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Member postings for Lindsay Todd

Here is a list of all the postings Lindsay Todd has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Rusty Fergusson
24/06/2020 13:21:34

With the main sheeting done top and bottom a couple of little details such as hardwood block to fix the wing struts glued to rib and spar for secure fixing although largely cosmetic on this design


Trailing edge sections added to centre section and tips, stock 38x13mm commercial section used with a tad of sanding


1.5mm ply plate covers for the aileron servos, these have hardwood blocks glue to them on the inside to fix standard size Futaba 148 servos, arm exits through the slot and straight rods to the ailerons horns etc


To keep the wing underside flush to the fuselage soft sheet was cut and glued to the underside, same width as fuselage and sanded to match and drilled through for wing bolts


Wing tips complete the wing structure, i used an extra rib from 6mm balsa and a 3mm balsa profile section then scrap wedges top and bottom and sanded to shape


I chose to get stuck into the covering next. The wing, tail surfaces and open structure on the fuselage all done with the last of my clear solartex. the solid areas of the fuselage were all covered with 0.5 glass cloth and deluxe materials acrylic resin. The resin takes a few coats and sanding between to get to a reasonable finish for painting. So with plenty of white going spare thats what was applied to the glass finished areas. With that done it was time to start on the glazing so firts task to make a few thin card templates.


The sheet acetate 0.5mm was then glued with rc modelers glue and a number of small screws, i will mask off and paint later. I also gave the inside of the cockpit a coat of black.



Front hatch retaining straps are simply strips of 1mm abs and screw into hardwood blocks and of course time to create a few decals to add to the effect



Nearly done now. Linds

21/06/2020 13:46:29

Absolutely Kevin it certainly would be.

Ok so time to build in some washout, some people maybe thinking what is washout so a very quick interpretation is a twist built into the wing that raises the trailing edge at the tip of the wing. The effect is that the wing tips have a reduced angle of attack to the airflow at reduced speeds and nose up attitudes typically during landing and as such reduces risk of tip stall. it also has a spin of in reducing aerodynamic drag in normal flight. Anyway simple to do if you follow simple procedures in the build and starts with jacking up the trailing edge at the tip, in this case a piece of 12mm MDF does the job nicely plus a couple of supporting strips and a bit of weight to hold the wing down.


With that done the top sheeting can be added, leading edge, trailing edge center regions and cap strips to the top of the ribs. This combined with the sheeting on the underside that was partially done will make the wing stable and the washout will be fixed and built in


Complete the sheeting to the top both panels, i also added the wing dowels while the glue was drying



Thread: Lidl Auto Gyro Glider
20/06/2020 23:55:53

Well you have got to be pleased with that Stephen. Linds

Thread: Bristol Blenheim Mk1V
20/06/2020 23:53:03

Thanks Danny, it does feel like i am getting somewhere again

Thread: Rusty Fergusson
20/06/2020 23:51:19

Time to show the wing construction, all ribs from 3mm balsa, constant chord so all basically the same except for some cut outs for servo trays and center spar braces which require the ribs to be cut in half.


Other items are spruce 6mm square for the main spars, 3mm marine ply spar braces and aileron servo fixing strips, 1.5mm servo plates. so nothing unusual


I built the wing with the first panel carrying the spar braces but we start with siting the lower main spruce 6mm square spar, the rear 6mm hard balsa lower spar and then setting out the ribs, including ply strips for the aileron servo fixings. Spars are aligned on the center line joint.


I used the servo plates to ensure correct spacing so i get a nice neat fit later, simple tip that can remove a real pain later getting the plates to sit flush with the underside of the wing


Top spars now added together with main spar brace, rear spar brace and wing bolt plate. I added the rear section ribs to the centre section together with a couple of small triangular blocks for support. Trailing edge stock was also added which is just a strip of 6mm medium density balsa cut to size.


My bench is long enough to now prop the first panel up such that the spar brace second side can sit flush on the bench to account for the dihedral and the second panel can be made as per the first in-situ and joined to the spar braces as you go. If necessary it could be made separately and added after.


With the basic wing complete check the position of the center line and then fit the front dowel plate to the front of the spar which is in effect a further wing spar brace and also set the position for fixing the front outer riblets that run either side of the fuselage side when the wing locates so worth a quick check against the fuz to check positions and fit are ok


Front riblet now added together with the 6mm balsa leading edge strip to both sides


When dry the wing was flipped upside down and the trailing and front 1.5mm sheeting was added, note i want to keep the structure flexible at this point so the cap strips and tip and centre mid sheeting were left till later as we need to incorporate some washout into the wing which i will do next



Thread: Bristol Blenheim Mk1V
20/06/2020 23:20:36

finally got a chance to do a bit more on the new canopy, moulding now glued onto the ply frame and trimmed to fit, plastic strips taped over the form so i can mark the position of the frames on the inside of the moulding


Cut strips of self adhesive aluminium tape which was then applied over the moulding, first few sections shown, bit fiddly but goes on easy enough and will have rivets ect applied before being painted. Outer edges obviously still to be done so the timber frame edge will be hidden.




