Here is a list of all the postings Stevo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: ARTF - The Stevo way|
Ok forumites, a real feast for you today.
Radio installation, Undercart... Control linkages...
No too suprising really. I changed the horns on the rudder, elevator and ailerons for something a little more posh. I've had experience of using the horns as supplied in very cold weather, and the horns were old, too. They were quite brittle and snapped easily. I substituted some from Rapid RC, my go-to place at the moment.
There was no way that the fuel tubing would go over the clevises. I substituted a tie-wrap instead. The push rods needed to be bent outwards at the exit - as they rubbed against the covering and the friction was very bad.
Quite tight - not a lot of room!!
Don't forget to install the switch on the opposite side to the exhaust
Also make sure that the receiver sits on the velcro mount, and does not touch the airframe or servos; this will keep the vibration of the Rx to a minimum. Tuck all the wires under the mounting plate, use tie-wraps as appropriate, and don't forget to tape (using surgical tape) the aerials to the side, opposing at 90 degrees of course.
My battery was a LiFe, 6V, so no BEC was necassary. Yes the servos can take 6V, as I checked, but do not take that for granted.
As advised earlier, the supplied articles are very soft and can snap. I used a Sieg bender and 4mm Piano wire: -
As you can see from the above, the original was clamped underneath, as a template.
A Proxxon cutter makes short work of slicing them to size.
There you go, the original at the top - the two new ones underneath.
Now for another top tip!
When inserting the UC, the temptation is to cut the covering. No matter how tempting, and just like a Krispy Kreme Donut, do NOT be tempted. The covering will eventually split open and it will look awful. Not to mention fuel seepage.
Heat the end of the leg in a hot air gun, insert the leg, and force down with a wooden stick into the covering. The covering will stretch and adhere into the groove: -
Leave to cool and screw the plates in - again using hex screws. So much easier! Here they are completed: -
Nice 'n' neat. I'll put a blob of sealant down the hole just to make sure.
Edited By Stevo on 16/09/2017 17:37:05
Not quite a 'trainer' in the major sense for me Denis. I've flown Wot4s, Spacewalker, RIOT trikes and draggers. This is a confidence booster for me
|Thread: Measuring thrust angle?|
Careful here.. It looks like thrust angles.
I had an AcroWot foamie, everytime I opened the throttle it went into a violent steep climb. Eventally sussed that the tailplane was 4.5 degrees (yep 4.5) incidence to the wing. After an hour and a scalpel, I got this to 0.5 degree.
Never had the problem again.
|Thread: ARTF - The Stevo way|
Yes Brian I thought I had a Dubro FS adaptor around somewhere, but it was suprisingly easy to knock up quickly!
Stay tuned for more developments
Edited By Stevo on 16/09/2017 12:52:26
Yes the U/C legs are 4mm 'ChineseWire' so will bend some Piano wire tomorrow. I'm a bit puzzled; sometimes I see pics of this as a trike, and as a tail dragger too. Mine's a tail dragger, but has both sets of mountings in the wings - just in case!
Edited By Stevo on 15/09/2017 18:41:20
OOh! Didn't know that one, TWS. I'll bend up some proper ones!!!! More on that later.
Deviation from the script
Yep I'm a four stroke fanatic. But as I said earler, all these models say "40 two stroke of 4 stroke equivalent...". O.K. so YOU try and fit one!! So, a two stroke in here would be a good fit, so please stick to the manual. If this is your poison please look away.
It's the old story. The linkage is miles away from the carb. Stevo to the resue...
That should be self explanatory!!! It puts the linkage approximately where the two stroke carb would be. I've done this before on my Cessna, with a Saito 56.
Suffice to say, there's no slop at all.. and as smooth as Mr. Smooth covered in oil in a smoothness competition.
Here it all is, all plumbed in.
Edited By Stevo on 15/09/2017 17:37:53
OK so this is the tank mounting bracket. The tank has been sealed to the firewal as is usual practice with acrylic sealer. I also placed some sealant gainst the bracket as well. There is a small tab that protrudes from the back of the tank that engages in the bracket stopping it from moving. Pictures are self explanatory!
And finished off No a lot of room for the battery though... thinking cap is ON
Edited By Stevo on 15/09/2017 15:12:41
Interuuptions welcome Thank you!
I've had to make a tank bracket up - that backs onto the tank itself as the manual said 'use sealant'. Don't think so somehow... How was that supposed to attach the rear of the tank, then?? Sometimes I do wonder at these kits..
Oh yes that fin reached the bottom of the slot alright
Yes that's a difficult ome McG. Perhaps I didn't explain it too well.
It's usual that the tip of the eyelet is at the top of the rubber anyway; as it's a wood screw, you have no 'feel' as to what resistance it meets when tightening. Sufficient to say that screw it in until it meets the rubber, then just a little more which grips the eyelet, anymore then you are really compressing the rubber, and in extreme circumstances you could even compress the eyelet into the wood. Suffice to say there must not be a gap between the top of the rubber and the screw...
STOP PRESS 1: - those Savox servos are quite deep, and actually hit the shelf underneath, negating any dampening by the mounts.
