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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Chip Shop
18/01/2021 14:28:20

Thanks both. I omitted to say that the cg was measured without batteries but a pair of LiFes are very light. The only ones I have which are not already spoken for are 700`s and would prefer 1100`s but not been available for a long time.

Regarding the paint, it is all brushed on including the clear lacquer. I think I said above that the neat Rustins dried too quickly to brush on so I reverted to Sadolin on the fus. I then tried the Rustins thinned 2:1 resin/supplied thinners and this looked good on the wing so rubbed down the fus parts and put a coat on top but it still looks a little shinier than the wing.

I did not find a pic showing any of the underside until it was too late but I shall not lose much sleep over that.

Surprising how that dark earth on the cowl is quite different to the rest despite the pair of tinlets I used being well stirred; not the first time I have seen this with Humbrol.

Geoff, my Hawk was sprayed with water based Ferrari red (big mistake using that). The Sadolin was also sprayed but ended up with a rough surface in places because my spraygun would not apply it quickly enough.

Long ago when I used to spray the original Tufkote on my aerobatic competition models I found that cellulose thinners would act as a paint stripper on overpainted bits so I would immerse the neat mixture in boiling water to thin it which was great.

When I came back to the hobby I tried that with the later Super Tufkote which immediately set in the gun. Ouch!

Rustins Plastic Floor Coating in gloss used with the correct thinners would, I imagine, spray fine but if you decide on this then try a test piece first. The thinners, available separately, may well work with Sadolin PV67 also.

18/01/2021 12:11:28

At last got to the stage when I can do a test assembly. Still work to do connecting up the rud/ele servos, adding the Rx, making up the wiring and Rx controlled switch for the lights, fixing the canopy in place ( I shall screw this on for now because the only pilot I could get is not worthy of his seat) and sorting out the cg which is 1/2" rearwards, but anticipating this I already have some more weight strips on order.

Talking of weight, if my luggage scales are to be believed it is, at the moment, 12lb 2oz (5.7kg) which is well within what I was hoping for and the chosen motor should be able to cope OK. Fus 2.6kg, wing 3.1kg.

Spent all of yesterday just doing the dreaded hinges. I can get the throws indicated on the Seagull instructions for their 80" one with the exception of ailerons which may be marginal but could cut down the top shrouds if necessary.

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That needle valve would decide to protrude just at that awkward spot wouldn`t it?

I have omitted the cowl screws for the pics so it appears not to be in quite the right position.

Thread: Best Heating Option For Your Hobby Shed
16/01/2021 20:52:41

Hmm, two piece boiler suit or a cow gown down to your ankles. Cannot recall anything else.

Way off subject, but we used to use the blue asbestos fire stopping sacks to play football with.

16/01/2021 19:15:00

Don`t worry about float charging at 13.2V because a car battery normally has 13.8V applied when running. My heater uses between 0.45 and 0.9A once the glowplug has gone out, depending on whether it is pulsing the pump or not. A 12A/hr battery should suffice if an intelligent charger is left connected. I am lucky enough to have `obtained` an eighteen Amp variable supply and a power out would only stop the heater briefly; it will just restart anyway as it would if the fuel ran out and was refilled (turn back on).

MH, I too was involved with those 4ft cubed x26 TX, open topped lead acids which would make your nose and eyes curl when entering the battery room. Not much elf``n safety in those days.

Thread: Buyer Beware
12/01/2021 18:29:40

OS had to stop using chrome because Japanese law forbids stocking over a certain amount.

I still have a couple of 25FXs which used to get a lot of use and were regularly sent back to Ripmax for new liners, they even replaced the bearings for free and I got them back almost by return post with no charge at all. Anyone know if this service is still available because OS stated that because of the problem it would continue for the life of the rest of the engine?

Thread: Chip Shop
11/01/2021 19:54:27

Found twenty year old unopened tin of Solarlac flatting agent and found that this mixes OK with the much easier to use PV 67 so tried it on some test pieces. Fine at 5:1 but may need a little more.

