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Member postings for Martin McIntosh

Here is a list of all the postings Martin McIntosh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Martins i/c Mustang
06/01/2014 17:14:24

martins ic mustang 116.jpg

06/01/2014 16:49:17

I just posted a load of pics here but 12 of them have not appeared. will try again.

06/01/2014 16:45:34

martins ic mustang 115.jpg

martins ic mustang 128.jpg

Thread: Ever wanted to get into or improve your aerobatics?
05/01/2014 23:39:58

Sorry to disagree here but if your model yaws one way or the other depending on the throttle setting then you should look again at the amount of right thrust. I have done just the odd one or two bunts over the years and never experienced this phenomenon! Correctly set up models do not yaw when throttled back during a vertical climb which can effectively be part of a loop.

Also, I know that a lot has been written about spiralling prop. wash causing yaw but I cannot go along with that. It is the torque effect coupled with gyroscopic reaction which causes a roll and a bit of yaw to the left. Push a gyro away from you and it will respond at 90deg. to the force which is why right thrust works for us.

Try a small model with a very large prop. and it will roll violently left compared to the small amount experienced with a normal prop. size, without a large thrust line offset, even though the spiralling airflow must be similar.

Well, you did say feel free to comment Peter!

Anyway, keep up the good work since most of this tutorial will be of benefit to a lot of people.

03/01/2014 20:05:54

I could do a knife edge spin with a Peter Miller Cap 21 as long as I used a light (Lipo) pack so this must also be very cg dependent.

Neither of these were in any way twitchy in normal flight.

03/01/2014 19:56:15

The nearest I ever got to this was with a Panic bipe. Don`t ask me how though. It never would fly in a straight line anyway.

An interesting manoeuvre I used to do with a rather small and overpowered Dalotel was a vertically downward flat spin. This was initiated by a vertical climb, throttle back, full right rudder then full left rudder with full power applied. It would do 2 1/2 turns every time but would sometimes go into a spin at the bottom. I now have a larger version of the model with the same motor and prop but cannot repeat this. Could be the prop. weight which I had never considered or a more forward cg.

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
02/01/2014 18:45:46

Thanks, I shall check those dimensions and probably get the CC one.

02/01/2014 17:02:55

If I could just chip in here, I understand that the rule of thumb is that the cooling outlet should be three times that of the intake, so enlarging the latter would have a negative effect. This has worked for me in the past although I have never fitted baffles.

I have recently bought the new long stroke Laser 155 (18x8 prop) for mine when I get round to it, and speaking to John at Laser he says that baffles are essential on this model.

Could someone please remind me where to get the full grp cowl to fit the Precedent kit model as I would require this before I start the build.

Martin Mc

Thread: Martins i/c Mustang
31/12/2013 15:53:08

I know that you are correct there Jeff but just try doing it. This is stand off scale and the observer must at least be able to see them. Indenting using tubes is just not possible on a glass skin. It is intended to be a practical flying model, not a museum piece! I am getting more into scale but my primary interest is still aerobatics.

Thank you for your comment (my next scale build is a Stampe SV4B).

Martin

31/12/2013 10:33:46

Hi BEB, these are my versions of the one by TN published in the mag. They were on one of my earlier blogs but could not find them.

Notice that the ends are ground slightly conical and that the wires need to be fitted with a slight curvature so that the glue blobs can be rolled on. I use Titebond aliphatic with a little water added. You need to experiment with the mix. Regular cleaning of excessive resin on the tips is required.

The whole model was `riveted` with these in just a few hours.

31/12/2013 10:24:26

martins ic mustang 114.jpgmartins ic mustang 113.jpgmartins ic mustang 112.jpgRiveters for cheats like me:

martins ic mustang 111.jpg

30/12/2013 21:41:38

A little while since I reported in but you cannot hurry a paint job. It is now all in base coat and the control surfaces have been fuel proofed. I had Aerokote to hand and whilst this went on easily with no brush strokes showing it does not like the Smoothrite very much and hardening is impaired. However, after a few days and three coats it is fine and resists fuel when tested.

Just adding the canopy after finishing the limited cockpit detail and awaiting a reply from Tim re the decals so that these can be in place before the rest is proofed.

The tailwheel unit and doors have been fitted and seem to function OK. Main inners bolted on ready for the servo installation.

A few pics to wet your whistle.

martins ic mustang 104.jpgmartins ic mustang 106.jpgmartins ic mustang 107.jpgmartins ic mustang 108.jpgmartins ic mustang 109.jpgmartins ic mustang 110.jpgmartins ic mustang 105.jpg

Thread: Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale
28/12/2013 23:20:04

Well done mate. Top job and now more than worth the effort.

Thread: Ever wanted to get into or improve your aerobatics?
23/12/2013 22:45:56

May I be the first to congratulate you!

Martin Mc

Thread: Ellipse
23/12/2013 21:24:00

Hi Martin, thank you very much for joining in. A picture is worth a thousand words as they say and things are now very much clearer.

Having already cut the ribs they are as per plan with under camber. The plan does not show the aileron LE (unlike the wing TE) but I have devised a pair. The way I have cut them means sheeting after shaping but should not present a problem. I am just in the process of cutting the aileron TE sheets to shape and shall use these as a jig to align the ribs on the LE.

I shall be using a 35/48 1100kv motor on 4s and 6kg DMG MI servos @ 26gm each.

It looks to me that you are either very good at cutting intricate parts or that a lot of this was laser cut. I shall be using GRP for the hinges etc. since I find this easier to work with than small bits of lite ply.

Martin Mc

22/12/2013 21:01:22

All went in backwards but never mind!

I did not really intend to start a blog on this but rather hoped that someone was going to do one as I am still up to my ears with the Mustang. I decided to slot this in over Christmas while waiting for coats of paint to dry.

Anyway, in reverse order, I spot glued the TE on then added the top spar which was pre bent by wetting and steaming with a heat gun. This prevents strain on the TE. I pre made the spar box and slotted this on as the ribs were added, using 1/4 sq. in the centre to maintain the slot width.

I then cut and fitted the top rear sheeting. It would be silly to do this without first filing the slots for the carbon strip, would it not!

It was then removed and the lower spar and sheeting added. The sheets were, of course, tapered before fitting.

I hope that I can shape the aileron to that curved surface. This will be made next.

22/12/2013 20:43:54

img_0598.jpgimg_0595.jpgimg_0594.jpgimg_0593.jpgThe site is back up but has reverted to its usual trick of not allowing me to insert text after pics. So here are the pics first:

img_0592.jpg

22/12/2013 19:42:13

Thanks Mike. I shall try the picture download again soon. It said `please try later` after I uploaded the few I have,

Martin Mc.

22/12/2013 19:17:31

Tried to reply but it got lost. I think that the site is being updated as I cannot post pics here at the moment.

22/12/2013 10:56:06

Having a bash at this while waiting for the paint to dry on my Mustang. It is quirky enough to catch my attention.

Obviously this is a tricky build but have come up against a couple of obstacles so far.

The text states that the ailerons have a flat bottom but the ribs shown on the plan have pronounced undercamber with some reflex at the tip.

The fairing ribs attached to the fus. sides do not show whether the sheeting goes over the top or is recessed below the top of the fus. This may become clearer when I get that far.

Anyone else out there looking at or building this model yet?

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