Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Ohmen|
Trevor, I found that before I modified the rudder angle it pushed the tail up, especially noticeable if a lot of rudder was needed for a crosswind take off. Do not really wish to criticise the design because it looks and generally flies pretty good.
A bit off piste but I originally gained a B about forty years ago in order to enter competitions. After an enforced lay off I joined another club and they accepted that I had a B, but I had lost the certificate. The BMFA, as the SMAE now is, could find no record of me whatsoever, so on a day when a couple of B tests were being run I volunteered to do it again. It was windy and to the surprise of the examiners elected to use a very light OS 20 powered funfly. Worse than taking your driving test again.
I would have liked an OS26FS in mine but both the ones I have were already spoken for.
I would say that for a B test something like balsa Wot4 may be more suitable since you may have a problem with stall turns. The model also tends to bounce around a bit on a windy day.
|Thread: Aileron servo mounting|
In your case I would carefully remove the plug shells with a scalpel in order to thread the wires through. Just lift up the locking tabs, remembering that you need to do this twice for each wire since there are two plates which require sliding out. When refitting, push the tabs back in and test with a good pull. This only works if you do not have extentions of course.
For a fun fly I would say that the method used by Dennis is the easiest. Even many scale models, including my own, use this. The thin wing ones are made for ailerons but require mounting on a screw in plate. I`m afraid that you just have to work out the depth of the rails for a given model and build a box round them if needed. A good starting point is 1/4" balsa capped with 1/16" ply for them.
If you can find any of my build blogs or photo albums they show quite a lot, the most recent being the Fieseler Storch.
|Thread: TN Concorde|
I too saw it fly and was suitably impressed. On chatting to Tony he said that he was using the cheaper 600gm thrust units for about £20. I said that my TN Vulcan would not go from grass and he suggested the new fans which have double the thrust of the HK units which I am in the process of changing to 11 blades.
The cheaper ones are actually around £26 and branded Power-Fun so I bought four. I had already pinched the Vulcan esc`s for my Lanc. and then bought replacements. Unfortunately the Power-Fun units need at least a 40A esc, so more expense in the form of YEP ones at £20 each.
I already have quite a few of the MCA retracts spare and certainly do not need a cnc and wood pack so shall see if I can get just the plans and maybe vacforms. I had not realised that the Concorde kit had been released yet.
|Thread: A sticky glassing problem!|
I buy my resin from ABL Resin and Glass, Sandbach. You need the multi purpose type, not general purpose. Available in 1.5l. It should work out cheaper than model dealer stuff and is a proper professional product.
|Thread: Sharkface question|
I have a leccy powered one now with two alternative wings, one for rudder/elevator and the other with a slightly flattened out wing with ailerons. Don`t know the weight but they go like stink. I built the original when it was published. It used a Cox TD049 and a UK valve/transistor Rx minus its case and modified to be relayless thus allowing me to use a tiny 22.5V HT battery plus 1x and 2x AAAs so it must have been quite heavy by today`s standards! Sheer fun.
|Thread: 2019 Special Issue|
I normally look forward to the specials because there has been some very good stuff in the past. Nothing in this one to interest me but judging by some of the questions posed on this forum there are a lot of people out there who will benefit from it, although I disagree with some of the methods shown. There are many other things which could also be covered such as how to link up servos to surfaces without using those hideous screw on whatsits, how to hinge correctly, bend u/c`s etc.
In my opinion it is well worth repeating this sort of thing because a newbie will not have read earlier copies of the mag.
Keep up the good work; you cannot satisfy all of us all of the time.
|Thread: Fieseler Storch|
A bit more. Got the appendages fitted to one wing panel without actually gluing the pivot bolts. These needed careful adjustment to make them free without slop. I shall probably remake the horns because the supplied ones will most likely just fall off as in the Captain Rob video.
Also shaped the tail and elevator LE`s and got that lot covered.
Have now done a lot more work on this. If anyone thinks that it is a slot together then simply add c.a. then think again. Even at the stage it is at now I still seem to have a multitude of parts which must be to do with the u/c.
The fus. has been covered, including the wing stubs prior to fitting. 184 tiny screws holding the glazing in place seemed to take forever. The motor has been squeezed in but I had to cut the cowl in half. It does not look too clever at the moment but it will have to do.
As you can see above, the tail and elevators do not match up so I added a couple of bits of wood. I really should have binned everything at the tail end and re made from 1/4" balsa: at least I could then have given them some proper shape.
Trying to find and cut out the hinge slots in the wing Solartex was also a tedious job. The bits of ribs where the slat hinges go keep breaking so I shall probably remove them all and replace with 2mm spacers between the glued in parts of the hinges which should make final assembly easier too. Getting the 2mm hinge screws fitted with minimal play should be interesting. Will most likely paint them black and assemble with a smear of petroleum jelly.
I shall bash on.
Edited By Martin McIntosh on 29/09/2019 15:33:52
|Thread: Li`l Cub|
PM, where did you say you got the dummy engine from please and exactly which one?
|Thread: The Ohmen|
Very smart looking job there.
|Thread: Best Heating Option For Your Hobby Shed|
Mine has been used a bit lately to take off the initial chill and is performing well; just put the second lot of 5l of fuel in. Have left it set at 19 deg. and just let it go through the shut down cycle, I do not increase the temperature so I shall see what happens in the future.
The only drawback I can see is that I shall still need to run an oil filled heater overnight to prevent freezing since I have a lot of paints and other materials of high value in there. The small cost of heating far outweighs the above.
|Thread: Classic Aerobatic Model Photo Thread|
The fus. looks very much like a `Bulldog` by Kieth Jones. They were from grp, also the slightly larger Super Bulldog which actually used the wing cores from my `Reaction` design.
|Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions|
I have a few Lasers and YS`s, all of which run on the factory settings with just a few minor adjustments. Managed to buy a number of YS motors at half price because the guys did not know the start up procedure and started to fiddle with them. No way that one of these will start if the idle needle is screwed out more than 1 1/2 turns or the pressure not built up before applying the glow.
I did not need to touch anything on my latest Laser 180 but it will require minor adjustments after a few runs no doubt.
Occasionally you may need to tweak the top end to suit conditions on the day but I see a lot of dead motors at the field due to the carb. fiddlers; after all, you do not tune up your car or lawn mower every day, do you? If a motor was running fine the last time out then a problem must be due to a plug/fuel blockage or a leak.
|Thread: TN Hurricane|
My pack is 5s 5000mA/hr, (2s + 3s) so would not fit through F1.
I seem to recall that this simple build model only took about three weeks!
Without removing the sound unit I can`t remember the make but it is small and light. Only really effective on the ground at start up and shut down.
I originally tried mounting the pack flat as per plan but the cg was way too far back.
Here is the battery compartment. The gubbins other than the Rx amongst the spider`s nest of wiring is a sound unit.
The batteries are a very tight fit.
The canopy fits like this:
Looks like I omitted an album for this one because it has been done before. I used the TN one here because vac forming is a very hit and miss affair for me. You can easily make a Hurricane canopy in two parts if you make up a balsa plug. Form the rear by using a heat gun then the front as a separate piece and glue them together.
Just about to look at the wayward servo so will get a couple of pics later.
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