STOP PRESS 2: - Once assembled, the tank and stopper would not (ever!) go through the hole in the bulkhead. I had to enlarge it by 2mm diameter to get it to fit... Tank mounting bracket coming soon.
|Thread: Wills and Model Goods|
I can only hope that my Mrs doesn't sell them on for what I told her I'd paid for them ...
Sensitive subject people, but important and nicely handled.
|Thread: ARTF - The Stevo way|
DaveyP - more tailplane for you
The slot required widening with Permagrit again as it simply would not fit..
Once in, you will need to mark again with masking tape..
As before, remove the covering 1mm below the masking tape. Back in the early 2000s, there was an acrowot flown around here, and the covering wasn't removed properly from the vertical stab. The stab departed in flight as the glue joint was just to the covering; the acrowot went out of control, and struck a young girl in the head, unfortunately the young girl was killed. Albeit it wasn't at a proper flying field apparently. This emphasises the need for covering removal.
Once again test fit. Now for the next tip. Run masking tape underneath the stab and agains the bottom of the fuselage. Why? As you then attach any tape to the top across the vertical stab, this will flext the horizontal stab upwards, making it an inaccurate reference to square the vertical stab too.. simples.
Now glue in, keeping the masking tape ON..
Don't forget to use a square against it all and inspect before you press the tape down. Now you know why the bottom was taped up
Servo Install pt.2
Thanks to an earlier suggestion... Install your servo rivets from the underside...
Don't forget that the brass eyelets install from the bottom of the rubber grommet!
The rubber grommet then isolates the servo from the vibration in the airframe. When tightening the screws, just enough to hold it in place and don't compress the rubber!!
Edited By Stevo on 14/09/2017 15:29:08
|Thanks Nick. Yes you are right.. Ill include that as well.|
Ive used Savox for 3 years; reliable, quick, vfm, 0254 is my go to servo.. metal geared as well! ?20..
Thanks to all... I never said what the free prize was though
Yes other options are available, I like Robarts, particularly for scale work. I used to pin flat hinges, but as I now install them well, I don't see the need any more.
I like the idea of cutting/sealing with th soldering iron
Cymaz - You bought one but never built it? Could have sold it to me - the hassle I went through to get one
Josip - thanks for the postive comment
Cymaz - you could be right...
Many of us on here are quite experienced, and take ARTFs in our stride, really. I thought I would write this hoping it would catch someone's eye, who is venturing into ARTFs/RC modeling for perhaps the first time.
I thought I would get some tips in there just to make it a bit more interesting and maybe things we didn't think of, such as the saw setting gauge or substitute a mobile phone and App; silicone sealant round the tail joins, extra fuel proofing.. I'll include the incidence gauge at the end too.
Thanks again Mr. Anderson
OK - a prize on offer.
Who mentioned in a previous forum, '... Devilspawn, otherwise known as the 'hardware pack..." answers on a postcard..! Cymaz, any takers?
Little more done today.
No big suprises here,follow as per instructions. When installing any servo, make sure the body is not pressing against the mount or the airframe - and it is held securely by the screws and rubber mounts.
In this instance I noted that the outer for the throttle went way past the throttle servo.. Kinda' obvious really, but it may catch the unawary!
Servo screws? everytime I use the hex variety from Modelfixings. They never shear or break, and you cannot 'round out' the hex socket. Always mark the hole beforehand, I use the screw centring gadget...
Ok so they are in.
I always insert the tail, and then mark with masking tape, not a marker. The marker is messy, and difficult to erase. The masking tape also stops any squeeze out onto the tail. BUT... don't force the tail in. Ever. I had to relieve mine a little with a permagrit file. Dont be tempted with a chisel, will you?
Then of course use the tape to mark the postions when it's in accurately. More on that later.
Heres another trick How to get the horizontal stab level? Insert the aluminium tube - which is now the horizontal reference. I use a digital pitch gauge for saw table setting. Set this as zero degrees - make sure the fuselage is firmly clamped or weighed down. Insert the tail and place the gauge on that ... anything within 0.2 - 0.3 degrees will do. In this case it was OVER a degree... Again Fettled with the Permagrit.
Mix up some 30min epoxy, yes 30min. Believe me, the last thing you want is it going off when you are trying to position it!
Insert the tail after coating with Epoxy - DON'T use too much.. (here you can see the covering removed between the lines of masking tape. Cut, using a SHARP scalpel and a ruler 1mm to the inside. Go easy... try not to cut into the balsa..)
When sliding in, the making tape is your guide. Measure from a central point to each corner of the tail... and when these are equal, its centered!!!
Use a coffe stirrer.. to wipe off the escess epoxy. Wipe off with a rag, DO NOT USE ANY THINNERS (the print on the covering will wipe off!) and remove masking tape.
OK all done. Vertical Stab next
Edited By Stevo on 13/09/2017 19:14:31
|Thread: Can I use 3rd-party temperature sensors with FrSky smart port sensor?|
Oops... just seen 75kBaud... ummm....
Edited By Stevo on 12/09/2017 20:20:33
I've done a fair bit with PicAxes.. Surely once the protocol is cracked it's a matter of programming?
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