Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fieseler Storch|
Now that I have the basic fus. structure together I realised that those T nuts should in fact be fitted from the underside since the u/c must bolt on from the inside! Much debonder required.
Started to watch more of those videos and they are very informative indeed so far. Many possible pitfalls pointed out already and I am only on No. 6.
Got one of those Hatori tubes Don, but the cowl is so shallow that even with other elbows I doubt if it could be fitted.
Anyway, that is a long way off to worry about just yet.
God, he does stretch it out a bit. I notice that there is no comment on the wrong way up T nuts. Jumped from almost nothing to a nearly built fus.
Got my engine mount now and have worked out the thrust line details so all I have to do is build it!
No room in there for an internal silencer as far as I can see.
This could be a very long and tedious build.
Thanks Colin, I shall have a look tomorrow.
Just having a little look at this and trial fitting a few bits at the fus. front to see how well they fit while awaiting the engine mount. I put in the u/c T nuts then realised that these actually fit from underneath - the wrong way round so will probably need nuts and washers to prevent them from pulling out but can see no reason why I should not put the ply plate in the other way up.
The supplied i/c firewalls have a hole drilled and are centre marked for the right thrust offset. I shall need to work out just how far back the rear of the cowl should be. There is no indication of this in the pics. I can make balsa wedges to angle the firewall as required. Interesting that the electric version has no right thrust but mine certainly will.
Thanks for the support, particularly those links above which will come in very handy since I am much more used to building from plans.
The reasons that I am going down the i/c route are that I already have several WW2 electric models which are simply just not realistic in the air, and the fact that I have a suitable motor sitting around so nothing else to buy. Shame that the exhaust will have to poke out somewhere though.
I did not realise that there was already a thread on this model, so could a mod. please transfer mine over to the earlier one?
Whilst I really do not need any more models, I was quite attracted by the HK Storch when they sent an ad. for it. Described as a real builders` model and at a very reasonable price I hit that `buy` button. Plus points are that it has moveable slats and at 63" span would maybe take an OS 52S of which I have one left and doing nothing.
It arrived yesterday. They are not kidding when they say that it is for builders. The kit contains a myriad of bits. The standard of laser cutting is superb and the odd parts I have looked at can just be pushed from the sheets without lots of cutting. Just hope that they have this one right because after some duds I swore never to buy another kit, especially from them.
It is supplied with two blank firewalls in case you are daft enough to convert to i/c but they say that you will have to work out how by yourself. Fair enough.
It comes with a wing plan but only photos of the fus. construction which is a shame because whilst the electric motor box is adjustable for length to fit the fibreglass cowl, this will not be fitted for i/c. First thing for me is to get a SLEC mount before I can do anything.
Here is a small selection of the parts plus a couple of pics from the instructions.
Not sure quite when I shall start this but would be interested to hear from others on this.
|Thread: KST 125 and Savox on 6V|
The only servos I have come across in recent years which will not operate on 6V are JR 591`s. My older set-ups still use 5 cell NiMh ( a must on 2.4) but all new stuff uses 6.6V LiFe, single on small models and dual via a 5.9V Failover regulator switch on the rest.
Mainly Savox/Hitech/Corona servos.
|Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale|
Yours sounds more like correct Nick.
It would seem that I am not alone with the massive amount of down. Was beginning to doubt my own building skills.
|Thread: Solartex, any tips?|
Glad you got there in the end, I said it was quite easy.
The only paints I have needed on this stuff are Humbrol Matt Enamel and Smoothrite so cannot speak for any other types.
|Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale|
Thanks John B. Very helpful.
Thanks Richard, probably the same copy of the one which I used.
These pics show it I think.
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 09/08/2019 19:28:08
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 09/08/2019 19:29:11
The main reason that I should have thought more about the u/c and maybe cabane strut position before building is that with a fs motor there is nowhere for the original tank.
Whilst people are digging out their plans I would greatly appreciate it if someone would measure the incidence between, say, the tail and the top wing. I have heard that some versions of the plan show the wrong tail incidence, and guess which one I built. My elevator has to droop by some 20deg. but does not seem to affect the flying. Nothing I can do about it now but it would just be nice to know since with each side built from 1/4sq. spruce over the plan it would be difficult to get it wrong. Looked for my plan but it must have been chucked in the loft.
I expected a large cg shift with the heavier motor but it is only about 1 1/2" forward of the top wing centre TE and since the model still spins as before I shall leave it alone.
|Thread: Solartex, any tips?|
Assuming that you are covering a straightforward wing, cut the film to allow 2" extra all round except the centre where it should overlap onto the other wing half a little. Starting with the underside, with the iron set to cool tack it in place here in the middle, then pull to the tip exactly straight and tack to the centre of the tip. Now pull out to the LE and TE in each case and tack again. Tack to the LE and TE at the mid half span, always keeping it slightly taut, then go round the rest a bit at a time. If it looks wrong then apply the cool iron to the tacking points, pull off the film and start again using the same piece. Still with the iron set to cool (or maybe just a little hotter) iron down all round being sure to overlap to the top surface and trim down. The easiest thing to use here is a SLEC trimming tool @ about £1.50. Throw the Chinese blade away and fit a Wilkinson Sword one.
Lightly seal all round with the cool iron, turn it up to high and go over these parts which will then be permanently sealed down. You should find that it is now almost flat. Lightly run the hot iron over the complete surface without using any pressure then go over the whole thing to make the film adhere to the wood. It makes no difference if the structure is open or sheeted.
It would take me less time to do this than it took to type it out.
Repeat for the top surface.
Make that read Martins i.c. Tucano.
Tried a sock once but it just made the job harder to do. It would be difficult to scratch Solartex but may be possible with other films. Having a thermometer is fine as long as you know what the temperature should be. Different materials such as ply will require a longer application of the iron/higher temperature.
Foxfan, if you gently pull the material from end to end and side to side when tacking on with a cool iron you should not have any areas which could possibly crease since it will shrink by about 10%. Solartex is easily removed for repositioning with the application of a little heat at this stage.
See if you can find `Martin`s i/c Tucano` on here for a step by step covering guide.
I really cannot understand how anyone could have trouble applying Solartex. Just remove the backing, cut it to size and show it the model and it will almost jump up and cover the thing by itself! It is by far the easiest covering to put on in the world.
Seriously though, chuck that heat gun since it has no place whatsoever for any covering material. You will just over shrink it which will cause it to pull away from the joins, and more importantly, will not stick it to the complete wooden structure. This is very important to prevent it sagging in the sun.
I tried one of those covering irons once and gave it straight back to a mate. Useless in my opinion. I always use a cheapo travel iron such as a Steamworks. About a third of the price and after chopping off a few unwanted bits to keep them out of the way they are brilliant.
Tack the film on all round the edges at just above the No.1 setting then turn up to about No.3 and seal all round. Then lightly go over the rest, just hovering the iron. Finally press down all over to get it to stick to the complete structure.
|Thread: Best Dremel Clone|
Bought a battery Dremel while I was in the US in 1998 for $50. The Nicad still holds full capacity and it gets lots of use, permanently fitted with a 1/16th drill. Left discharged for ages and the pack left on the 3hr charger for three weeks many times.
No use for many jobs since it is quite slow but great for 2mm self tapper holes, drilling out horns ready to be tapped m2 etc.
Got a Skil from B&Q many years ago, 35,000 rpm. The brushes wore out so it got chucked under the bench. Amazingly you can still get the spares so it has a new lease of life.
Also have an Aldi battery one which has been very good so far.
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