably.
The other issue of health and safety is far more difficult to pin down, what the issues really are, beyond it is an imbedded culture. Very recently I have participated (with grandchildren) in the making of a "Star Wars" model from recycled materials. A iron age "Scene". Last week a "Storage Container" made from household waste, to include plastic. In all cases I had to do all the cutting, as i was informed that they could not use sharp knifes. They were reluctant to use a hot glue gun. Papier Mache was not an issue. I chatted with my daughter and son-in-law who are both medics, one of which uses scalpels all the time. They were happy for me to teach how to cut safely, away from hands etc. and also the glue gun were not an issue, for them. It is in the schools and general society where the attitudes came from. There is an irony in that one of the projects emerges from a design and build class/subject. Just as PM has indicated. With respect to design, there are no shortages of ideas and dictated/specified requirements. It is the lack of encouragement of hands on working and the acceptance that live has risks, dangers, which need to identified and managed.
IMO, we need to encourage people to want to stay in the hobby. For the hobbies future, both immediate and long term, the loss of BMFA membership ideally halted at best, at worst reduced. Separately yes it is good for the UK hobby to get new members/modelers, from where ever they come from.
With respect to H&S, it is now an industry, where logically the abolition of any risk,protects their business, until nothing can be made in the UK economically.
In real terms the BMFA is a very small business, circa 30,000 customer base. Not really very impressive, if you were trying sell the business, almost a corner shop.
Yet, for us BMFA members, it is not about it being a business. The recent events with respect to the CAA reg changes has demonstrated that. Yet for a long time the BMFA, at least publicly were in denial as to the potential impact of the issue. They seemed to be focussed and perhaps are focussed on other projects.
Those who suggest that the BMFA is seen as the source for our insurance by the general membership, are probably not wrong.
In the past many clubs became affiliated to the BMFA, with more than a nod to competitive fliers, and the influence that these individuals had within a club. Often these individuals were both the most talented modelers in a discipline. Perhaps more importantly they would devote both time, effort, within their club. Today not many care about competitions, most members just want to fly, with the least fuss.
In this changed atmosphere, the emphasis on competitions and records, is of at best passing interest to the general membership. The irony is that even those who still compete have been known to suggest that the mag content with respect to comps, is a waste of space, if it is not favourite discipline.
Those who may give up in registering etc., are not those who currently compete. They could be the ones who decide that rejoining the BMFA avoids hassle, leaving them free to, garden, play golf, bowling and so on.
IMO it is the ordinary membership that the BMFA has to firmly focus on, many other aspects of what are current priorities need to slip down the pecking order. The real battle is retention of membership, and resisting further regulatory requirements that impact on participating in the hobby/sport.
Can the head office reduce costs, perhaps at the fringes, but it is wages and salaries that tend to be the largest charge. If the membership were to fall substantially over the years, increasing the fees could be counter productive, to the revenue stream. Our insurance business, would not be sought with the same interest as now.
I hope that the figure provided to the newspaper was inflated. Although even if not true, the old assumptions and priorities need to be addressed. Yet with all, or mostly those who give their time (voluntarily) to running many aspects of the BMFA generally focussed on specific interests, the ordinary members views and wants are not easily recognised.
I do not know the answers to the issues, as a pat set of activities that can ensure the BMFA can develop to meet the challenges that are coming
We all recognise that our hobby has changed, as the world around has.
I recognise that interests that seemed to be doomed, as we often say, have revived. Motor cycling in the UK as has been mentioned. In the 70s, very few wanted a motor bike, now there has been a revival, not to the 50s level, or usage. Motor sport has evolved, I remember that the 750 club, had a lot of back yard builders, it has all changed, although motor sport remains very buoyant. Cycling all but died a death from the 50s, until the probably the 90s, first mountain biking was going to save the industry, then the Lotus bike and Chris Boardman, waken a lot of the young up, then came all the Olympic golds, the Tour de France successes, and now it is the youth and middle aged out there. I would not be allowed near the Manchester Velodrome now, I am guessing, now that demand is so high.
Yet, my concerns are the now, particularly for the future of the BMFA. As a hobby we need a BMFA, for many differing reasons. Loosing 2,000 members a year, would be a big hit. It represents 5-10% of the membership, dependent when you choose the time and numbers. I just hope it is a temporary effect from registration and tests.
If the issue is primarily a function of the incoming changes, IMO the challenge is overcoming the issues that the requirements may be presenting.
As to the age profile of new modelers, older people became the primary source in the 70s, with almost reliable and expensive RC equipment. Well beyond what the majority of young people could access. Perhaps surprising is that RTF models are now so cheap that I would have hoped that youngsters would want at least one. Seems not. The comment of the air ages of the 40s-60s is probably the difference.
Yet I keep returning to the issue of the BMFA ensuring it survives. No grand visions of we just need to spend more on this, or that. More about sensible budgets and services that support the grass roots. The question remains how to make this a reality.
When I went through the (BMFA) accounts, I could see that the expenditure was based on a reducing membership. I was not completely convinced that what was expected, or prudent accounting.
It did strike me that the values were directly proportional, again I tended to see that as confirmation of a prudent 5 year type plan.
It is the reduction of 2,000 members that has startled me. Particularly in that events in one of my clubs indicate that many are not as committed to the RC aspect of the hobby as I thought.
Can this be true
The British Model Flying Association (BMFA) told the Sunday Telegraph it had lost more than 2,000 members in the last year, after it was announced they would have to register and take tests as part of incoming drone regulations.
If so what will be the longer term implication?
If not true, who said what and why?
|Thread: Spares for my Mini drill|
I have undertaken a second examination, with the hope of finding the fault. I have now identified that the on off switch is broken.
I cannot find the original switch for sale, the manufacturer, yes, the model, no.
I have have ordered a switch that appears pretty much identical, time will tell.
Of course now I can see it is coming from China, it could take months before it gets here.
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