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Member postings for Stevo

Here is a list of all the postings Stevo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Suitable gyro for rudder stabilization on take off
23/04/2013 14:19:42

Thanks you guys

Can't seem to find a GWS PG-03 anywhere but haven't given up. The '401 type' is that the HL401..?

Can you succesfully turn it off as soon as it breaks ground? Reading the reviews on GiantShark it seems like thay are noot too bad, but recent batches seem to be a bit lacking!

Steve

23/04/2013 13:28:41

Hi All,

What gyros are you guys using to stabilise the rudder? The majority of my aircraft are old timers and are prone to a bit of spinning around on take off...

From my research...

  • Heading hold
  • Needs to be switched off from the Tx

I feel confident to set one up but rather than experimenting and wasting my salary, anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks,

Steve

Thread: Dave Hurrell Be2c Scale project
20/04/2013 18:19:04

Finally got it to stand on it's own 3 feet! Made 4 brass plates to mount the skid struts... these are epoxied and pinned to the fuselage.

be2c 66.jpg

Here's the skid post, bound with solatex, and held in place with some elastic to test it out, after sheeting the bottom of the fuselage...

be2c 71.jpg

And... (hold your breath... It stand up!

be2c 78.jpg

be2c 76.jpg

be2c 74.jpg

19/04/2013 18:59:17

The rudder horn really needed gearing down from the servo, so I did this in two hops with an intermediate lever. Otherwise there would have been only about 10 degrees of movement on the servo for full rudder swing, making any endpoint / rates / expo adjustment a bit coarse!

be2c 61.jpg

be2c 62.jpg

18/04/2013 17:04:56

Here's a couple more... The coupler that joins the two elevator horn axles was made from 5mm brass tube and two wheel collets, silver soldered of course. The brass horn was from 1.2mm brass again, but soft soldered on. This allows for full dismantling of the assembly, and reassembly after covering.

be2c 60.jpg

Now here's the tail skid, from solid Ash, with a strip of brass fashioned around the end for the spring (elastric)attachment. It is epoxied on, and has a 1.2mm steel pin through it as well, if you look hard in the photo..

be2c 59.jpg

Edited By Stevo on 18/04/2013 17:08:54

17/04/2013 17:12:38

Here's a quick (out of focus) shot of the elevator control...

Edited By Stevo on 17/04/2013 17:14:35

Edited By Stevo on 17/04/2013 17:15:02

14/04/2013 20:18:23

 

Here’s my Silver Soldering 101…

Flux

I use the borax flux, mixed in a thimble sized container – I don’t use water I spit in it. No joke, apparently its better!! I use the free wooden coffee stirrers to mix it and apply it.

Solder

The Silver Solder I use is the slightly lower melting point variety. If you use brazing wire, and brazing steel, you would have to get it orange which would take all the temper out of piano wire!

Gear

I use a plumber’s butane torch, but with the yellow canister. It’s a mixture of Propane/butane and gives a hotter flame (overkill for plumbing!)

It is essential that you clamp the items together while soldering, so there is NO CHANCE of movement. Pop to the builder’s merchants and get a couple of breeze blocks to form a ‘hearth’. These reflect the heat back into the work. I use all manner of bits of wire, mole grips vices etc to hold things in place.

Preparation

Cleanliness…cleanliness.. the metal must be spotless. Emery cloth – use it again and again. Once I’m done, I jet it all with carb cleaner, which degreases it. Do a trial fit, complete with breeze blocks and jigs. Apply the flux quite liberally - paste all over!

Action

So, all jigged up. Flux applied. Torch ready. Solder ready…. Straighten out the solder as much as you can, and don’t use anything shorter than 3” or your hand will fry. I look at the work, and work out where all the heat will go – usually into the largest component. Fire up the torch and heat that bit and work towards the joint. Caution – if soldering brass/steel, Don’t go blasting away at the brass first – it will go very soft very quickly. The flux will bubble up and boil… then melt clearly…Keep torching it until it just starts to glow…the next bit takes practice. I dab the solder into the joint after moving the torch out of the way or the torch just melts the solder and it drops off… That’s about it, just a dab. The solder has a water like consistency and will flow readily… if you need more, swing the torch in again for 2-3 seconds – that’s all… and dab again… If all is well move the torch out the way and let it cool.

 

Cleanup

I use a scriber to flick some of the flux off… but don’t go overboard. Go on eBay and get some Citric Acid powder.. I dissolve as much as I can in hot water and then pickle the work for 10 mins… After drying off, use Emery cloth to polish it all up. Beware the wire brush in a drill/Dremel… that’s good on steel, but will scratch brass badly!

