Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Cannot remember what you are going to power yours with but my Laser 80 is pretty beefy which is why I put the servos in the rear. Fingers crossed.
Looks fine. Not a problem on this model but when I am using my normal closed loop on rudder I raise the servo a bit so that the wires go above the elevator one. Helps in tight spaces.
My cowl has been a problem to align. Thought I had it right but not so and by the time I had sanded bits off the rear end the motor was sticking out more than intended so I cut a disc of 6mm lite ply and glued this to it; also removed quite a lot of material to save a bit of weight up front. Rather than add filler to the imperfections I have tissue covered it. Lots of sanding but it is now perfect. The spats seem fine without doing this.
I intend to paint these parts with matt white Humbrol enamel as a base but am a bit low on it so may use Halfrauds white primer which I already know from experience does not go too well with the water based Ferrari Red but I think that I can get round this. I really need this wind to drop so that I can spray outside.
I have not yet dared to assemble it all again to check on the cg so shall wait until it is completed.
|Thread: Silencer Gaskets|
You are quite correct. It is/was used on car alternator windings which can get very hot.
I use stuff called Kapton Tape which is similar to Sellotape to look at. Clean up one surface until oil free, stick on the tape then cut out the centre. This is almost totally heat proof, the only little snag being that it is super expensive. Luckily I happened to `acquire` a few rolls.
|Thread: How Many Wing Ribs|
Years ago I scaled up a design by a well known scale modeller and used 1/16th for the ribs. He advised me that in the future to use light 1/8th instead. These are no heavier than using harder 1/16th, do not split when cutting and give twice the gluing area. Done it ever since where appropriate. As above, sheeted wing up to 75mm, open structure 50mm with 1/4" cap strips. I always fit a 1/8th false LE, sheet the wing then a very soft LE afterwards.
Don`t forget to fit light 1/16th shear webbing between the mainspars before removing from the building board if you want a straight wing.
A fair bit more done now, although most of the time was spent on installing servos, making extension leads and getting those through the holes in the ribs. Today I have fitted and soldered up the u/c and spats which can still be removed for painting. No need for any bracing here because it is as solid as a rock. I thought that the cowl fitted OK but it was not so and have added some 6mm lite ply to the rear, much of which can be dremelled away later. Rx, switch, batteries and all wiring done.
Sorry about the out of focus shots.
|Thread: Spektrum Receiver Plugs and Sockets|
Spektrum, JR, Corona and Hitech plus many other servos all come with a chamfered plug, you must be using some strange ones. Even with the chamfer JR and many some Spektrum Rx`s such as the 9000 are a very tight fit.
The HK plug kits are exactly the same as supplied on the above servos, as are the female ones from CPC.
|Thread: Valdez Stol Record breaker build blog|
Sorry to hear about your continued problems. Mine is powered by a SC30 FS which is about right, but with all the motor weight up front the cg is 55mm from the wing LE, and that is without fuel. It also has a fair bit of right thrust, about 2 deg.
Aileron travel is: low rate up, 12mm. High, 14. Low down, 10, high 12.5. This is how I originally set it up.
The wing has very little dihedral so should respond to ailerons reasonably well but this is not always the case. You could try mixing in about 30% rudder. A Lancaster for instance cannot be flown on aileron only, you just get adverse yaw and it will not turn. I have done a couple of o/d Cub lookalikes in the past which responded (or not) in a similar manner.
On the maiden of mine it swung left and I nearly broke the stick willing it to straighten up but it did. That was on low rate. I now know the nature of the beast and can fly it with confidence. It was flown at the Buckminster Fly In last year in a crosswind.
I would say that some right thrust would help you. I only have a 10x6 prop. so on leccy you may well be using a larger one which would give more left torque effect.
|Thread: Does anyone remember...|
I read recently that the Super Merlin was just a production example which happened to start easier so was tarted up a bit and renamed. How mine ever got up those trees I do not know because I could flick them all day without even a pop.
1st FF was a Veron Cardinal with a blinking DC Bantam, another non starter. It came with white tissue which I attached with flour and water paste but I wanted it red so just slapped on some coloured dope. The instructions made no mention of the fact that clear dope shrinks it. Flew once, straight into Longmoor pool.
Yes, it was a G45 bought from JDM for cost price because he wanted to promote them. At the price, a few people had several of them. Terry Cooper of Prestige and TK regulator fame converted it to 5ch so that I could use retracts. I flew with it at a pylon meeting using an `Ole Tiger purchased from the above dodgy Keith Jones but it flew off by itself until I regained control and to the utter amazement of the marshals I rejoined the race! The things you do in the heat of the moment. Faulty battery connector. Very good set in its day but I lost count of the number of stick units I wore out.
Prestige V1 next which I used for most of my competitive career. Unreliable Kraft servos but OK if stripped and serviced regularly. By that I mean cleaning the pot. and taking the motor apart to clean the com. every few weeks. Can you just imagine that being the case today? I am still using servos over 20 years old now.
Hi Solly, the UK was great and all the ones I knew of worked which was more than could be said of the Terrytone etc. You could also add a reedbank to make it multi. Mine got much modified with a transistor to replace the relay and another, NPN one to simulate the `back` contact for quick blip throttle. This made the HT drain very low and by removing the case, using 2xAAA for the escapement, 1xAAA for the LT and a miniature 22.5V for the HT squeezed one into a Cox TD 010 model. It never got flown because while I was flying something else a thief snapped off the nose and stole the engine. I worked as a newspaper boy through the winter of 1962-3 to buy that. £4/19/6 was a lot of money then.
