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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: The Ohmen
15/02/2019 19:29:20

Why would anyone want cnc parts for such a simple model? Mine took no time at all with just the plan to go by.

Thread: How long have you been in the hobby?
15/02/2019 09:45:19

Tesco`s hard surface cleaner diluted 5:1. Same as Flash but usually cheaper.

Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!
14/02/2019 21:17:24

Got most of the Fus. and tail riveting done today. This time I decided to try some aliphatic from The Balsa Cabin instead of the usual PVA. This stuff dries very flat instead of a blob, but before doing any more I got impatient and tried painting over a small area to see the result. Looks fine to me, they should be quite subtle. The other pics really just show the pencil lines as the rivets are invisible without paint.

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13/02/2019 20:04:15

Another little snippet. I have cut and fitted the dummy cowl fixings using my Silhouette Portrait vinyl cutter. Not tried this before so hope that they stay stuck on and will take paint. Coated with thin clear dope.

Somewhere on this forum somebody told me how to get lettering using the Silhouette to exactly the right size without guesswork, but blowed if I can remember how to do it now. I shall need this info for the lettering and roundels.

spitfire 72.jpg

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
13/02/2019 16:04:10

Hi all, did you manage to complete the application form on line because mine will not accept text?

Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!
11/02/2019 10:19:09

This is how I am fitting the flap hinges, also a pic of my original ones. The fus. is now much more advanced.

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11/02/2019 09:06:58

Look at the Ohmen thread P6 for a link.

11/02/2019 08:59:48

Ivan,

I had to fill in the gaps between the rear spars with 1/4" balsa. It only needs to be crudely fitted. You must be a very long way off this stage as yet.

ASH,

In this case it was mostly done with sharpened up pieces of alloy or brass tube twiddled through the liteply, but I then received a set of diamond tipped cutters (10 off) from AliExpress for just over £4 posted. Brilliant for the thicker parts but you must use a pillar drill. Found these via another forum thread.

10/02/2019 18:23:33

Hi Ivan, I shall try to show some pics of the flap hinges when I snap some more. They are not easy to align and you need something like Klett thin ones to do the job. Do not try c.a. ones because the large deflection will cause them to break.

I deviated from the plan and my original model version by trying to laminate them from balsa and ply. They have warped and turned out much heavier.

Thread: UK supplier of balsa in METRIC thicknesses?
10/02/2019 18:10:38

As far as I know all wood, whatever type it may be, is cut to imperial sizes in the UK because that is what the machines are set to. Timber generally comes in imperial lengths etc so if you want 2m from an eight foot plank then you pay for the eight feet. An 8x4 ft sheet is still 8x4 whatever the nearest metric equivalent may be.

When I built my modelling shed some years ago I wrongly assumed that everything must by then have been metric. Put the hardboard battens at 1m only to discover that white faced board was still 6x2.

Can be frustrating when building a model from a plan because the CAD drawing is invariably in metric now but the balsa is not. It can often make a very big difference.

Thread: Don't just stand there, get one up!
06/02/2019 21:07:36

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06/02/2019 21:03:11

Right, here we go again.

Lots of progress made with the whole thing now glass coated.

A change of tack here from the peel ply method. I decided to try a mini roller but only used it to mop up any excess resin and even out the coat.

A sanding down to a Matt finish with 80 grit then two coats of dope mixed with Johnson`s Baby Powder. This was easily flatted with 320 grit, then a coat of 20% dope and 80% thinners so that the masking tape will not pull up the base coat. Now one coat of thinned grey primer also flatted ready for the rivets. When they are done I shall give it another coat of thinned dope prior to painting.

Looking at the `Spitfire Bible` it would appear that the canopy I have is actually for a Mk 1A.

The cowl blisters are proving quite difficult to bend but with lots of ammonia I am nearly there.

Instead of a top hatch for the switch I have put it behind the drivers` door. Could hinge this with Solartex but any ideas on how to latch it? Could use magnets,

Looking at my earlier version I can see nothing of the lovingly made dash so have not bothered on this one.

Pics to follow.

06/02/2019 20:42:47

Very frustrating on this site. I just did a long progress update then it told me that I needed to logon, which I obviously must have been. Will try again.

Thread: Fresh petrol in a lawnmower every season?
06/02/2019 19:44:53

I have used at least eight year old petrol in model engines with no problem although a mechanic once told me that it only has a shelf life of six weeks. Difficult stuff to chuck away and my current car is diesel anyway.

Thread: Film covering to repair "alumium" Mustang wing
06/02/2019 19:35:46

Get a roll of HK film sold as silver but is actually more like aluminium. A 5m one is quite heavy so must be ally.

Here is my Ohmen done with it.ohmen 006.jpg

Thread: Scroll Saw Wanted
06/02/2019 19:28:36

Thanks for that David. You should get many years` use from it.

Thread: A simple problem
02/02/2019 19:27:04

power panel 001.jpg

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This has been published on here previously by me and is as easy to make as you can get. The plug voltage will be as measured with or without a plug connected. R `x` can be zero Ohms if you wish because the minimum output voltage is an ideal 1.2V, or you could add a couple or so Ohms if you wish it to be higher. Pump and starter included on the panel. Use a separate 1S Lipo for the glow to reduce heat in the regulator to a minimum.

Thread: OS 25 FSR- Equivalent
30/01/2019 14:24:39

Way off thread now, but when I restarted the hobby in 1998 after an enforced lay off due to business needs I started to get a few things together like a computer radio, hairy aerobat kit and a motor which the model press was raving about. Yeah, you guessed it, an MDS 48.

The throttle would stick at full because the barrel slot had been milled out into the shape of a letter P. A needle file sorted it. I could get the motor to run very well using 10% nitro and a medium heat plug. It had a very slow and reliable idle which astounded my new clubmates. Gave it away in the end but the new owner could not even get it to start.

Thread: BMFA News Feb 2019
28/01/2019 09:50:43

I think my local patch is about 100yds long. Imagine a model which has just become airborne. After another 100ft it will still look quite large; then imagine it at the same distance upwards (400ft). Still very low. Any F3A model would certainly struggle to loop within that height, never mind perform vertically downwards maneouvres.

Oh, and why do they insist on mixing metres and feet? Because the rule was devised by full size aviators.

27/01/2019 21:25:59

Thanks, I know that now but nobody seemed to at the workshop.

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