Thread: Rusty Fergusson
14/06/2020 18:44:51

Once sanded time to look at fit of fin and tailplane to the fuselage so decided to get these covered using heat shrink nylon. I then also located the elevator outer snake down the fuselage exiting at the rear slot in former F11 and added the 6mm F11 which will be rounded off.0050.jpg

Once happy that this was set square i glued the tail in place having removed some of the covering from the underside. I also extended the top balsa fairing with some more soft block


A quick test fit of the elevator to make sure all working fine. Also note the ply plate for the rear commercial tailwheel i had lying around, a world models item i think


Before fitting the fin and rudders i installed the elevator and rudder servos onto ply plates. The rudder is closed loop so sited centrally and the elevator offset to one side. also note the throttle snake sited. Std servos used both futaba, 30001 for rudder and 148 for elevator as no great loads expected.


Fin and rudder also covered and glued in place and horns fitted


cables run down the fuselage and exit through two abs tubes for guides, perhaps brass would have been better but i did not have any two hand and as the cables are nylon coated any wear should be minimal. I also covered the rear fuselage open lattice structure again with heat shrink nylon.


Back to the front of the model and time to create the air exit for the cowl into the underside of the fuselage. I planned for this with a slot cut into F1 but for some reason added a radii to the corners so first job was to mark out and trim material away from the underside and remove the radii from the former


Trimming done and 3mm balsa sheet added, this combined with a small cut away at the rear of the cowl should ensure adequate cooling for the engine



12/06/2020 08:27:17

The tank / battery hatch had a couple of ply rails added just to get a nice secure fit, will be retained by two straps with screws into ply plates.


With the fuz put to one side time to make the fin and tail plane components. These are simply 6mm balsa strips cut to width and length and glued together


Once dry the rudder was sanded to a taper profile leaving a thickness of about 2mm at the trailing edge and a chamfer on the leading edge, a 0.5mm ply plate will be glued each side for the horn fixing


The tail plane is very similar construction, made from 3mm medium density balsa strips with a simple solid sheet section for the elevator, leading edges rounded and taper as per rudder to the elevator again with ply plates either side for the horn fixing


The fin needs to have a location slot formed on the fuselage between F9 and F10, use some scrap 6mm and glue strips either side making sure the slot is centred and sguare


The fin can then be slotted into face and further balsa added to make up thickness such that it can be carved and sanded to match the rear fuselage line. This can be done prior to gluing the fin in place.


12/06/2020 00:04:22

Should have mention cockpit floor sheeted to top of upper logeron from 2mm balsa sheet and then the underside of the rear fuselage sheeted with 3mm balsa save for a rear ply plate to take a tailwheel assembly. all sanded and rounded off at the edges so time to start the canopy frames. These are made from 6mm square balsa , i used cocktail sticls glued through diagonally drilled holes to add a bit of strength to the joints, one for the front and one for the rear.


The rear frame is glued to the front face of the rear cockpit former F5 sitting on the fuselage sides


a 6mm semi circle is glued to the frame this having a cut out slot for the angled rear brace which is 6mm square spruce


A centre 6mm sheet is then added and then the front frame added to this to set the position, a further semi circle of 6mm to the front of this and a further 6mm square spruce brace at the front. The whole assembly then has a further 6mm sheet added to the top


further 6mm bracing is then added to the rear frame glued to the front face of F5 which really beefs up the structure. some further triangular infills around the bracing at the front and rear struts complete the basic frame work. the assembly is then sanded to match the angles so that the glazing will wrap around. will become clearer later.


Now for the brave bit, take a razor saw or hack saw and cut the cowl free from the fuselage flush to the front of F1, the lines made early are a huge help. When done i fitted the engine mount and my rather well used OF70 Surpass and set about making clearance holes and fixing ply plates to secure the cowl back in place.


lots of measuring and slowly carving and grinding produced a reasonable fit. i also added the lower air scoop simply from 3mm sheet



A couple of strips of 0.5 ply to the sides of the cowl stop screws from crushing the surface and as i had some laminating epoxy work to do i coated the cowl inside and out and the front face of former F1.


just to help things along i made up the u/c from 3mm aluminium sheet and a 4mm dia length of piano wire. the assemble screwed to the u/c ply plate with the aid of a saddle clamp for the wire. an old set of wide 21/2" wheels that have hung around for years complete the job.



Thread: Bristol Blenheim Mk1V
11/06/2020 13:03:53

Agreed Danny, the timber does look at least a good starting point, i think my holes are 6mm with 6 spacing approx and the box is from 18mm MDF with a few forms inside with large apertures to add strength and as Danny says stop the box getting crushed. I did think about suspending a baffle plate inside to minimise local high suction points but this does not seem to have been a problem.