Sneak preview of some decals done and in the midst of doing them. I had to cheat on the wing underside because I ran out of vinyl and masking to paint them on so they are just undersized vinyl from what I had left. I literally had to scrape the barrel for enough Humbrol white and Spektrum olive green to get this far: no chance of getting more at the moment with everyone either out of stock or wanting £10 postage for a 14ml tin.

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Thread: Flying with Spectacles
11/01/2021 14:57:41

I have dabbled with FPV and this gives me a problem because with Fat Shark V3s you cannot apparently get add on lenses for longsightedness. Have tried cutting down a lens from some pound store glasses to fit but I really need +0.5 and the weakest is 1.0.

10/01/2021 20:31:31

I started to need reading glasses occasionally from the age of about 49, not essential but I felt more comfortable with them and had to pay lots for some very weak ones, no Pound Stores around in those days.

I later needed distance ones too and tried bifocals but did not like them and went to Vision Express for some varifocals. Big mistake going there, I could only read one word at a time on a newspaper held as low as I could get it. They fiddled around bending the frames with a hairdryer but to no avail and eventually admitted that the frames I chose were not suitable for that type of lens so I got a different sort. Talk about a bunch of amateurs, I should have gone to Specsavers.

These were costing me £500 every two years so after much thought went to Ultralase in Harley St. They went through the various options with me and because I said that stereo long distance was a must have I went for this at a cost of £4000. All was not well however. At one of the interviews I was told that I would have the best of both worlds for about two weeks until my eyes had stabilised, close up and distance. I came out of the surgery as though as though looking through fog which is normal then after 10mins. the doctor came in and thrust a piece of paper in front of me expecting me to be able to read it. All I could see was a grey splurge but he said that it was fine because it meant that they had got the laser prescription spot on. Really?

On the train home a few hours later the fog disappeared and I could see anything further than 4ft away perfectly.

I later discovered that my dominant left eye was out of focus but they could do nothing until six months had elapsed by which time they said that my eyes were close enough not to warrant further treatment. This varies from day to day but I still cannot focus on a model properly.

Please do not let the above deter you from having this treatment because it is probably the best thing I have ever spent four grand on. If I now sit back a couple of feet I can read this.

Thread: Chip Shop
09/01/2021 20:01:44

crookDoes not exactly convey my feelings because I found that I had started to do a fus roundel in completely the wrong size. I used my compass cutter on masking film and this time used the scale on it instead of measuring the radii with a ruler. I did not realise that the scale does not start at zero for some reason, so everything turned out at 15mm larger than intended. Stripped off the mask and started again but had already infilled the white and red bits with white, so too large now and will need to do some touching up later.

I have started to do the control surfaces with the Rustin`s varnish as above but this dries so quickly that even on these small parts it is a problem; it even starts to set very quickly on the brush. Adding a little of the supplied thinners helps. With hindsight I should have bought Sadolin PV67 in satin instead and may well try a test piece with the gloss version I have mixed with talcum powder, not tried by me before.

Thread: NGH 38 review Feb. 2021
08/01/2021 21:01:33

I am wondering if there is a difference of some sort between the JE and HK ones. It would be interesting to hear where users got theirs from.

I must admit that the motor still attracts me if only I could get a good one.

Thread: Chip Shop
08/01/2021 20:55:26

Having a go at the fairings and am attempting to use a thick walled carbon tube to simulate the oleos. I drilled out the centre and like a fool instead of splitting it tried cutting with my Proxxon. New blade now on order. The balsa halves have been made ready to fit and shall probably fix the whole things to the legs with silicone. A little litho round the `oleos` will not go amiss.

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Since my chosen motor requires 20% nitro, fuel proofing is an issue, so following a recommendation on here I shall be using Rustins satin floor varnish which should be similar to the Sadolin gloss I have used in the past.

Just trying a bit on the ailerons and wing servo covers. It needs to be applied even faster than Tufkote so the large parts should be interesting to do. Spraying is out of the question in this weather.