That’s about it – any questions ask away!

Steve

Edited By Stevo on 14/04/2013 20:21:02

14/04/2013 19:09:34

I learned from my late father - a Patternmaker.. I was turning wood when I was 6yrs old... (Turning it into what, you may ask)

14/04/2013 17:35:24

Decided on metalwork today! The elevator (fuselage) horns were out of 1.5mm brass sheet, with a small collet for support. I silver soldered a4mm axle to them all together and polished them up.

be2c 55.jpg

The elevator post was again from 4mm piano wire, exact as per drawing.

 

The axles pass through the fuselage, via 4mm ball races mounted in the side of the fuselage.

be2c 57.jpg be2c 58.jpg       Once I get to a lathe in the week, I'll knock up the coupler for the two axles, and silver solder a horn to them.

 

Edited By Stevo on 14/04/2013 17:36:41

13/04/2013 22:19:22

Hahahaha BRILLIANT... I chuckled!!! I used to be a guitar maker, so I could make a miniature... Nice looking DVII

13/04/2013 21:57:35

Plastic saddle clamps... Ermm... Ooops... Thought you wouldnt notice frown

I'll make up some brass ones <embarrassed>

PS - any ideas where I can get some 1/6 scale instruments from?

13/04/2013 18:36:38

I added the rear turtle deck from 1/32 play, and managed to scallop the edge – Not sure if that’s exact scale but I love it. Comments please?

be2c 51.jpg

Servo tray was from 3mm ply

be2c 53.jpg

Rudder fuselage horn was from 1.5mm Paxolin, mounted onto a Perspex boss with a 4mm ballrace pressed into it. Totally slop free!!!

be2c 54.jpg

Here’s the engine mounting, from 6mm plybe2c 52.jpg

11/04/2013 18:20:14

Progress indeed, and this should take away your guess work!!

The fuselage was built over the plan, but I deviated from the script. The braces between the longrons were 3.2mm spruce, the longrons were counterbored by only 2mm and the spruce pressed in with loads of glue!

One side was built over the other for accuracy and symmetry, then some more changes. A 1mm hole was drilled all the way through the longron, either side of the spruce. I then routed a 1mm wide groove between the two holes …… Logrons were sanded to a radius between the formers enhancing the scale effect: -

be2c 44.jpg

I got hold of some extra strong (I couldn’t break it!) thread, and CA’d it in place, after pulling it as tight as I can. The thread laid in the groove I routed, which will be filled in a wood colour. This had the effect of the thread pulling it all together - and strengthened it.

be2c 43.jpg

Throughout I used a SLEC jig to keep it all square and symmetrical.be2c 39.jpg

Thread: JR XG8
09/04/2013 14:32:47

**URGENT**

I think I have found a fault with this Tx!!

 

Could anyone replicate it for me?

 

Choose a blank model, and name it to anything “TEST” etc…save a few parameters, like expo, rates, heli or aero – it does not matter what, as long as it’s not the defaults.

 

Leave the Tx switched on UNTIL the battery runs out.

Now, recharge the battery, and power on the Tx.

Where has the model gone?? – I’ve done this twice now and had to reprogram some models back in…

Edited By Stevo on 09/04/2013 14:33:02

Thread: Dave Hurrell Be2c Scale project
09/04/2013 14:15:51

Main struts are from 10SWG piano wire, however, the two rear struts meet behind the axle, which rests on the skids. The net result is that they had to be redesigned! They are encased in Ash, I rough shaped the struts, sliced them in two with a bandsaw and routed the recess for the wire. I finished it off with a mini gouge – which my late father made from an umbrella strut!! Aliphatic glue was used to hold them together, and then finally shaped.be2c 36.jpg

The two front struts are solid ash as they don’t take too much of a load. The black brackets are in fact 1.5mm brass, with all attachment points silver soldered. The cross braces are again piano wire, soft soldered in place and bound where I can.

 

All the wood was dyed with a dilute solution of Mellow Pine, to simulate darkening of the wood due to age. Finally it had 8 coats of gloss lacquer (fuel proof).

 

The design on the wheels was from the Aerodrome forum, with the exact lettering for inside and outside covers. The text was adjusted in CorelDraw, and printed off onto waterslide decal sheet. MicroSol settled them onto the ‘spokes’, and when dry they received three coats of satin fuel proofer.

be2c 33.jpg

Thread was tacked on with CA, and wound around each strut. (Time consuming!!) When complete, they all received a coat of matt fuel proofer.