Thread: Rusty Fergusson
11/06/2020 12:59:06

3mm sheeting added using centre brace as the joint line and overlapping the chamfer cut to the sides of the fuselage


With both sides done trim and sand together with the front hatch so all is level and then trim the cockpit area to shape using a template and sharp scalpel


before sheeting the rear top section i glued a series of strips onto the top longeron aligned with the formers as extra gluing contact area


3mm sheeting was then glued in place in two sections each side using the longerons as a centre joint from cockpit F5 former back to tail plane insert F9




Thread: Bristol Blenheim Mk1V
11/06/2020 10:32:33

Hi Danny, quite literally two people, myself and San, two paint heat guns and a further infrared heater, nightmare! you just have to take it steady and carefully, first sheet turned white so quickly through over temp in patches all over the place so you just have to be patient - not really a skill of mine that comes naturally.


11/06/2020 08:12:16

Hi Cymaz, the old frame was built into the structure and as this will effectively be a removable section now as i suspect batteries and ballast will need to go up front and the old frame would have needed just as much work to re configure so easier just to start over.


11/06/2020 00:46:05

Plaster (herculite) master pattern sat on my A3 size vacuum bed which is basically a sealed MDF box with hole to plug in my good old Henry vac. Don't ask how long it took to drill the holes.


The sheet is simply fixed with drawing pins and sealed with masking tape to a wooden frame, photo shows the final good part excess material, because it is quite a large form area you inevitably get a bit of waste.


Success after quite a few trials and fails, going down from 0.6 to 0.4mm material also made a big difference again down to getting the temperature stable over the entire area. about 120 degrees seemed to be the optimum.


New ply frame now going together to support the glazing, then it will have strips across the top surface so i am finally making progress again.



10/06/2020 13:25:49

Lets not get carried away here Danny, 6 sheets before I got a good one, three heat guns and an infrared heater trying to get the temp even, yes it can be done but it was a challenge. I even started looking around for old eye level gas burner grills to modify but they are like the proverbial rocking horse whats-it when you looking for them.


10/06/2020 13:25:43

Lets not get carried away here Danny, 6 sheets before I got a good one, three heat guns and an infrared heater trying to get the temp even, yes it can be done but it was a challenge. I even started looking around for old eye level gas burner grills to modify but they are like the proverbial rocking horse whats-it when you looking for them.


10/06/2020 13:13:20

Thought i would update the tale. the moulding of the canopy has been long and tedious one. I have ended up basically building my own vacuum forming table to accommodate A3 size sheets. I also made a glass mould and plaster cast of the canopy as i felt the foam may indeed suffer from the temperature given I need to get quite a large area covered. My bag of herculite must have been older than i though and had turned into a garden ornament that looked remarkably like the inside of a bag of herculite! More acquired and mould and cast made and a few choice words as various sheets of PET 0.5 turned white on me with going over temp before I have finally cracked it rather than cracking up and finally have a completed formed canopy to work with. I can now work back on the frames and mounting and moving forward again. Photos to follow. Linds

Thread: Rusty Fergusson
09/06/2020 08:22:33

The tank hatch or battery hatch sits behind F1 and is made from two sub formers with 6mm balsa side rails and bridging longeron across the top. The sides are slightly built up and then chamfered to match the profile of the formers.


3mm sheet is then added in two sections with joint along the centre line


Before sanding i also started to prepare the top fuselage cockpit area by adding 6mm square struts and chamfer to the fuselage sides from F2 back to the rear of the cockpit ready for sheeting. This way when i come to trim and sand the hatch and fuselage will all blend together.



08/06/2020 12:57:30

cheers Richard, feels like its been a while since i did a design although Terrysaur is still with the mag, anyway a bit more.

The underside is now sheeted, 6mm at the front so we can blend into the nose ring then 3mm behind back to the second uc plate which is glued onto the previous.


The second UC plate is 3mm shy each side, these are filled with scrap balsa simply to make rounding the edge of easier


Front end now sanded to shape on the underside. Note i have marked the position of the front face of F1 this is so i can cut on this line later to free the cowl from the fuz with a razor saw



08/06/2020 10:41:37

At the front the cowl area is built in-situ and starts by tack gluing a couple of plates to set the angles for the front faces of the cowl, these will be removed later


The front is made up of two 6mm balsa faces and a 3mm ply ring. the balsa faces need a chamfer carving both side such that the assembly sits square a bit fiddly but the photo makes much more sense


I did not have my engine available at this point so had to measure carefully but you could fit the engine prior if you wished. Once the side plates are dry then add the nose ring


The position of the ring can be set by a block across the top and then measure side to side, just make sure its square to avoid messing about later.


The top of the cowl is then sheated with laminates of 6mm soft balsa, carved and sanded to shape.



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