I have also made a start on the roundels and fin flashes.Try getting round masking film on a very much curved fus. surface, more like an oval but I expect that you would need to be picky at the end of the day.

Thread: NGH 38 review Feb. 2021
08/01/2021 16:41:54

Glad to hear that you got a good one. Shame about my example because it would have been ideal for the intended model which is rather over powered with a noisy 50cc two stroke. They have been on the market for quite a while now and there is little to choose from for a petrol four stroke in that size/price range.

08/01/2021 15:25:44

Surprised to see that this has been reviewed again. I bought one on the strength of the original glowing report by Brian Winch. JE and HK were offering them at vastly differing prices but the HK one had no silencer, and this is what I bought, assuming that the motors were otherwise identical.

Beautiful to look at but the worst rubbish I have ever had in terms of motors. Compression was zero to start with but even on a 16x6 prop it would only reach 6000 rpm. After 1 1/2 tanks it was stripped to reveal a piston crown resembling the lunar surface and the camshaft had worn away and started to break up.

Took this up with HK and got an instant refund which suggests that mine was not the only one to suffer these faults.


Buyer beware.

Thread: Best Heating Option For Your Hobby Shed
08/01/2021 14:38:33

You probably got a 5kW heater with instructions for a 2kW. I managed to decipher them eventually but look up the model No. on line.

Thread: Chip Shop
07/01/2021 10:39:07

I remember only too well what happened to my Chorus Gull when, on a fast landing, the torsion bars allowed the legs to bend right back pushing the spats straight through the wing underside. Reducing the length of the bars from 6" to 3" cured it. My 1:4 `Mew Gull` is built with 6g legs and short bars so I have used the same wire on this 1:5 Chippy. Yet to make the fairings but doubt if I shall cut the wing skin to clear them, I shall simply make them shorter.

Thread: What is the most useless thing you have bought
06/01/2021 20:19:51

+++ for the SLEC balsa stripper, useless and just takes up space. Proxon table saw is fantastic.

--- for a Permagrit cut off wheel. Far too coarse for our use and I wore it out on one job.

What was wrong with the Elmic Conquest? Skipped occasionally but there was not much else then.

Orange Rxs. I have loads and have never had a problem, I even use them in some of my 12 month scale builds (9ch ones), but I use JR, not Spektrum which they do not like.

Thread: Coverings
06/01/2021 20:03:56

I recently got some pinked rib tapes which now have to be from Oratex, much coarser than Solartex and no wonder that the price had to go up. For glossy stuff HK film every time for me now. Cheap and very easy to use. Iron temp. as for any polyester, and I have had none fade so far. The only downside is that you virtually cannot apply paint over it as you could with the old Solarfilm.

Thread: Chip Shop
06/01/2021 19:43:36

Thanks SW, very similar to mine. I don`t think that things will bend very much now -

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06/01/2021 18:38:51

Thanks Danny, I am not using oleos, just the simple torsion bars shown on the plan because of the difficulty in getting stuff at the moment. I shall fit the reinforcing bars because they will give peace of mind and are at least in front of the cg.

06/01/2021 18:21:28

Just removed the masking tape from everything and it looks OK. I gave up on the Khaki scheme because the paint in the tins did not even resemble the colour on the caps but luckily had two new 14ml tins of dark earth Humbrol enamel. I almost felt like Jesus with the two loaves and five fishes to feed the multitude when I had to eke them out but got there in the end. The green is Spektrum olive drab.

I could not find a full size scheme which really matched what I have built because they were missing the anti spin strips, had anti stall strips, rather different paint patterns or I could not get enough pics overall. One I picked was D-EFOM but later discovered that the underside is yellow, too late so this will just be a generic version with VT-CVT-X on it.

Lots of work still to go making seats and the vinyl masks for the lettering and decals. The bit I am not really looking forward to is glueing in the rudder/elevator hinges and joiner since this could be hit and miss and I only get one go at getting it right.

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