 

The aerofoil section on the axle was an aluminium extruded section, epoxied in place. Natural Solartex was round around it and ironed on. The track rods were made from collets of two different sizes, and piano wire – all silver soldered.

be2c 34.jpg

You can see a ‘hoop’ over the axle – this is from 1.5mm piano wire, epoxied in place. This is so that of the elastic gives way, the axle does not spring up and the skids dig into the ground and the aircraft flips over.

be2c 38.jpg

Rigging points are 2mm solder tags – there are now some extra ones due to the skids.

be2c 32.jpg Oh, almost forgot, the axle stubs are 5mm brass tube, soft soldered to the main axle, and a 1.2mm hole drilled through the end to take a split pin or similar. this means that the wheels / axle assembly is easily removeable.

Edited By Stevo on 09/04/2013 14:20:51

Edited By Stevo on 09/04/2013 14:21:43

03/04/2013 17:31:48

Oh and yes indeed - the U/C axle will now be 4mm.. thanks for your advice.... My birthday yesterday, and the Mrs got me some Williams Bros Palmer Cord Wheels... What an angel...

03/04/2013 17:22:40

Next installment!

The U/C of 10SWG was bent in a wire bender (what an investment!) and fitted to the jig. TOP TIP here - make a set of U/|C wire from coathanger wire - easily bent by pliers - then adjust it. Now you have an easily made template!

The skids attach by 1.6mm brass plates, all silver soldered...

be2c 26.jpg

And here's a shot of them attached... (adjustments to the geometry are forthcoming!) after adding cross wires, soft soldered and bound in the traditional way. Suprising how it stiffens it all up! There will be rigging attachment points of course.

be2c 28.jpg

Now for the jewel in the crown. One set of accurate laser cut parts for the fuselage...

be2c 27.jpg

Note the rear decking pieces - cut for 9 stringers, as the original.

Stay tuned!

02/04/2013 18:57:01

Well I've had some amazing replies.... I was going to start my last thread with "is DH still with us..." but realised I would have made a complete idiot of myself... I would have meant "is DH still modelling..."

Glad to hear that he is very much part of the scene... An email address for him would be fine, if you could PM it to me... Is there a list of aircraf he has designed? Thanks indeed BrianB.

Thanks for all the good wishes. I really hope to give it (and DH) justice.

I readjusted my CAD files today, after some initial cuts, with a second attempt tomorrow. I have offered them to Traplet (FOC) but the see fit to never return my emails... Once I've done and proved them, I'll offer them to anyone who needs them for a small charity donation.

02/04/2013 09:26:09

Another one? Are we all like busses? 3 at once?

A colleague of mine (Mike Watters) has built one from the Roy Scott plans, SC70 powered... I'm sure he's on here somewhere. I saw it at Shuttleworth last year and posed my Fokker DVIII alongside devil on the flightline...

02/04/2013 09:05:52

Well thanks indeed guys! Such a quick and positive response.

Regards points raised –

 

AXLE - I take anyone’s advice on the axle – DH specifies a 10SWG (3.2mm) axle, but I am quite happy to beef this one up a little of course.

ASH U/C – I did think very long and hard about this one. I would like some spring in the U/C, and for it to be easily repairable in the event of the earth rising up to meet it in haste. Some of the joints between the struts and skids (IMHO) may be a little weak and lead to possible failure. The width of the struts divided by 6 (1/6 scale) and the diameter of the piano wire make covering it in Ash a little easier, and not too fine. The front struts will be Ash on their own, with 2mm wire ends. I’ll get some photos of the wire U/C up later today, which has been silver soldered and soft soldered where appropriate. Also the skids are detachable for possible repair. I would love to see anything on DH’s Tabloid U/C though!!

HUGH - Great to see another one on the way Hugh! I’m really happy to swap any ideas etc on this, pity you have built the fuselage as I have drawn this out in CAD, and may start cutting them today. What were the “less clear parts of the plan.” ??!! I haven’t seen any.. well, not in the last 10 minutes, anyway… Should you need any of the wing/tail laminating jigs don’t hesitate to ask. Your colour scheme seems fantastic. Had a quick look at your pictures - and printed them off !!

I modified my fuselage stringers - the DH plan has 7 and the real Be has 9..so redrew them all out again... Have you got the Fox prop extender?

DAVE HURRELL – I know very little about this guy – could anyone fill me in?

General - The Aerodrome forum helped me somewhat, I briefly chatted with John McKenzie, who built the Be2b for the Hendon museum about exhaust sizes etc.

 

 

Edited By Stevo on 02/04/2013 09:17:34

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