The Tinytone was another successful Rx. Being fascinated by getting things as small and light as possible I sourced some smaller components, drew my own PCB with Humbrol enamel and got one down to a postage stamp size or less.
Mal, you are spot on there. I have seen the Barton which he took up to Fradley one day. I heard of his solo TT win on the radio. The Barton still holds the highest top speed through the trap as far as I am aware.
On his 16th birthday he rolled up outside our house on his restored BSA 1000 V Twin with an orange box for a chair. Wanna come for a ride on me bike Mac he said? Off we went with me terrified sitting next to those pre war cylinders firing once every two telegraph poles. He had of course never been on the road before.
Those were the days. I would cycle or later motorcycle or drive up there every evening. On s/c I would have been flying The Charger from the R/C Handbook using an OBM Miniservo and probably the UK Rx. Later I got a s/h RCS reed set which at least could be rebuilt when I wiped the components from the Rx board. Flew it in a Graupner Caravelle which I was given, powered by a Merco 49 twin plug; brilliant model. In 1969 I p/xed it for a Stavely Analogue development set, the less said about that the better but I taught myself to fly propo with it in an OS 30 or 40 powered model scaled up to 54" from a drawing of Dennis T`s Bambi powered original which he called a Frog Zephyr. Mine was grey and his red. His Twin Fin had an AM 25 and his party piece was to do loads of loops and rolls on the way down when it ran out of juice.
I then joined the SC club at Fradley and got interested in F3A and pylon racing using a Ying Tong Space Commander set which was digital and worked well until one of the lousy servo plugs failed which was frequent.
Cannot remember too many other names from then but there was Reg, Tom, Bill, Frank, Horace and Bob Freer, oh, and mad flyer Mick Watson who killed himself in a 3/4 size Mustang when the elevator linkage failed.
Ah, Model Mecca, that was the name.
I do not know about Nigel Mansell flying there because the name does not ring a bell at that time, but I used to fly there with my best mate Nigel Rollason who later worked for Lucas in Shirley so there may be some confusion with the names.
We re met a few years ago when I invited him to my local club scale day, then we met up again at the Nats which we were intending to do again last year but I heard from our newsletter editor via Facebook that he passed away while model flying at Smeatharpe in Devon.
NM`s brother worked for BT at the time I did. He was an Executive Engineer but turned up looking a bit like a hippie instead of in a suit and tie.
There are at least three of my FF models in those park woods, probably Wenmac or DC Merlin powered and good riddance to the latter. An o/d 049 powered model with a home made Rx once flew off an ended up in Hartopp Rd. of all places, poshest place around. I had visions of it having hit a Rolls but it made a perfect landing in some huge garden. The Araldite holding down the Rx coil had given way!
Dennis Thumpston, former scale champion and RCM&E scale columnist was a regular flyer at the park and we became good friends. He even flew his Nationals winning 1 1/2 Strutter there, powered by the only glow motor he ever possessed. He gave me many golden tips on model construction.
Hi Mal, I probably started with free flight in the park around 1958-9 and sort of inherited an ED Boomerang Tx etc. Much bigger than any biscuit tin I have seen, ground spike and 8` 6" ex tank aerial. Never did get everything to work at the same time. My next one I actually did build into a biscuit tin, massive 120V HT battery in a gas mask bag slung over my shoulder and connected with a wire. Try a hand launch with that lot, but it was `tone` and worked with the RCM&E UK Rx which I also built.
The model shop in Witton Road got visited every Saturday where I could drool over an electric blue OS reed set but could only afford an F&M Midas all transistor Rx.
I have a couple of alloy nuts from large electric motors but when I tried one on my Stampe it just unscrewed the moment I touched it with the starter, so no good. They can also bottom out inside the starter cone. The spinner shown was picked at random because it fitted over the prop and I shall probably file out a much smaller one.
|Thread: Does anyone remember...|
Flightline Models was owned by the late Keith Jones who lived near to me in Sutton Coldfield, a shady dealer if ever I knew one. I wanted a K&B 40 Pylon motor and he offered a good deal on one if I bought it from him. Charged me full price to the last penny and did not even throw in the prop. I used to buy my fuel from him but he once substituted nitro benzene for the nitro methane and I ended up in hospital when a little of this got in my eye.
He was the `K` part of the TK fuel pressure regulator and flew F3A with a large halo factor, being the designer of the Bulldog which bore more than a passing resemblance to the Clipper.
He also tried to take over the SCRCAC site for himself, changing the gate padlocks so that nobody else could use the field.
Bob C, I remember Apple models and bought a MM Lark heli kit from them I think.
Here we go. As you see it with nothing inside it is 90.6oz. The spinner is there just to see how one may look. With the two servos placed in the rear the cg is about 1" forward so with the u/c it will be even further and I suspect that tail end weight will be needed.
I have been busy too. Covering all done although the fus looks a little bare. I shall do a mock up of the assembled model, less u/c, when I have all the control surfaces on and post a couple of pics if this wind does not blow the whole thing next door. Still lots to do.
|Thread: 62 inch WS RCME plan Spitfire|
My TN Hurri. uses 3s + 2s 5000`s no problem. Not even the same brands. Much cheaper to replace when one of them dies.
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